Instrument Pixel Repair-Almost nailed it finally

[Fishermikel]

Allright: I had a nice post about my experience with Pixel repairs but it was all deleted because I am not worthy of posting photos yet..
So here is the short version:

Had massive problems/bought a new ribbon/installed the new ribbon and now most of it works. Feel free to email me if you are thinking of the repair. I have had my cluster apart about 8 times and have spent countless hours on this project but here is a broken link to the results: xxxx://mikel.com/Uploads/pixels.jpg (just put http in the place of the xxxx)
Maybe someone can be so kind as to post the photo.
Thanks for all of the advice...I am out less than $100 on tools and the ribbon.

[mojocoggo]

http://mikel.com/Uploads/pixels.jpg

Awesome job. My MID however suffered a less fortunate fate, and I ended up chucking it and getting a new one from the yard.

[Chief Rocka]

Very nice... where did you get the ribbon?

[Fishermikel]

Very nice... where did you get the ribbon?

ebay user: csiboreszkudo

Took them 9 days to ship so the total wait was almost 3 weeks for it to get to me. I would order from them again though b/c of the directions and the guarantee that if you rip the cable and send it back to them they will replace it for shipping charges only.

When will I be able to post links and pictures? this is getting annoying. Had to re-type this message twice too.

[Edwin NL]

Nice job! I think you need 20 or 30 posts for pics?!

[BimmerBoy740I]

Can I ask how you get into the cluster? Is it the same method as Edwin where you have to drill the 4 holes in the front of the cluster?

[Edwin NL]

Yep

[njdjh2o]

WOW, I have to do this soon, I see my display pixel is starting to go, only in the miles drivens section for now.

[voodoomelon]

Why did you need a new ribbon cable though?
Did Edwins way of applying more pressure not work?

I need to fix mine big time, its totally unreadable.

[Vetteguy01]

Can you give me the thread for directions given by Edwins? I like the idea on replacing the ribbon, but have noticed if I put pressure on my pixels...they get better. Suggestions too?

[Bisquick Mehoff]

I need to do this as well. Thought about calling up bmwusa or w/e, because I remember something about them doing it for free. Some unconditional thingamajig or somethingrather...

[Fishermikel]

I followed several guides, mostly from links provided throughout these boads and E38.org. Basically I studied for two nights reading up on different methods. I DID drill the holes-talk about nerve racking!!!

-Also: I noticed that my torx did not work well. I used a T-10 and a T-9 to get them out once they were exposed by the holes I drilled. Maybe my tools need replacing.

-I DID have to replace the ribbon. My ribbon was toasted. There was no way to get it to work properly without the new cable. I tried at least 5 times. I even ripped the thing on the last time so I was going to have to get the new cable anyway I looked at it.

-After the cable arrived this is the first results...I haven't even adjusted the ribbon connections to be perfect. I am going to epoxy some parts that broke off of the plastic that the 4 screws go into to hold the unit tight and try again after I get my inspection sticker.

-I used strips of paper beneath the rubber pads to force a tighter connection.

-Acetone and Q-tips were used to clean the board and display lcd.

-the service area still does not work and there are a few pixels missing. The backlighting is not quite correct either but it is useable once again...now to tackle the mid job

Once again, thanks to all of those who provided the information for me to get this far...AND: I do not recommend this if you are mechanically or technically challenged.
I think the guys I bought this from have a website at pixelfix dot net...I plan on ordering the mid cable from them too.

[i047wmb00]

Also fixed mine recently. I followed the fix on E38. Not for the meek. Prying the display from the board was stressful, no where to leverage that wasn't potentially damaging. I flipped the pressure pads and added a strip of a business card for extra pressure. There was no conducter left on the old ribbon after removal, I had to raise the ribbon as high as it would go for a new contact. Went from an unreadable display, to everything but one row working. I would need a new ribbon to make it 100%
After reassembly, I noticed the temp display (unreadable previously) read -40 (celcius). Hmm, did I wreck something, or was it always reading that? On the drive home, no A/C (worked fine before). Slooowly, the temp started rising, and A/C comp kicked in, and all is well. Interesting that the A/C system relys on the cluster for ambient temp readings to activate compressor! ( as opposed to direct ambient temp sensor input, evap temp or A/C pressure inputs)

[jamrock]

Also fixed mine recently. I followed the fix on E38. Not for the meek. Prying the display from the board was stressful, no where to leverage that wasn't potentially damaging. I flipped the pressure pads and added a strip of a business card for extra pressure. There was no conducter left on the old ribbon after removal, I had to raise the ribbon as high as it would go for a new contact. Went from an unreadable display, to everything but one row working. I would need a new ribbon to make it 100%
After reassembly, I noticed the temp display (unreadable previously) read -40 (celcius). Hmm, did I wreck something, or was it always reading that? On the drive home, no A/C (worked fine before). Slooowly, the temp started rising, and A/C comp kicked in, and all is well. Interesting that the A/C system relys on the cluster for ambient temp readings to activate compressor! ( as opposed to direct ambient temp sensor input, evap temp or A/C pressure inputs)


I really appreciate the last part of your quote. I took my cluster out yesterday to replace blown bulbs and the a/c didn't work when I put it back in. Was really worrying about it till I read your post.

[DHS740IL]

I ordered the new ribbon yesterday on ebay. So, as soon as it gets here, I will be doing this repair.

[Fishermikel]

I ordered the new ribbon yesterday on ebay. So, as soon as it gets here, I will be doing this repair.

Keep us informed.

[IcemanBHE]

Don. Let me know when you do this. Im seriously thinking of gearing up to do this for people on the E32, E34, E38 and E31 cars.

What ribbon did you buy?

[bimmerZ5]

i know this thread is a couple years old... i hope some of you guys will still respond.

i just helped a friend do "part" of the Edwin fix on his X5. but I didn't pry the display off the board... there are metal contacts on the side that are the conductors to the bulbs that go from the display unit to the PCB board. when you pry that off, doesn't that break the solder? did you reflow the solder when you put the display back? i was really confused about that part... if some of you guys can help clarify that would be terrific.

and to fishermikel: your tools are fine. the 4 screws that hold the display are indeed T9 torx, not T10. The other screws (that hold the back cover) are T10. Edwin's instructions mentioned T10 and that was confusing or his unit had different screws but my friends 2002 X5 definitely had T9 screws.

BTW, when I say I applied "part" of Edwin's fix, I basically drilled the holes, loosen the screws and shoved thin sheets of plastic between the display and PCB board and tighten the screws to increase the pressure on the connector. This alone fixed about 95% of the problem except two lines; 1 in the middle of the message display (where you see the clock, date, MPG, etc.) and the 2nd was the left most side of the last digit in the odometer. I never had to remove the display from the PCB and was concerned about the conductors for the light bulbs on the back of the LCD display.

If the more experienced folks here could help clarify, I might tell me my friend we'd give it another try to see if we can fix the last 2 missing lines.