I am really confused about carsoft codes

[bluefrog]

I just got my carsoft and interface today, got the laptop out, run the tests and got codes which are meaningless to me as I cannot find any error codes to check them off against.

Here is what I got;


Airbag BAE;

17

STATUS: ERROR



DME/DDE;

BMS 46

STATUS: OK



ZKE/ZVM;

ZKE 5

61
66
13
14

STATUS: ERROR



Inst Cluster:

87

STATUS: ERROR




Anybody know what these mean? I found some info, but they were for ODBII, not sure if they work with ODBI (the round connector) which is what I used. They were from the OBDproc.pdf

And work for M44 M52 M62 & M73 engines. Based on this document the codes are pointing to a faulty o2 sensor and number 4 misfire. Would you agree? This makes a little sense as the car is running with a fairly bad delay and sometimees suffering from pre-ignition.

My car is a 2000 (E46) 1.9 318i SE.

All help appreciated. Off to bang my head a little now to make it hurt less

[bluefrog]

Having more of a hunt around, I notice that everybody mentions P0 & P1 codes. Hmm, carsoft doesn't give P0 or P1 codes, do I assume the codes I am getting are without the P0 or P1 parts??

[David Mc]

Using a variety of resources, including the Peake handbooks, I interpret the codes as follows:-
ABS 17 Sensor data fault right hand side airbag
ZKE/ZKM faults relate to the Body control module and not the DME (Engine Control) which from your diagnostic shows no faults. Carsoft is only an aid to repairing your engine and still requires mechanical expertise to effect the necessary repairs.
Preiginition faults are usually the result of improper mixture and/or over-advanced ignition timing. Vacuum leaks can result in the mixture initially introduced to the engine as the result of MAF and throttle position sensor readings being leaned out as the result of air entering the system, the O2 sensor detects that the exhaust temperature is too high (meaning that the mixture is too lean, preventing proper combustion) and attempts to enrich the mixture to compensate. Inconsistencies between the functions of the sensors can confuse the diagnostic program into believing that the fault is due to a dud O2 sensor and results in the car exhibiting poor running characteristics. Coincidentally, I read code 61 to relate to a leak in your evap system. My advice would be to carefully check all of your vacuum hoses and connections for leaks, especially the throttle intake boot, clear the codes and run a second diagnostic (as some of the codes may still be stored from previously rectified faults which only serve to further confuse the issue).

[bluefrog]

Thanks for the reply, I do actually have mechanical skills as I restore pre-1975 VW beetles for a living, but being an aircooled flat 4 with almost no modern parts and the only technology is the battery, I am using carsoft for an inside peek for where to start looking. I didnt think that it was an air/fuel problem as when you accelerate there is a delay, and a sudden input of power, like slipping the clutch. I am loathed to take it to a main stealer for £85+vat per hour for them to stand around scratching their heads (or worse).

Is there a good way to check for leaks or is it just eyeballing?

The pre-ignition was only once, but you can feel it trying when you key off.


Is there any online sources for translating the codes, a pdf or something? If not I'll have to get a peake reader, making the carsoft one surplus. So many people think carsoft is the dogs danglies, but so far I'm unimpressed.

I'll clear the codes today and run it around for 30 minutes or so and see what pops up.

Darren

[David Mc]

In the 30+ years I have been working on cars there have been heaps of changes, as you know, the most sophisticated electronics of pre-75 cars was the car radio! Still, at least working on those vehicles allows you to develop a real understanding of what goes on inside engines - which seems to have been all but forgotten these days. Unfortunately many people who have not been fortunate enough to acquire that basic knowledge seem to think that buying some software means that it will become your instant electronic mechanic, which is definately NOT the case. Later engines still work the same way, only now they have sensors so that the functions of the engine can be monitored and controlled with greater precision.

After a thorough visual inspection, the 2 best methods I have found for checking for vacuum leaks still come from the pre-75 era - listening through one end of a length of surgical tubing whilst you pass the other end around potential leak areas with the engine running (you would be surprised at how effective this is!) and, where the leak looks like a dodgy gasket, spraying the suspect area with some engine oil or WD spray, which momentarily seals the leak and restores normal running condition.

The trouble with sensors is that their functions are inter-related and result in diagnostic programs throwing a number of codes which can make you think your engine is about to experience a catastrophic failure, when in fact only one may be the fault and the others the result of other sensors being out of whack because of that fault.

BMW has not helped the situation by changing the fault codes between various year models and Carsoft and the Peake tools compound the problem by displaying fault codes in hex format so you will still need to do some detective work. There are some diagnostic fault code lists here that should help http://www.4shared.com/dir/7137899/6e9cd794/sharing.html

I find that Carsoft narrows the field slightly in determining which sensors are effected by faults and is useful in giving a starting point for checking out problems. It is also good value for resetting fault codes (since it can clear both airbag and engine codes as well as resetting service/inspection intervals) because you would need to purchase 2 Peake Tools (at a total cost of around twice that of a Carsoft interface)to accomplish these functions.

[bluefrog]

lol, yeah, I tell people I work on old VW's and they look at me like I'm from the ark. I agree, an engine is an engine, the same basic principles are evident in both old and new,and I can dance around a veewee engine with my eyes closed. With the BMW however I feel very intimidated by it. So much more stuff to go wrong, and very little in the way of expert mechanics, if you excuse those who work at the dealerships, after all they are fitters, not mechanics. They wouldn't dream of 'fixing' something, only unless they could directly replace it. Which is where the high bills come from, lack of knowledge. However, that said I also suffer from a lack of knowledge when the BMW is concerned.

After taking your advice earlier today, I reset all of the codes and re-scanned. All codes were eradicated. New scan, nothing. So I thought I'd get some live data, after which I re-scanned and the DME popped up with;

BMS 46
120
121

I assume these are both to do with, what I percieve to be, a very low signal I was getting in the live data.

Some live data I was getting was jumping around a bit so I noted it as best as I could;

RPM 825 - 840
Lambda signal .01 - .88v
Ignition angle was moving by around 3 degrees

I was also concerned with a negative value for idle speed air adaption (-3.16 kg/H), and Adpation additive (-.22 mg/hub).

Should my knock and vent indicators be set to off?

Other than that the values are;

Air intake 31
Coolant 105
Air flow 1.4v
Air flow 10.4 kg/h
Ignition angle 15.8 - 18.3
Injection time 4.2 msec
before & after cat values are 100%

What are the accepted values for air flow/h, injector time and ignition angle?

Ah good old engine oil, is there anything it can't do? I used to use the tube method for finding faulty valves in the flat fours. Gives good echo relocation.

Thanks for the link, some good stuff there.

[David Mc]

Sorry Darren,

I only have live data from my 328i - AirFlow 15kg/hr, injector 1 signal 2.558msec and ignition 15.3deg. at 700rpm. I would expect that airflow on the 4 cyl is about right based on the different displacement of the engine, my airflow sensor is spot on 1v with intake temp 35C and water temp 85C, Cat values are 76.44%. The timing jumping around would be my greatest concern and combined with a negative value for idle speed air adaptation, still makes me think that a vacuum leak is the likely culprit.

[bluefrog]

Yeah David, I think you're right. Do you know of any online resources which show the entire vacuum system? I guess it runs under the car also, to the evap? I had a look around the previous work I had my apprentice do on the car and he left number 2 & 3 plugs hand tight, after pulling them checking them over and fitting them properly, alot of the problem has gone away (shock horror), but there is still something not quite right. I'll have to run a new live data test and see what values have changed and where I stand with it now.

Well, here's to a day rolling around the engine bay with a mag glass. lol

BTW, thanks so much for your continued support and help, it means alot to this old mechanic.

Darren

[David Mc]

People seem really impressed with the Bentley Manual, but to tell the truth I find the BMW TIS CD and parts diagrams from here http://www.realoem.com/bmw/select.do are the best references. Good luck.