HIDs installed....and I'm not happy.

[flitcher]

Just installed my 55w slim 5000k DDMs for low lights. Installation was fairly easy. We had trouble on driver side with the brake booster allowing almost no room for hand movement.

Now here are my gripes...

Light output is horrible. I mean absolutely bad. I do not notice ANY improvement in distance. The cutoff is uneven with the driver side pointing lower. Right and left cutoff is also scattered.

My headlights have an oxidation of some sort that create a circle in the middle of the glass housing. This was more prominent with the halogen lights. I think this could be causing some of my issues. Will taking the housing out and cleaning the inside work? To be honest, were not even sure if it's oxidation. It creates an "angel eye" look sort of speak. :(

5000k 55w is way to blue. I was originally going to get 4300k, but I read people here saying there is not a noticeable difference...bull. If the white road lines are blueish from my lights, then 5000k is definitely noticeably different from 4300k. If you want OEM looking HID, get 4300k! My second thought is perhaps the slim ballast they gave was 35w. I did not look before I installed. Third guess is they gave 6000k bulb. Either way, my 5000k 55w is blue. Looks definitely 6000k. :mad

Fogs are 3000k 35w. We couldn't install them today because I had to leave. However, they are not plug and play? The male connector from the car does not fit into the female connector of the HID ballast? We need to splice the wires. Does this sound correct? I haven't read anyone else saying they need to splice.:help

Sorry if I sound bitchy, but I basically had my hopes busted. I thought I'd see a huge improvement, but instead I see nothing gained? I believe my main problem is the "oxidation" and need to adjust bulbs higher? Second problem is if I have 35w slims instead of 55w ordered and if bulbs are wrong.

[FieroZ34]

The cutoff is uneven with the driver side pointing lower. Right and left cutoff is also scattered.
This is how they are supposed to be...

[russiankid]

55watt ballasts are big and do not have anything written on them other than DDM. As for 5000k being blue, I have 5000k 55watt and when it is side by side to my moms 07' Acura, it is dead on OEM. For your light output, sounds like you have projector issues not bulb issues.

[nismoracer65789]

What kind of hid kit did you get so that 55w 5000k is blue???

My 35w 5000k is pure white

[Skatingzooyork]

For your light output, sounds like you have projector issues not bulb issues.

Yeah that...

[dansgt]

you have something wrong, i have 55 watt 6000k and its not blue...you may need to adjust your lights as well...

[FieroZ34]

Judging by the moronic statement about the light level, I'm thinking they are more blue than his factory lights, and he is pissed about it. Get over it, that's how HIDs are.

[flitcher]

What about the circle on the glass housing? The middle part of the housing is definitely blocking light.

How do I fix my projectors?

The light color when looking at the headlights is white. However, when you look at the road, it's blueish. The best way to explain is the white road lines are slightly blue. There is more blue color to them than white on the road.

[FieroZ34]

The light color when looking at the headlights is white. However, when you look at the road, it's blueish. The best way to explain is the white road lines are slightly blue. There is more blue color to them than white on the road.
Jesus Christ dude. Really, get out of the ghetto, and take a ride in a $15,000 Acura. That's how HIDs are. Just like the uneven line. And the "chargeup" time.

[T444E]

Judging by the moronic statement about the light level, I'm thinking they are more blue than his factory lights, and he is pissed about it. Get over it, that's how HIDs are.

Every time I See your sig it makes me want a Fiero GT.

[e34Croak]

My 8000k 55watt kit makes the street signs and white road line paint look like pure white cocaine from the driver's seat. However, from an outside view the headlights have a blue tint to them. Someone correct me if i'm wrong but isn't 6000k-8000k (give or take) the best light output temperature? The "closest to daylight"?

[flitcher]

Jesus Christ dude. Really, get out of the ghetto, and take a ride in a $15,000 Acura. That's how HIDs are. Just like the uneven line. And the "chargeup" time.

Sorry bro. I live in NYC. Last I checked it's not a ghetto. I already apologized in advanced for my bitching. I'm just trying to look for advice on how to get a better light output. Sorry to offend your standard.

[upallnight]

Just installed my 55w slim 5000k DDMs for low lights. Installation was fairly easy. We had trouble on driver side with the brake booster allowing almost no room for hand movement.

Now here are my gripes...

Light output is horrible. I mean absolutely bad. I do not notice ANY improvement in distance. The cutoff is uneven with the driver side pointing lower. Right and left cutoff is also scattered.

My headlights have an oxidation of some sort that create a circle in the middle of the glass housing. This was more prominent with the halogen lights. I think this could be causing some of my issues. Will taking the housing out and cleaning the inside work? To be honest, were not even sure if it's oxidation. It creates an "angel eye" look sort of speak. :(

5000k 55w is way to blue. I was originally going to get 4300k, but I read people here saying there is not a noticeable difference...bull. If the white road lines are blueish from my lights, then 5000k is definitely noticeably different from 4300k. If you want OEM looking HID, get 4300k! My second thought is perhaps the slim ballast they gave was 35w. I did not look before I installed. Third guess is they gave 6000k bulb. Either way, my 5000k 55w is blue. Looks definitely 6000k. :mad

Fogs are 3000k 35w. We couldn't install them today because I had to leave. However, they are not plug and play? The male connector from the car does not fit into the female connector of the HID ballast? We need to splice the wires. Does this sound correct? I haven't read anyone else saying they need to splice.:help

Sorry if I sound bitchy, but I basically had my hopes busted. I thought I'd see a huge improvement, but instead I see nothing gained? I believe my main problem is the "oxidation" and need to adjust bulbs higher? Second problem is if I have 35w slims instead of 55w ordered and if bulbs are wrong.


What do you expect from CHINESE made crap?

[russiankid]

The middle part is where the light comes out. Here is a picture of my mom's Acura.

http://i37.photobucket.com/albums/e58/russian03rustler/S6301413.jpg

[flitcher]

The middle part is where the light comes out. Here is a picture of my mom's Acura.

http://i37.photobucket.com/albums/e58/russian03rustler/S6301413.jpg


Thanks. I believe my lights are definitely pointing downward and need to be adjusted up. The light output is maybe only 20 feet out in front of me, that's it.

[dansgt]

if they point down that happens, thats how mine are because when i put the projectors on they were too low and i've been too lazy to fix it lol.

[flitcher]

My projectors are stock. Do I need to take the bumper off to re-aim or can I do it from within the engine bay?

[BavarianFanatic]

My projectors are stock. Do I need to take the bumper off to re-aim or can I do it from within the engine bay?

You need shims between the strut bearings and the strut towers. 1/2" usually works well for starters.

[dansgt]

you can do it from the front, theres a small hole in the grille for the adjuster, i just dont have a screwdriver skinny enough to re aim mine through the grille, so i havent haha.

[AHenry014]

theres two adjusters through the front grill, and the long ass dude that always breaks from under the hood

[strad]

You need shims between the strut bearings and the strut towers. 1/2" usually works well for starters.

:lol

I guess that'd be one way to go about it. srsly, headlights are adjusted through the grill. There are holes in it for this purpose.

[rtowle]

Lights should be centered just about 18-22 inches when ten feet from the wall.
High beams should be just about 24-27 inches centered at ten feet.

Both beams need to be aiming AWAY from oncoming traffic.

Rich

[5senses]

In my opinion the best way to resolve this issue is to start over!......... do your homework cause its simple.. my hid's make me happy.

[CleanE34]

idk man. i got 6000k and they weren't the slightest blue, even from DDM. same with the other 8 kits i've ordered from them. even with the other companies on ebay. all white. 4300k-6000k are pure white. as for your uneven cutoff, i think it has something to do with the lights, most likely one side is knocked outta alignment. i'm in NY, so if you need help, PM me and i'll be more than glad to lend a hand.

[Sherman]

The projectors look like they have a dark spot when you look at their reflection, that's just how they are. You might want to double check that the bulbs are seated correctly. Beyond that, they just need re-aiming. Mine were low from my suspension adjustments, and a re-aim made them great.
The fogs are a bit more difficult than the lows. I wanted to use the stock pigtails and connection, so I drilled out the back of the housing and used the rubber grommet included. It seals pretty well, just be careful to keep the hole small enough. I also soldered the input leads to the housing to use the stock pigtails. I didn't take any picks, but the directions are pretty clear.
Good luck.
BTW, I have 4300 and 3500. The 4300 are very white, and the 3500 are very yellow! They actually fire bright green and warm up to a bright lemon yellow, which is perfect for fogs.

[bam240sx]

well mine are pretty blue too for my 55w slim ballast 6k you can ask jbond even. but as for light out put its still a CRAPPP ton better then stock, hell you could piss farther then stock low beams.

4300k is the brightest HID for everyone's info

[stoney85]

anything over 4300k (which is pure white on the lumens scale) will be bluer and lose light output, its proven that 4300k provides the brightest/clearest light

I'm not sure about you, but when i fitted my HID's (to euro smilies BTW) i did some minor rewiring, to make sure all was neat and sealed (yet still easily reversible) and also adjusted my lights properly, so as not to be blinding oncoming drivers, but still point in the right direction

Remember you just bought chinese made things that are CHEAP, its not a Philips brand where there is a high quality control, and also you are fitting them to headlights not designed for HID light output, the light dispersion from a HID bulb is much different to a normal filament bulb, hence why it is illegal to fit HID's aftermarket

[M Quick]

anything over 4300k (which is pure white on the lumens scale) will be bluer and lose light output, its proven that 4300k provides the brightest/clearest light

I'm not sure about you, but when i fitted my HID's (to euro smilies BTW) i did some minor rewiring, to make sure all was neat and sealed (yet still easily reversible) and also adjusted my lights properly, so as not to be blinding oncoming drivers, but still point in the right direction

Remember you just bought chinese made things that are CHEAP, its not a Philips brand where there is a high quality control, and also you are fitting them to headlights not designed for HID light output, the light dispersion from a HID bulb is much different to a normal filament bulb, hence why it is illegal to fit HID's aftermarket

You know the e32 came with HID's from factory as an option(exact same headlights as the e34 uses)? They used the projector headlights, so they are made to work with HID's. Though i don't know if the US projector headlights are about the same as the euro ones which i know for sure came with HID's from factory.


There are also "cheap chinese (for about 50bucks)" kit's out there that are pure philips made ballasts and bulbs.

Why it's illegal to fit HID's are not because of the headlight itself usualy, it's because you need aiming control on the headlights that always makes sure that the headlights are vertically aimed, and you also need to have washers installed in order to make it legal and OEM.

[renegadeforce]

yo mike hit me up when you help him since im looking to get some hids soon

[flitcher]

Thanks everyone. I think my first attempt will be to reaim the lights thru the grille.

Next weekend (next time I can go to friends garage) we'll check out the ballast. I have a feeling my 55w slim may be a 35w slim, which would explain the low output I see and the blue hue from 5000k.

We'll then also finish the fog lights. Wasn't expecting a need to splice connectors, but it seems the ballasts female end does not fit into cars male end.

Pics are kinda tough because the streets here are lite up everywhere. I'll try to get some from a secluded area if I can find one.

[Russellc]

Sorry bro. I live in NYC. Last I checked it's not a ghetto. I already apologized in advanced for my bitching. I'm just trying to look for advice on how to get a better light output. Sorry to offend your standard.

I suspect part of your issue is alignment. If too low-no distance. If too high- light will shine into the trees and blind other drivers. Do other people flash you? That would indicate your lights are too high.

BTW, the HID liights with projector lens, like the 95 e34s, should have a sharp cutoff.

I have the same 55w bulbs at 4300k and the lights look white to me.

[flitcher]

I went outside looking for the screw but could not find anything in the grill. I found a screw near the high beams, but I don't believe this to be it.

I've included a picture where I saw it. I looked in the center grill but could not find. It is 23 degrees out so I couldn't stay long outside to continue.

[M Quick]

I went outside looking for the screw but could not find anything in the grill. I found a screw near the high beams, but I don't believe this to be it.

I've included a picture where I saw it. I looked in the center grill but could not find. It is 23 degrees out so I couldn't stay long outside to continue.

Where you've put the red ring is not for the low beam.

I'm pretty sure you missed the little small hole that you got down between the low and high beams. I can actually see that little hole in your picture. So look closely. There is your adjustment from the outside.

23 degrees? that's nothing dude. I changed a clutch in on an e39 when it was 0 to -20 degrees out ;) Though, many call me crazy doing these kind of jobs in these cold weather..

[flitcher]

Gotcha. I see it now. I don't have a screw that small. Will have to wait till next weekend. I'll post with picture updates of pattern and light color.

[RVAE34]

Sheesh. There are holes in the plastic grills around the headlights. These adjust your up/down, left/right.

As far as output goes. aftermarket HID's in stock housings suck ass. Sure they look good from oncoming but I want good light from behind the wheel. And I quickly learned if you want white/blue lighting then you don't want good visibilty.

I bought 35W slimline digital upgrade for my car. Hated it.... I then tried making custom cutoff shields. Which was better but still not great. I finally decided Fit... And went with TSX projectors. I utilized the prolumen 35W digital ballast kit with Philips D2s 85122+ bulbs in stock TSX housings. I wrote up a thread on the swap but am too drunk and lazy to find it. Look through my past posts.

I can assure you that you will not be happy with HID's unless you A. go with 4300K (not 5k or 6k) and B. go with a factory HID housing and do the retrofits. Which is easier than you would think

[Sherman]

Great writup on the TSX converson btw! I thought I'd try the HID conversion in the stock projectors first - 4300 lows/3500 fogs. I couldn't give a crap what it looks like from outside the car, and the improvement in visibility driving is actually quite remarkable! I'm very happy. The picks you have of the TSX conversion take it to a whole new level, I'll admit, but the stock housing swap is no slouch.

[IT Jedi]

4500k 55w is PLENTY bright. No one has flashed me and I don't have to keep my fogs on to see well. I can see street signs glowing for as far as the road is straight.

[Russellc]

Sheesh. There are holes in the plastic grills around the headlights. These adjust your up/down, left/right.

As far as output goes. aftermarket HID's in stock housings suck ass. Sure they look good from oncoming but I want good light from behind the wheel. And I quickly learned if you want white/blue lighting then you don't want good visibilty.

I bought 35W slimline digital upgrade for my car. Hated it.... I then tried making custom cutoff shields. Which was better but still not great. I finally decided Fit... And went with TSX projectors. I utilized the prolumen 35W digital ballast kit with Philips D2s 85122+ bulbs in stock TSX housings. I wrote up a thread on the swap but am too drunk and lazy to find it. Look through my past posts.

I can assure you that you will not be happy with HID's unless you A. go with 4300K (not 5k or 6k) and B. go with a factory HID housing and do the retrofits. Which is easier than you would think

Not sure which years of our e34s have projector lights like my 95. Not all do. Without projector lights, HID conversion will not work well as light scatters in all directions with no sharp cutoff. Blinds oncoming drivers as well. I used DDM 55w 4300k slimlines and they work well in my 95 525i

[M Quick]

Sheesh. There are holes in the plastic grills around the headlights. These adjust your up/down, left/right.

As far as output goes. aftermarket HID's in stock housings suck ass. Sure they look good from oncoming but I want good light from behind the wheel. And I quickly learned if you want white/blue lighting then you don't want good visibilty.

I bought 35W slimline digital upgrade for my car. Hated it.... I then tried making custom cutoff shields. Which was better but still not great. I finally decided Fit... And went with TSX projectors. I utilized the prolumen 35W digital ballast kit with Philips D2s 85122+ bulbs in stock TSX housings. I wrote up a thread on the swap but am too drunk and lazy to find it. Look through my past posts.

I can assure you that you will not be happy with HID's unless you A. go with 4300K (not 5k or 6k) and B. go with a factory HID housing and do the retrofits. Which is easier than you would think

I think it sounds like you where using freeform headlights for your HID conversion which i totally understand that it'll suck donkeydi*k. As those lights are especially made not to work with HID's. Only the real deal (projectors) will do the work for you with HID's. I don't know if the US projector works as good as euro smileys, but i suppose they should.

[attack eagle]

Sorry bro. I live in NYC. Last I checked it's not a ghetto. Really? I thought NYC was the definition of ghetto. :lol



Miche: you talk out your ass too much. You are in another country. You are a nooB. At least read the thread in question before spouting your "knowledge". Brandon is right. BTW HiD retros are illegal because they don't have filaments like the lighting system was certified with... (thus so are led bulbs)


/flitcher:

#1 reflector is filthy
#2 lens is filthy
#3 outer lens is filthy.


DO NOT WIPE reflector nor outer lens, or you will wipe the chrome off.

That's about a 30% improvement if those are clean.

[RVAE34]

Mine are Euro smiley projectors

[attack eagle]

eggs act lee

[gomezmk]

The left side is suppose to be lower than the right to prevent blinding of oncoming traffic.