Replacing seat bushings.

[loflyingz]

I need to replace the seat bushings in my '98 Z3 Roadster. I'm ordering new bushings from Doug Whalen. How difficult is it to replace the bushings? How long does it take to do each seat? Is there a step by step tutorial with photos or a you tube video detailing the procedure?

[Matt Day]

[ame="http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=DM4KSnA58EI"]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=DM4KSnA58EI[/ame]
[ame="http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=GRxrPelM9G0"]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=GRxrPelM9G0[/ame]
[ame="http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=7fdDHzykwOo"]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=7fdDHzykwOo[/ame]

Figure on an hour or so for the first one. Maybe 20 minutes for the second.

[E.Hands]

Wait now, what? Doug who? I've never heard of such a thing...


sorry

[Randy Forbes]

Wait now, what? Doug who? I've never heard of such a thing...


sorry

I can do them for you, along with...

[BlitzAction]

Figure on an hour or so for the first one. Maybe 20 minutes for the second.

I attempted this over the weekend (by following the youtube videos posted above). After removing the seats I was able to take out the two T25 bolts, but cannot get the slides to come down far enough to remove the T50 bolt. I know it shows the sliding part well below the T50 bolt, but in practice I could not get it to go down remotely close.

Anyone run into this same issue?

[JWin]

This has been covered extensively but the task is much easier than even the video/tutorials make it out to be.

Key things:
1) Remember to slide the seat all the way back after removing the rear bolts and before disconnecting.
2) Count, in half turns, how many rotations it takes to remove the bushing carrier/mount and put it back on the same amount.
3) Those connectors are a fucking pain - reattach the female side to the seat before putting it back in the car. It's way easier to attach the male connector this way than try to reattach the whole unit with your hand under the seat.

[RickySixx6]

This has been covered extensively but the task is much easier than even the video/tutorials make it out to be.

Key things:

3) Those connectors are a fucking pain - reattach the female side to the seat before putting it back in the car. It's way easier to attach the male connector this way than try to reattach the whole unit with your hand under the seat.

I like to have the seat tilted, bottom facing the opposite seat, assure the railing is rested on the edge close by to where the "M Roadster/Coupe" logo is when you step inside your car. While the seat is leaning against you... balanced on the edge of the car - attach the wires (they should be long enough to reach) with both hands while having the back rest sit on your lap. Once connected tilt that seat up a bit and slide into its place.

[JWin]

I like to have the seat tilted, bottom facing the opposite seat, assure the railing is rested on the edge close by to where the "M Roadster/Coupe" logo is when you step inside your car. While the seat is leaning against you... balanced on the edge of the car - attach the wires (they should be long enough to reach) with both hands while having the back rest sit on your lap. Once connected tilt that seat up a bit and slide into its place.

I'm not a fan of things with sharp edges moving around in the interior any more than they have to. I don't trust myself to not hit the leather or other precious items.

[wmcq6]

So I have pulled the threaded rods, replaced the bushings, they move freely up and down the rods.
Set the guide at about 4 threads from the end (where they came out at)
Put them back in rails, L on the side with the L on bottom of the rail (must of been done before because someone thought seal rubber was good, freaking a mess) torx bolt in, 2 additional to attach rails to guide block.
installed seat and it just isn't moving as freely as it did.
Question: Does it matter which way the blocks are threaded onto the rods (like if I thread a rod is it opposing direction). I've pulled them apart a couple of times checking to see if something is binding...nope. This last time it seems if I pull the 2 torx out it moves in the opposite direction, will pull again tonight to make sure I wasn't seeing things.
Figured I'd ask.

[Randy Forbes]

Sounds like the threaded blocks aren't "timed" right. Try this: loosen all four (4) fasteners (2 bolts, 2 nuts) holding the seat to the floor and operate it through the full range fore & aft. If it's now moving freely__enough__tighten the bolt/nut on one (1) track and see it it will still move as easily. Tighten the remaining set and test again.

It'll either move like you think it should, or it won't and you can try moving one (1) of the threaded blocks a thread...

[wmcq6]

So I have pulled the threaded rods, replaced the bushings, they move freely up and down the rods.
Set the guide at about 4 threads from the end (where they came out at)
Put them back in rails, L on the side with the L on bottom of the rail (must of been done before because someone thought seal rubber was good, freaking a mess) torx bolt in, 2 additional to attach rails to guide block.
installed seat and it just isn't moving as freely as it did.
Question: Does it matter which way the blocks are threaded onto the rods (like if I thread a rod is it opposing direction). I've pulled them apart a couple of times checking to see if something is binding...nope. This last time it seems if I pull the 2 torx out it moves in the opposite direction, will pull again tonight to make sure I wasn't seeing things.
Figured I'd ask.

Update: so it appears I mixed up which rod the L block was on (when you pushed the button to go forward it went backwards) Pulled it all apart again, switched rod sides, set for proper 5 threads in
, put it all together and walla, it operates. Not as smooth but it goes. Will probably pull it apart someday and switch blocks on the rods and try one more time. But hey the passenger seat went really easy since I already did the drivers sides like 8 times....and it works nice and smooth, and both seats are firmly in pace with no sliding! Win Win!

[whamac]

That's why I mention in my instructions not to get the screws reversed.
(Sorry; couldn't help it. )

[AHT]

Yep-one of the screws is a left hand thread, the other is normal. Look for the "L" on the central block thingy. Bizarrely, that seems to go on the right side of the seat.

I did mine today-hardest part was holding the seats up while undoing the wire plugs. In the end after messing around with props (not successful) i tied a nice soft piece of rope from one front wheel, round the back of the seat, and back to the other front wheel. The rope held the seat up against the top frame of the windscreen so I could easily get to the wires. Once the seat is unbolted, remember to slide it right back electrically, then disconnect the battery. Apparently this saves you having to reset the airbag light.

Cheers
www.adelaidehillstouring.com

[TheVawtz]

What size socket is needed to remove the rear floor hex bolts for the seats that hold the rail to the floor?
I thought it was a 17mm socket, but it does not seem to fit it snug, nor does it seem to get all the way down through the circular upper portion of the rail to the bolt.

Enlighten me

[Eurospec]

What size socket is needed to remove the rear floor hex bolts for the seats that hold the rail to the floor?
I thought it was a 17mm socket, but it does not seem to fit it snug, nor does it seem to get all the way down through the circular upper portion of the rail to the bolt.

Enlighten me

16mm. You might be better off using a 3/8" or 1/4" drive due to the confined space

[whamac]

What size socket is needed to remove the rear floor hex bolts for the seats that hold the rail to the floor?
I thought it was a 17mm socket, but it does not seem to fit it snug, nor does it seem to get all the way down through the circular upper portion of the rail to the bolt.

Enlighten me

I've always used a 5/8" socket.

[e31gixxxer]

These cars are Metric, why would you use tools dating from the dawn of the industrial revolution on them?

[whamac]

Because a 5/8" socket is only .005" smaller than a 16mm, and works fine. Technically, it's a better fit!

Besides, as a toolmaker of 35 years, I absolutely hate it when a customer sends me a metric print and I have to sit here and convert everything over.
Sure, ours is a crummy system; much too complicated, compared to the metric system. But it works. :-)

[Fred Wetzel]

How do I reset the air bag light?