Doing a clutch and shift pins, do I have everything covered I'll need/should replace?

[robb1887]

Some of you might have seen my first post "It finally happened. pulled the trigger on an E36/8." Well the first thing that needs to get done is the clutch. I looked through the manifesto and figure I might as well do the shift pins even though it hasnt exibited the signs of needing them since I already will have the transmission pulled. I am also replacing other wear items that would be good to replace now with everything broken down:

Shopping list as of now:

Clutch items:

From bimmerworld:
Sach's S52 OEM replacement clutch kit (clutch, PP, throwout bearing)
Pivot pin for clutch release lever (for Z3's)
RE tranny mounts
RE carrier bushings (oval)

From Pelican:
Guibo nuts (x6) 07-12-9-900-047
Guide sleeve for throw out bearing 23-11-1-224-845
Pilot bearing 11-21-1-720-310
Flywheel bolts (x8) 11-22-2-243-051
Pressue plate bolts (x6) 07-11-9-906-045
Selector rod seal 23-12-1-282-394
Tranny Input shaft seal 23-21-1-224-820
Clutch line (OEM) 21-52-1-159-714
Spring clip for clutch assembly 21-51-7-570-284
Exhaust gasket (x2) 18-30-1-716-888
Rear main seal 11-14-2-245-364

Shift Pin items:

From Pelican:
Pin kit (x3) 23117525048
Sealing cap (x3) 07119937227
Pin bushing kit (x2) 23117542726
Reverse gear pin 23311224849
5th gear pin 23317502165

Drift pins I will be making on a buddy's lathe

Anything I'm missing? Anything else I should be doing while I'm there?

SS kit- is not in the budget now, I have other things $200 should be spent on right now.
Guibo- I dont have to pull the transmission to replace it, so I'll inspect it when I do this before purchasing one to find I don't need it.
Flywheel- Inspecting and resurfacing as required, I'd rather not drop the money on a new one now with other items needing attention.

Thanks for any advice

[328 Power 04]

You should probably clean replace and re-lube the shifter ball cup, replace the shifter arm bushing, and the shift coupler bushing that the selector rod attaches to.

See this for rebuilding the shifter, it will be extremely crisp after all that. http://www.pelicanparts.com/bmw/tech...t_Bushings.htm

[robb1887]

You should probably clean replace and re-lube the shifter ball cup, replace the shifter arm bushing, and the shift coupler bushing that the selector rod attaches to.

See this for rebuilding the shifter, it will be extremely crisp after all that. http://www.pelicanparts.com/bmw/tech...t_Bushings.htm

Thanks for the suggestions, I'll look into them.

I also just added Amsoil 5w30 Manual Synchromesh Transmission fluid to the list of items I will be getting to do when doing this.

[jajou318]

You can get the shift pin as a kit from a fellow enthusiast and destroyer of driveshafts McoupeMindy.

http://www.bimmerdiffs.com/collectio...vice-parts-kit

http://www.bimmerdiffs.com/collectio...drift-kit-used

[RickySixx6]

were the subframe bushings already replaced?

[dcrothers]

Forget the OEM clutch line and go with Stainless Steel Braided to avoid future headaches.

[robb1887]

You can get the shift pin as a kit from a fellow enthusiast and destroyer of driveshafts McoupeMindy.

http://www.bimmerdiffs.com/collectio...vice-parts-kit

http://www.bimmerdiffs.com/collectio...drift-kit-used

I came across this in my parts list travels and wasn't sure if I should go with his (her?) site. From your recommendation and more looking about I will be going though his site, and saving a few bucks. Ordering the shift pins, ultimate seat fix, and tranny oil.

were the subframe bushings already replaced?

I am guessing you're talking rear diff/subframe? I doubt they have been, and the car is only at 94k. I am not looking at dropping the diff at the moment and pressing all that stuff out at this time either, but the clutch NEEDS to be replaced.

Forget the OEM clutch line and go with Stainless Steel Braided to avoid future headaches.

After looking more into these an RE is only $10 more... I will be going that route.

[BenFenner]

I think Ricky is talking about the front subframe?

[jajou318]

Mcoupemindy.. Mindy being his car's name. His is Jonathan.

[robb1887]

Got it

[Z3MRacer]

I've got a set of BimmerDiffs shift pin punches (very lightly used) for $40 shipped.

SOLD! Thank You.

[robb1887]

Placed all my orders this morning... boy does my CC hate me. Thanks for the suggestions guys. Looking forward to a smooth shifting, great feeling trans.

[Blacklane]

I couldn't find a shop that would re-surface the dual-mass flywheel since they flex too much. I just lightly sanded mine. There are a few YouTube videos on what a bad one looks like, and they often fail. You should inspect yours while in there.

[robb1887]

Update:
Did the work this weekend:

Things I had and really didnt need:
Guide sleeve for throw out bearing 23-11-1-224-845
Selector rod seal 23-12-1-282-394
Tranny Input shaft seal 23-21-1-224-820

Transmission seals were tight and good, I did not see the need to mess with them and my patience was thin by this time, but its good to have in case you remove yours and they are leaking.

Reverse gear pin 23311224849
Pin bushing kit (x1) 23117542726

It was a biotch of a time getting 5th's replaced, I didn't have the patience to mess with Reverse, I'll deal with it being a bit tough.

I bought the selector rod cup, and it came with the internal bushing, pin retainer ring, and an updated bushing that does not require the yellow washers. Also, the RE delrin carrier bushing comes with a new clip that is not stated as included so I got one just in case.

Things I didnt have I wish I did:
ALL EXHAUST HARDWARE....
4x bolts for rear flanges
4x nuts for rear flanges
6x nuts for manifold studs

I don't know what I was thinking or how this was missed, but hot DAM these were a pain. Also, I might try using a standard socket in the future on the manifold nuts, a 13mm was too small and a 14 was a little big yet its a 10MM (1.00 pitch, I found out) nut per realoem