Changing front struts:

[CarlfromBoston]

What is the procedure for changing the front struts- they are the insert kind that slide into the lower portion of the wheel hub? How are they held in there?

I have a very nice manual for the E38...

Thanks.

[KyleCleveland]

Just give a call to Stir Fry A Lot to do it for you...thats what I did on my rear struts. (Thanks again, btw)

Someone correct my order or chime in if I miss a step!

Jack up the front of your car, then sit it on some mounts.
Remove wheels
Remove brake lining sensor from back of calipers
Remove brake calipers
Hang caliper to framework (don't let it hang by the brake line!)
Remove rotor via hex nut in front of hub
Remove ABS speed sensor wire thingy
Remove 3 nuts surrounding strut mount (inside engine compartment)
Remove 3 large (22mm?) bolts behind hub
Carefully pull entire shock/strut assembly from car

Compress the spring using a spring compressor (You can rent one for $10 bucks from AutoZone, Kragen, etc)
Remove top nut from strut mount
Pull the still compressed spring from your assembly
Unscrew the large nut that holds the assembly to the strut (I used a big red pipe wrench to break the nut, then handunscrewed!)
Pull old gross strut out and repeat process to reinstall

I probably should have taken pictures when I did this. Replacing struts really SOUNDS more complicated than it is.

Pope

[paanta]

There are a few ways to get the strut out, but that's mostly fine. The only thing you have to worry about breaking is that ABS speed sensor.

Torque specs on some suspension components are very important. The Bentley has 'em. Make sure you put blue loctite on the steering plate bolts (IIRC, that's what the Bentley says) and if you loosen the control arms make sure you re-torque them with the car on the ground and loaded to whatever the spec is..

Good writeup here: http://www.bmw4life.com/suspensionLowellFA.htm

[uk525td]

youll have to drop the lower arm, a lot of hte time stock suspension wont pull out, however lowered will slide in and out without problems (imho)

[over]

Hi,

I need to do this on a '93 E34. I have a 19mm nut, and a hex shaped counter-hold at the top end of my strut insert. I haven't pulled out the whole strut assembly yet, but while it's mounted on the car, it seems that the 19mm nut is too far recessed for me to use even an offset wrench (so that I can counter hold with the hex thing
on top). Am I missing something or do I need a special tool? Or is it not so far recessed in the strut mount, once I unmount the whole assembly from the car?

thanks!!

[sweet e36 pimp]

deep welled socket and an a good impact is your friend here...

[Stir Fry A Lot]

A pipe wrench or vice will probably be necessary to get the collar nut off. The rest is pretty straight forward. Take everything apart and put it back together. Lol. Don't forget to add oil to the assembly before putting the strut in.

[zubbie]

Hi,

I need to do this on a '93 E34. I have a 19mm nut, and a hex shaped counter-hold at the top end of my strut insert. I haven't pulled out the whole strut assembly yet, but while it's mounted on the car, it seems that the 19mm nut is too far recessed for me to use even an offset wrench (so that I can counter hold with the hex thing
on top). Am I missing something or do I need a special tool? Or is it not so far recessed in the strut mount, once I unmount the whole assembly from the car?

thanks!!

once you get it off and compress the spring it's easy

[over]

Hi,

I'm new to this (and I haven't actually taken the assembly off so I don't
have it in my hands and am perhaps missing something obvious)
so please excuse the dumb question? I've got the deep
socket. But where do I counterhold? My strut's got the long accordian
boot. When I did my rear shocks, it had the short boot attached to the
bump stop. I just slid that stuff down to use a vise grip on the exposed
part (I figure it's not supposed to travel there anyway so no problem if I
score the shaft there). Here, it doesn't look like I can slide the boot down
to expose something to grip on (Am I wrong and it can be slid down?).
I would like to re-use the boot so I don't want to destroy it. I don't
mind gripping the business portion of the shaft of the old strut, but
when I assemble the new strut, where do I counter hold?

I'm guessing that an impact driver needs a lot less counterhold force for the same
net torque to the nut? Is that why an impact driver is prefered over a breaker bar?
Do I not need to counterhold at all with an impact driver?
Is it possible to do this without an impact driver?

Again, I'm sure I'm missing a few obvious things so thanks again for your
patience! :-)

[zubbie]

once the strut assembly is out of the car and you compress the spring you only need a box wrench and a hex key to remove the top nut. All the force is removed by the spring compressor so loosening the top nut is then easy.

Then off comes the upper mount, washers, spring, bumpstop, accordion shield exposing the collar nut.
Put the strut housing in a vise and pipe wrench off the collar nut. Strut then come out of the strut housing

[birkire]

The top nut can get really stuck over here so I grab the end of the shock tightly with a vise grip just below the top mount and use a 1/2" air gun for the nut

[CarlfromBoston]

I have removed the nut before lifting the car and then when you lift it all slowly un compresses and is apart. I may try this on the 540 and for reassembly. Spring compressors are a pain in the xxx.

[e34 life]

changing the front is the worst, ha. good luck

[AquilaBMW]

I will be doing this in the near future. I plan to replace my front and rear struts and install Dinan springs while at it.

Can anyone add more information to this thread? Pictures if possible? Or is there already a DIY thread or something similar I can check out?

I keep hearing about adding oil to the strut before re-installing the strut shock. What kind of oil is needed? How much and where do you actually put the oil? In the strut where the shock goes?

Thanks for all the info.

[KBHumphrey]

Just give a call to Stir Fry A Lot to do it for you...thats what I did on my rear struts. (Thanks again, btw)

Someone correct my order or chime in if I miss a step!

Jack up the front of your car, then sit it on some mounts.
Remove wheels
Remove brake lining sensor from back of calipers
Remove brake calipers
Hang caliper to framework (don't let it hang by the brake line!)
Remove rotor via hex nut in front of hub - Optional
Remove ABS speed sensor wire thingy
Remove 3 nuts surrounding strut mount (inside engine compartment)
Remove 3 large (22mm?) bolts behind hub - Actually I believe they are 19mm
Carefully pull entire shock/strut assembly from car

Compress the spring using a spring compressor (You can rent one for $10 bucks from AutoZone, Kragen, etc)
Remove top nut from strut mount
Pull the still compressed spring from your assembly
Unscrew the large nut that holds the assembly to the strut (I used a big red pipe wrench to break the nut, then handunscrewed!)
Pull old gross strut out and repeat process to reinstall

I probably should have taken pictures when I did this. Replacing struts really SOUNDS more complicated than it is.

Pope
I recently installed new front springs and so the first half of these steps are still fresh in my mind. They are on point and accurate

[AquilaBMW]

I recently installed new front springs and so the first half of these steps are still fresh in my mind. They are on point and accurate

How difficult was it in practice? How long would you say it took to get each one out? I will also be changing the springs to Dinan springs.

[KBHumphrey]

Hi,

I need to do this on a '93 E34. I have a 19mm nut, and a hex shaped counter-hold at the top end of my strut insert. I haven't pulled out the whole strut assembly yet, but while it's mounted on the car, it seems that the 19mm nut is too far recessed for me to use even an offset wrench (so that I can counter hold with the hex thing
on top). Am I missing something or do I need a special tool? Or is it not so far recessed in the strut mount, once I unmount the whole assembly from the car?

thanks!!
If I'm understanding your question correctly:

Once you have the assembly out of the car, you can use a socket and Allen to remove/re-install the top nut. Slide socket over nut, insert Allen in through socket hole. Use long wrench to turn the socket while holding the Allen (I clamped the top part of the Allen in a vice grips for the necessary leverage.)

Hope that helps.


How difficult was it in practice? How long would you say it took to get each one out? I will also be changing the springs to Dinan springs.
From my experience, having done it on two E34s, you will probably spend more time cracking the bolts loose for the first time than actually removing and re-installing the strut assembly. Especially if, like me, you're up on jackstands. I also had problems getting the springs to bed correctly into the pads because of the compressors so that added time.

moving at a careful, somewhat leisurely pace, I'd say two hours end to end for both sides. And really, you should have time to burn afterwards, but when it's your first time, you tend to go a lot slower.

[AquilaBMW]

If I'm understanding your question correctly:

Once you have the assembly out of the car, you can use a socket and Allen to remove/re-install the top nut. Slide socket over nut, insert Allen in through socket hole. Use long wrench to turn the socket while holding the Allen (I clamped the top part of the Allen in a vice grips for the necessary leverage.)

Hope that helps.

KB - I had to chuckle here... Over asked that question back in 2009 :D

[KBHumphrey]

youll have to drop the lower arm, a lot of hte time stock suspension wont pull out, however lowered will slide in and out without problems (imho)
Respectfully disagree. After the three bolts are off, crack the assembly a couple times to get broken loose from the bottom plate. You want to expose enough of the plate to push against, even a half inch will do. Push down on plate with foot and slide whole assembly off.


KB - I had to chuckle here... Over asked that question back in 2009 :D
That was one where I knew the answer to a question I didn't know I had until my first time. Then it was suddenly "Oh, so that's what they meant about the Allen wrench!"

[AquilaBMW]

Respectfully disagree. After the three bolts are off, crack the assembly a couple times to get broken loose from the bottom plate. You want to expose enough of the plate to push against, even a half inch will do. Push down on plate with foot and slide whole assembly off.


That was one where I knew the answer to a question I didn't know I had until my first time. Then it was suddenly "Oh, so that's what they meant about the Allen wrench!"

Still very useful information. Thanks. This makes the whole process seem less daunting.

I checked out the front strut assembly - what would be recommended to be changed? Like bump stops, springs pads, etc.?


EDIT: A LITTLE CONFUSED.

Okay, so I am planning to rebuild struts from a 530i and install in Heidi (540). They use the same strut towers or or mounts, etc.

Anyway, while checking out the parts to replace and order, I noticed that the European model has an adapter of some sort (See Part # 14 in first diagram). Anyone know what this is for? What it does? And if it is needed?

http://i717.photobucket.com/albums/ww171/ElaineBeemer/MzUyNl9w.png

I checked on US Model 540's as well, and though it is shown in the diagram - it is not a listed part. :help

Also, in the diagrams, there is Part #1 - It is called the Guide Support / Camber Correction. This is just the strut mounts right? It also indicates two choices - +30MIN or -30MIN. Anyone know what those numbers mean? Also, which strut mounts are recommended for a car that will probably have stiffer springs and shocks up front - running low profile tires?

US VERSION - 530 STRUT DIAGRAM:

In this diagram below, Part # 14 from above is not indicated at all. Any clues? Is that a 540 specific part only? Maybe due to a heavier engine or something? Or is it just a Europe specific part? It seems to be European specific from what I can find out so far.

http://i717.photobucket.com/albums/ww171/ElaineBeemer/NTQ4MDNfcA.png

[dalex44]

Not to thread jack or anything but I just bought billy sports and b&g springs I'm putting them in the weekend. The rears are basically simple right? Nd the fronts seem harder from what I know on the rears

You. Take out top and bottom bolts take out strut and compress springs take off top mount and take off spring and then reverse. Is that correct?

[AquilaBMW]

Not to thread jack or anything but I just bought billy sports and b&g springs I'm putting them in the weekend. The rears are basically simple right? Nd the fronts seem harder from what I know on the rears

You. Take out top and bottom bolts take out strut and compress springs take off top mount and take off spring and then reverse. Is that correct?

Not a thread jack - all strut information is useful and it saves on starting a whole new thread.

Was that question for the rears or fronts? Sedan or Touring?

[dalex44]

Its a sedan 95 540i. And I'm talking about rears which I hear is a lot simpler to do then fronts apparently I'm doing this job on all 4 struts and springs by my self so its a pretty big job for just me but ill get it done

[uk525td]

Respectfully disagree. After the three bolts are off, crack the assembly a couple times to get broken loose from the bottom plate. You want to expose enough of the plate to push against, even a half inch will do. Push down on plate with foot and slide whole assembly off.




i concur, the TD i had to free the lower arm off to move the strut out, the 525i not a problem...



EDIT: A LITTLE CONFUSED.

Okay, so I am planning to rebuild struts from a 530i and install in Heidi (540). They use the same strut towers or or mounts, etc.

Anyway, while checking out the parts to replace and order, I noticed that the European model has an adapter of some sort (See Part # 14 in first diagram). Anyone know what this is for? What it does? And if it is needed?

http://i717.photobucket.com/albums/ww171/ElaineBeemer/MzUyNl9w.png




on the 2 euro models ive done ive never seen that listed part so i dont believe its required

[AquilaBMW]

i concur, the TD i had to free the lower arm off to move the strut out, the 525i not a problem...

on the 2 euro models ive done ive never seen that listed part so i dont believe its required


Cheers mate! I wonder why it is even listed. I guess it won't matter anyway since I am replacing with 530 Struts (Same Part#). And it will have Dinan springs rated for the 540i Sports / 6.

[uk525td]

oh hang on i know
there are 3 types of strut mounts
my local parts shop had access to 2 of them ,the 3rd was listed for an M5, that one was what i ordered as 535 top mounts... part 14 would sit on the engine side of the strut... on top of the tower... however i tried to fix my strut with large washers, and i believe part 5 would have increased the lifespan of the strut mount

actually, looking again it wouldnt, itd mount between the strut and the body
how strange.... i wonder what its purpose is :S

please note ive only worked on 525i and 525td's

[AquilaBMW]

I could be wrong here, but from what I can tell, it kinda looks like an adapter for a strut brace. If you look at the recessed areas for the bolts, it does not impact the height of the strut of the top of it. It looks like a piece use to adapt something else - especially since it has bolt holes on the top. I think you were right the first time that it mounts "on top" of the strut tower - in the engine bay side.

If you are right that it mounts on the engine side, or on top of the strut tower, I can only it is there to adapt to, or mount something else.

[uk525td]

well, if it sits engine bay side, is it not just the dust cap retainer?

[AquilaBMW]

well, if it sits engine bay side, is it not just the dust cap retainer?

No... the dust cap snaps into the actual tower / body frame of the car ... iirc.

[uk525td]

meh, i dont know then :S

[AquilaBMW]

meh, i dont know then :S

Don't give up now man! :nono You are the engineer out of the two of us, give that old noggin a bit of a work out old chap!:alright

[dalex44]

the instructions that were given do you really have to remove the break caliper or can you do with out that step cause thats a real pain in the A**

[KyleCleveland]

the instructions that were given do you really have to remove the break caliper or can you do with out that step cause thats a real pain in the A**

In all honesty the brake caliper comes off in less than 5 minutes and is not hard to do at all. There is a little slot in the inner wheel well that is perfect for you to hang the caliper by also while you are doing your work. Coat hanger, zip ties, bailing wire (my personal fav) all do just fine.

Don't forget to buy some brake cleaner because you're going to make a mess out of the rotors and pads with dirt, grease, and fingerprints.

[dalex44]

how do they exactly come off? and just saying is the job do-able with out that step?

[KyleCleveland]

how do they exactly come off? and just saying is the job do-able with out that step?

You unbolt whatever attaches the caliper to the strut assembly and pull it off. If there is resistance getting the caliper off the rotor you can gently push the piston away from the rotor and then it will slide off. The details are hazy because I did this awhile ago but I've never touched the brakes on this car and I had zero difficulty getting them off.

I do not know if you can remove the struts while leaving calipers on there. I was going off the instruction of a friend who is more mechanically inclined than I am.

[AquilaBMW]

To answer the question, no you cannot remove the struts with the Calipers attached. The calipers have both the Wear Sensor and the ABS sensor attached.... you will have to disconnect them or rip them off. Also... you of course have the brake line or hose attached. If you decide you want to disconnect that - then you open a whole new can of worms. You will bleed brake fluid all over the place and you will surely have to refill and bleed your brakes and hopefully get it right.. not much fun for one man to do.

You may encounter challenges in getting the calipers off - not due to difficulty, but just hard to remove bolts and nuts. WD40 or PB Blaster could be your friend here. So would a ratchet style socket wrench and a mallet. The toughest will be the Size 12mm Bolts on the back of the Caliper Carriers - confirm the size, I could be wrong. To remove them, you need to disconnect the Pad Wear Sensor on the driver's side as well as the ABS sensor. I re-used my wear sensor and it is still okay.

Next, you will need to remove the anti-vibration / anti-squeal clip - silver when new, probably brown and a little rusty now. It just clips on - you can miss it. Then you will be an Allen wrench or attachment to remove the guide pins that hold the bracket which holds the pads. After that, you then need the 12mm socket, wrench and mallet to remove the bolts on the back of the caliper holder or bracket - it is a bit of a PITA because it is usually pretty firm and a bit of a tight squeeze... but very doable.

It is honestly not that complicated. Whatever you see in the Bentley will be more than adequate. Believe me, if I can do it you can too.

[miico]

can you post a pic to confirm? if they are the same as mine which I just changed myself a few weeks back you have to remove the brake caliper first, unplug all the break sensor wires, remove the 3 large bolts from the bottom of the strut mount, remove the bolt for the roll bar, then unbolt the 3 top strut bolts. then get a mallot and hammer it out from where the 3 large bottom bolts were holding it on.. I left the rotor on & it was heavy as hell but managable..& dont forget the spring compressor after its been removed cuz that thing has a ton of pressure on it..good luck..

[5senses]

Here's my help...

http://www.exx.se/maintenance/front_damper_spring/index.shtml

Very helpful site for E34's btw...

Wes

[530 i]

Thanks for that link Wes, one of the most comprehensive detailed site I have seen, particularly useful if you have a 535i but still great info in general.
http://www.exx.se./