I hate an fittings!!!!

[XR000mb]

so i was working on my oil drain system and im using 10AN braided hose, and i cant figure out how to get it to go!

i lightly cut the braided hose with a disc grinder, but no matter how gently i do it, it always flares!! then i try to fit the red cap through it and it all just gets meshed and my index finger feels like shit from getting stabbed so much. anyone either have any tricks to do it?

or anyone advise any alternatives from the summit racing website?

[m3ltw98]

The -10 is usually quite easy. I wrap the section I want to cut in electrical tape, cut with my 4.5" cutoff wheel, unwrap the tape, blow/rinse the hose out. What I'll do sometimes is take the red "olive" and chuck it in my vise. With a right hand twisting and pushing motion, I'll insert the hose. You'll feel it catch and start to turn in. I usually get the hose in half way until I take an metal working wood hammer and tap it on the rest of the way. I use the koul tool for -4 and -6 as they're a bitch to get started. Hope this helps a bit.

[dot communist]

would one of those roller cutters for copper pipe work for this application?

[rt turbo]

The -10 is usually quite easy. I wrap the section I want to cut in electrical tape, cut with my 4.5" cutoff wheel, unwrap the tape, blow/rinse the hose out. What I'll do sometimes is take the red "olive" and chuck it in my vise. With a right hand twisting and pushing motion, I'll insert the hose. You'll feel it catch and start to turn in. I usually get the hose in half way until I take an metal working wood hammer and tap it on the rest of the way. I use the koul tool for -4 and -6 as they're a bitch to get started. Hope this helps a bit.
ditto. You must use electrical tape where you cut. just tape it and cut through the taped section.


would one of those roller cutters for copper pipe work for this application?
no way.

[card counter]

http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/articles-miscellaneous/218391-how-work-stainless-braided-hose-fittings.html


http://www.holley.com/data/TechService/Technical/Swivel-Seal%20Hose%20Assembly.pdf

[rt turbo]

http://www.holley.com/data/TechService/Technical/Swivel-Seal%20Hose%20Assembly.pdf
IN this install notes: "If the hose has backed

more than about 1/16" out of the socket as you assembled it, curse and return
to Step 3."

LOL

[XR000mb]

thanks for the help guys. going to try the tape thing and hope that works

[BimmerBoy]

If it helps, and from my limited experience, i used this method when plumbing my oil cooler lines with -10AN fittings:

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=aDSozy6MZto

Not sure of others experience, but this worked for me.

So far everything seems to be fine. I did mark my line and fitting location like in step 2 of the holley instructions as well.

[5mall5nail5]

Wrap the line in electrical tape TIGHT, or use that threaded tape (packing tape with reinforced plastic strands in it). THEN cut the line off with a cut off wheel.

Pull the tape off carefully.

Lube the inside of the hose with motor oil a little bit. Put the outter piece in a vice with a cloth around it so not to much it up. Twist back and forth as you slide the hose in careful not to snag any braid on the lip.

Then, lube the insert fitting with oil a little bit and slide it in and get a coupl threads started by hand if possible. Then, work it with an AN wrench (a steel wrench works but messes up all the anodize)

Make sure to mark the hose with a sharpie once its in the first insert portion so you can tell if its being pushed out as you assemble.

[LukeG]

how about motor oil on fittings for the fuel system. Will that be safe?

[5mall5nail5]

You're just applying it to slip the hose on. You're not like, filling the hose :)

[LukeG]

yeah, i suppose i'm thinking too much into it. It would be like a 1% oil/fuel ratio once the fuel filled the line. I put my first two (on the fuel pump hangers supply/return) on without using oil and i didnt really pay attention if the hose backed out when tightening (pretty sure it didnt.) But they sure as hell seem TIGHT in there.

[XR000mb]

yeah i just tried the tape technique and it worked good. seems like its holding great! thanks for everything guys!

[AjRose]

If it helps, and from my limited experience, i used this method when plumbing my oil cooler lines with -10AN fittings:

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=aDSozy6MZto

Not sure of others experience, but this worked for me.

So far everything seems to be fine. I did mark my line and fitting location like in step 2 of the holley instructions as well.


Youtube Isn't working atm but that's the way I do it. And cutting it with the chisel gives super clean cuts.

[Sparks Factory]

i usually use a dremel with a cutoffwheel attachment for cutting this. it makes a finer cut, less of a chance of flyaways than using a regular cutoff tool.

the koultool is a fingersaver for dudes who do AN on a regular basis. otherwise at this point i think i wouldnt have fingerprints left.

http://www.koultools.com/

[dcvee]

I use masking tape...not electrical. It seems to make a better cut (for me anyway) plus you can make a mark on it with a sharpie and see it. Just put about 5 wraps on it. I use a 4-1/2 angle grinder with a real thin cut-off blade. Then I use a shop vac and clean the debris from inside the tubing.

I also use antisieze on the threaded portion of the fitting before pushing it into the hose.

Don

[5mall5nail5]

I like that packing tape with the nylon/plastic strands in it - it really holds tight. The chisel method looks good too.

[BimmerBoy]

I like that packing tape with the nylon/plastic strands in it - it really holds tight. The chisel method looks good too.

The main reason I like the chisel method is because when using tape, alot of times when I pull the tape off, it ends up pull the braiding apart too, especially at the end of the hose. But thats probably cause I'm not doing it properly. I figure why not just cut it with a chisel and be done with it, just got to make sure that the chisel is sharpend.

[Def]

Get one side of the hose started, then take a flathead screwdriver and gently work around the hose pushing the braid into the ferrule. -10 AN hoses take about 5 seconds to do with this method.

[shaeff]

I've done it a few ways. I used a chop saw with a cutting disc on it, cutting through tightly wound nylon reinforced packing tape, and the chisel method.

Both have worked perfectly for me. I prefer the chisel method, as there's less cleanup afterward of the inside of the hose.

[el bob]

There are lots of videos on www.anplumbing.com

[got psi]

I have been doing AN lines for 30 years and always use an acid brush and white grease. I brush it in the threads and some on the hose so the fitting slides into the rubber without resistance. This way it will not push the hose out of the fitting. ///J.T.///

[LukeG]

I have been doing AN lines for 30 years and always use a acid brush and white grease. I brush it in the threads and some on the hose so the fitting slides into the rubber without resistance. This way it will not push the hose out of the fitting. ///J.T.///

hey pal, thanks for giving me that tip when i was over..."use a wizzer wheel..." LOL!

[Mr Deagle]

I just buy them from Brown and Miller Racing Solutions.

[powder]

I would also suggest using the same companies fittings as line. Don't mix Earl's line with Accel fittings (or Russell, or anyone else). Tolerances on line ID, and fitting OD can lead to either an impossible fitting to build, or a leaky fitting under pressure. YMMV.