Centering steering wheel?

[Kashmirbeige525]

Replaced the drag link which fixed my loud clunk and steering vauge-ness. Steering used to be about 3 degrees off to the right, which was OK and acceptable. But now it is 10 degrees or more to the right. Any way to straighten it out without an alignment?
I searched.

[TheStigg]

It's not that hard to ballpark the alignment, BMW's are somewhat forgiving and toe-in/toe-out is the only adjustment unless there is frame damage or bent control arms, etc.

Disclaimer: This is a very crude method, intended only to get the car driveable long enough to take it in for a real alignment.

1. Raise each front wheel off the ground and spray a stripe with a light colored paint all the way around at about the middle of the tread. Score a line all around with a nail into the paint.

2. Lower the wheels onto short lengths (12-18") of 2x10's or 2x12's, with 3 pieces of pipe (3/4" or 1") spaced a few inches apart, oriented parallel to length of the car. This will let the wheels squat out sideways when you bounce the front a few times to get the suspension weighted.
Use 2 planks at each wheel if needed to allow enough room to crawl underneath.

3. Rig a crude "caliper" with a 2x4 long enough to span the width of the wheels, with 2 shorter uprights on the ends, about 15" high. Pound a nail thru each of the uprights at about the location where the scribed lines are.

4. The alignment is close enough with about -1/16" to -1/8" toe-in.

5. The adjustment is made by diddling with the outer tie rods. Note that the tie rods have a right-hand and left-hand threaded end. Loosen the clamps enough to let the tie rods twist with slight pressure with a pipe wrench. "Read" the threads to determine which direction lengthens or shortens the tie rods. Adjust them 1/4-1/2 turn for starts, equal on both sides. To increase toe-in, lenghten them. To decrease toe-in, shorten them. Use the "caliper" to measure the distance of the scribed lines near the 3 o'clock and 9 o'clock positions on the wheels. When it's set, the front scribe will be about 1/16"-1/8" narrower than the rear scribe. Do this with the wheels as straight forward as you can estimate, rock the steering wheel side to side slightly, bounce the front end (load the token 150 lbs of weight in the driver's seat if you want) and adjust/measure again as required. Tighten the clamps when done.

6. To correct the cocked steering wheel, loosen the clamps and lengthen the left tie rod and shorten the right tie rod to rotate the steering wheel spokes counter-clockwise. It will take a few iterations. Go light with the turns, 1/4 rotation of the tie rod will move the spokes 1/2" to 1" or so.

7. Resist the temptation to remove the steering wheel and rotate it in the splines, that will put the sector in the steering gear box off center.