Clint's IE install tips.

[clintjg]

1) You DO NOT have to remove the driveshaft.

2) See number one.

3) Supplemental to the already excellent writeup's on the topic. The order of the first and last part isn't crucial (sp) just do what makes sense, you'll get the idea.

-Rear on jackstands
-Remove rear wheels
-chock front tires
drink beer and take a deep breath

-Disconnect:
Lower rear Shock mount
Swaybar endlinks
4 Rear Exhaust hangers (2 per side)

-keep an eye on or remove rear springs
-Suspend exhaust from existing exhaust hangers
-It's not a bad idea to support the control arms w/ jackstands but you will need some movement in them
-Remove 2 heat shield mounting cap nuts and work heat shield down <- Edit forgot why you had to do this
-support rear subframe via diff w/ jack (not on the fins!)
-remove diff cover to infamous subframe mounting bolt
-remove front side of rear fender liners (two screws each)
-remove rear subframe bushing support brackets
-not a bad idea to remove the brake calipers if you have stock lines (my SS ones were long enough)

drink beer

-lower jack under diff w/ rear subframe you'll have to work the subframe bushings off the mounting pins one side at a time.

take another deep breath this part sucks

-Use bushing removal tool to remove one bushing you can only do one at a time and you have to fanangle the subframe far enough away from the mounting stud that you can get the top of the bushing removal tool on there.

yeahhhhhh

-place the smaller top IE bushing in the subframe where it belongs and manuver the 1/2 complete new setup back to the mounting stud.
*go over to the other side and do the same there
-now pick a side and put the bottom IE bushing part into the subframe and attempt to line it up with the mounting pin as close as possible. Just start it. Attempt to keep the subframe as square as possible while doing this by raising/adjusting the the jack slightly.

-"You can just squeeze it in by hand." <- Yeah. My a$$! Out of the three cars I've done this worked on one.

-Line up the grooves in the bushing w/ the divits in the subframe bushing cup and get it as far on as possible.

DISCLAIMER: those that abhor 'shady-tree wrenching techniques' avert your eyes below.



-Take a socket (I used a 17mm deepwell impact socket) and place it on the metal center part of the bottom IE bushing. (that last part is key) While maintaining the rear subframe as square on the subframe mounting pin (that is inside the bushing) as possible. Take another Jack and place it on the bottom of the afore mentioned socket and SLOWLY jack the bushing a)fully into position and b) onto the bushing mounting pin

-remove the jack and duplicate on the other side of the car.
-torque everything to specs (i use 'Tight' on stuff not driveline related)
-didn't remove the drive shaft did you?
-drink beer the hard stuff is done
-raise the subframe and re-install everything in a logically reversed order begining w/ the bushing mounting hardware and the diff cover mount and ending w/ the brake calipers if you removed them

You need 2 good jacks, 2 jackstand (four is better) time and beer. (trust me)

For those that said this is a half a$$ed writeup - Your right.

I just finished my 4th 12 hour work day but I wanted to let you guy's know what I found out. So there. I may have forgotten something but from memory I think that this covers about everything.

Peace,
Clint

[felonious monk]

Kind of funny how "squeeze" and "ass" are on the same line. Good info... should be a sticky, err I mean parked.

[fpa1974]

So you do not have to loosen any bolts on the driveshaft at all?

Sounds very doable and logical. Thanks for taking the time to write this up.

Florian

[buldogge]

Why are you guys removing/disconnecting soooo much stuff???

Me and a buddy did mine last night...

Disconnect top diff mount...disconnect exhaust at mid-pipe (4 x copper 8mm nuts...replace with new later).

With subframe jacked undo mounts/cover plates and lower subframe.

Remove rear wheels...undo 2 lower screws on wheel well liners, fold out of way, and use wrench to remove subframe mount studs.

Use tool to remove bushings...install top bushing and stud...install lower bushing...replace bolt/cover...top diff mount...exhaust nuts x 4.

2.5 hours MAX...

Of course this was done on my lift!

[mpire]

Buldogge...

Would you be available for tech support? 2.5 hours means I could do 4 or 5 cars in a day!

[clintjg]

Of note the

Of course this was done on my lift!

part.

We started out on my car and the exhaust is welded not bolted so rather than hastle with it we just disconnected the rear mounts and lowered it enough to do the job.

May be able to do it without removing the calipers but rather than risk yanking a line off I just decided to play it safe.

[clintjg]

Oh.... yes the wheel well liners should be moved out of the way for ease of install. Two screws per side.

[clintjg]

For what it's worth I can't figure out of the beer makes it more or less complicated....

[mpire]

Well, I intend to remove the shocks, springs, and differential during the install anyways.. So do you think it will be harder or easier?

[clintjg]

You have to pull the shocks if your not doing the driveshaft and the springs would just be flopping around there anyway so remove is a fairly strong technical term. The Diff only needs to be unbolted from it's solitary mount, you don't have to mess w/ the half shafts.

Don't forget to unplug the Vehicle Speed Sensor from the Diff!!

[mpire]

Yeah, but while the diff is so close to removed, why not swap it out?

[Randy Forbes]

Don't forget to unplug the Vehicle Speed Sensor from the Diff!!

My problem is remembering to plug it back in!

I usually discover the omission when admiring my work in photographs...

I was very proud of myself that I plugged Daniel's sensor back in before the car was off the blocks (balancing out the handful of times I've left my own plug tucked around the swaybar_out of sight & out of mind).

[tripleM]

My problem is remembering to plug it back in!

I usually discover the omission when admiring my work in photographs...

I was very proud of myself that I plugged Daniel's sensor back in before the car was off the blocks (balancing out the handful of times I've left my own plug tucked around the swaybar_out of sight & out of mind).

I think Clint's was driving around merrily & remarked @ how fast things felt @ 0 mph.

[Randy Forbes]

I think Clint's was driving around merrily & remarked @ how fast things felt @ 0 mph.

Clint, that true?

[Hugo]

[clintjg]

nahhh I thought that we had wrapped the needle all the way around the speedo....

[clintjg]

Yeah it's true....

[clintjg]

Yeah, but while the diff is so close to removed, why not swap it out?

Touche..... $$$$ directly related to the f'n holidays....

[clintjg]

After a third install I just edited the instructions in post one for clarification. We were on schedule for about a 3hr job. That's about how long it should take given no misshaps.

Of note:
Don't bother pulling off the rear calipers if you have stock rear brake lines. Just be careful and keep an eye on them.
Don't mess with the exhaust hangers on the crossmember. Just pull the rear four and let the exhaust hang from the crossmember mounts. (works for stock - can't say w/ others)
Don't crossthread the tool. 2:

Apparently 10 is the magic number. On the tenth bushing that this particular tool attempted to remove, the threaded top part that actually sucks the bushing into the receiver cup shredded itself. I think that I crossthreaded it but it's really hard to tell since the damn thing take so much effort to turn anyway. I didn't notice untill it was too late.

We were able to make a knockoff replacement by getting a 1/2 X 10'' hex bolt and a matching die. We used the die to extend the threads far enough to extract the bushing. We replaced the tools main bolt w/ our homemade one and some washers on the bottom and top. We placed the stripped out tool piece on the bushing and the 1/2'' threaded nut on top of that and pulled on that SOB till the cow's came home. We had to hold the nut from turning w/ an adjustable wrench. But it worked.

Needless to say I don't think I'll be doing that again soon.

[6i9]

After a third install I just edited the instructions in post one for clarification. We were on schedule for about a 3hr job. That's about how long it should take given no misshaps.

Of note:
Don't bother pulling off the rear calipers if you have stock rear brake lines. Just be careful and keep an eye on them.
Don't mess with the exhaust hangers on the crossmember. Just pull the rear four and let the exhaust hang from the crossmember mounts. (works for stock - can't say w/ others)
Don't crossthread the tool. 2:

Apparently 10 is the magic number. On the tenth bushing that this particular tool attempted to remove, the threaded top part that actually sucks the bushing into the receiver cup shredded itself. I think that I crossthreaded it but it's really hard to tell since the damn thing take so much effort to turn anyway. I didn't notice untill it was too late.

We were able to make a knockoff replacement by getting a 1/2 X 10'' hex bolt and a matching die. We used the die to extend the threads far enough to extract the bushing. We replaced the tools main bolt w/ our homemade one and some washers on the bottom and top. We placed the stripped out tool piece on the bushing and the 1/2'' threaded nut on top of that and pulled on that SOB till the cow's came home. We had to hold the nut from turning w/ an adjustable wrench. But it worked.

Needless to say I don't think I'll be doing that again soon.

Live and learn.

Thanks again Clint

[clintjg]

Not a problem man.

[tripleM]

Not a problem man.

http://bimmer.roadfly.org/bmw/forums...5939471-1.html

[clintjg]

Hey! It only took us one try!!!! RTFO!!!

[tripleM]

Hey! It only took us one try!!!! RTFO!!!

Dude, not cause I'm biased but we were 3 hrs ahead of those guys & used 1 nut & @ the top!

[clintjg]

I'm just glad that this wasn't the first time it happend.... For those out there planning on doing several, use caution.