fuel pump check valve replacement

[jasonseck]

i'm having what seems to be the common problem of a bad check valve which causes my 6er to delay starting when she's warm. i also get the occasional fuel smell.

i've read about people installing a check valve in the fuel line, rather than replacing the fuel pump.

does anyone have the part number or source for a check valve that will be the proper fit?

thanks,
jason

[Taylor Marshall]

What serves as a fuel line check valve on our cars is the Fuel Pressure Regulator which you'll find on the return end (front) of the fuel rail. It also serves as a regulator driven by manifold pressure and a correctly functioning one is critical for making sure the appropriate fuel presure is available to your engine through the entire load range. A misfunctioning one allowing fuel to drain out of the rail when the engine is off will certainly cause the vapour lock problem you seem to have when hot. If you are not suffering other fuel supply problems when driving then I don't think your fuel pump is the problem.
Someone correct me if I am wrong but I don't know of any other check valve other than the FPR on either the intake or drain lines. The FPR is not expensive and you can get it from Steve Haygood.


Extract from RealOem.com
PRESSURE REGULATOR3,0BAR1up to 06/1987

P/N 13531722040

[Taylor Marshall]

ah, sorry sorry ... I was thinking about in line check valves and not the fuel pump check valve.....didn't have my brain engaged ! The P/N for the fuel pump check valve is 16 14 9 068 988 and you can get it from Haygood and maybe even from the dealer. It costs about 3 or 4 bucks only.

[BrickSykes]

Taylor, Hi! My '85 635CSi has been cranking an awful long time before it catches, and I was suspecting the 'check valve.' Well, I pulled the pump and sender out today for the first time ever, and my pump doesn't have a check valve! I've seen photos on eBay and elsewhere that show a check valve, which I think is a very good idea even with the FPR as the first line of preventing drain-back. Not only do I have no check valve, the main thing wrong was the ground strap that grounds the entire Pump was broken in two right at the pump connection! No wonder she was 'cranking' for awhile! So now I need a pump, hopefully with a check valve, but if the pumps without it work okay I could go that way, too. How do I get in touch with Haywood? My parts books say that BMW used several different configurations of 'Transfer Pumps', but I'm wondering if the pumps themselves are the same and the piping arrangement is just different?

Brick

[GWL]

Go here and you can get email also http://www.stevehaygood.com/

[CW6er]

It's the main pump in the wheel well that has the check valve, you're talking about replacing the in-tank transfer pump aren't you?

[jasonseck]

well, i went ahead and replaced my fuel pressure regulator - seemed like the right thing to do given the sluggish response i was getting when the car got hot.

i'm noticing an immediate change, so the FPR must have been at least part of the problem.

i have two flat, round, metal things connected to my fuel lines. one is in the return line coming out of the FPR and the other is in the line leading into the fuel rail.

they are both marker Wahler - 1286362.

anybody know what these are?

thanks,
jason

[CW6er]

i have two flat, round, metal things connected to my fuel lines. one is in the return line coming out of the FPR and the other is in the line leading into the fuel rail.

they are both marker Wahler - 1286362.

anybody know what these are?

thanks,
jason


Look like this (#13)? If it is hollow it is a "pulse dampener", other wise it is the "check valve" you are talking about.

http://static.bmwfans.info/images/epc/MTkyMl9w.png (http://bmwfans.info/original/E24/Cou/635CSi-M30/ECE/L/A/1984/09/mg-13/ill-13_0271/)