View Full Version : Need online Metric hardware source...for apparently "odd" size...
Mpowered02
11-08-2008, 05:30 PM
Hey All,
I'm looking for some metric hardware for my car but NO ONE seems to have the size I need. It's for the cylinder head intake manifold mounting bolts (usually has studs mounted there).
Anyway, what i'm looking for is M7 x 1.25 x 40mm or 45mm Socket Cap Screws (allen drive). Did a google search and haven't come up with anything. Most places don't even have 7mm screws listed...they jump from 6mm to 8mm....especially in socket cap screws. The places that do have anything in 7mm only have 7mm x 1.0 thread pitch. I need 1.25 thread pitch. Anyone have a good online source for Metric hardware that has EVERYTHING since this is apparently a really odd size? :help
erobinson
11-08-2008, 06:23 PM
Hey All,
I'm looking for some metric hardware for my car but NO ONE seems to have the size I need. It's for the cylinder head intake manifold mounting bolts (usually has studs mounted there).
Anyway, what i'm looking for is M7 x 1.25 x 40mm or 45mm Socket Cap Screws (allen drive). Did a google search and haven't come up with anything. Most places don't even have 7mm screws listed...they jump from 6mm to 8mm....especially in socket cap screws. The places that do have anything in 7mm only have 7mm x 1.0 thread pitch. I need 1.25 thread pitch. Anyone have a good online source for Metric hardware that has EVERYTHING since this is apparently a really odd size? :help
I know you've probably already checked... but are you positive you have the correct pitch/diameter based on a thread gauge? That is a very oddball size and even mcmaster-carr doesn't have it in any type of fastener, let alone socket-cap.
What are you trying to accomplish here? Use a bolt instead of a stud? Just wondering if there is an easier way to whatever it is... you're trying to do.
Stück
11-08-2008, 06:50 PM
Dirt cheap, but the proper part from your local dealer. If they don't stock it then can have it ordered and in stock in 1-2 days.
PixMan
11-08-2008, 06:53 PM
An M8 x 1.25 is somewhat common, M7 are rare. Are you absolutely certain it's an M7 O.D.? If you have one, measure it, it should measure somewhere around 6.85mm (or .269") if it is a 7mm.
If that's what it really is, you may have to go to the manufacturer.
Mpowered02
11-08-2008, 09:58 PM
Thanks for the replies guys.
Yes...I'm sure of the size. The stock studs measure 6.83mm on my calipers. Checked thread pitch with a gauge and it indeed is 1.25...
And No, Stuck...can't use the stock hardware from the dealership. The stock studs won't work and are too long.
What's it for? Well, I'm CAD designing an adapter plate to fit the euro ITB's from an S50B32 onto my S52 head. Gotta ditch the studs in the head and use 7mm x 1.25 Screws (that will be recessed into the adapter plate) to mount the adapter plate to the head. The outer face of the adapter will use the studs to mount the ITB's.
And i'm not gonna argue with anyone about if it's worth it or not to put ITB's on a US engine. I'll let you know after I get mine done since most of the naysaying comes from people that have never done it. Not looking for HP really, but throttle response should be improved from having the TB's much closer to the intake valves, etc.
Anyway, guess i'll keep looking. Someone's gotta have them since i've seen pics of a car in the UK that had a similar setup...
Would cutting down the stud so that it is short enough work?
Looks like the length of the exhaust stud is shorter than the intake stud, 42mm vs. 55mm
Or just retap it to a 8mm hole
Mpowered02
11-08-2008, 10:19 PM
Would cutting down the stud so that it is short enough work?
Looks like the length of the exhaust stud is shorter than the intake stud, 42mm vs. 55mm
Thought about using shorter studs, but the problem there is that the clearance between some of the holes in the 2 different bolt patterns is very tight. Having the 11mm nut on top of the studs along with the diameter of the socket needed to tighten the nuts would definitely interfere with the studs for the throttle bodies. That's why I was thinking of using cap screws. Smaller head and the tool used to install and tighten them (Allen/hex drive) doesn't need space around the head...
retap to 8mm and countersink the adapter plate so the allan head bolts sit flush with surface.
PixMan
11-08-2008, 10:28 PM
I've been looking around for you and there is NOTHING, as you have already discovered. There are a number of shops doing custom cold-header work, but you would have to deal with minimum orders, upwards of $250 for a run of 100 pieces or more. (And probably 4-6 week or longer for delivery.)
As HoJo has suggested, if there is room your best option will be to drill and re-tap to M8 x 1.25. If you need to do that, I'll give you good advice on drill size and choice of tap. I recommend roll-form taps for this application.
BTW, I can do machine work of this type.
Mpowered02
11-09-2008, 10:53 AM
Thanks for the replies guys. Drilling and retapping to 8mm x 1.25 will be a last resort kinda step. I'll only do that if I REALLY have to cuz I really don't want to permanently alter the cylinder head to where I can't convert back to the stock configuration at a later date if needed. Gonna keep searching. Thanks again...
Jesuscookies
11-09-2008, 12:00 PM
Check out metric specalities in Burbank CA. If they don't have it, they will make it. I have used them many time for odd bolts sizes on my old RX2
Stück
11-09-2008, 12:03 PM
Have you tried http://www.mcmaster.com/
I order hard to find crap from them every now and then. If they don't have it no one will.
PixMan
11-09-2008, 01:33 PM
Have you tried http://www.mcmaster.com/
I order hard to find crap from them every now and then. If they don't have it no one will.
Trust me, some of the sources I have checked have far more oddball hardware than McMaster-Carr, and they don't have what he needs either.
I really think he's going to have something custom made. Many screw machine shops can make studs or screws, but few can make strong socket-head cap screws. That requires a cold-header machine. This is going to be expensive, long lead time, and have big minimum quantities.
erobinson
11-09-2008, 01:37 PM
retap to 8mm and countersink the adapter plate so the allan head bolts sit flush with surface.
That was going to my be next suggestion.
bluemoon2222
11-09-2008, 01:43 PM
Get a custom bolt made from a blank, CNC thread milling. if you really are in a bind and cant find someone with that capability I can help, PM me.
Other than that you should probabaly tap out the head to a more available m8.
Mpowered02
11-09-2008, 09:43 PM
Thanks for the replies everyone. Wow, who knew that finding the hardware for this project would be such a problem? Gonna contact some of those companies to see if they can make anything *crossing fingers*.
The lame part is, my CAD design for the adapter is about 99% done. Just need to figure out what hardware I am gonna use so I can adjust the dimensions for it. I thought taking exact measurements of everything and designing the part was gonna be the hard part. Never thought the hardware would be...
Anyway, thanks again for the assistance everyone...
Mpowered02
11-15-2008, 08:54 PM
Thanks again for the ideas everyone. Here's a bit of an update:
Well, the size of socket cap screws I was looking for are definitely NO WHERE to be found. I don't want to retap the head to M8x1.25, so I have actually decided to change the CAD design for the adapter itself. I originally was trying to get the adapter done in 1 CNC'd piece but because of the hardware issue and some other hole interference issues between the head hole pattern and the ITB hole pattern it's looking like i'm gonna have to go with a 2-piece design instead. It'll be designed to use the stock studs (shortened to suit) and stock bolts to hold the adapter to the head. I just figured it was much easier for me to just change my design rather than retap the head or try to get someone to custom make socket cap screws. Anyway, thanks again everyone for the suggestions!
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