View Full Version : Recommended Engine Oil
Mamba24
02-16-2010, 02:53 PM
My oil service date is approaching and I just wanted to here from you guys, what brand and type of engine oil you recommend. I've heard Lubro Moly is good but I want to here from your experiences. Suggestions please.
prash
02-16-2010, 03:02 PM
like kobe much?
PorscheH6
02-16-2010, 03:14 PM
I'm a huge fan of Mobil 1 0W-40 for M60s.
Been using Royal Purple for about three years. 100% SYNTHETIC with Molybdenum. Longer change intervals.
bubba966
02-16-2010, 05:18 PM
Love the performance of Amsoil's 0w30 in my M-Sport. Not so fond of the Mobil 1 stuff. Delo 5w40 synthetic is ok, but not on the level with the Amsoil.
Mamba24
02-16-2010, 06:02 PM
Well.....thanks for the replys. Just wanted to let you guys know I got a '94 540i with an engine in good shape. Just looked up Royal Purple and its a little expensive. However I'll pay whatever it takes for my baby! Anymore suggestions?
I would use Amsoil if I ever decided to change and I use RP mainly because its readily available and Amsoil I need to find a Distributor and deal with them.Usually thats an individual who may often be unavailable to supply me.. I also consume about a Qt every 4,000 or so and if I want to keep the same oil in I can grab Royal Purple off the shelf. 100% full synth makes the most sense to me.. blended hydro-cracked while adequate (i know it sounds like a slam but good enough is good enough) requires more frequent changes . I drive on the order of 1,000 miles a week.. I can swap the Filter at the time I'd be changing the oil if I used dyno oil while with the synth I can do another 3,000 with the fresh filter.. Ultimately a used oil analysis will tell you what your oil is doing for your engine,right? I'll hopefully remember to order the Kit before my next one..
E39esp
02-16-2010, 06:42 PM
I use RedLine Oil. RedLine can also safely be changed every 10,000-15,000 miles. I personally go every 10,000-12,000 miles, which happens to be over a years worth of driving for me. It lubricates very well and you can tell because my engine brake is almost non existent.
Recently checked my valves and everything is squeaky clean with no signs of sludge.
I use RedLine Oil. RedLine can also safely be changed every 10,000-15,000 miles. I personally go every 10,000-12,000 miles, which happens to be over a years worth of driving for me. It lubricates very well and you can tell because my engine brake is almost non existent.
Recently checked my valves and everything is squeaky clean with no signs of sludge.
Which RedLine product do you use? I looked into it and thought the only 100% synth was recoo'ed for Racing or some such thing . I forget but I went with LubraMoly as I was at BavAuto at the time..
E39esp
02-16-2010, 07:41 PM
Which RedLine product do you use? I looked into it and thought the only 100% synth was recoo'ed for Racing or some such thing . I forget but I went with LubraMoly as I was at BavAuto at the time..
I use the 10w40 motor oil, and the tranny and diff fluids. It's 100% synthetic, but can be used for everyday use.
nsr13196
02-16-2010, 08:08 PM
I would use Amsoil if I ever decided to change and I use RP mainly because its readily available and Amsoil I need to find a Distributor and deal with them.Usually thats an individual who may often be unavailable to supply me.. I also consume about a Qt every 4,000 or so and if I want to keep the same oil in I can grab Royal Purple off the shelf. 100% full synth makes the most sense to me.. blended hydro-cracked while adequate (i know it sounds like a slam but good enough is good enough) requires more frequent changes . I drive on the order of 1,000 miles a week.. I can swap the Filter at the time I'd be changing the oil if I used dyno oil while with the synth I can do another 3,000 with the fresh filter.. Ultimately a used oil analysis will tell you what your oil is doing for your engine,right? I'll hopefully remember to order the Kit before my next one..
Hello My name is Nick and I am The supporting sponsor for this site I am an Amsoil dealer. If you use alot of the products you should become a preferred customer and get huge discount from Amsoil use this link.
https://www.amsoil.com/AmsoilLogin/PreferredApp.aspx?zo=1809229
Hello My name is Nick and I am The supporting sponsor for this site I am an Amsoil dealer. If you use alot of the products you should become a preferred customer and get huge discount from Amsoil use this link.
https://www.amsoil.com/AmsoilLogin/PreferredApp.aspx?zo=1809229
Interesting.. sounds like a plan. Thanks for the information.. If I go for it do you have some reference ID for you if you benefit by referrals?
nsr13196
02-16-2010, 08:28 PM
Interesting.. sounds like a plan. Thanks for the information.. If I go for it do you have some reference ID for you if you benefit by referrals?
The link has my zo# but in case it is zo#1809229
IT Jedi
02-16-2010, 08:40 PM
There have been a lot of oil threads. What I've gotten from them is 50 weight is probably heavier than needed. 0 weight will cycle fastest to protect you at startup.
0w40 or 5w40 LubroMoly, Mobil1 or RedLine are all good choices for all year use. I order LubroMoly and a filter from BavAuto.
There are some other exotic choices that I'm interested in hear about like the 0w50 from Eneos. Such a huge range multi-grade that I've read seems thinner than it's 50 label should be. If it could be proven to last 5k miles like the other 0w40 syns.... :)
skylinergtr
02-16-2010, 08:54 PM
i use lubro moly 5w-40 synthetic in my m60. I do my intervals every 6k miles. My car does not leak or burn anything within those miles. My car runs awesome. Everytime i've pulled the valve cover or oil pan im amazed how clean it is. I think this oil is awesome!
DarinS
02-16-2010, 09:41 PM
Not to threadjack, but..
I've got an oil question too, but on my m50NV. The Bentley recommends (for my temperate climate) at least a 10w-40 and preferably a 20w-50. That seems awfully heavy for the m50 motor. I ran Mobil 1 15w-50 in all of my E30s with the m20, but should it really be the same in the m50? I worked at a dealer for some time and we always used the BMW synthetic 5w-30. Any input?
skylinergtr
02-16-2010, 10:18 PM
Not to threadjack, but..
I've got an oil question too, but on my m50NV. The Bentley recommends (for my temperate climate) at least a 10w-40 and preferably a 20w-50. That seems awfully heavy for the m50 motor. I ran Mobil 1 15w-50 in all of my E30s with the m20, but should it really be the same in the m50? I worked at a dealer for some time and we always used the BMW synthetic 5w-30. Any input?
i think either conventional 15w-40 or synthetic 5w-40 should be ideal for your m50. The m50 is more of a modern day engine. A m54 runs 5w-30 synthetic i think a m50 with some milage should do just dandy with 5w-40 synthetic.
cornflakecwl
02-16-2010, 10:19 PM
I'm anxious to see more responses, I've read soo many conflicting threads/pages about M50TU and the oil to be used. My last oil change with it being winter here I used synthetic 0w20 and I've got a little valve noise. I'm thinking I may go 0w40 this time as that seems to be in the middle.
Jungerishere
02-16-2010, 10:26 PM
I've been using Mobil 1 0w40 for spring, summer, and fall and switch to 0w30 during winters since I purchased my E34 525i with 60k miles. She's at 158k miles now and the engine still runs, pulls, and sounds like the day I purchased her. M50 is a solid engine... :)
I'm anxious to see more responses, I've read soo many conflicting threads/pages about M50TU and the oil to be used. My last oil change with it being winter here I used synthetic 0w20 and I've got a little valve noise. I'm thinking I may go 0w40 this time as that seems to be in the middle.
Bloodhound50
02-16-2010, 10:32 PM
RP fun fact: you can fill your crank case with 50% water 50% RP and it will still lubricate and wont emulsify.
cdnalpina
02-16-2010, 11:04 PM
I use Castrol TWS 10W60 in the Biturbo and Castrol Syntec in either 5W40 or 5W50 in everything else. We are a little colder up here so need the lighter weight in the winter. I find it performs nicely year round, is full synthetic and can be had cheap.
Grim Reaper
02-16-2010, 11:40 PM
I run Castrol 10-60 in the 3.8 M5 and my dad runs same in his 95 540/6. I've run Castrol 20-50 GTX in everything else (including all lawn and power tools) I've owned since college.
My E46 325 had a little lifter tick when I bought it with 130k miles on it. Completely silent and much cleaner now after running 20-50 GTX on 3k intervals for the past 30k miles. Yeah, it goes against the grain but with over 25 years experience running Castrol, its always produced strong results.
T444E
02-17-2010, 12:06 AM
I'm a huge fan of Mobil 1 0W-40 for M60s.
That seems really thin.
The manual recommends something like 15w50.
I have 8 quarts of Mobil 1 15W-50 waiting go in; should I return it and get something else?
mikemxbike4
02-17-2010, 12:17 AM
I've been using Mobil1, Valvoline and Castrol(all full synthetic). They all worked good. But my engine seemed just a tad quieter on Valvoline.
On and YES, 0w-40 is fine.
Grim Reaper
02-17-2010, 12:18 AM
That seems really thin.
The manual recommends something like 15w50.
I have 8 quarts of Mobil 1 15W-50 waiting go in; should I return it and get something else?
Nope. M1 is really good oil so stick with the 15-50.
I have a good friend who swears by the stuff and runs it in his 540/6. No lifter tick. I would say the 0W-whatever stuff is too thin IMO.
PorscheH6
02-17-2010, 12:26 AM
That seems really thin.
The manual recommends something like 15w50.
I have 8 quarts of Mobil 1 15W-50 waiting go in; should I return it and get something else?
I don't claim to be an expert but I think 15W-50 is crazy for an M60. I don't even run an oil that thick in my S38. The M60 is a much more modern engine with tighter clearances. 0W-40 worked wonders for me and does for many others without issue.
Skatingzooyork
02-17-2010, 12:55 AM
That seems really thin.
The manual recommends something like 15w50.
I have 8 quarts of Mobil 1 15W-50 waiting go in; should I return it and get something else?
I think a 15-50 is a little heavy in winter but perfect for summer. I have 15-50 in my car right now, and at startup this winter there is a slight noticable difference. I will be switching it our asap for a 5-40 either Mobil 1 or possibly Amsoil since I never heard of the preferred seller option and that makes it worth ordering online!
renegadeforce
02-17-2010, 03:38 AM
so what would be a good oil for a m50 in the coming months of spring and summer? What about winter, in ny?
T444E
02-17-2010, 09:10 AM
Is Mobil 1 actually real synthetic or is that hydrocracked stuff?
Skatingzooyork
02-17-2010, 04:46 PM
Is Mobil 1 actually real synthetic or is that hydrocracked stuff?
It's real! I've always used Mobil 1 but Amsoil is definitely better still...
bubba966
02-17-2010, 07:02 PM
Is Mobil 1 actually real synthetic or is that hydrocracked stuff?
It used to be real, don't think it has been for the last few years though. They made a name for themselves with real full synth, then cheapened it up to make more $.
Mobil 1 in whatever weights I've tried in whatever cars I've tried has always been a bit noisy. Same weight has been noisier than dino juice. Can't say I like an oil that's noisy.
Things run much quieter on Amsoil. The noise difference between Mobil 1 5-30 and Amsoil 0w30 in my M60 is astounding. No noise from the Amsoil. Much noise from the M1.
If you feel that 0W30 is too thin for your M60 then you can go fo the 5w40 Euro Formula Amsoil. That's nice stuff too. Especially if you don't want to pay the premium the 0w30 Amsoil commands. But damn, is that 0w30 nice.
FWIW I'm not an Amsoil rep or own any stock in the company. Just have been very pleased with their products in every engine I've tried it in. Have used their 0w30, 5w40 Euro, 20w50, and I think their 10w30 as well.
mikemxbike4
02-17-2010, 07:28 PM
Yeah, Amsoil is very, very high quality stuff.
Jungerishere
02-17-2010, 08:42 PM
Huh? Correct me if wrong... Doesn't the number front of W means flow weight when cold or some call it "W"inter weight? And the number after the W is actual weight when the engine is warm? So I don't see how "0W" can ever be too thin.
I would say the 0W-whatever stuff is too thin IMO.
nsr13196
02-17-2010, 08:51 PM
It used to be real, don't think it has been for the last few years though. They made a name for themselves with real full synth, then cheapened it up to make more $.
Mobil 1 in whatever weights I've tried in whatever cars I've tried has always been a bit noisy. Same weight has been noisier than dino juice. Can't say I like an oil that's noisy.
Things run much quieter on Amsoil. The noise difference between Mobil 1 5-30 and Amsoil 0w30 in my M60 is astounding. No noise from the Amsoil. Much noise from the M1.
If you feel that 0W30 is too thin for your M60 then you can go fo the 5w40 Euro Formula Amsoil. That's nice stuff too. Especially if you don't want to pay the premium the 0w30 Amsoil commands. But damn, is that 0w30 nice.
FWIW I'm not an Amsoil rep or own any stock in the company. Just have been very pleased with their products in every engine I've tried it in. Have used their 0w30, 5w40 Euro, 20w50, and I think their 10w30 as well.
Yes he does not work for me :blueball
But thank for the good words about the products.:)
mikemxbike4
02-17-2010, 08:52 PM
Huh? Correct me if wrong... Doesn't the number front of W means flow weight when cold or some call it "W"inter weight? And the number after the W is actual weight when the engine is warm? So I don't see how "0W" can ever be too thin.
100% correct. 0w is the relative thickness when cold.
pennpen
04-28-2010, 04:17 AM
so what would be a good oil for a m50 in the coming months of spring and summer? What about winter, in ny?
anyone?
ive got 5w30 right now, but seeing as in the coming weeks its gonna be getting to 70-100 in the NE just want some input since im gonna grab some oil tomorrow
Huh? Correct me if wrong... Doesn't the number front of W means flow weight when cold or some call it "W"inter weight? And the number after the W is actual weight when the engine is warm? So I don't see how "0W" can ever be too thin.
100% correct
take 10w50 for example which is what i use for my 309k km m30 engine,
the 10 weight is how thick the oil is when its at at 40 degrees centigrade, the units for real measurement of oil is in cSt, so 10 is around 125cSt, basically you want the this number to be as low as possible to lubricate parts better.
the 50 weight is how thick the oil is when its at at 100 degrees centigrade (operating temp), this is around 19cSt. See how thin the oil is at operating temp. This thickness of oil doesn't really matter in any climate temperature because pretty much every engine runs at about 100 degrees centigrade whens its fully warmed up.
apparently a modern day brand new engine is designed to use oil that is 10cSt at operating temp. hope you other people understand oil a bit better now.
uk525td
04-28-2010, 05:11 AM
hmm to add, read up on recommendations on the m50
basically it says use ACEA A3 standard and ive seen weights including 0w-30, 0w-40 and 5w-40 advertised for the m50
bearing in mind im running 222000 miles but use absolutely 0 oil in the 2000 miles ive owned hte car, would it still be recommended to go for hte thinner 0w-30 fully synthetic? i have no idea what hte PO put in it but its still got a nice gold colour to it at least
jhughes
04-28-2010, 07:25 AM
Switched to Valvoline Syn Blend 20W50 on the M50TU. I think it's WAY too thick. Ample lifter noise at startup for the first 2 minutes or so and the engine spins down noticeably quicker when cold, enough to throw timing off for my shifts, which is really annoying. Going back to a 30 or 40wt next time.
Luftpost
04-28-2010, 07:35 AM
I am running M1 0w-30 in my M50. Now I have a valve cover oil leak that I cannot get rid of. Bought it at the time because that was all that was available at Wally World. Will pick up something different (thicker) today and see how it goes.
Lesson learned......:nono
uk525td
04-28-2010, 07:37 AM
how many miles luftpost?
how did you find hte oil apart from the leak?
Luftpost
04-28-2010, 08:07 AM
how did you find hte oil apart from the leak?
?
210,000 Miles
uk525td
04-28-2010, 08:11 AM
i mena how do you find it at that milage? not unusually noisy or anything? did it consume oil? (mind you hard to tell with a leaky cover gasket)
Luftpost
04-28-2010, 08:17 AM
No, not noisy.
Slow oil leak along the passenger side of the Valve Cover, at the gasket, down onto the exhaust manifold. The smell of continuous burning oil is nauseating.
znmiller
04-28-2010, 08:20 AM
I am running M1 0w-30 in my M50. Now I have a valve cover oil leak that I cannot get rid of. Bought it at the time because that was all that was available at Wally World. Will pick up something different (thicker) today and see how it goes.
Lesson learned......:nono
You should not run a thicker oil to solve leak problems. You're just trading that leak for increased engine wear.
I think xW-50 is way too thick. Didn't BMW issue an technical bulletin recommendeding -40 instead of -50 oil? I ran xW-40 for a while there. I just switched to 0W-30 and I've been very pleased with it.
Hodge
04-28-2010, 08:37 AM
Dang...I run Castrol 20w-50 in all three of my cars....
DOC540I
04-28-2010, 10:14 AM
just bout some AMSOIL 10w30 for my M60. Im am looking foreword to trying it out. Any thoughts?
jhughes
04-28-2010, 11:07 AM
I am running M1 0w-30 in my M50. Now I have a valve cover oil leak that I cannot get rid of. Bought it at the time because that was all that was available at Wally World. Will pick up something different (thicker) today and see how it goes.
Lesson learned......:nono
How about changing the VC gasket? :stickoutt
AquilaBMW
04-28-2010, 11:37 AM
Hello My name is Nick and I am The supporting sponsor for this site I am an Amsoil dealer. If you use alot of the products you should become a preferred customer and get huge discount from Amsoil use this link.
https://www.amsoil.com/AmsoilLogin/PreferredApp.aspx?zo=1809229
Hi Nick - I am using your response to post my questions:
1/. Sorry to bother you with this Nick, any ideas how / where to get Amsoil in San Francisco, CA?
2/. Has anyone ever been able to tell their workshop NOT to change the oil but do everything else like plugs, belts, etc.?
3/. How do I go from current oil to Synthetic or new brand? Just keep changing it frequently till the engine is completely converted? Or is there an actual process for this?
Thanks!
DOC540I
04-28-2010, 11:40 AM
yes, i would like to know the proper process of switching to synthetic as well...nick, i just bout some your amsoil 10w-30
nsr13196
04-28-2010, 02:14 PM
Love the performance of Amsoil's 0w30 in my M-Sport. Not so fond of the Mobil 1 stuff. Delo 5w40 synthetic is ok, but not on the level with the Amsoil.
yes yes so true
auto da fe
04-28-2010, 07:34 PM
Synthetic and dino oils are perfectly compatible. There is no "process for converting." Just change oil as you normally would. Mobil 1 10w/40 High Mileage is an excellent compromise oil. I use it in both my M30s.
AquilaBMW
05-24-2010, 02:06 PM
Back again...
I am looking at getting Elf 5w30 or 5w40. I know Elf as a brand from Europe - I think French to be exact. Anyone else use this before? The car is not driven that often and will usually be doing long trips in temperate to hot weather (So.Cal)
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