2007 - 335xi - Manual Gear Shifting

[mniemiec]

I bought a 2007 manual 335xi about a month ago. Seems that no matter how smooth I try to change the gear from 1st to 2nd while driving around town it feels a little rough. When getting on the highway it's fine, just driving aroung town slowly from 0-25mph.

Does anyone else have any issues with the 335xi manual with not so smooth gear shifts?

[Pitch Black]

I've had speed sensitive passengers look at me sideways because of this. It seems no matter how much i feather the clutch it will still snap your neck.

[Babagnush]

If you've been driving manuals for a while(non bmw) then it's more than likely the presence of a CDV(clutch delay valve). I was aware of it when I got my car so I deleted it ASAP. You can install a modified CDV. They're only 25 bucks from most places and the install is basic and just requires bleeding of the system when finshed. 20 minute job.

[TeaRoy]

I have found the smoothest (though not PERFECTLY smooth) range is to rev it over 3k - which I figure you're doing when getting on the highway. It's a little loud for neighborhoods, but who cares. That, or start in First to JUST get it rolling - like 500 RPM's...then coast and shift to second - sort of like rolling a stop sign in second - smooth smooth smooth.

[rextt]

same problem here

[BavarianBullet]

Clutch Delay Valve. Why someone would put such an abomination in "the ultimate driving machine" defies explanation.

You buy a modified one or just remove yours and put it on a shelf and let it collect dust. There is no problem in removing it and just reconnecting the two ends of the clutch line- some people tend to believe that the modified one somehow buys them plausible deniability if the dealer catches them without one. I don't subscribe to that idea so I just took mine out.

It's a night an day difference without it.

Be forewarned- ideally you are supposed to bleed the clutch hydraulic line of air after opening it when removing the CDV. This is very difficult to do on a 335XI as the X transmissions is different and there's a driveshaft in the way. The bleeder screw is also *plastic* and easy to break/strip. I've not done one on a 335i but I imagine it must be a lot easier as most people make it sound trivial but it's not easy on the XI.

The car must be jacked up and the valve removed from under the car. The clutch doesn't lose much fluid but buying a spare bottle would be a good idea.

BB

[E92!Dreier]

http://www.zeckhausen.com/CDV.htm

-- all the info you need.

Removing or otherwise altering your CDV will severely limit your warranty if you are caught. The device is meant to prvent driveline shock to the 1/2 size BMW driveshafts that they sue to save weight. Good luck, especially if you have a tranny problem. My dealer LOVES checking to see if this has been removed, because it helps them cover their own ass.

[BMW NA]

I bought a 2007 manual 335xi about a month ago. Seems that no matter how smooth I try to change the gear from 1st to 2nd while driving around town it feels a little rough. When getting on the highway it's fine, just driving aroung town slowly from 0-25mph.

Does anyone else have any issues with the 335xi manual with not so smooth gear shifts?

I'm with BMW of North America, LLC. I've passed this message on to a BMW NA Customer Relations Representative who will be in touch with you soon.

[ModBargains]

I've never had this issue with any stick car that I've driven, if anything its just the clutch trying to catch on when you are feathering it.

[nauticabri]

I have the exact same issue, have had it since I've owneed the car (bout 12 months) I've just learned to live with it, but it can be quite annoying sometimes. :mad It is my only real complaint about the car.

[mniemiec]

Thanks for the feedback. I guess I will just have to learn to live with it. I am going to try the 1st to 500-1000rpms and rolling into 2nd gear to see if it helps.

[sfrolich]

I just got a 335i 6mt just about a month ago and I have the same problem. What happens is that the 6sp has such a close gear ratio that when you shift casually the rpms between the 1 to 2 shift drop below where the rpms should be (for example when engaging the clutch for 2nd the rpms jump from say 1000 to 1500 to catch up to the transmission speed).

What I've started doing is shifting faster between 1st and 2nd and it has minimized the shock.

[skl48]

Hated that on our previous E39 540i sport as well. My wife's 335i convertible seems to act the same- must be the CDV. Tempted to remove it but we're leasing the cars so don't know if it's worth it.

Anyone know if there is a separate fluid container for the clutch system or does it piggyback on the brake system? I've got a Motiv pressure bleeder I could use if I do remove it.

Also, if you removed it would it affect the "hill-holder" feature? Didn't realize BMW had that- discovered it by accident the first time I was on a hill!

[Babagnush]

Yes the system piggybacks the brake sytem. No it doesn't effect the hill holder. Don't sweat the whole lease thing either.

[E92!Dreier]

Don't sweat the whole lease thing either.


?

[LuvMyE92]

Don't sweat the lease thing. The dealer that you turn the car into will not care and will never know, and the next owner of the car (although probably also ignorant of what you did) will thank you.

It's an easy, inexpensive fix. DO IT.

[StigNV]

I find that I sometimes lurch the car in first on rolling starts, you know, the rolling to the stop light, go to first and the light turns green on you scenario. I do great from a full stop though, and the 3 grand or higher works for the shift, (Temp limited on the revs for me.)
If it's everyday driving and you lurch the car, just go to second and let the revs build up gradually. It wont throw you in the seat on acceleration, for sure. This is my fubar maneuver, and keeps the sideways looks and trash talking to a minimum.