E34 535 coolant problems help Please

[eddy3987]

I have just got a 1989 E34 535i Se Auto, but it has a water/coolant problem.
Low Engine coolant is showing all the time on LSD display, no heat from heater, no air or coolant comes out of bleed screw on thermostat housing. it looks like thereis very little coolant in the top hoses, I think it may be an airlock, but you good people may know better.
many thanks in advance for answers received

[Binjammin]

:dunno try adding coolant.

[eddy3987]

Hi
Thanks for that, i have added coolant but the resovior is full and no more will go in

[Binjammin]

There's a little hose that goes from the reservoir to the radiator that likes to clog up, blow it out with compressed air. You've got a wicked air bubble in your cooling system, you need to bleed the hell out of it, then when you think all the air's out start the car and turn the heaters all the way to full, and the blower all the way up. You'll have another air bubble to bleed, once that's gone you should be ok.

[eddy3987]

many thanks will try it tomorrow

[BMWheadSpence]

clogged lines?
BTW, welcome to BF.c in case you haven't been formally welcomed yet
post some pics in the e34 registry

[bigsixe34]

also with the bleeder screw open hold the revs at ~1500-2000 RPM. helped me hugely to get air/bubbly coolant flowing out. Just be sure to watch the temp gauge. Thank Ben for that one. :thumbup:

[russiankid]

Since he has an auto I would not advise him to rev the engine unless he wants the risk of having transmission problems. Its a known fact on the M30 auto's.

Try pressurizing the system with your mouth. Blow into the expansion tank and have the bleed screw open. Also, have the heater on full.

[bigsixe34]

^ didn't think about that.. would a few minutes at higher RPM really run the risk of damaging the tranny? damn slushboxes :rolleyes

[Binjammin]

Since he has an auto I would not advise him to rev the engine unless he wants the risk of having transmission problems. Its a known fact on the M30 auto's.

Try pressurizing the system with your mouth. Blow into the expansion tank and have the bleed screw open. Also, have the heater on full.

First of all, let me address the mouth on the cooling system thing. It's gross, there's stuff in there that can make you sick, and it's seriously gross.



Second, the 4hp22 issue related to revving the engine in park or neutral AFTER having driven the car in gear. Let the car sit for 30 seconds to a minute after driving while off and you should be fine.

[russiankid]

First of all, let me address the mouth on the cooling system thing. It's gross, there's stuff in there that can make you sick, and it's seriously gross.



Second, the 4hp22 issue related to revving the engine in park or neutral AFTER having driven the car in gear. Let the car sit for 30 seconds to a minute after driving while off and you should be fine.
You don't inhale or drink the coolant. The procedure is proven to work.

[eddy3987]

Hi
Thanks for the tips I will try them out when the weather improves, rainning cats & dogs at the moment

[BavarianFanatic]

After you're certain the line is clear from the tank, make sure to have the bleed screw open as you add coolant. I also like to "pump" the lower radiator hose a few times as I'm filling to help burp the air out.

[eddy3987]

tryed all these recommendations, but no coolant coming from bleed hole. return pipe is clear but water from radiator is not being forced thru the pipe (lack of power).
COULD THE WATER PUMP NEED REPLACEING???

[eddy3987]

Hi
Bleed hole was blocked in the thermostat housing, now bleeds but Still no heat from heater. It looks like the coolant is not circulating, as the top radiator hose feels empty. should i replace the water pump or am i missing something
any ideas most welcome

[bustedbmw]

The hose will only be hard when the car is hot. That being said, if the car is hot and the return hose is still "soft and limp"(well maybe not limp), then my money would be on a stuck thermostat.