View Full Version : help! Electrical issues and i'm not home!
Nik1703
07-04-2008, 12:00 AM
Okay, so i'm at a friends house about 40 miles away from my house, and on the drive over here i was going about eighty MPH. i stepped on it to pass a slow car (well, a car obeying the speed limit) and i noticed ALL of my gauges drop down to zero and then back up again (and the car stalled a bit).
this happened a few times, and on the third time.. the fuse on my radio blew (wtf?)
EDIT:
so i have determined that the cause of the problem is radio related. after the radio fuse blew, the problem of the gauges going hay-wire and the stalling went away.
I recently installed a new headunit because my stock one kept blowing fuses (in the fuse box, the 15amp fuse.) now that i've installed the new one, it's causing some sort of electrical issue (described above.)
anybody have advice on this?
Nik1703
07-04-2008, 01:55 AM
anyone?!
Nik1703
07-04-2008, 03:37 AM
need help guys
Nik1703
07-04-2008, 12:52 PM
!!!!
ParadigmGuy
07-04-2008, 03:15 PM
Remove the stereo and enjoy the sounds of your engine, problem solved.
BMW525i
07-04-2008, 03:17 PM
looks like your going to be without any tunes for a while, until you figure out whats going on.
Nik1703
07-04-2008, 03:19 PM
Remove the stereo and enjoy the sounds of your engine, problem solved.
i MUST have music. can not drive without music.
JETninja
07-04-2008, 03:20 PM
Ever check out out your trunk harness? Huge thread in the E36 forum, found 6 exposed wires in mine, and two broken ones when I cut it opn in '06.
Nik1703
07-04-2008, 03:25 PM
Ever check out out your trunk harness? Huge thread in the E36 forum, found 6 exposed wires in mine, and two broken ones when I cut it opn in '06.
do you mean check the amplifier in the trunk? is that where the harness is?(I have an HK sound system)
next month im going to be putting a sub/amp/cap setup in and i'm going to bypass the stock amp.
JETninja
07-04-2008, 03:32 PM
No, open trunk....l/h (drivers side) hinge you'll see a rubber sheathed harness. You have to cut it open carefully and inspect/repair wires inside. It has been know to cause all sorts of electrical problems all over the car. Like I said, huge thread in the E36 forum. A new harness it like $80 IIRC.
Nik1703
07-04-2008, 03:35 PM
No, open trunk....l/h (drivers side) hinge you'll see a rubber sheathed harness. You have to cut it open carefully and inspect/repair wires inside. It has been know to cause all sorts of electrical problems all over the car. Like I said, huge thread in the E36 forum. A new harness it like $80 IIRC.
sweet, thanks. i will check that.
so. lets say that isnt the problem, next thing i would check would be for shorts in the stock amp?
JETninja
07-04-2008, 03:58 PM
No idea, I have Zero stock audio stuff......
Brent 930
07-04-2008, 04:10 PM
More than likely if has something to do with the radio harness wires from what you mentioned so far. I would physically inspect each connection to the head unit. Look for any exposed wires where they could be touching each other or to ground. In fact, I would inspect any and all connections made in the entire stereo system that are not in stock form.
If you find any exposed wires do yourself a favor and one, solder the connection instead of twisting the wires together, and two, before solding them together, use heat shrink to cover them. Electrical tape really does suck for this application, but is good for short term only. That is, if you want to make sure you won't be dealing with that crap again. Oh, and don't forget to replace the fuse.
Report back after you check this out, thanks.
Jrdeamicis
07-04-2008, 04:30 PM
You must have music?
You must start doing better electrical work. Problem solved.
Nik1703
07-04-2008, 06:12 PM
More than likely if has something to do with the radio harness wires from what you mentioned so far. I would physically inspect each connection to the head unit. Look for any exposed wires where they could be touching each other or to ground. In fact, I would inspect any and all connections made in the entire stereo system that are not in stock form.
If you find any exposed wires do yourself a favor and one, solder the connection instead of twisting the wires together, and two, before solding them together, use heat shrink to cover them. Electrical tape really does suck for this application, but is good for short term only. That is, if you want to make sure you won't be dealing with that crap again. Oh, and don't forget to replace the fuse.
Report back after you check this out, thanks.
The problem was pre-existing to me installing the new headunit. I thought replacing the headunit would fix the problem, apparently not. So i'm assuming it's probably the harness in the trunk or the stock amp in the trunk.
My wiring job is good in the front, there aren't any exposed wires. I've been doing my own car audio for years. Good tips though, i will double check the wiring on the headunit and then move to the trunk
You must have music?
You must start doing better electrical work. Problem solved.
haha, this time i can say it wasn't something i screwed up.
Brent 930
07-04-2008, 07:42 PM
Nik, also consider if you're not the first owner of the car anything is possible. That is, be open it investigating any and all wiring associated with the stereo system.
Goodluck
Nik1703
07-04-2008, 08:54 PM
Nik, also consider if you're not the first owner of the car anything is possible. That is, be open it investigating any and all wiring associated with the stereo system.
Goodluck
true. i am the third owner. all stereo equipment was stock when i got the car, had never been tampered with. but yeah - i'll still need to take that in to consideration.
STAGGERED M3
07-05-2008, 04:24 PM
Electrical = fire so make sure you look good..... Take your time and dont over look anything!
Nik1703
07-06-2008, 10:18 PM
Here are the pictures i just took of the AMP area in the trunk, everything looks good. I also checked everything behind the headunit, everything is good. why on earth am i blowing radio fuses??
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v205/bigfoot310/DSC00559.jpg
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v205/bigfoot310/DSC00558.jpg
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v205/bigfoot310/DSC00556.jpg
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v205/bigfoot310/DSC00555.jpg
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v205/bigfoot310/DSC00552.jpg
Brent 930
07-07-2008, 12:57 AM
It's possible the amp is going bad. Why don't you disconnect the amp but have the radio on with the volume down and see if the fuse blows. I'm assuming it doesn't take long for the fuse to blow? If it does immediately then that's a different scenario.
You need to section off the problem so you can isolate it to something.
Exactly what fuse # is blowing?
BugsB
07-07-2008, 01:09 AM
3 reasons for fuses to blow,
1. Fuse is to small
2. Amp is dying
3. Short in the power wire somewhere
Usually it's 1 or 2 however in this case 1 is non existing so look at the amp. I really doubt it's a short as shorted wires are pretty rare.
Julz69
07-07-2008, 10:05 AM
Look at the wiring harness going up to the trunk LID along the left side of the trunk. they rub together and break from all the bending from opening and closing the trunk. Cut open the casing around the group of wires and check each wire. I did this and found alot of wires were chaffed so I re-wrapped each one individually and everything is fine.
But I never had your problem but it can be related to that in some way and is easy to check.
JETninja
07-07-2008, 01:27 PM
Look at the wiring harness going up to the trunk LID along the left side of the trunk. they rub together and break from all the bending from opening and closing the trunk. Cut open the casing around the group of wires and check each wire. I did this and found alot of wires were chaffed so I re-wrapped each one individually and everything is fine.
But I never had your problem but it can be related to that in some way and is easy to check.
Ummm, thats what I told him up in Posts #8 & 10 above...lol.
Nik1703
07-07-2008, 07:06 PM
It's possible the amp is going bad. Why don't you disconnect the amp but have the radio on with the volume down and see if the fuse blows. I'm assuming it doesn't take long for the fuse to blow? If it does immediately then that's a different scenario.
You need to section off the problem so you can isolate it to something.
Exactly what fuse # is blowing?
I believe its fuse number 44? (or 46) it's the 15AMP radio fuse.
It blows randomly, but the gauges start jumping all up and down when i am at high speeds and step on the gas). Either way, its radio related. It did it again today, so i shut the radio off.
How do i know if the amp is going bad? anybody care to sell me one?
3 reasons for fuses to blow,
1. Fuse is to small
2. Amp is dying
3. Short in the power wire somewhere
Usually it's 1 or 2 however in this case 1 is non existing so look at the amp. I really doubt it's a short as shorted wires are pretty rare.
Fuse is the right size, been driving it for a year without any problems until now.
Ill have to check the amp, dont know how though.
Look at the wiring harness going up to the trunk LID along the left side of the trunk. they rub together and break from all the bending from opening and closing the trunk. Cut open the casing around the group of wires and check each wire. I did this and found alot of wires were chaffed so I re-wrapped each one individually and everything is fine.
But I never had your problem but it can be related to that in some way and is easy to check.
+1 i will check the wiring harness that leads up to the trunk lid. Do you have a pic about which one exactly? or can you point it out in the pictures i took?
Anybody know how i check if my amp is going bad? and if so, anyone have an extra HK amp they'd like to sell?
Brent 930
07-07-2008, 07:47 PM
Fuse #44 is for the glove compartment, radio, and wipers. #46 is for several other things including the intrument cluster you mentioned going hay wire. Are there any other fuses blown? Get a meter and ohm them all out so you know for sure. Disconnect the battery first. Anyhow, if its only radio related then something is drawing too much current. It could still be the amp. Let us know.
Nik1703
07-07-2008, 07:49 PM
Fuse #44 is for the glove compartment, radio, and wipers. #46 is for several other things including the intrument cluster you mentioned going hay wire. Are there any other fuses blown? Get a meter and ohm them all out so you know for sure. Disconnect the battery first. Anyhow, if its only radio related then something is drawing too much current. It could still be the amp. Let us know.
It's only the radio fuse that is blowing (#44.)
How do i determine if it is the amp?
Brent 930
07-07-2008, 08:00 PM
So you mentioned the radio was replaced, right? Can you just disconnect the amp connector, replace the fuse, and drive around for a few days to see if the fuse blows or not?
Nik1703
07-07-2008, 08:08 PM
So you mentioned the radio was replaced, right? Can you just disconnect the amp connector, replace the fuse, and drive around for a few days to see if the fuse blows or not?
Good idea, i should do that. which connector on the amp is the power connector?
Also this will cut out my rear speakers, right?
Brent 930
07-07-2008, 08:16 PM
Shorty after I got my car I pulled the whole system out and sold the amp. There should be a large connector I'm guessing. Pull it.
Brent 930
07-07-2008, 08:17 PM
If you don't see any botched up wires like the other forum member mentioned I would get another amp. They can be had for approx. $100 shipped.
Nik1703
07-07-2008, 08:25 PM
If you don't see any botched up wires like the other forum member mentioned I would get another amp. They can be had for approx. $100 shipped.
Im going to be adding two 12' subs as well as a large AMP and CAP to my system soon.
The rear trunk amp is only for the rear speakers, correct? So if i disconnect this amp i'm disabling the rear speakers?
100 bucks for that terrible 11 year old amp? I can get a 1500watt sony amp for 100 bucks that would blow that thing out of the water.
Brent 930
07-07-2008, 08:29 PM
The only thing you're blowing right now are 15amp fuses, LOL.
Looks like you're upgrading anyhow.
Nik1703
07-07-2008, 08:31 PM
The only thing you're blowing right now are 15amp fuses, LOL.
Looks like you're upgrading anyhow.
hahaha, true.
but yeah, when i put the new amp in, how difficult would it be to wire the rear speakers through the new amp that will power the subs? I would think the amp that powers the sub would be too powerful for the stock HK speakers in the back. so it would proably be best to replace the stock HK amp with another and have a separate amp for the subs.
which connector on the stock amp will disable it?
Brent 930
07-07-2008, 08:57 PM
I'm not much of a stereo guru. Not sure about which connector at this moment. I'm sure someone can chime in and help out.
Julz69
07-07-2008, 11:33 PM
Ummm, thats what I told him up in Posts #8 & 10 above...lol.
ya bud missed it
Read his post #10
JETninja
07-08-2008, 12:53 AM
+1 i will check the wiring harness that leads up to the trunk lid. Do you have a pic about which one exactly? or can you point it out in the pictures i took?
I'm pretty sure I didn't write in invisible ink! :rolleyes
Post #10
http://forums.bimmerforums.com/forum/showpost.php?p=13492001&postcount=10
It ain't rocket science, it's a long black thing wrapped to the HINGE! (drivers side)
Here's the HUGE thread about this very real problem. May not be your issue, but it's a good thing to get out of the way.....
http://forums.bimmerforums.com/forum/showthread.php?t=79896
Nik1703
07-08-2008, 02:38 AM
okay guys, think i have something serious going on here.
Ive had the radio off (but fuse replaced) driving around because i didnt want to blow it again until i disconnect the amp.
so, i redlined it in first, shifted hard to second off a light. as soon as i hit second.. chirped the tires, and all the gauges dropped to ZERO and all the lights flashed on the cluster. HOWEVER , there was no power loss and i kept pulling through second. i came to a stop and the gauges went back to normal like the car had just started up again. i had 1/2 a tank before this happened, but now it is reading EMPTY and wont go back up to normal.
what the hell?
Nik1703
07-08-2008, 02:44 AM
I'm pretty sure I didn't write in invisible ink! :rolleyes
Post #10
http://forums.bimmerforums.com/forum/showpost.php?p=13492001&postcount=10
It ain't rocket science, it's a long black thing wrapped to the HINGE! (drivers side)
Here's the HUGE thread about this very real problem. May not be your issue, but it's a good thing to get out of the way.....
http://forums.bimmerforums.com/forum/showthread.php?t=79896
wow thats serious, which trunk harness is he talking about? anybody have pics?
Brent 930
07-08-2008, 05:25 AM
So if fuse #44 is blown, does your cluster still illuminate? It should because that is related to fuse #46 which doesn't blow (haha).
Nik1703
07-08-2008, 06:30 PM
bump
JETninja
07-09-2008, 04:26 PM
wow thats serious, which trunk harness is he talking about? anybody have pics?
There is only ONE trunk harness. Go open your trunk, look at the L/H hinge, you'll see a rubber wrapped bundle. Eureka!!!! :rolleyes (why have I had to write this multiple times?) You do understand a "harness" means lots of wires, right?
Brent 930
07-10-2008, 11:00 AM
There is only ONE trunk harness. Go open your trunk, look at the L/H hinge, you'll see a rubber wrapped bundle. Eureka!!!! :rolleyes (why have I had to write this multiple times?) You do understand a "harness" means lots of wires, right?
He is looking for someone that knows exactly what the fix is. These types of problems require time and patience. After the bump it was apparent he was looking for the quick fix. LOL
Nik1703
07-10-2008, 04:04 PM
you guys, i can not for the life of me get that last connector out on the stock amp (the one farthest away in the picture)
anybody know how??? i really don't want to break it.
Xiphos
07-10-2008, 04:38 PM
you guys, i can not for the life of me get that last connector out on the stock amp (the one farthest away in the picture)
anybody know how??? i really don't want to break it.
Are you talking about the main wiring harness on the amp? I probably spent a good hour trying to get mine off.
Nik1703
07-10-2008, 07:31 PM
Are you talking about the main wiring harness on the amp? I probably spent a good hour trying to get mine off.
yes - that one. HOW do you get it off man?
Nik1703
07-12-2008, 12:36 AM
anyone?
Nik1703
07-14-2008, 06:20 PM
Okay so last night i disconnected the AMP and drove around with just the headunit on (no sound).
Once again, the gauges went haywire and dropped to zero, a few seconds after the radio (http://forums.bimmerforums.com/forum/showthread.php?p=13577419#) fuse blew and my gauges went back to normal (with exception of the gas gauge, i had to disconnect the battery to get that one to go back to normal.)
So i am stumped. the headunit is new and its wired properly, the amp isnt bad (it wasnt even connected.)
what can it be!!! jesus.
Xiphos
07-14-2008, 06:24 PM
Then take out the headunit and drive around with neither the amp or headunit.
Nik1703
07-14-2008, 06:26 PM
Then take out the headunit and drive around with neither the amp or headunit.
what else is connected to the radio fuse? Does that mean its something other then the radio?
Brent 930
07-14-2008, 06:45 PM
See post #25 again.
At this point it doesn't appear to be the radio at all. BUT, since you're able to replace the fuse each time that means you have a loose connection on that 12v line for fuse #44. If I were you I would trace back the 12v line to that head unit and make sure the connection is good and with good insulation. If anything else has been messed with that connects to power through fuse #44 check it out. Let us know.
Nik1703
07-14-2008, 06:55 PM
See post #25 again.
At this point it doesn't appear to be the radio at all. BUT, since you're able to replace the fuse each time that means you have a loose connection on that 12v line for fuse #44. If I were you I would trace back the 12v line to that head unit and make sure the connection is good and with good insulation. If anything else has been messed with that connects to power through fuse #44 check it out. Let us know.
I dont think it can be the wipers (never rains here, dont use them.) glove compartment is out of the question as well.
Where would i begin to trace the 12v line? underneath the fuse box? that will be a bear
Xiphos
07-14-2008, 06:57 PM
I dont think it can be the wipers (never rains here, dont use them.) glove compartment is out of the question as well.
Where would i begin to trace the 12v line? underneath the fuse box? that will be a bear
If you have a bear underneath your glove box, I think you have far bigger problems than just electrical...
Nik1703
07-14-2008, 07:04 PM
If you have a bear underneath your glove box, I think you have far bigger problems than just electrical...
lol. pedobear is underneath my fusebox. But yeah, driving with no radio is lame.
Anyways, im assuming ill need the wiring diagram in the bentley manual to do this.
can anyone scan and post on here the radio wiring diagram from the bentley manual??
Brent 930
07-14-2008, 07:52 PM
lol. pedobear is underneath my fusebox. But yeah, driving with no radio is lame.
Anyways, im assuming ill need the wiring diagram in the bentley manual to do this.
can anyone scan and post on here the radio wiring diagram from the bentley manual??
I can probably do that for you. You need to look where that wire goes that is near the chassis. That is my best guess to where the problem is. It doesn't mean any component is bad.
Nik1703
07-14-2008, 08:03 PM
I can probably do that for you. You need to look where that wire goes that is near the chassis. That is my best guess to where the problem is. It doesn't mean any component is bad.
i dont think any components of my radio system are bad after i tested it.
I would really appreciate it if you could do that. i'd buy you a beer, but you're in Colorado :)
Nik1703
07-15-2008, 05:51 PM
bump
Nik1703
07-17-2008, 03:29 PM
i had a thought today.
what if i completely bypass the radio 12v line, and wire up my own power to the battery with its own fuse? would that work? and permanently keep the radio fuse removed from the fusebox?
Brent 930
07-17-2008, 04:38 PM
That would work if if that line doesn't need to power anything else you need. It's still better if you can fix it like it should be. Been busy so I haven't got that schematic scanned yet. I might be able to do it tonight.
Nik1703
07-17-2008, 04:45 PM
That would work if if that line doesn't need to power anything else you need. It's still better if you can fix it like it should be. Been busy so I haven't got that schematic scanned yet. I might be able to do it tonight.
thanks man, would really appreciate it. I'll spend an hour troubleshooting the stock 12V line thats in there on saturday... and if i come up with nothing, i'll bypass it and create my own line.
Brent 930
07-17-2008, 05:14 PM
I'm pretty sure that line is also for the windshield wipers and the glove box. I will have to look at the Bentley again to be sure. You could easily check that out with the fuse gone. Different years are slightly different. You have a 97', right?
Nik1703
07-17-2008, 05:30 PM
I'm pretty sure that line is also for the windshield wipers and the glove box. I will have to look at the Bentley again to be sure. You could easily check that out with the fuse gone. Different years are slightly different. You have a 97', right?
I have a 97' yes. It never rains here, dont really care about the wipers. Just want my radio to work.
Does this mean i will have to pull out the fusebox to trace the 12v line for the radio?
Brent 930
07-17-2008, 06:19 PM
I'm still thinking this 12v line has been messed with at some time or another. It's related to the radio (which has been changed), it blows fuses when you go WOT (more vibration) yet you can safely replace the fuse and everything is fine until you repeat the action. Therefor the problem could be very close to the radio in the dash, where there is bare metal exposed and that line is shorting when the car vibrates enough. Am I missing something?
If not, then look really hard in that area for any bare wire. With this info you might not need a schematic.
Nik1703
07-17-2008, 06:22 PM
I'm still thinking this 12v line has been messed with at some time or another. It's related to the radio (which has been changed), it blows fuses when you go WOT (more vibration) yet you can safely replace the fuse and everything is fine until you repeat the action. Therefor the problem could be very close to the radio in the dash, where there is bare metal exposed and that line is shorting when the car vibrates enough. Am I missing something?
If not, then look really hard in that area for any bare wire. With this info you might not need a schematic.
it was happening before i replaced the headunit with the stock headunit still in place. so it has nothing to do with my wiring behind the headunit.
im stumped on this
Brent 930
07-17-2008, 06:59 PM
Can you recall any work that was done on the car recently? If so, what was it?
Nik1703
07-17-2008, 07:13 PM
Can you recall any work that was done on the car recently? If so, what was it?
new pulleys, diff mounts, cam positioning sensor, oil change, Rtabs, new exhaust. nothing electrical.
Then again, ive only had the car for a year. so its electrical history is a mystery to me. I do know it was stock.
Brent 930
07-17-2008, 11:12 PM
PM sent
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