As it's gotten colder this season, I've noticed that I have almost no heat in the Z3. The most common cause appears to be entrapped air, and although the reservoir needed about 1/3L to top off, I'm pretty sure I don't have any air. I followed the bleed procedure, and no bubbles are is coming out, only liquid coolant.
Oddly, I seemed to be getting quite a bit more heat running the motor at idle with the cap off than I get at highway RPM/speed. Maybe because I have no (cold) ram air coming into the radiator?
The car also seems to be running slightly cooler than it does in the summer, according to the temp gauge--in the summer, the needle points straight up, and now it's about 1/3 of the way between straight up and the index mark to the left of center. I understand that the gauge is computer controlled and doesn't move linearly with actual coolant temperature. This makes me think the thermostat is partially stuck open, but I thought I'd ask...
I've got just under 90k miles, and have not (yet) replaced the water pump, although I'm planning to soon.
Thanks,
Heath
Failed water pump?
Does the air temp selector knob turn easily without any resistance? If so, it could be that the lever behind the knob and sheared. I just had to fix mine about a week ago.
Brian
-Abel
- E36 328is ~210-220whp: Lots of Mods.
- 2000 Z3: Many Mods.
- 2003 VW Jetta TDI Manual 47-50mpg
- 1999 S52 Estoril M Coupe
- 2014 328d Wagon, self-tuned, 270hp/430ft-lbs
- 2019 M2 Competition, self-tuned, 504whp
- 2016 Mini Cooper S
It's common for the thermostats in these cars to go bad. In the summer ambient temps are high enough that it isn't as big of a factor but in the winter the temp guage will act as you described, not coming all the way up to normal position because the thermostat hangs open.
Replace your thermostat and all should be well...
Last edited by dkindig; 01-20-2012 at 01:42 PM.
I'm also thinking thermostat.
-Dusty
05' BMW 325ci, Sapphire Black
14' Porsche 981, Guards Red
17' Tesla Model-X, Deep Blue
81' DeLorean, Stainless Steel
If the car isnt getting up to temperature it will not have enough "extra heat" through the heater core to heat you. Same reason it takes awhile for hot air to come through after a cold start.
I dont think its the thermostat. Is the heater core clogged? It seems like at idle while there isnt extra air going through the radiator that the car gets closer to "at temp" and then you have heat, whereas when driving its cooling dare I say "too efficiently" and it doesnt have the extra heat.
Im sure if I stated some of my car's behaviour here people would blame the thermostat, but I know its fine - it reads accurately, if I drive hard the thermo and the oil temp will read dead center, otherwise at low-rpm around town driving my oil temp is at the first tick and my thermostat never gets to the "middle" - but I do still have heat, which is why I say look at your heater core.
Your thermostat is stuck (failed) open.
Mods: Remus 76mm exhaust, CDV delete, ASA AR1 18in staggered wheels, Turner 12 mm spacers, custom red tails, Kenwood deck/Sirius/BT/USB, ZHP knob, Redline boot, LeatherZ armrest, Amsoil all around, red needles, Akebono Euro brake pads, 34k original miles!
Could be a stuck water valve (aka heater control valve). 64 11 8 375 443
John
2000 BMW Z3 2.3 5 speed
2007 Toyota Tacoma 4X4 6 speed
1971 Chevrolet Vega V8 4 speed
2006 Ducati Monster S2R
1995 BMW R1100RS
1974 BMW R90/6
1992 ATK 406
Assorted Bultacos scattered about
I believe it effects the flow of coolant to the heater core. No hot coolant equals no hot air.
John
2000 BMW Z3 2.3 5 speed
2007 Toyota Tacoma 4X4 6 speed
1971 Chevrolet Vega V8 4 speed
2006 Ducati Monster S2R
1995 BMW R1100RS
1974 BMW R90/6
1992 ATK 406
Assorted Bultacos scattered about
True, but the caveat is the engine isn't getting to temperature....thermostat....Originally Posted by MrTorque
Insufficient funds...
I had air in my coolant lines. Take it to a shop and they can force the air out!!! He comes right back!
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