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ih8rainnc
05-26-2009, 10:59 PM
Okay, I've got a rebuilt rack from the Rack Doctor and I hit a wall tonight during the install. I can't get the steering column coupling onto the steering input shaft on the rack.

The last time I did it this part was a real pain. Does anybody have a tip or trick for this?

96bimmer801
05-27-2009, 12:25 AM
I had the same problem. Just replaced mine about 2 weeks ago...twice. What we did was have one guy kind of turn the wheel back and forth while the other is pushing it in. It's a real pain to get all the way in there. That's the best way we found out to do it.

atlantisvip
05-27-2009, 04:33 AM
How did you know you needed a new rack ?

328 Power 04
05-27-2009, 05:39 AM
it's a really big pain, had to do that when i did my oil pan... I was so frustrated that i left the car all opened up overnight and did it the next day. Then i lowered the whole subframe and put it up that way. It needs to go straight up into it, if you grease it a little it goes in better, rubber mallets are helpful

ih8rainnc
05-27-2009, 10:41 AM
Thanks for the input. I'm going to try these out.... subframe removal being the backup plan. I'll probably also remove the coupling from the shaft and see if I can get it to go on at all.


How did you know you needed a new rack ?

Seals were leaking oil and making a mess of the car and garage. The pump started failing first, slowly tearing itself apart from the inside. The impeller vanes had worn a couple of lips/ridges on the wall of the casing causing it to make an interesting clattering noise when it was running.

I'm thinking the shavings from the pump ended up tearing up the seals. The oil was black and sludgy but I haven't run it through a filter yet. I expect to find a bunch of shavings. I've flushed the lines and reservoir and I've got a new pump installed.

Got the coupling on tonight. I chose to remove the coupling from the steering shaft and submerge it in boiling water to heat the aluminum and expand the hole a bit. Acting quickly to get it on both shafts before it cooled I managed to get it all aligned without too much hammering.

atlantisvip
05-28-2009, 12:21 AM
Interesting.. I have a shitload of oil and sludge in my undercarriage that I can not pinpoint cause its so dirty.. I sucked the old PS fluid out with a turkey baster cause it was so black.. Within a week the new fluid is black again. Is this a sign ? Have intermittent vibration/wobble in the steering wheel that comes and goes too..

ih8rainnc
05-28-2009, 10:20 AM
I sucked the old PS fluid out with a turkey baster cause it was so black.. Within a week the new fluid is black again. Is this a sign ?

A turkey baster doesn't empty the reservoir. It only gets part of it. There is a shelf a little over half way down so about 1/3 will stay in if you don't drain it, plus all of the fluid in the rack and pump is still there. That'll mix in and cloud the new stuff. You should consider draining and flushing the ps system if it's that black.

As far as that being the source of the mess under the car, if you're not having to refill the system then it's not leaking. If you are it's most likely the power steering hoses but in my case it was definitely coming out of the rack.

The following was provided by Rich at the Rack Doctor as part of their support for their rebuilt racks. I'm posting this with his permission. If you're not replacing the rack you'll obviously have to modify some of the steps.



PROTECT YOUR INVESTMENT!
DON’T ONLY CHANGE THE RACK,
CHECK THE REST OF THE SYSTEM.

The fact that your old rack is leaking or has stiff steering may indicate that another component in the system may have caused the problem. A properly maintained steering system should last 70,000 miles. In order to determine why the system failed, we recommend that you do the following: collect a sample of the old fluid, which can be retrieved from the pump or the rack itself by turning the pinion back and forth. The fluid you collect should be filtered through a coffee filter, napkin, or left to settle in a clean cup for at least 30 minutes.

After you have filtered the fluid, look to see if there is any foreign material, such as pieces of the hose (they deteriorate on the inside), or metallic particles from the power steering pump. The particles cause most racks to prematurely fail. If the cup method of filtering was used, tip the cup on its side and rotate it slowly to see if either hose or metal has settled to the bottom. In either case, if foreign material is discovered, the power steering pump and hoses must be replaced, and a thorough flushing of the system is required for the warranty to be honored.

PROCEDURE FOR FLUSHING
(SHOULD BE DONE WITH ALL INSTALLATIONS)

1. Remove the old rack from the car, and compare it with the unit you were supplied. Verify that the length is the same. If they are not the same, call our Tech Hotline to verify that the unit is correct. Before returning the core check to make sure you have all the necessary hardware off your old unit before you return it for credit.
2. If the vehicle has a remote power steering reservoir (as in many import applications), remove it from the vehicle, wash it out and reinstall it. If the reservoir is attached to the pump, drain the system by running the vehicle to pump it dry (10 seconds only). We also recommend that you examine the fluid for foreign materials from the pump or hoses, and replace the related items if necessary.
3. With an air hose and a long tip blow gun, blow into the bottom of the empty resevoir to loosen the sediment. COVER THE OPENING OF THE RESERVOIR WITH A SHOP TOWEL AND YOUR HAND. WEAR SAFETY GOGGLES.
4. Now start the car and pour a gallon of power steering flush (or transmission fluid) through the pump reservoir.
5. Turn the car off. Discard this fluid.
6. Place the pressure and return hoses into the empty gallon container you just used and start the car again. Now pour 1 quart of power steering fluid through the power steering pump resevoir.
7. Turn the car off.
8. Now look at the fluid you just collected in the 1 gallon container. If it is not ABSOLUTELY clean, repeat the procedure again. If this does not clean the system, replace the power steering pump and hoses.

NOTE: A second person to start and stop the engine will make this procedure easier.

DO NOT RUN THE CAR ANY MORE THAN NECESSARY WHEN FLUSHING THE SYSTEM

Remember the smallest piece of foreign material can cut the high-pressure lip seals causing the unit to leak. A CLEAN SYSTEM IS A MUST.

Once you are satisfied that the system is flushed clean, then install the new rack and pinion. Use only manufacturers recommended power steering fluid when re-filling the system. This procedure must be followed to validate your warranty.

atlantisvip
05-28-2009, 09:16 PM
Dang.. Thanks.