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Thread: EVAP shut off valve?

  1. #1
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    EVAP shut off valve?

    Hey. SO I have a CEL about the "EVAP shut off valve". Does anyone know what this is and/or how to fix this? I need to get my smog check done but can't b/c of this CEL. Please help me out.
    Thanks,
    Marvin

    btw, i have a 1997 S52 in my 318ti. Everything was swapped into it from the donor car.

  2. #2
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    Not sure but I think it's #14 here. http://www.realoem.com/bmw/showparts...39&hg=11&fg=45 or #2 here http://www.realoem.com/bmw/showparts...02&hg=16&fg=10 Is the gas cap on tight?
    Last edited by jmo69; 07-16-2009 at 11:08 PM.

    Gave away my BMWs, driving a VW and an Audi now.

  3. #3
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    #2 in the second diagram. It's under the spare tire.

    #14 in the first is part of the secondary air injection system, not the evaporative emissions system.

  4. #4
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    yeah the gas cap is on tight as it can be. could be also caused from old hoses that lead to and from the secondary air pump?

  5. #5
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    Why would it? EVAP doesn't have anything to do with secondary air injection.

  6. #6
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    Quote Originally Posted by funkymarcus View Post
    Why would it? EVAP doesn't have anything to do with secondary air injection.
    oh it doesnt? well see, that i didnt know. thanks for reassuring me. so its the #2 part in the second link provide then?
    i have to locate it on my E35 since its not a coupe or sedan, i have a ti. so i think its in a different spot.

  7. #7
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    okay. so i went ahead and ordered the part that connected to the carbon canister. Replaced that the other day. Resetted the CEL and within 60 miles the CEL turned back on. Then I swapped out the other valve next to the alternator and manifold that has this blue line connected to it. Resetted the CEL again and drove for 50 miles. Light came back on.
    What else should i look into and check?? I need help!!! Need to pass smog so I can get tags... :-/

  8. #8
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    unplug your battery around the corner from smog test facility-it should give enuf time to get u through gl

  9. #9
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    Quote Originally Posted by Marv17 View Post
    okay. so i went ahead and ordered the part that connected to the carbon canister. Replaced that the other day. Resetted the CEL and within 60 miles the CEL turned back on. Then I swapped out the other valve next to the alternator and manifold that has this blue line connected to it. Resetted the CEL again and drove for 50 miles. Light came back on.
    What else should i look into and check?? I need help!!! Need to pass smog so I can get tags... :-/
    You can check vapor lines and the fuel tank pressure sensor.

    Tell us what the exact code you're getting is. So far you've only said "EVAP shutoff valve," but there are a few codes that relate to that. The specific code (or codes) could provide more clues.

    Quote Originally Posted by rooster View Post
    unplug your battery around the corner from smog test facility-it should give enuf time to get u through gl
    Yeah, that's not likely to work.

  10. #10
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    Quote Originally Posted by funkymarcus View Post
    You can check vapor lines and the fuel tank pressure sensor.

    Tell us what the exact code you're getting is. So far you've only said "EVAP shutoff valve," but there are a few codes that relate to that. The specific code (or codes) could provide more clues.
    well i've been using my peake tool i bought a while ago. It says chart 16 which is for the 6cyl e36 and then #33 "evap shutoff valve"
    However when the guy at the smog test faciltiy plugged his OBDII scanner I saw code P1403 pending. That's all I've been reading and getting. Nothing else on the peake tool pops up. I'm clueless what to look at next and would rather not go to a shop or even the dealer for fixing. That'd be my last resort.

  11. #11
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    Quote Originally Posted by Marv17 View Post
    well i've been using my peake tool i bought a while ago. It says chart 16 which is for the 6cyl e36 and then #33 "evap shutoff valve"
    However when the guy at the smog test faciltiy plugged his OBDII scanner I saw code P1403 pending.
    OK, cool, those two codes are the same thing.

    That code identifies an electrical fault between the DME and the EVAP shutoff valve. The DME is detecting a disconnected component or a short to ground or battery voltage. Essentially, if it sees the solenoid current go out of tolerance, it sets a code.

    Since you say you're on your second shutoff valve and it's working, you should probably focus on the wiring between it and the DME. You (or whomever swapped the engine) might have missed something.

    The EVAP shutoff valve control from the DME should be on pin 51, a green/blue wire. It goes through a couple of connectors on its way to the shutoff valve. The DME grounds this wire to operate the valve. The other wire to the valve should be powered (via a fuse) when the key is in the accessory, run, or start position. It's fuse 2, 5A, in a "normal" E36. No idea if the 'ti is any different.
    Last edited by funkymarcus; 07-27-2009 at 10:44 PM.

  12. #12
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    Quote Originally Posted by funkymarcus View Post
    OK, cool, those two codes are the same thing.

    That code identifies an electrical fault between the DME and the EVAP shutoff valve. The DME is detecting a disconnected component or a short to ground or battery voltage. Essentially, if it sees the solenoid current go out of tolerance, it sets a code.

    Since you say you're on your second shutoff valve and it's working, you should probably focus on the wiring between it and the DME. You (or whomever swapped the engine) might have missed something.

    The EVAP shutoff valve control from the DME should be on pin 51, a green/blue wire. It goes through a couple of connectors on its way to the shutoff valve. The DME grounds this wire to operate the valve. The other wire to the valve should be powered (via a fuse) when the key is in the accessory, run, or start position. It's fuse 2, 5A, in a "normal" E36. No idea if the 'ti is any different.

    crap. alright. I'll have to check it out. I hope it won't take long or be too difficult to find the wires for the valve.
    thanks for your help. Anything else you can tell me or suggest?? or any pictures/diagrams?
    thanks.

  13. #13
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    Quote Originally Posted by Marv17 View Post
    crap. alright. I'll have to check it out. I hope it won't take long or be too difficult to find the wires for the valve.
    thanks for your help. Anything else you can tell me or suggest?? or any pictures/diagrams?
    thanks.
    If you've got a Bentley, you can find this on ELE-85.

    I'd start with the easy side and make sure you get 12V at one of the terminals of the valve's connector when the engine is running. This should be the terminal with the red-white wire.

    If that's no good, I'd check continuity between the other terminal and the proper pin on the DME harness connector.

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