Top DIY'rs Sound Off

[RedRedZ]

I'd like to hear from those of you who have replaced your own tops. What top did you use? What do you think of it? What else did you have to replace? (sealing frame, cables, straps)?
With my car in heated storage for the winter I am thinking it's a good time to do this. I have more time than money but want to do a good job.

[Tazmanian Devil]

Replaced my top on the 96 last summer with OEM top. I did replace the sealing frame and clean all the butyl tape off the top well. Grab a friend to help with the sealing frame and placing the top onto the frame.

Vinci has a good DIY on replacing your top under his sig.

Good Luck

[Mr Bingley]

I have actually swapped tops from one car to another. It is insanely easy to remove the entire top and frame from the vehicle. If I were to replace the canvas, I think I would just pull the top and frame out completely and do it on the bench, and then install the new top and fame in the car. There is butyl tape that should be applied, and also a butyl calking compound--this last is the same as used for installing windshields. If you take the sealing frame (#13 below) out together with the top it shouldn't break--you will need a thin flexible knife to cut the butyl as you are removing it. I got the top out one man, but it is definitely a two man job to put it back in. Mask mask mask when it comes to the butyl. It makes things easier to pull the interior (seats, rear console and well carpeting) imho--at least for installation. You will likely destroy the plastic push pins that secure the carpeting (#4 below), or at least some of them, so I would order new as part of the job.

[FormulaLT1]

I recently installed a new top I purchased from German Auto tops, I got the same material as original and am very happy with the final result of the swap but wouldn't recommend purchasing the same top as me even though it was very affordable as it was not made with ease of installation in mind.In addition to what was said I would check the condition of your cables prior to the install because I found out after starting my install that mine were hanging by a literal strand. Good luck.

[BimmerBreaker]

I have actually swapped tops from one car to another. It is insanely easy to remove the entire top and frame from the vehicle.

+100

Taking out bolts and reinstalling with some new butyl rubber...
Versus finagling with a canvas top for hours. Seems obvious to me

Replacing the top as a whole unit is the way to go! I live in a warm climate and have never had to cut or doing anything weird to the butyl. It lets the top right out, no problem - is still gooey/sticky to the touch. I imagine in colder climates it will be a bit harder set, making it a little more difficult to remove the top

Still a lot easier than stretching some canvas over a top making sure a million little things are all in the right spot

[Cloudbase]

I have an entire top for sale. It's in good shape, but not perfect. Still assembled with canvas and frame.

http://denver.craigslist.org/pts/3439863465.html

[SWISS]

$329 here and members have given them good reviews.

http://www.autotopsdirect.com/BMW-Z3...-Tops-s/54.htm

[matthew1975]

I have an entire top for sale. It's in good shape, but not perfect. Still assembled with canvas and frame. Interested in this what makes it not perfect can it be made perfect? Can you email me more info about it matthewchristian75@gmail.com

[RedRedZ]

I recently installed a new top I purchased from [COLOR=blue !important][COLOR=blue !important]German [COLOR=blue !important]Auto[/COLOR][/COLOR][/COLOR] tops, I got the same material as original and am very happy with the final result of the swap but wouldn't recommend purchasing the same top as me even though it was very [COLOR=blue !important][COLOR=blue !important]affordable[/COLOR][/COLOR] as it was not made with ease of installation in mind

That's good to know, from their description it sounds like a straight forward installation, "predrilled, prealigned".

If I were to replace the canvas, I think I would just pull the top and frame out completely and do it on the bench, and then install the new top and fame in the car. There is butyl tape that should be applied, and also a butyl calking compound--this last is the same as used for installing [COLOR=blue !important][COLOR=blue !important]windshields[/COLOR][/COLOR].

I'll have to think about that. Right now it's up on jackstands while I do the adjustable toe and camber mod. That's a good height to work on the top, I'm not sure my workbench is better.
Butyl caulking sounds great, the building I'm in is heated to 50F so I figured on using a heat gun to help soften the butyl tape, caulk seems like a great belt and suspenders approach.

$329 here and members have given them good reviews.

It's one I'm considering.

I have an entire top for sale. It's in good shape, but not perfect. Still assembled with canvas and frame.

It's tempting but if I am going to change it I think I'll go for a new one. My top could go another year or two with care but I have restiched the window once and the edging is looking shabby. I'm retired and have the time. I like to say I'm a jack of all trades, master of none, I have even done some boat canvas, but that only helps me understand some of the issues.

[wcampbelliv]

Just ordered a top from autotopsdirect. The rain gutter above the window is the cherry on top for me. That's honestly one of my biggest complaints about the design of our tops both soft and hard; if you roll the window down when the car is wet, you get soaked.

Planning to install over christmas, I'll report back then.

[FormulaLT1]

That's good to know, from their description it sounds like a straight forward installation, "predrilled, prealigned".

I know, I bought from them over similiar priced top due to "thinking", oh they took alot of the hard part out, now I can just attach it. I was later told after I called that there advertisement for the top was generic by there web designer and that there was no pre drilled holes or alignment done and not only that but the attachment surface was fabric strips with no hardened plastic that had to be cut everywhere, it looks good and is holding up awesome after a month or so but I would not buy from them again.

Also- there front corners are not reinforced as stated in the ad.

[RedRedZ]

I know, I bought from them over similiar priced top due to "thinking", oh they took alot of the hard part out, now I can just attach it. I was later told after I called that there advertisement for the top was generic by there web designer and that there was no pre drilled holes or alignment done and not only that but the attachment surface was fabric strips with no hardened plastic that had to be cut everywhere, it looks good and is holding up awesome after a month or so but I would not buy from them again.

Also- there front corners are not reinforced as stated in the ad.

Thanks, thats really good to know. Did you replace anything else as part of the project?

[setho1993]

$329 here and members have given them good reviews.

http://www.autotopsdirect.com/BMW-Z3...-Tops-s/54.htm

This is the one I used. Excellent top, the window is sewn in though.

[spacecowboy]

It is insanely easy to remove the entire top and frame from the vehicle. If I were to replace the canvas, I think I would just pull the top and frame out completely and do it on the bench, and then install the new top and fame in the car. There is butyl tape that should be applied, and also a butyl calking compound--this last is the same as used for installing windshields. If you take the sealing frame (#13 below) out together with the top it shouldn't break--you will need a thin flexible knife to cut the butyl as you are removing it. I got the top out one man, but it is definitely a two man job to put it back in.

A little more detail please. Unbolt the sealing frame, cut the old butyl loose from the body, anything else? Attachment to the top motor or cabling?

[Mr Bingley]

A little more detail please. Unbolt the sealing frame, cut the old butyl loose from the body, anything else? Attachment to the top motor or cabling?

Unbolt the 2 13mm hex head bolts that fasten the top frame mounts to the body at the to of the rear door jams behind the rubber moldings--remove the moldings. Remove the foam inserts just behind these on either side. Unbolt the 4 (2 per side) 10mm hex head bolts that secure the top frame mounts to the body just behind the door jams. unplug the electrical connector on the driver's side by the mount. Unhook the hydraulic cylinder arm for the electric top hoist on the driver's side (if equipped). Remove the rear deck carpeting (the black plastic push plugs are diabolical). Unbolt the several (16?) 10mm hex head bolts that secure the sealing frame to the body--don't miss the 2 located inside the boxes at the very front of the frame by the door jams (there are holes for accessing these). Lower the top by hand. separate the sealing frame, top and plastic surround from the body (this is where I used a surgical knife, but you could heat the area according to others). lift out the top as a unit. Thoroughly clean off the butyl from the new top and car. Refit the top a couple of times as a dry run to get familiar with the instal. mask around the top well and the body around the top. Mask the top above the sealing area. Apply the new butyl tape to the car where the old tape was. Apply butyl calking above and below the tape in a bead--avoid getting it in the bolt holes. Carefully lower the top into place. Bolt the top in reverse of removal. Reattach the electrical connector and top hoist. Replace the moldings and foam inserts. Check fit and adjust as needed. This is from memory, so anyone please correct me where I have misremembered.

[FormulaLT1]

Thanks, thats really good to know. Did you replace anything else as part of the project?

As in, as part of just the top replacement?, cause I replaced and am still in the process of replacing a ton of stuff on my car but as far as what I replaced just related to the top. I replaced the cable and installed butyl tape to help seal the sealing frame. I did just took a old fashion steak knife between the body and sealing frame (be very careful if you use this method around the area the straps) and the frame came out in perfect shape pretty easily.

[RedRedZ]

Just ordered a top from autotopsdirect. The rain gutter above the window is the cherry on top for me. That's honestly one of my biggest complaints about the design of our tops both soft and hard; if you roll the window down when the car is wet, you get soaked.

Planning to install over christmas, I'll report back then.

I'm thinking of this one as well.
For anyone interested thereis a good youtube video of a top replacement.
Part 1
[ame]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=uyxy50jfkhY[/ame]
Part 2
[ame]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=rGiDhxNkOKc[/ame]

[Blacklane]

I did my top last winter (actually just new sealing frame and butyl seals; my top was fine). With that area opened up, it's a great time to run RCA cables from the stereo head unit to the trunk for an aftermarket head unit and amplifier. Note that the cables should go on the side opposite the battery to avoid alternator noise from the battery cable. I also welded nut plates in the boot area to mount the amplifier on the front wall of the trunk.

It's also a great time to replace the rear shock mounts with aftermarket Rogue Engineering or Ireland Engineering units. I also replaced the rear shocks, but that was based on my car's needs.