Iteland engineering rear camber correction kit?

[vanne]

Hi anyone got one of these on their non-m? Hard to install? Can't believe how much camber you get when you drop it 30mills.. Crazy..
How do all the other non m guys sort this?

How difficult is the install? Is it DIY? Or is it hard? And how sturdy is it?

Just can't believe the camber... Just wow...

Good reviews for this product?

Thanks for any tips/heads up...

Well that's ofcourse supposed to say Ireland engineering... Doh!!

[Zoupe6]

These are weld-in kits that require your subframe to be removed for installation. How hard the install is depends on what tools you have in your garage. I personally do not have them, but I have seen them in action. They seem to work well and hold their settings. Once installed you need to set your camber values which is usually done best by somebody that has the right tools. Don't forget to weight the car down with a driver when you do this to get the best settings.

Alternatively, there are adjustable bushings. Much easier to install, but they don't seem to be as robust as the weld-in kits.

I am waiting to lower my car until I am ready to pull the subframe again and weld in these plates. If you do use the weld-in plates, might as well install the toe adjustment kit while you have the subframe out.

How's your front camber with such a small drop?

[45guy]

My lowered non-M coupe would wear down to the cords waaaay too quickly.
The Ireland kit made financial sense and, 3000 miles later, I don't regret it.
As far as installation, I made it someone else's responsibility. Ireland's instructions leave a bit to be desired and the prospect of f-ing up the tail end of my daily driver didn't sound smart.
Recommended.

[PbFut]

I did my own on FrankenCoupe. The serrated style are the way to go. They hold well, but, you really need to pay attention to them in the beginning. They loosen quite easily at first. I was retightening every track session for about 10 session until they finally took a set. If I were to do again, I would weld a lock tab to the kit so I could bend it over the edge of the nut and bolt to keep them from backing out.
The kit is very basic and there really is not much to the install. I will say, the first cut on the subframe bushing tab takes some nerve. Basic welding skills is pushing the description of my ability and the job turned out very good. The only thing I did not do that would have improved my job was running a long rod through the kit when positioning. I think that would improve the alignment of the two bushings lowering the possibility of bushing bind.

Oh and one more thing. The tabs are too long for the coupe. They will hit the gas tank. You need to shorten them or you will be too close or touching the tank.Be sure to test fit before you pull the sub-frame.

[CarPrep]

Rear Adjustable Camber/Toe Bushings from Turner is what I had installed when I lowered my car and they corrected the camber nicely. I had my alignment shop install them so I can't say how difficult of a job it is. My car is strictly a street machine and after about 5000 miles, so far so good.

[vanne]

How's your front camber with such a small drop?

Uhmm, small drop ?? Front camber is spot on, I have had ARC coilovers in the front since the PO. The car is now very level, and veeeerrryy low...

Love the way it drives, but damm lucky this isn't my DD as I don't think I'd be able to put up with the rough ride every day. For me that puts it in the more special category as I can feel every bump/nook/cranny in the road. And puts a smile on my face every time I come home and park next to it, thinking "I'll see you tomorrow for a very special drive"

But yeah boy it's awesome!!

Is it also possible to change the camber to a less aggressive stance using rear camber plates? Or even using shims in the rear mount?

[z3papa]

I've done it with the guidance of Sunzout. It's no small task. With hindsight, I'd suggest enlisting the help of someone who has been through it.

[vanne]

Yeah that's gonna be a drama I'd recon, I don't know any bmw backyard boys here.. Sigh, Iam pretty handy with a welder, but i just saw the turner bushes, and that looks easier to me... But boy the price is outrageous...
Hmm....

[albrazzi]

I did my own on FrankenCoupe. The serrated style are the way to go. They hold well, but, you really need to pay attention to them in the beginning. They loosen quite easily at first. I was retightening every track session for about 10 session until they finally took a set. If I were to do again, I would weld a lock tab to the kit so I could bend it over the edge of the nut and bolt to keep them from backing out.
The kit is very basic and there really is not much to the install. I will say, the first cut on the subframe bushing tab takes some nerve. Basic welding skills is pushing the description of my ability and the job turned out very good. The only thing I did not do that would have improved my job was running a long rod through the kit when positioning. I think that would improve the alignment of the two bushings lowering the possibility of bushing bind.

Oh and one more thing. The tabs are too long for the coupe. They will hit the gas tank. You need to shorten them or you will be too close or touching the tank.Be sure to test fit before you pull the sub-frame.

I use the serated ones also and the bolts were long enough to add a nut to lock everything down. +1 on the Gas tank clearance, the slots are so long you can take a 1/2+ off the bottom of the bracket, I think its leaves more strength than trimming the top.