View Full Version : Key wont turn!!
jbd5015
12-07-2009, 09:07 AM
Ok this is one of the MOST annoying things on the face of the earth with Wolfie.
This only seems to happen when its cold out, and only intermittently. This morning Im headed to work (or so I thought). I get in the car, put key in ignition and it wont turn. I try to turn the wheel a little figuring it was the steering lock. No dice.
I turn the battery key off, walk away for a few mins...make a sandwich. Come back, figuring it had enough time to 'reset'. I try turning the key with the battery OFF. Nothing. Battery ON, nothing still.
Yesterday it did the same thing at night. Only this time it was after the car was already running for about 10 mins. I drove to the shop to give the car an indoor bath. I get to the door, shut the car off to unlock the people door so I can open the big door. I get back outside, and it wont turn at all. I shut the battery OFF, walk away for 10 mins and come back. Turn key with battery OFF, key turns.
Its not the steering lock. This morning i couldnt even get it to engage, the wheel would turn. Any ideas? Im thinking of just leaving a spare key in the car with it turned to the 'RUN' position and just pull the battery key. Its quite frustrating...
-Jeff
BoldUlysses
12-07-2009, 09:44 AM
Sticky lock cylinder? Have you tried lubing it up? Take off the steering column trim, put the thin straw on the nozzle of a spray can of silicone and spray strategically, working the lock the whole time. My tumblers were sticky a couple of months ago and the silicone really helped.
-Matt
edro14
12-07-2009, 09:49 AM
I to have two Bmw's that cause either hard start or flooding.
My 633csi suffers from hard start. I have replaced cold start valve, fuel filter, fuel pump and even ignition switch. The problem continues. I have also switched igniter and the Ignition control unit, the problem continues.
My 733 I...yes a 1979 runs like a top, does have the notion of what I suspect is flooding, I turn on ignition and try to start, if I cut off the starter to quickly she then will not start, so I have to allow her to rest a few (about 30 Min) she then will start.
Regarding the 633CSI, if anyone has any suggestions regarding the problem and the cure please email me @ed_romero32@msn.com, thank you. If anyone has a cure for the 733I please send me e-mail.
Thank you.
jbd5015
12-07-2009, 09:53 AM
I was thinking of getting some lube in the cylinder to try and help. But my question is why would it happen after the car was already running. The car was off for about 30 seconds and it locked up. Perhaps its just that finicky or something...
Ill give the silicone treatment a shot and see what happens!
-Jeff
Alex E24 E30
12-07-2009, 09:57 AM
I'm with Matt on the sticky lock cylinder.
Does the ignition cylinder have the same ball bearing design that the door locks do? Cause if it does, then that could also point to a potential cause.
Alex
CW6er
12-07-2009, 10:50 AM
I to have two Bmw's that cause either hard start or flooding.
My 633csi suffers from hard start. I have replaced cold start valve, fuel filter, fuel pump and even ignition switch. The problem continues. I have also switched igniter and the Ignition control unit, the problem continues.
My 733 I...yes a 1979 runs like a top, does have the notion of what I suspect is flooding, I turn on ignition and try to start, if I cut off the starter to quickly she then will not start, so I have to allow her to rest a few (about 30 Min) she then will start.
Regarding the 633CSI, if anyone has any suggestions regarding the problem and the cure please email me @ed_romero32@msn.com, thank you. If anyone has a cure for the 733I please send me e-mail.
Thank you.
What does this have to do with Jeff's key?? :nono
We will be glad to answer, but you need to ask it on a new separate thread and not Hi-jack this one. :D
Jeff, sounds like you may need a new key cut, the lock won't turn if the tumblers aren't lined up because the key is worn, but unless you have a spare key that still has a sharp profile, I'm not sure how you get a new one cut that works, unless you take the cylinder out so you can see if the tumblers are lining up when you put the key in. It may come down to a new lock cylinder and key.
alpinacsi
12-07-2009, 11:14 AM
Next time this happens; flip the key over and try again. The keys have a semetrical cut and if one side is worn more than the other, it might not work.
jbd5015
12-07-2009, 11:35 AM
I was trying both sides as well. I think im going to go to the dealer and have a new key cut as well. The ones i have are all worn and cheap brass.
-Jeff
CW6er
12-07-2009, 11:39 AM
I think that there is a number on the lock cylinder that the dealer needs and then they can cut a key to match, give them a call first to confirm.
Is it true that they can cut a key to the VIN number? But if the ignition lock cylinder has been replaced??
Bert Poliakoff
12-07-2009, 12:44 PM
I know for sure that all the door locks, deck lock and glove box lock have the key code on them. Any locksmith can make an accurate key with this code. OR, take your title to the stealer, and they can get you a new factory key without having the lock code. This only applies to NA cars, at least at my local dealer
BrickSykes
12-07-2009, 01:00 PM
Any ideas? Im thinking of just leaving a spare key in the car with it turned to the 'RUN' position and just pull the battery key. Its quite frustrating...
Here are a couple of DIY threads with pics for removing the cylinder and repairing it:
http://evansweb.info/articles/2003/01/19/removing-the-ignition-lock-barrel
http://forum.bmw5.co.uk/viewtopic.php?f=9&t=20971
If the key is not turning at all it is probably not a 'stuck cylinder' but likely a 'sticky or stuck tumbler'. Good luck
Brick
jbd5015
12-07-2009, 01:14 PM
it sounds as though the 2nd link did a lot more work to get the cylinder out. Does anyone know if i need to get the whole column apart to get that cylinder out? Or just get my allen key?
Hopefully the tumbler will turn this time when i get home! Im pretty sure it will. The only reason it will is because I dont need it to then!
-Jeff
dm635
12-07-2009, 01:43 PM
I was trying both sides as well. I think im going to go to the dealer and have a new key cut as well. The ones i have are all worn and cheap brass.
-Jeff
I was getting ready to post just this. If your key is a copy, it likely has been copied more than once & the cuts get worse. When I got my dealer cut key, I couldn't believe the difference between the 2. Could have passed as 2 different keys. When I did mine it was only $12-15.
CW6er
12-07-2009, 02:08 PM
Jeff, Our lock cylinders are different then either to the two in the links, but similar principle. The hole for the release is on the side of the cylinder on ours, not on the outside face like the 2 in the links.
Remove the Steering Wheel and the bottom steering column cover and then insert a small screwdriver in the hole on the back side of the cylinder as you turn it with the key clockwise and then pull it out. Page 18-14 in the Bentley.
jbd5015
12-07-2009, 02:18 PM
Thanks for the tips guys! Im going to go talk to the local locksmith in a bit to see what he might be able to do. The title for the car is back home, so id have to get pops to mail it to me which'll take a couple days.
-Jeff
CW6er
12-07-2009, 03:12 PM
The title for the car is back home, so id have to get pops to mail it to me which'll take a couple days.
Do you think you would need the title? You've got the original key, the car, your car registration and an ID, I would think that would be enough?
jbd5015
12-07-2009, 05:11 PM
well ive got a temporary fix for now. I just leave the key half turned and pull the battery key. that way i can get to work on time!
-Jeff
Called the dealer. As i figured, they werent much help, and the help they offered was $40 for a key they didnt have in stock, nor did they have the machinery to cut it...
Thats just a taste of the local BMW dealership...
Anyhow, there is a locksmith within a half mile of me. I pulled the trunk lock (not to hard) and went down there. They said that i would be better off pulling the passenger door. I went out ot the parking lot, put the trunk back together and got the passenger door apart. I got the cylinder out enough to read the 'code' on the side of the cylinder.
Took that back in and had the key and a duplicate cut brand new for $15 total. And now i have the code, so if i want to get a steel key with a big plastic fob i can do that later. For now i prefer the smaller 'valet key' as it fits better on my key chain.
Anyhow, the locks work easier, so does the ignition. I put a little bit of lube in the ignition to see how that helps me out.
Thanks for all the tips guys!
-Jeff
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