Window Regulator Problem :(

[MCoupeRulez]

Hoping you guys could help me out. And I have exhaused the search option by the way...

Yesterday, I rolled my passenger window down. (Its been going up and down slowly for a few weeks now) However, this time, when I tried to roll it up it goes up about 3-4 inches and stops. It goes back down, and back up about 4 inches and it just stops, like something is holding it.
I took the door apart, replaced the sliders, and I do not see anything else wrong. I even tired removing the window, sliders, etc., and just tried moving the regulator with notthing attached to it, but the same thing happens.

Any ideas? or should I just go ahead and get a new regulator? And if so, how the hell do you get the regulator out? I tried but it just seems like the opening is way too small

TIA

[Randy Forbes]

Some people have had a brace inside the door crack (big surprise) or come unwelded, so look for something like that inhibiting it from going up more than a few inches.

No pictures, as I haven't seen a car with that problem yet (I don't even know what it looks like myself...).

[Z3racer701]

You may have seen my post when you searched:

http://forums.bimmerforums.com/forum...d.php?t=947839

Last year I went to a free version of Tripod, now I can't link to any of my pictures from there. I'll try to find my pictures on my T-byte drive...

Ah yes found them... First is how it looked when I pulled the door and panel. Second is the old regulator with a tear in the metal that goes over the boss that broke off. Third is the boss and nut that I found in the bottom of my door. Fourth is the boss re-welded onto the door beam, and finally the new regulator. I coated the welds in with chip paint, it looked good as new.

[MCoupeRulez]

Thanks alot for the quick responses! I will take some pictures tomorrow morning when I take the door apart again. I didn't see any breaks or broken parts, but I might have missed it.

Anyways, how do you remove the window regulator? do I have to remove the motor first?

Thanks again.

[Z3racer701]

First make sure you take all the conncting nuts off, and it should slide out of the opening in the door. My second picture is how the regulator came out of the car. It's really tight in there and I doubt anyone would be able to remove the regulator without the motor. First remove the door panel, it sounds like you've already done this, next remove the wing window, then the door window. Once all that's out there'll be enough room to remove the regulator.

[PbFut]

It also helps to have the assembly collapsed before removing. Tough when the motor is shot. I have both units if you need one.

[MCoupeRulez]

First make sure you take all the conncting nuts off, and it should slide out of the opening in the door. My second picture is how the regulator came out of the car. It's really tight in there and I doubt anyone would be able to remove the regulator without the motor. First remove the door panel, it sounds like you've already done this, next remove the wing window, then the door window. Once all that's out there'll be enough room to remove the regulator.

I'm trying to remove the regulator as we speak. I have become a pro at removing the door panels haha Since I couldn't figure it out, I took the whole driver's door apart, changed sliders, lubed it up, and its so much faster...anyways, back to the problem...could there be a regulator reset maybe? It seems as though it thinks that the window is at the top, when it stops about 4 inches above the door. When I take it all the way down, and I press the "down" button, I hear a click. When I have it to the top about 4 inches high, I press the "up" button again, but I do not hear the click...My question I guess is, how does the motor know when the window is at the top? I see a stopper in place for when the window goes down...but I don't see one for the way up.

It also helps to have the assembly collapsed before removing. Tough when the motor is shot. I have both units if you need one.

I might need the passenger regulator if I don't figure it out by today. My motor is fine. PM me your best price shipped. Thanks.

[PbFut]

Yes there is a reset proceedure. It's been so long I can't recall for sure. Seems like you roll the window down and hold the button in down position for a few seconds. Then roll all the way up, then all the way down again. Worth a try. I had a widow not go all the way up when it was half way up and I disconnected the battery for a few days. The reset fixed it but not sure what I described is correct proceedure.

Edit...NO that's not Right ... The reset goes like this. Roll the window down. Shut the door. With the key in driver door, lock the car and hold in lock position. The auto up will activate and reset all the windows.

[MCoupeRulez]

Sticky this thread!

PbFut, you are a life saver! I put both windows down, put the key in the door, turned it to lock for 5 seconds and wallah! the window went all the way up!

Thanks again for your words of wisdom. I'll have to write down that combo somewhere where I won't lose it.

[lokijibber]

I added the link to this thread in the DIY sticky

[MCoupeRulez]

Cool

[s8ilver]

Eh, what's 9 years after another post? I have problems today!

I've been having weird driver side window operation. The window will go up on auto-up, clunk, then go back down an inch or so. I can then seal it by pressing up again. It loses the auto-up and down at this point, unless I do a relearn.

I inspected my door internals last night. NOT GOOD. The boss on the door strengthening beam has sheared off (I took the nut off and the stud just spins around), and the part of the regulator where it attaches to the boss is spider cracked in three directions. The window motor mount has a tear that I tried to repair with JB weld and a steel stick. I hadn't known of the regulator boss issue when I did this repair, so when I tried the window after that repair, my repair failed yet again.

Anyone know the best source for a Coupe regulator these days? I think I can probably weld up the boss similar to post #3, and maybe re-repair the motor support area. Worst case, I need a new-ish door.

Also, how many points does the regulator bolt to the door. I see the bolt near the door handle side, at the boss in center of the door beam. Is the only other attachment up near the motor (2 nuts)?

Thanks all, and if anyone has a spare Jet Black II door lying around, holler at me!

[MPoweredBMW5]

I welded the piece back on (I found it in the bottom of the door along the edge). Took my welder 5 minutes to weld and the new regulator went in just fine. Let a welder know what you need and where and they can make it happen.

[SB4]

Anyone have any idea where to get the boss and nut shown if the third photo above? Mine is completely missing. I just pulled the regulator and it looks like the one in photo 2. Is it possible to weld around the boss without removing additional metal from the door?

[danomite]

Anyone have any idea where to get the boss and nut shown if the third photo above? Mine is completely missing. I just pulled the regulator and it looks like the one in photo 2. Is it possible to weld around the boss without removing additional metal from the door?

The boss and the nut should be floating around in the bottom of your door. They can't really go anywhere, so they're there somewhere. Happy hunting. ;-)

...and yes, you can re-weld the boss without removing any extra metal.

[s8ilver]

Well this should be fun. I was expecting more metal to work with. As many of you know, you can't see the full extent of the problem until you remove the regulator.

20180331_171126_resized.jpg20180331_171259_resized.jpg20180331_171604_resized.jpg20180331_171611_resized.jpg20180331_163933_resized.jpg

Is there any reason I can't use those existing two holes for a bracket on the backside, with a thru bolt to hold the regulator? I cut a bracket out of stainless, and a 1/4" x 2" bolt seems like it's about the exact right length as the original boss. I can fine tune the projection with a washer or two on the back side if necessary and throw a washer and couple nuts on the front side to get the standoff just right. I could even fill the void with a piece of round tube or a stack of washers. Tough to weld when there's nothing to weld to.

It was fun driving with the window all the way "down" though.

[Randy Forbes]

As good of a solution as I'd come up with!

Maybe force yourself to drive around a week or so with out the panel on, to make sure it doesn't loosen itself up.

Go for it!

[rf900rkw]

I cut out the face of the bracket and fabricate a new piece out of 1/8" steel strap. Weld a bolt into the proper position, then weld the new piece into the bracket. I then triangulate across the top to try and cut down on the flexing.


regulator-cut.jpg

[s8ilver]

As good of a solution as I'd come up with!

Maybe force yourself to drive around a week or so with out the panel on, to make sure it doesn't loosen itself up.

Go for it!

It's been off for at least a month now, as I was working up in the area where the window motor lives. I can go another week without a sweat.

- - - Updated - - -

I cut out the face of the bracket and fabricate a new piece out of 1/8" steel strap. Weld a bolt into the proper position, then weld the new piece into the bracket. I then triangulate across the top to try and cut down on the flexing.


regulator-cut.jpg

The challenge is getting a tool in there to cut with...might be a Dremel and file job. It's a bit snug. I'll mull it over, but I like the triangulation idea. A boxed in section would do wonders for the flex.

I should have been more proactive with the window slider maintenance, but it may have already been messed up when I bought the car. I did find 3 or 4 washers in the bottom of the door, so someone definitely tried a hasty repair prior.

I do have a fresh regulator and sliders ready to go in when the time comes. The original regulator is also torn in several places near that mounting location. Somehow, all the spot welds near the motor are intact.

[rf900rkw]

I've done a few now, including both of my coupes.

https://www.harborfreight.com/air-to...ool-68832.html

Plus

https://www.harborfreight.com/air-to...der-62552.html


will get the job done quite quickly.


It's not the spot welds that tear. Grab a flash light and closely inspect the pads around where the regulator mounts. Those will be torn.

[s8ilver]

It's not the spot welds that tear. Grab a flash light and closely inspect the pads around where the regulator mounts. Those will be torn.

I thought so too, but they're intact somehow. The upper of the two holes is slightly elongated, but I've got a serrated washer for that.

I did get a small tear though that I'm working on...

20161020_144746.jpg

Here's the upper bolt. I knew I had a pic somewhere...

20161020_151348.jpg

[s8ilver]

Good enough for me...

20180407_120043.jpg

And just barely clears the bump out in the regulator...

20180407_132542.jpg

So far so good, except window is a bit chattery when going up. I can see the center shaft of the window motor wobbling from side to side, almost like it's worn out and struggling to work smoothly. I guess I'll replace that when it dies, but I'm happy for now. Window seals properly, doesn't catch on the door seal anymore, and the auto functions actually work again! I had no idea how much adjustment could be made with that little corner window. I feel like I can set it in 10 different positions. I finally got a good shut line all the way around and called it a day.

[s8ilver]

Well, I feel dumb. I had mentioned that my window was a bit chattery when going up. Turns out BMW used "shims" (washers) to set the height of the triangular corner window (this also slightly moves the distance between the main window and the track). This explains the washers I found in the bottom of the door. I had no idea.

#7:

http://www.realoem.com/bmw/enUS/show...diagId=51_3643

Anywho, added a couple "shims" back in and the window functions perfectly. No binding and buttery smooth. Time to tackle the other 3 doors and their worn sliders...

I actually think doing the sliders is a more complete job if you take the glass out. It's all of 3 bolts to get both windows out and you can really clean the old hard grease out of the tracks much more thoroughly.