Valve Adjustment

[Lavalamp]

I'm in the middle of adjusting my valves and from what i've read it should be .009 at the cam or .012 at the valve stem.
well on my first set of lobes i've already come into a problem... on one side i can free slide the .008 and the .010 won't fit (i don't have a .009) but at the valve stem a .010 is snug and i can't fit a .012 at all.
so should i just not worry about the cam side and adjust at the valve stem like most manuals say to, or should i just adjust at the cam side and not worry about the valve stem side (even though it'll be a little harder since i don't have a .009 gauge.
or is there something wrong with my cam? what should i do?
this is my first time adjusting valves so i just wanna make sure i do everything right.

[GCR]

Don't adjust at the lobes. If you scratch the surface hardening with the feeler gauge, you'll shorten the life of the cam. Adjust (cold) 0.30mm between the valve stem & the eccentric. You should have slight resistance on the feeler gauge if the clearance is correct.

[JRanmann]

this is my first time adjusting valves so i just wanna make sure i do everything right.


Don't adjust at the lobes. If you scratch the surface hardening with the feeler gauge, you'll shorten the life of the cam. Adjust (cold) 0.30mm between the valve stem & the eccentric. You should have slight resistance on the feeler gauge if the clearance is correct. Second this above posting!

http://www.bmwe34.net/E34main/Maintenance/Engine/valve_adjust.htm

[Lavalamp]

thanks, that's what i did.
it seemed like all my clearances were too tight (like .010") except for one that was more than .050" so hopefully it'll run better now.

[dm635]

I had a problem with valve tick on one or two valves after adjustment. Just couldn't adjust the tick out. Then I read somewhere that if the valve stem end & eccentric where not perfectly smooth to each other that the adjusment will be off causing the tick (gap slightly larger). The gap will be off because either the eccentric or valve end can become concave or convex worn. The flat feeler gauge does not flex to the wear & only measures the high point between the 2 surfaces. The resolution for this was to measure at the cam & rocker. That will cause the mesh between the valve & eccentric to close up firmly if there is any wear.

*This method of adjustment should only be performed if you still have valve tick after adjusting using the conventional method*. And I'm talking about a very noticeable tick, not the normal valve train song. I adjust mine to .011" at the cam to rocker. The tick I had finally disappeared. Mine is quiet enough now to not warrant pulling the head to machine the valve stem end & replace eccentrics.

Caution: Adjusting the valves too tight can result in burnt valves.

[Lavalamp]

yeah that's pretty much what i had read somewhere that's why i was thinking about adjusting at the cam, but i also didn't want them too tight. so i figured i'd just adjust at the valve stem for now and see how that goes.

[jmitro]

helpful hints in here. thanks guys. I was just contemplating taking my car to a local shop for the adjustment, but now maybe I'll do it myself.

[smaglik]

when i did mine, i made sure that .010 could slip through, but .012 couldnt. i read the same thing dave did, but i didnt really have much tick. only 2 valves were out of spec. this was about 2000 mi ago, and its still quiet as can be.

[JRanmann]

thanks, that's what i did.
it seemed like all my clearances were too tight (like .010") except for one that was more than .050" so hopefully it'll run better now.A too tight clearance is indicative that you need to keep an eye on this more often as when it's too tight the valve does not sit on the head for enough time each rotation to expend it's heat into the head and thus cool fast enough to keep it from crisping...esp. with today's low octane fuel ratings .... you want to hear the 'tick' rather than nothing at all....get a metric set of feelers!

[BrickSykes]

A too tight clearance is indicative that you need to keep an eye on this more often as when it's too tight the valve does not sit on the head for enough time each rotation to expend it's heat into the head and thus cool fast enough to keep it from crisping...esp. with today's low octane fuel ratings .... you want to hear the 'tick' rather than nothing at all....get a metric set of feelers!

Right, you are, Randy.

It should be remembered that ticking valves are not an indication of 'wrong' valve clearance. These M30's do not have 'hydraulic' valve lifters that will take up a certain amount of 'over' or 'under' in the valve lash. Under no circumstances should these valves be set 'by ear'; that is, the only reliable criterion is the Book, and the Book says 0.012" Cold, and 0.014" Hot. An old mechanic's adage was: "If you can hear them ticking, you know they're not Too Tight!" I set mine at 0.012" GO and 0.013" NO GO! And I hear 'em and smile!

Brick