I was looking at the glove box 'droop" and thinking...hmmm..why cant I drill a hole thru the plastic into the steel metal behind the top (alongside the latch) and put a sheet metal screw through there to hold the top of the frame up and that looks like it would keep the door up closer ?
BMWCCA # 12660 (got my 35 year pin in the mail)
PCA 30 Years..........
X5 06 3.0 Saphire Black/Tan-- Ours
Z 3 01 2.5/5 Topaz/Tan (was 96 Silver)-- Mine
911 (997S) 06 Cab/Tip Guards/Black -- Hers/Ours?
Really not sure what you are suggesting but one fix is to remove the heavy factory metal bracing in the door, that goes a long ways into fixing the
sagging and rattling, many here including me have removed the factory bracing and installed the glove box fix (support). There are threads and post
about removing factory bracing.
Last edited by fire2; 01-06-2013 at 11:39 AM.
When I got the roadster, someone had done exactly what you describe to it. It worked I guess but I knew it wasn't right. I pulled everything apart (had to do it anyway to adjust the blend door) and fixed it the right way with a steel reinforcement bar. I also removed the bracing at the same time. Once I had it apart and looked at what the screw was in to, I don't think it would have been a long term solution. I believe it would have failed. I made my own bar. It cost me about $3 from Lowes.
Last edited by Wertles; 01-06-2013 at 12:32 AM.
1999 M Coupe Boston Green, Beige, H&R/Bilsteins, Underdrive Pulleys, Euro 6 speed, UUC SSK and Randy Forbes in the back
2002 2.5 Z3 roadster Oxford Green, auto, all stock
2013 Ram 3500 Crew Cab Dually 385 HP, 850 ft lbs torque at 1600 rpm, all stock and staying that way
2004 Mini Cooper Chili Red, daily driver, modified almost daily
Try here: www.schneebergerdesigns.com/help He has the instructions and the parts already made up.
There is a pic in post 112. This bar was aluminum, get steel. Cut off to length, mark with a marker where the 4 bolts come through, make slots large enough for the bolts to slide through, make a cut out for the latching mechanism and you are ready to go. I made all the cuts with a jig saw. It becomes perfectly clear what to do once you have pulled the glove box out. It took $4 from Home Depot or Lowes for the bar and 15 minutes with a marker and jig saw to do the whole thing. In that thread, I posted before and after pictures on how mine turned out (page 2).
http://forums.bimmerforums.com/forum...1752210&page=5
1999 M Coupe Boston Green, Beige, H&R/Bilsteins, Underdrive Pulleys, Euro 6 speed, UUC SSK and Randy Forbes in the back
2002 2.5 Z3 roadster Oxford Green, auto, all stock
2013 Ram 3500 Crew Cab Dually 385 HP, 850 ft lbs torque at 1600 rpm, all stock and staying that way
2004 Mini Cooper Chili Red, daily driver, modified almost daily
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