getting inside the drivers door

[tomfitz]

I've got my 84 633, the lock works from the inside, but the key won't lock it, it just turns. It feels like the linkage is severed at the tumbler. I've tried to unscrew various parts of the door, but I am still not able to get all the way in. any clues?

Tom

[FlyWulf]

Hi Tom,

As far as getting the interior door panels off, do a search for window regulator on this site. With that you should be able to locate what you need.

I would also look for posts by CW6er, when you find him send him a personal message (PM). He is very knowledgeable and usually will link you to posts on other sites that include pictures and handle the same problem that you are having.

I have never removed a door lock tumbler or handle yet and I have read that it is not an easy job to do.

Good luck and keep posting your results,

Eddie E

[CW6er]

The door panel consists of three separate panels. The top sill is attached with screws at either end that are inaccessible with the door closed (it is not always necessary to remove this sill). Next is a flexible flat leather covered cardboard panel that slips under the top sill but has no connection to it. It only has two nylon snaps to hold it. Lastly is the large plastic "pocket" panel. This mounts over the center leather panel with four screws, several nylon snaps along the bottom and rear and a metal "L" shaped tab at the front.

With a thin blade knife, carefully pry out the mirror switch and unscrew the two screws underneath
http://bigcoupe.com/phpBB2/files/grabhandle_681.jpg

Red and Black Arrows are screws. The yellow arrow is the approximate location of the nylon snap on back of panel, there is another one forward.
http://bigcoupe.com/phpBB2/files/lowerpanelscrews_157.jpg

Use a screw driver to pry loose the nylon snaps down the back and along the bottom of the pocket, rotating pocket forward to release "L" shaped tab from slot in door:
http://bigcoupe.com/phpBB2/files/doorpocket_tab_207.jpg


The actuating rod may have just come off, or the lock cylinder may have broken. Check out this thread on the lock: http://bigcoupe.com/phpBB2/viewtopic.php?t=8016&highlight

http://bigcoupe.com/ims/pic.php?u=21GvpX2&i=351

[JRanmann]

...CW to the rescue....and to add, be careful with all those old plastic push- tabs as they break as soon as they see the light of day if pushed too far... (eg. don't force anything and use a wide pry-tool to pop off the panel tabs around the edges of the door) or buy new ones, as the resultant rattles (and hums) will drive you so crazy you won't want drive the car let alone get in from the outside...!

[Lsixer]

A temporary (read: lazy man's way) solution is to lock, and unlock your car from the trunk. I discovered by accident that by putting the key in the trunk cylinder and turning either direction, not pushing in to open the trunk, that it locks/unlocks both doors. Mine is an '87, so maybe I am assuming too much in that all model years had this feature.

[CW6er]

My driver's lock cylinder is getting stiff to turn, so I lock/unlock every thing with the trunk lock also, until I installed a remote lock in the trunk.

[tomfitz]

Well, I finally got around to tearing apart the door, it's the actuating arm is broken :(

[Alpinewhite 633]

Well, I finally got around to tearing apart the door, it's the actuating arm is broken :(
That is the saddest thing I have read all day!:(:(

[Seeker]

Well, I finally got around to tearing apart the door, it's the actuating arm is broken :(

driver's side?

the arm itself or the tumbler part like in the pic above?

[tomfitz]

it's the part that conntects to the tumbler

Somewhat OT... I had my brakes done the other day.. once under the car, they found that my suspension is shot. I basically need everything. I think I will start looking for a better 6 soon.