DIY LCAB install.

[2kredz3]

I noticed that my front end was looser then i felt it should be. When i would hit bumps the car had a slight shudder to it that made me feel un-easy. After looking at bilstein/hr combo and the cost i decided to start with the simple stuff. My best buddy knew what i was talking about on my car and knew that i could not make up my mind on what i wanted to start with. so he ordered me a set of powerflex lower control arm bushings.

Im going to out line the install as well as give my observations.

This is a good article to read about how to install the bushings : http://www.understeer.com/lcab.shtml

I did things a little different, when it came to getting the LCAB off the lower control arm the article above said to use a 3 jaw plyer. Instead i used a ball joint fork. It was simple 2 hits and one tug and the bushing was off in one piece. This saved me a lot of time and really made it easier in my opinnion.

With the bracket and bushing now out of the car i proceed to remove the center of the bushing, this was not essental i just wanted to see how easy it was. It took one hit with a dead blow hammer to remove the whole center (pic below.)


Now using the ball joint fork again i beat the metal shell of the bushing out of the holder: (pic)



The end result is this:



The new bushings from power flex are really really kwel. they are a two piece design that locks together as well as around the bracket. the middle of the bushing is made to pivit with suspension travel with out letting it felx left right or up and down. you lube the center section and use sand paper on the control arm and the bracket to make sure that the two pieces of the bushiner stick to their contact and it only pivits in the proper place.

Pic of new bushings.



I used a piece of wood and a vise to install the new bushings into the brackets, it was painless.



I then used the windex to allow me to push the new bushing and bracket onto the control arm.



I will say that the new bushings are fatter so its harder to get the bracket to line up with the chassis holes, but using a torq bar got it in plave no problem.

the car feels firm, the only thing out of place now is the rear subframe (need new bushings) i did notive that it corners flatter and it has a tad bit of understeer that it never had before (i asume when i get the rear done it will be balanced again). Everything is tight and very responsive. i do not know what the ///m bushings would have done but for 50 bux and the easy install of these bushings i do not see why you would want to put the ///ms in your non m and why you wouldnt replace your ///m's bushings with these

[felonious monk]

FYI, there's a parked DIY thread. Better to post it there.

[2kredz3]

can someone move it

[QuestMCoupe]

Nice writeup! I'm gonna copy the link and post it in the stickied thread for you.

[2kredz3]

Thanks

[QuestMCoupe]

So for this job, all you really need is a ball joint fork, piece of wood, a vice, and the new bushings? Where do you get the fork from?

[2kredz3]

So for this job, all you really need is a ball joint fork, piece of wood, a vice, and the new bushings? Where do you get the fork from?

lol, I have a whole shop air tools welder the works. I tried my 3 jaw plyers but the point was wore off from pulling a damper on my dodge. So i got creative. i believe that i bought the fork from autozone a few years ago when i was replacing control arms on my dodge. not more then 10 bux.

[2kredz3]

oh yeah and dont forget a really large rubber hammer and a dead blow hammer.

[QuestMCoupe]

Cool. Where did you get the bushings from? Thanks.

[2kredz3]

http://www.evosport.com/product/default.aspx?catid=552

[JWin]

I will say that the new bushings are fatter so its harder to get the bracket to line up with the chassis holes, but using a torq bar got it in plave no problem.

Can you explain to me how you got the holes to line up. I can't get them with my hands or a clamp.

Edit: Never mind, that was so easy I feel stupid for having asked.

[2kredz3]

Can you explain to me how you got the holes to line up. I can't get them with my hands or a clamp.

Edit: Never mind, that was so easy I feel stupid for having asked.

i was about to ans. . .lol

[JWin]

i was about to ans. . .lol

Thanks for all your help man, you've been awesome. Test drive in 30 minutes and counting.

[2kredz3]

Thanks for all your help man, you've been awesome. Test drive in 30 minutes and counting.

man i hope that fixes your problem either way you will like the powerflex bushings.

[Robstah]

I just used two big sockets and a vise to press the old bushings out and press the new bushings in.

[IRPancake]

If/when I upgrade to poly I'm going to try a ball join press, used it on my jeep to do control arm bushings

[MCoupeVet]

Good information - Thanks

[BladeAZ]

I found a very quick and easy way to get the stock bushings out.

Using a strong screwdriver or other similar tool, drive it between the LCAB frame and the bushing (see attached photo) all the way through until it comes out the other side. The metal frame of the bushing will bend without too much effort. You should then be able to fairly easily tap the tool back out.

This collapses the structure enough to make its diameter just a bit smaller...small enough that it will hammer out easily.

Then, simply place the bushing on a vice and one or two strikes should be all it takes.

[IRPancake]

Good thinking, probably will save people some $$$

[rotorhed]

Another tip for removing the OEM LCAB: spray the bushing with CRC "QD Electronic Cleaner" (my MAF wire cleaner), the solvent breaks down the OEM adhesive and it comes off without much pounding and zero heat. I used a 2-jaw 4" gear puller from Horror Freight and got the outside moving. Started spraying both sides of the rubber bushing and tapping inside of bushing with round punch. Once it was halfway the solvent breaks down the remaining adhesive and you can wiggle it off with large hands.

[2kredz3]

Nice add :-)

[Mr Bingley]

Another tip for removing the OEM LCAB: spray the bushing with CRC "QD Electronic Cleaner" (my MAF wire cleaner), the solvent breaks down the OEM adhesive and it comes off without much pounding and zero heat. I used a 2-jaw 4" gear puller from Horror Freight and got the outside moving. Started spraying both sides of the rubber bushing and tapping inside of bushing with round punch. Once it was halfway the solvent breaks down the remaining adhesive and you can wiggle it off with large hands.

I just pressed mine out with a small shop press and appropriate sized socket (36mm if I recall)

[rotorhed]

I just pressed mine out with a small shop press and appropriate sized socket (36mm if I recall)

Ja.....i'm referring to the initial removal from the wishbone control arm on the car.

[Mr Bingley]

Ah, I replaced my control arms too, so I had it all off the car and in a vice, which made it much easier--I think I used brake parts cleaner to clean/loosen everything up.