R U thinking about adjustable trailing arm mounts?

[PbFut]

This is why you want to think very hard on the subject. Even with the serrated plates, if you don’t check that the bolts are tight in very regular intervals a quite unexpected turn of events can happen.
I notice something wrong at about 9 seconds on the in car view. You can hear the wheel rubbing shortly after, as the rear wheel toes out, and sends the car into a pirouette. Luckily no walls were in the way.

[Zacorias]

Woah, glad you're ok. What was the final damage?

[PbFut]

None. Just rest the toe and tighten the bolts. Needs a good bath.

[moonvan]

thats definitely not something you want to find out mid race but its good that it didnt happen near any walls or next to other cars.

[BMWBergy]

...and after handily passing the Subaru and Nissan, too! I'll bet they were grinning (nervously) and grateful for your misfortune.

Glad you and the car are alright!

[f50nut]

Wow that was scary. Came out of nowhere, glad you're okay.

Thanks for the heads up on these. I've been suspicious of these adjusters since RF had all those issues with the install.

[albrazzi]

Wow that was scary. Came out of nowhere, glad you're okay.

Thanks for the heads up on these. I've been suspicious of these adjusters since RF had all those issues with the install.

I installed a set about the same time Randy was installing them on a customers car, its always good to follow someone like Randy through a procedure. I found there to be enough bolt protruding past the serrated plate to install another nut, i was concerned there was not enough thickness to that part to hold the bolt and locktite would not be a good idea there certainly not the Red, maybe some blue but the double nut has held fine for me. You do lose some security without that pinched locknut on the OEM part. I still think these will outperform the cam adjusters.
I had that same spin a couple of times until I found a bent arm and installed these parts.

[Mr Bingley]

Safety wire?

[Bcar]

Safety wire?

Thats what I was thinking, or even better nord locks. too bad that damn thing would be a @#$% to change at this point ;(


PbFut, thanks for posting, guess what I'll be doing this evening??
p.s. your coupe sounds amazing! and thats what I call trail braking!

[Randy Forbes]

Ahhh, the joy of modifications!

Anytime you deviate from a standard part, there are compromises...

Glad that Lady Luck was with you in the cockpit Dan!

[albrazzi]

Thats what I was thinking, or even better nord locks. too bad that damn thing would be a @#$% to change at this point ;(


PbFut, thanks for posting, guess what I'll be doing this evening??
p.s. your coupe sounds amazing! and thats what I call trail braking!

Nord locks will not work, they are just a fancy lock washer, the bolt threads into the serrated plate. The double nut is the best way. No where to put a safety wire. I have seen pictures of homemade tricks to keep the bolt from loosening but they are pretty creative at best.

[agfx]

Are we talking about the rear trailing arm camber/toe adjustment kit or something else?

I am very glad to hear that nothing is damaged.

[trkshoe]

Been there... during a night enduro nonetheless... I ended up using red loctite after we got the final settings for toe/camber in place.
Glad ur ok Dan... and this after Dan spent all day changing a front wheel bearing at the track!!!

Patrick

[PbFut]

Yes this was the rear Trailing Arm Camber/Toe Kit. Please don't get me wrong. There is need for this kit in some cases. It just seems to me I see a lot of street cars attempting to correct minor issues with this nuclear devise. It is perfect for the right need, and owner is aware of down sides.

Yes on Friday practice, in anticipation of some good, long needed, seat time, I roll off the trailer with an undiscovered failing left front wheel bearing discovered after 12 laps. Not a lot of those in Bakersfield on a Friday afternoon. Fellow Time Trialer found one in Long Beach and picked up for me on the way up. I had the bearing swapped out in under 15 min. Then Sat morning this happened. 30 min fix. Then had to Dyno the car to class for an event next month at Laguna Seca and missed 3rd session because the idiot in front of me decides to retune on the wheel. Late to grid on 4th session while instructing another driver and locked out. So only two 20 min sessions on Saturday. Then on Sunday morning, the Right front bearing decides to start grumbling in second session. At that point I put it on the trailer and called it a weekend. So instead of 4 hours on track I got 1 total. I am not sure why, but Buttonwillow is a jinx track for me. Every time I drive up there, I bust something. Rant over, need to eat dinner.

[trkshoe]

Sorry for sunday... the heat did in the diff, if was fried 2+ hours into the enduro.
Note to the community - diff cooler is necessary on these cars, if you are running anything more than a sprint race.

[Bcar]

Nord locks will not work, they are just a fancy lock washer, the bolt threads into the serrated plate. The double nut is the best way. No where to put a safety wire. I have seen pictures of homemade tricks to keep the bolt from loosening but they are pretty creative at best.

Ahhh, I didnt know the posi-lock style threaded directly into one of the end plates/no nut. Ive got the standard IE kit.

Nord locks do work though, very well, standard lock washers dont do anything, and loc-tite is a band-aid that adds some torque retention. We did extensive testing on suspension joints with various fastening/locking methods, other than safety wire, nord locks are best (side note: the other thing we learned is that loc-tite doesnt do anything if you're using coated fasteners/holes-nuts, one of the two needs to be uncoated/ferrous or we need to use a primer). I still think a nord lock under the bolt head would help on the posi-lock style, if the bolt backs out a little it will still retain clamp force. got me thinking...I may add them to my standard kit next winter, no desire to pull it all apart again this year...

Yes this was the rear Trailing Arm Camber/Toe Kit. Please don't get me wrong. There is need for this kit in some cases. It just seems to me I see a lot of street cars attempting to correct minor issues with this nuclear devise. It is perfect for the right need, and owner is aware of down sides.

+1, I couldnt deal with 8k rear tire life due to worn insides. Are you using the posi-lock style plates?

Sorry for sunday... the heat did in the diff, if was fried 2+ hours into the enduro.
Note to the community - diff cooler is necessary on these cars, if you are running anything more than a sprint race.

ouch. were you using the standard finned cover or the rouge with additional fins?

[BenFenner]

I too would like to know if the passive rear diff cooler fins are enough, or if you're recommending additional cooling for long track sessions?

[Z3racer701]

Been there... during a night enduro nonetheless... I ended up using red loctite after we got the final settings for toe/camber in place.
Glad ur ok Dan... and this after Dan spent all day changing a front wheel bearing at the track!!!

Patrick

I remember that weekend. When you came in looking at the rear wheel I knew exactly what had happened. It happened to me two weeks earlier, lost both the nut and washer on drivers right toe adjuster. Lucily I was able to get a new ecentric nut and washer from Jeff just in time to make my race weekend.

[PbFut]

I too would like to know if the passive rear diff cooler fins are enough, or if you're recommending additional cooling for long track sessions?

To some degree it depends on the diff setup and condition of discs and track you run. The more slip, the more heat. But I would say anything over 45mins on track needs to seriously consider a remote cooler, even if the diff is in good shape. That is just my opinion. You will likely get a wide range on this. 30min or under and reasonably good condition diff, you're fine. Remember club sessions of 30 minutes is about 20 on track. So unless you are running some fairly long races, like Patrick, you will be fine.

[trkshoe]

I too would like to know if the passive rear diff cooler fins are enough, or if you're recommending additional cooling for long track sessions?

Stock fins with an incredible diff made by Jim Blanton (anything less wouldn't have lasted that long)... I agree with Dan, anything more than 45 minutes requires a diff cooler. Keep in mind, it was over 100 degrees at buttonwilow this past weekend, even at the night enduro start time (6:15) it was well into the 90's.

[328 Power 04]

Oh boy... now all of us Z3 drivers with camber/toe weld in tabs are going to go under and check it out. I will put some red loc-tite, wouldn't like this to happen on the road. It has been around 10,000 miles with them on. Thanks for the warning.


Now I've seen some pictures online (forgot where) of some vey customized trailing arms that had adjustments welded in the arm itself (on the part of the "A")? Anyone have info on those?

[yash]

Checking these nuts as become regular PM for me. I always check on these things when my car is in the air.
When I bought the car it came with Kmac camber/ toe bushings and both the inner nuts were mms loose, as the bolt were too short for the Teflon nut to work properly.

Sent from zero f$@ks given.

[Zoupe6]

I'm sorry if I missed it, but what kind of tabs did you weld in? The notched type? Also, It would be interesting to hear what people use for their torquing procedure. Its not easy to get a wrench in there, let alone a torque wrench. I know that you load the suspension before torquing, but I'm more interested in the wrench placement/torquing methods used.

[PbFut]

Use a socket on ujoint to an extender to a long handle ratchet. Use 1/2 tools. Works very well and you get the most leverage that way.

[dcrothers]

I'm not sure what to call it..... How about the bolt that has a flat edge along the splines in combination with double nut. The second nut has the allen set screw to clamp it in place to prevent nut rotation.. The flat edge would only have to be at the end of the bolt, not the entire length.