My dad took our roadster into day to have a few this's and thats done. One of which is that the drivers seat is rocking again less than a year after the bushing s were replaced (with the BMW fix). We were just going to have them do that again but the story takes a unique turn here.... Since I have moved to Iowa for grad school I was not there so the facts may be slightly mistaken.... But it seems the dealership says the drivers seat needs $2,000 (yes two-thousand) dollars worth of work done???? They want to replace the base and I don't know what else. Has anyone every heard of this?? I was floored! *rant over*!!
Anyway... We are going to buy the improved bushings and do the job ourselves the next time I go to visit my parents! Should make for a fun project if nothing else!
Chris
Far from new, probably one of the oldest documented failures on the Z3.
Replace it with the proper aftermarket bushings. And for your own sake, please stop getting your 10+ year old BMW serviced at dealerships... surprised you havent had to take up a second mortgage doing that so far.
We've replaced the bushings once before with the BMW fix (not the aftermarket ones that seem to be much better). I was just shocked that they want to darn near replace the entire seat this time around.
As for the dealership.... Since we've done so much business with them we get parts pretty much at cost (sometimes less) and pretty large discounts on labor. Plus they know how particular we are. They only other place in town that I would trust working on a BMW flat out tried to rip us off once... SO.....
Chris
Try it with the aftermarket ones and let us know if it fares any better. BMW has a "subframe failure" fix as well in Europe that I have heard less than stellar things about, so I am willing to wager that the problem will be completely alleviated with the aftermarket fix.
Understandable your relationship with the dealer - and while they arent neccesarily screwing you over on prices ($2k is about MSRP for a new seat base) the problem is they wont ever be willing to work with used parts on these old cars, whereas an independant mechanic will work with completely fine used parts that would in this case be 1/8 the price and be an entire new seat not just the base. You could upgrade to M seats for that price! Honestly I have friends at BMW dealerships who dont even service their cars there. Not trying to knock you down, just trying to help you (or rather I suppose, your family) save a few bucks. Its just something to keep in mind - saving a penny on repairing the car can be a penny spent on upgrading the carBut if you have nowhere else to go what can you do...
Last edited by BimmerBreaker; 09-21-2012 at 10:23 PM.
Take the seat out yourself - about 10 minutes work - and then find out what's broken. If it's rocking: it's either the bushing, again; or it's the base has come unscrewed from the upper, or like mine the bolt had sheared off - again, a 50 cent and 10 minute fix. Beyond that if push really comes to shove - you can buy a whole replacement seat either here or on eBay for a couple hundred dollars (honest Z3 seat, not aftermarket). Either way: tell the stealer to shove it up... on second thought, I'll be polite... let's just say you'd be much better served doing this yourself. The seats are very easy to work on.
This is what we are going to do! And thanks for your words of wisdom from both of you! At least by taking it out we'll KNOW what we need to do! Plus It'll be fun! I love a good project! Also.... I hadn't really though about the whole used parts thing before let alone the dealership not wanting to work with them... Ill definitely have to start looking for some used stuff. The problem is... The car only has 16,000 miles on it.. so finding less used parts than that may be kinda hard! Haha (its an 01 M btw)
Chris
Since it doesn't sound like you work on your own vehicles much and rely on the stealers. Know that there are some specialty tools, safety isssues, and airbag indicator lights to concern yourself with. All the information to be safe is posted here or on youtube. Review it before you start anything. Enjoy
If it has only 16k miles - I wouldn't be looking at used, but fix'n what you've got - my guess is the bolts which hold the base to the seat have come lose. But if push does come to shove, yes finding something that's the new will be difficult, but is possible; but since we're talking the base, even if you have to use a 40k mile'r who's going to look? But as they say: a good definition of the problem is 95% of its solution - pull it out and see what you've got. Then go from there.
yes, he should check... but if I remember correctly, as long the key is out of the ignition while anything is unplugged he should be ok (or at least that's the case on my '99)... but again: do check before doing - live longer and happier that way.
Last edited by gmushial; 09-21-2012 at 11:03 PM. Reason: Automerged Doublepost
I was wondering this. We do some work ourselves. Usually what we don't finis anything that requires a lift or that requires welding. I also avoid electronics like the plague hahaOriginally Posted by no voice of rea
Chris
2k worth of parts!? Are they nuts? They probably would fix it with the whalen bushings lol
2002 Alpine White w/ Black 368 (<OO \(||][||)/ OO>)
Power: Custom Exhaust w/ High Flow cats, CSL headers, built, low-compression Supercharged and aftercooled S-54, ViPEC standalone ECU, Vortech V2 Si trim
Driveline: Euro 6 speed, 3.64 diff w/ 40% Lockup, Rogue Octane SSK, UUC Red TME kit, UUC Stage 3 LTW Flywheel/M5 Clutch, SS Shift Knob
Suspension & Brakes: TC Kline True Match Coilovers 500f/500r w/ adjustable camber plates, Racing Dynamics sways, Custom front sway endlinks, ATE fluid, UUC/Willwood BBK 6 piston f - 4 piston r , Slotted E46M3 Rotors, Stainless Lines, Strong Strut, IE Subframe & adjustable rear trailing arm bushings
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Coming soon:and a visit to Randy Forbes
The highest dollar figure that I've heard so far is $6,000 total to repair both seats, from a fellow in Switzerland. His dealer must have planning his retirement to the south of France!
He couldn't thank me enough, after I saved him $5,970. And the seats are actually FIXED!!![]()
Not to hijack the thread, but my passenger side seat has a little forward/backward play, which I think is probably due to slightly worn seat rail bushings? I also noticed that the passenger seat motor makes a louder/rougher noise when moving the seat forth and back. Is this normal? I'm assuming since this seat doesn't get used nearly as much as the driver seat, maybe the motors end up noisier due to lack of use? They are fully functional both horizontally and vertically.
Any advise will be greatly appreciated, as well as what bushings are recommended for replacement. I have read on some threads that some vendors sell the entire pieces, whereas others sell the slim bushings that slide into the square-ish pieces?
Thanks!
The post directly above yours from whamac is the key to this issue,
whamac is Doug Whalen, and he is the guru of repair bushings for seats.
Drop him a note, get the bushings, and spend a couple hours getting to know your seats. When you get done, enjoy the knowledge you did a cool job, and fixed it well.
And just so all of these recently bumped threads have the link: http://www.whalenshiftmachine.com/in...411c632db402c9
Thank you very much fellas!!!![]()
Am I the only one confused by the terminology here?
To me, sliding and rocking are two very different things. I've replaced 4 sets of seat bushings and that always cures the sliding issue. The rocking like a rocking chair however, I'm still dealing with. I've tried the "shove a penny between the rail and the bottom of the seat fix" but that hasn't solved my problem. I can still feel some play when I lean from front to back. Do I just need to take the seats out and tighten every bolt I can find under there?
The seats in these cars just seem flimsy to me. Anyone else agree?
Cooper
'00 Alpine III M Roadster (2017-Present)
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