newb with questions

[rockrod]

So I inherited a 1995 525iM. It was my mom's, she bought it new from Taylor BMW in Augusta, GA. She just got tired of fixing all the little things wrong with the car, so I volunteered my expertise.

Anyways, this car has been passed around my other siblings, and all have contributed to it's current condition. A lot of it is cosmetic, and some of it is mechanical. I am currently trying to fix things up and make it a nice driver.

It has just under 120k miles on it. It just got a new clutch, new brakes, some front end work (bushings, control arms, ect) and the cooling system has been addressed with a new radiator, water pump with updated impeller, t-stat housing, and fresh coolant. It also had the pressure hose that supplies the vanos system with oil replaced.

The biggest issue right now is the transmisison. It has the getrag in it, and for some stupid reason, my brother had some 'expert' put what appears to be gear oil in the trans. Now we all know it takes synthetic ATF, heck it even says it right on the trans. Duh. Needless to say it doesn't shift all that great. Grinds going into first if the car is not completely stopped, and a little grinding when cold into second.

My plan is this... drain the wrong oil out and refill with the correct ATF. Drive for a few days, and then drain and refill with Redline MTF. Does anyone think there is any hope in doing this and restoring the shifting abilities of this transmission? I would really hate to have to swap to another trans, but I can do if needed. If this is the case, then it's ZF time from an M3.

Cosmetics... well half of the lower portion of the front bumper is gone....just gone. I have the foglight, but the rest is history. Needless to say I need a replacement front bumper. How hard are these things to change out? also, the driver's door had a small interference fit with my mom's garage door (this incident sealed the car's fate and it was brought to me shortly afterwards). She left the door open, car rolled back and viola, bent window frame. The door still opens and closes and the window works, but there is a bit of an air leak because the door frame no longer closes flush. Found a door, is it safe to assume this is another easy changout?

This car is actually in decent shape. It drives great, but the power is a little weak up here in Denver. The car spent many years in atlanta and the few times I drove it there, it seemed way more ballzy. I guess the altitude really kills that 2.5l engine. Would swap to a lower gear set (like a 3.46 or 3.64) help with this, or should I look for an S50 or S52 to swap in? Displacement (either real or turbo-induced) rules the roost around here.

advice is much appreciated.

[Deanx2009]

Sounds like a good car youv got there. 95's came with alot of things like sideskirts that my 94 doesnt have.. along with the widegrill which i absolutely love. Honestly for the M50 most people looking for real power go for turbo from what iv seen. no experience in my area though. though there are a few s52 swaps on the board too..What are you looking to get out of the car..?

and damn, these things run on atf. from power steering. to shifting. lol

[zubbie]

Welcome. Sounds like you could have a nice vehicle with a little TLC.

Flushing the tranny may help and can't hurt any more than the previous expertise but you may be in for a swap nontheless.

Door change should be simple if you are up to a tranny swap.

Chip that engine for a nice boost in power although living in the clouds really hurts performance of any engine.

diff swap is also a good idea and S50 / 52 are a fairly easy swap to really wake things up. There are a few guys here that have done this.

Get you post count up and show us some pics. GL

[neockder]

Parker? Nice.. moving to Wash Park area in June..

Bumper removal isn't that bad, however I had my hood and upper radiator support off when I did it.. I removed my from the rear of the crush pillars that mount to the unibody rails (near the ps pump, and below airbox - on my 535 that is)

Door should be a snap to take off, the hard part will be aligning it correctly upon install. I replaced 4 doors on a cherokee and took 4 or 5 tries on each door for them to align just right..

Good luck with the tranny!
http://i574.photobucket.com/albums/ss186/neockder/IMG_0603.jpg

[rockrod]

my plan once I get the issues dealt with is to go with a chip, and then look into lowering the car with new springs and getting some billy sport shocks and better sway bars. I also REALLY want a set of M5 turbines (prefered) or thowing stars. The power increases will come in stages. Chip first, and then start looking for an S50 motor/trans, and then a turbo. I am familiar with forced induction but I am not familiar with bosch ECUs. I suppose they can be chipped to work with boost (ie recurved MAF and larger injectors a la fox body mustangs).

If I change the rear diff for a lower ratio, do I need to do anything with the speedo recalibration? Or does the speed sensor work off the ring gear and will therefore read the correct speed. I see people changing rear sets, but nothing is ever said about the speedo correction.

[Binjammin]

I'm real sorry your mom blew up the car, Ricky.

[Sam Son]

I'm real sorry your mom blew up the car, Ricky.
http://i720.photobucket.com/albums/ww208/MGERME34/rands/better_off_dead.jpg
it be a real shame when people be throwing away a perfectly good white boy

[Binjammin]

:rofl

[David325e]

I think you might be the only guy on the board that will seek out turbines

[Sam Son]

^nope I would def go for a set of trubines

[rockrod]

http://i720.photobucket.com/albums/ww208/MGERME34/rands/better_off_dead.jpg
it be a real shame when people be throwing away a perfectly good white boy


that made me laugh!! :buttrock


I think you might be the only guy on the board that will seek out turbines

yup, but I have had a hard on for an M5 for years... I just like the all business look.

[Binjammin]

Just buy an M badge. :rolleyes

[rockrod]

Just buy an M badge. :rolleyes

why? you already have one and I could never be as cool as you.:rolleyes:rolleyes:rolleyes

[Binjammin]

I don't have one.

[94530inh]

The hardest part of the door install will be changing the locks out. Assuming its a front door.

You might be able to save the transmission, look into some additives.

check out car-part.com to find parts.

[Binjammin]

My plan is this... drain the wrong oil out and refill with the correct ATF. Drive for a few days, and then drain and refill with Redline MTF. Does anyone think there is any hope in doing this and restoring the shifting abilities of this transmission? I would really hate to have to swap to another trans, but I can do if needed. If this is the case, then it's ZF time from an M3.

Cosmetics... well half of the lower portion of the front bumper is gone....just gone. I have the foglight, but the rest is history. Needless to say I need a replacement front bumper. How hard are these things to change out? also, the driver's door had a small interference fit with my mom's garage door (this incident sealed the car's fate and it was brought to me shortly afterwards). She left the door open, car rolled back and viola, bent window frame. The door still opens and closes and the window works, but there is a bit of an air leak because the door frame no longer closes flush. Found a door, is it safe to assume this is another easy changout?

This car is actually in decent shape. It drives great, but the power is a little weak up here in Denver. The car spent many years in atlanta and the few times I drove it there, it seemed way more ballzy. I guess the altitude really kills that 2.5l engine. Would swap to a lower gear set (like a 3.46 or 3.64) help with this, or should I look for an S50 or S52 to swap in? Displacement (either real or turbo-induced) rules the roost around here.

advice is much appreciated.

So far as the tranny goes, I'd just drive the car, get it pretty hot in the tranny, then drain all the gear oil out. Throw the MTL in there and be done with it. No reason to throw all that ATF in there just to drain it out again. If you're worried about cross contamination of fluids, don't be. You'll be fine. Hopefully the gear oil wasn't installed to mask some weird issue, like a bad synchro or something. If it comes down to another tranny, you're fine with another Getrag, no reason to pay a premium for a ZF unless you're going to make a lot more power or beat the hell out of it. I'm guessing the "more power" won't be an issue at that altitude.

For the cosmetics, find a junkyard and get the front bumper with everthing included. It's a snap to remove, pop the marker lights out of the side trim, pop the side trim away from the front of the bumper, remove 4 17mm nuts, pull bumper off. Disconnect all lights. Probably one of the easiest parts to change on an e34.

So far as the door goes, it's pretty easy to change. Your best bet is to disconnect the wiring harness from everything inside the door, feed the harness through the door so it's free, then undo the door brake and unbolt the hinges. Find someone to help hold the door, it's heavy and bulky and you will be extremely unhappy trying to do it yourself.

For performance, try a chip first, then a diff, then cams. That's the evolutionary scale of both performance and expense. Do those in that order and see if you achieve your performance goals at each step. If not... keep spending :D



BTW, that M badge joke wasn't directed at you, I just used you to make the joke.

[David325e]

why? you already have one and I could never be as cool as you.:rolleyes:rolleyes:rolleyes

Yea man, you seem like a good noob. The M-badge was a joke from another thread.

And I just acquired 540 with a similar background story to yours, only it was the heads that a teen driver wrecked :eyecrazy.

Get some pics up and get her back in stock place, to start modding:D

[neockder]

BTW, that M badge joke wasn't directed at you, I just used you to make the joke.

:D :D He's luring ppl in! get away from that piece of cheese! its a trap!!


BTW.. not sure where the speedo is, but i don't think any car reads past the driveshaft.. unless you drive,.. a bicycle? ;)

[Binjammin]

:D :D He's luring ppl in! get away from that piece of cheese! its a trap!!


BTW.. not sure where the speedo is, but i don't think any car reads past the driveshaft.. unless you drive,.. a bicycle? ;)

I don't know what you mean by that, but if you're referring to the speed sensor, it's in the differential on our cars.

Past the driveshaft.

[attack eagle]

yep, many other vehicles have it in the diff too for that reason.

[rockrod]

Yea man, you seem like a good noob. The M-badge was a joke from another thread.

And I just acquired 540 with a similar background story to yours, only it was the heads that a teen driver wrecked :eyecrazy.

Get some pics up and get her back in stock place, to start modding:D

no worries. spend a lot of time over on pirate4x4.com since I have an extreme rock crawler. The ribbing there is normal and I expect the same treatment here.. Sounds like you have some work to get done as well.


So far as the tranny goes, I'd just drive the car, get it pretty hot in the tranny, then drain all the gear oil out. Throw the MTL in there and be done with it. No reason to throw all that ATF in there just to drain it out again. If you're worried about cross contamination of fluids, don't be. You'll be fine. Hopefully the gear oil wasn't installed to mask some weird issue, like a bad synchro or something. If it comes down to another tranny, you're fine with another Getrag, no reason to pay a premium for a ZF unless you're going to make a lot more power or beat the hell out of it. I'm guessing the "more power" won't be an issue at that altitude.

For the cosmetics, find a junkyard and get the front bumper with everthing included. It's a snap to remove, pop the marker lights out of the side trim, pop the side trim away from the front of the bumper, remove 4 17mm nuts, pull bumper off. Disconnect all lights. Probably one of the easiest parts to change on an e34.

So far as the door goes, it's pretty easy to change. Your best bet is to disconnect the wiring harness from everything inside the door, feed the harness through the door so it's free, then undo the door brake and unbolt the hinges. Find someone to help hold the door, it's heavy and bulky and you will be extremely unhappy trying to do it yourself.

For performance, try a chip first, then a diff, then cams. That's the evolutionary scale of both performance and expense. Do those in that order and see if you achieve your performance goals at each step. If not... keep spending :D




I really appreciate the tips. This car is a bit different for me. I used to own a 1970 2002 that I restored but that was about 18 years ago. I also used to own a pair of VW TDIs (an '05 passat wagon and an '06 Jetta with the fancy schmancy DSG trans). Those cars were cake to fix.


I went ahead a picked up some synthetic ATF today on the way home and filled up the trans. A quick test drive 'seemed' to make things better- it no longer seems to want to grinding hitting 2nd speed aggressively. First is still an issue, but now I can be moving about 2 mph and shift it into first without too much complaint. Think I will drive it a couple of days and then swap out the fluid the for RL MTL. If I do replace the trans, it's getting a ZF. All of my prior experiences with Get-Rags has been not so good.

I get the door and bumper tomorrow from the local salvage yard so the swapping will commence later this week.

Going back to the speedometer thing- I know people are swapping the diff assembly out for units with a lower (ie deeper- like 3.23 to 3.46), but what are they doing to compensate for the speedometer reading. I always thought the actual speed sensor that sends the signal for the speedometer reads of the ring gear, so that no matter what the diff ratio is, the ring gear is always going to turn so many times per mile and therefore the speedometer will read true road speed even if you go from a 3.23 ratio to say a 4.10 ratio. In cars that read driveshaft or trans output shaft speed, doing this ratio change will cause the speedometer to read fast.

clear as mud?

[David325e]

no worries. spend a lot of time over on pirate4x4.com since I have an extreme rock crawler. The ribbing there is normal and I expect the same treatment here.. Sounds like you have some work to get done as well.

Haha thats an understatement. The 540 is a two owner car that I got for freel. Excellent cosmetic shape, about 28k in receipts including a new trans, 174k miles. But, the head gaskets are bad. Curretly sitting at my mom's house until I'm home from school long enough to get it done.

Right now I'm driving an 88/525, m20 haha, with a totaled rear end and 270 on it.

And for the speedo, can a shop that calibrates speedos do it? If you've got 4bys I imagine you'd know of a shop around. I've never heard it discussed on this board, but the answers out there I'm sure.

[Binjammin]

no worries. spend a lot of time over on pirate4x4.com since I have an extreme rock crawler. The ribbing there is normal and I expect the same treatment here.. Sounds like you have some work to get done as well.



I really appreciate the tips. This car is a bit different for me. I used to own a 1970 2002 that I restored but that was about 18 years ago. I also used to own a pair of VW TDIs (an '05 passat wagon and an '06 Jetta with the fancy schmancy DSG trans). Those cars were cake to fix.


I went ahead a picked up some synthetic ATF today on the way home and filled up the trans. A quick test drive 'seemed' to make things better- it no longer seems to want to grinding hitting 2nd speed aggressively. First is still an issue, but now I can be moving about 2 mph and shift it into first without too much complaint. Think I will drive it a couple of days and then swap out the fluid the for RL MTL. If I do replace the trans, it's getting a ZF. All of my prior experiences with Get-Rags has been not so good.

I get the door and bumper tomorrow from the local salvage yard so the swapping will commence later this week.

Going back to the speedometer thing- I know people are swapping the diff assembly out for units with a lower (ie deeper- like 3.23 to 3.46), but what are they doing to compensate for the speedometer reading. I always thought the actual speed sensor that sends the signal for the speedometer reads of the ring gear, so that no matter what the diff ratio is, the ring gear is always going to turn so many times per mile and therefore the speedometer will read true road speed even if you go from a 3.23 ratio to say a 4.10 ratio. In cars that read driveshaft or trans output shaft speed, doing this ratio change will cause the speedometer to read fast.

clear as mud?


The tone ring for the speed sensor is on the output shaft inside the diff.

http://i99.photobucket.com/albums/l287/Bin_jammin/DSCN0843.jpg

You can see it on the right side inside.

[attack eagle]

if you want to swap for the getrag, don;t forget you need everything that bolts to the trans too.
xmember drivehaft and guibo, shifter linkage all from the same e34 zf donor car.

they only came on m50 cars from 9.90? till 7/92...

[neockder]

I don't know what you mean by that, but if you're referring to the speed sensor, it's in the differential on our cars.

Past the driveshaft.


yep, many other vehicles have it in the diff too for that reason.

Really? wow.. guess I HAVE spent too much time in 4x4s.. Always dealt with slip yoke elims.. so i saw quite a few speedo gears at the end(output) of trannys.

[attack eagle]

dodge Full size pickups have had it in the diff for at least the last 16 years.

trans tailshaft pick was really common until electronic controls, abs, etc came along.
That is when they got away from cable driven speedos which made it possible

and then hey had to have multiple versions of TCU ecu software for various diff ratios or even tire sizes... got to be a really big hassle.

Going to the diff cost less and worked better.

[rockrod]

The tone ring for the speed sensor is on the output shaft inside the diff.

http://i99.photobucket.com/albums/l287/Bin_jammin/DSCN0843.jpg

You can see it on the right side inside.

yes that's what I was looking for! The tone ring spins at carrier speed so that would mean that whatever the actual ring and pinion ratio is, the carrier is still going to send the true ground speed to the speedometer.

Cool. Thanks for that pic!


if you want to swap for the getrag, don;t forget you need everything that bolts to the trans too.
xmember drivehaft and guibo, shifter linkage all from the same e34 zf donor car.

they only came on m50 cars from 9.90? till 7/92...

I read your thread and the other from the guy with the white touring... and was able to figure out all the parts that are needed. I have a ZF in the works from a '95 M3. Like you mentioned, I will need the rest of the parts (M3 shifter, and guibo, driveshaft and the elusive '91/early '92 E34 5spd crossmember). I might be able to fab up a crossmember if I can't find one. Anyone care to share a photo of the two versions (ZF and getragic) side by side? I thought I read that one can be used from a 6 spd 540i. Is this correct?

Sadly I did change the fluid and put synthetic atf in there and drove it last nigth and to work today. It's a little better, but I think 1st gear is toast. Anything over 2 mph when trying to shift into 1st results in lots of complaining from the gearbox. I think the damage has been done. At least the ZF swap will set me up for bigger power later on down the road.

[4500 RPM]

A few notes:
As said, you have the most desireable year for the 525i, and manuals are hard-to-find. Out of curiosity what is the color combo?

Put the right gear oil in STAT...I have Redline MTL and it's okay. My trans has weak 2nd gear synchros...

Swap over the door...you'll want to save the plastic painted piece at the door bottom...they are expensive new and fragile.

If you're going to chip it, look for a Turner Motorsports chip. First you need to know the build date of the car (driver's door jamb). '1/'95 and later has EWS-II and will need a different chip. You can disable EWS-II (like a friend did on mine) and run the '93-12/94 chip but you'll need to find where to do it.

All E34 bumpers will work...find a used one. If you want to spend money there are lip spoilers available.

[David325e]

Save your old door for the few hundo worth of parts in/one it.

[rockrod]

yes, I will save the old door shell. I am going to have to swap everything over from the damaged door.

it is oxford greed metallic with the dove interior. It still looks pretty good on the inside and cleans up nicely. It came with the premium package which I guess includes the sunroof (which works perfectly) and some other nacks that I can't really determine. It's cool because the original window sticker was in the owner's manual book so I can go back and see what the car came with, and how much it cost. It was pretty pricey in those days (~$40k msrp).

It doesn't have the cold weather package since it was bought in Georgia. I may have to address that issue and look for a set of heated seats.

I was looking at the door last night and trying to figure out how it comes apart. Any tips on that one? the exterior moulding pieces need to be swapped over and for the life of me, I don't see what holds them on.

[David325e]

I think the exterior molding is clips- one time clips - that are the cheapest thing on the dealer.

Do you have a tan interior or actually dove(grey)? I haven't seen green/dove, thats bound to look pretty cool. Sunroof was an E34 std IIRC, what else is on the option sheet and we can clue you in.

[neockder]

dodge Full size pickups have had it in the diff for at least the last 16 years.

trans tailshaft pick was really common until electronic controls, abs, etc came along.
That is when they got away from cable driven speedos which made it possible

and then hey had to have multiple versions of TCU ecu software for various diff ratios or even tire sizes... got to be a really big hassle.

Going to the diff cost less and worked better.

Well we all know that dodge was ahead of its game in regards to some arenas, stock suspensions, reverse thread lugs(chevy too?), being others...

... brakes, caliper mounting brackets, and steering arms(their knuckles are garbage) were huge weaknesses of theirs - oh, and overall body design.


Jeep speedos have always been in the tranny - at least for the 16 I've owned. Even with abs and electronic control - into the 2000's at least. Not sure about Daimler Jeeps - that could be a different story.

P.S. Dodge didn't make their own diffs (like most corp car companies for that matter).

[rockrod]

If you're going to chip it, look for a Turner Motorsports chip. First you need to know the build date of the car (driver's door jamb). '1/'95 and later has EWS-II and will need a different chip. You can disable EWS-II (like a friend did on mine) and run the '93-12/94 chip but you'll need to find where to do it.



build date is 5/95 so it appears this car has the EWS-II (which I assume is some sort of traction control. Not sure why, it's not a powerhouse...yet). Is this car OBD1 or OBD2? I don't see the standard OBD2 connector anywhere.


I think the exterior molding is clips- one time clips - that are the cheapest thing on the dealer.

Do you have a tan interior or actually dove(grey)? I haven't seen green/dove, thats bound to look pretty cool. Sunroof was an E34 std IIRC, what else is on the option sheet and we can clue you in.

the sticker lists the interior as 'Silver Lth/Wood' which looks a lot like the so called 'dove grey' I have seen on ebay interior parts. I think there is supposed to be an additional sticker that breaks down the Premium Package listing. It just says 'Premium Package' listed under the MSRP price and the package priced at $3450.

the serial # is WBAHD5327SGB38890. This must be the VIN since googling it pulls up the car in Carfax. Is there any way to pull the options from the VIN?

edit: it also has the dealer installed remote keyless entry system and 6 disc CD changer too.

[DOC540I]

good luck and welcome

[Binjammin]

build date is 5/95 so it appears this car has the EWS-II (which I assume is some sort of traction control. Not sure why, it's not a powerhouse...yet). Is this car OBD1 or OBD2? I don't see the standard OBD2 connector anywhere.



the sticker lists the interior as 'Silver Lth/Wood' which looks a lot like the so called 'dove grey' I have seen on ebay interior parts. I think there is supposed to be an additional sticker that breaks down the Premium Package listing. It just says 'Premium Package' listed under the MSRP price and the package priced at $3450.

the serial # is WBAHD5327SGB38890. This must be the VIN since googling it pulls up the car in Carfax. Is there any way to pull the options from the VIN?

edit: it also has the dealer installed remote keyless entry system and 6 disc CD changer too.

EWS is Electronic Watchdog System. Basically anti-theft. ASC is traction control.

OBD1. Knock yourself out on mods :D OBDII Wasn't mandatory until 96+

Your interior is silver. Looks kinda like dove, I can't wait to see pics of the car. Is your sunroof metal or glass?

There's a thread around here somewhere with someone that will decode your VIN for you. It's not in the e34 section, you'll have to poke around.

[rockrod]

here's the coolness:

scored the door, a bumper, and a wheel for $300 total. Not bad dealins' today. I have to go back with the dodge to pick up the parts tomorrow- I could NOT get that fuggin door to fit in the trunk and I need the back seat space to pick up the kiddo.

I did some searching on the EWS system- not sure why I thought that stood for Electronic Wheel Slip...or something (must get head out of VW land). I can see that it has the ASC dash indicator, but I don't think the car has it.

So silver interior it is. Still looks nice though. I will get some pics up on photobucket soon- some before and after to show current condition and then the aftermath.

I REALLY appreciate everyone's help. Thanks a ton. I am certain there will be more questions when I start moving to the mods. Chip first, then suspension.



OBD1. Knock yourself out on mods :D OBDII Wasn't mandatory until 96+


:buttrock

[4500 RPM]

ASC cars had a switch near the shifter area...you'll know if you had it, total afterthought as far as design goes.

[David325e]

ASC cars had a switch near the shifter area...you'll know if you had it, total afterthought as far as design goes.

Haha I had never realized that, but yea. Its not like a slush driver will have his hand down by the selector when he needs to press the switch. And in U.S. cars they could have put it beside the foglight switch.

[rockrod]

BTT, I guess I should post some pics of the car.

http://i291.photobucket.com/albums/ll315/coreydaspit/BMW/DSC_0024.jpg

http://i291.photobucket.com/albums/ll315/coreydaspit/BMW/DSC_0025.jpg

http://i291.photobucket.com/albums/ll315/coreydaspit/BMW/DSC_0034.jpg

Nice damage to the front...

http://i291.photobucket.com/albums/ll315/coreydaspit/BMW/DSC_0028.jpg

the damaged door

http://i291.photobucket.com/albums/ll315/coreydaspit/BMW/DSC_0026.jpg

The replacement door. It's not off a 525i so the moulding is different. I will have to swap over the M-Tech parts.

http://i291.photobucket.com/albums/ll315/coreydaspit/BMW/DSC_0027.jpg

And the rockcrawler...:eek:

http://i291.photobucket.com/albums/ll315/coreydaspit/PB230117.jpg

[Ramo5er]

You scored a very nice car man. Beautiful interior, I wish I had that color in my car. And that jeep looks sick! I'm getting ready to put lockers in my Toyota, hope to be able to do that some day.

[rockrod]

Thanks! It really is a nice looking car.

parts update:

I found the trans support for the ZF swap and a replacement pass side epsiloidal fog light to replace the missing one. I also have a replacement bumper, but since it's from a 530i, it is not painted green all the way to the bottom. I also have to swap the M-tech trim pieces over from the damage door to the replacement door.

Still need a 91 e34 5speed drive shaft and an M3 shifter (thinking just going with a short shifter to solve this problem).

FWIW, the redline did not fix the problem in the getrag.

[4500 RPM]

See if you can fit a UUC Evo3 shifter into your budget

The DS could also come from a '92

[flyeryan]

Hey Rockrod, I'm in Littleton. Good to know of another E34 enthusiast close. All my friends have E30s, but I have to admit I do feel a little superior ;)

If you need some help with the bumper or door, drop me a line. I have a decent garage and tool collection and always enjoy working on BMWs. Maybe we could swap BMW labor for Jeep knowledge. I need to do some stuff to my XJ.

BTW, changing out the bumper is really easy, and the door can't be that much harder.

[rockrod]

Hey Rockrod, I'm in Littleton. Good to know of another E34 enthusiast close. All my friends have E30s, but I have to admit I do feel a little superior ;)

If you need some help with the bumper or door, drop me a line. I have a decent garage and tool collection and always enjoy working on BMWs. Maybe we could swap BMW labor for Jeep knowledge. I need to do some stuff to my XJ.

BTW, changing out the bumper is really easy, and the door can't be that much harder.

I might have to take you up on that.

(and lust after those wheels).

[rockrod]

another update:

ordered and installed a TMS/Conforti chip tonight. Had a small issue and the car would start on the first try at installing. It would turn over a few times and then just stop. pulled the DME, installed the stock chip and car started fine. Reinstalled the TMS chip and the car started and ran after that. Anyone else have this issue?

Drove the car around a little but didn't really wail on it since it still has 89 octane in it. Will have to refuel with premium once I run the rest of this tank out. It seemed a little smoother/stronger but it wasn't like a huge 'oh wow!' increase. I guess I am too used to just pushing the little button on the tuner box for my cummins and getting 60 ft/lb jumps in power with each step (up to 900 ft/lbs max). The cummins would spank this car in any sort of stop light race. 5th gear in the cummins is like 2nd in the 525i.

also did the Hella 9005 light upgrade. That made a HUGE difference in light output. Those stock bulbs are garbage. had to modify the little tangs (removed with rotozip file) and they plugged right in with a little shimming from the old O rings.

Next on the list? Replace the front bumper. Replacement fog light housing arrived today but I ordered the wrong plastic rivets to attach the cover to the aluminum piece. Found a replacement tow hook cover so I should be able to get this done next week.

Later on I plan to install an M3 shifter and new linkage parts and possibly a weighted knob. The M3 ZF310 will be here tomorrow. I found the correct E34 ZF crossmember, but still need a new guibo and driveshaft from a '91 or '92 model car. Ebay is a wonderfull source for parts.

[rockrod]

M3 shifter installed and replaced all the little parts associated with the linkage. Nice and tight now and short throw to boot! I also managed to punch myself in the cheek while removing the stock shifter from the carrier. that was a brilliant move.

bumper gets done this weekend.

[me78569]

hey man if you are up to it there is a meet in Denver with quite a few people saturday starting at like 11 then a drive. If you and one of your cars are up to it you should come. http://forums.bimmerforums.com/forum/showthread.php?t=1203306 it would be nice to meet some people within the general region.

[rockrod]

another update: got the front bumper cover swapped out with a donor from a '95 530i- this is the same car the replacement door came from. the color is a good match, but the lower portion of the cover is not green like the original bumper. It is black. Not a big deal because the color of the car is dark enough so that it doesn't stand out too much.

next comes the door R&R and then the transmission swap.