I have seen may reports of people getting airbag lights out of the blue. I feel like many of these are caused by flaky wiring/connectors. For a while, I had an SRS light that was tied to the driver-side seat buckle (Peake table 02, code 10). I would clear the code, and it would come back after a couple weeks or a day. Since it never came back immediately, or even at a regular interval, it struck me as likely that the device wasn't actually bad.
What I did to fix it was clean all the under-seat connectors with DeoxIT. After cleaning the connections and resetting the fault code, it has not come back. My father also fixed some intermittent "Check X lamp" warnings on his e39 by cleaning the connections. I highly recommend that anyone with such problems give DeoxIT a try before they buy any parts.
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I did the same and so far so good- deoxit can be found in most Radio Shacks for around $14.
Deoxit sounds cheaper than the BMW recommended contact enhancer, Stabilant-22. It seems to be available from some audiophile web sites for the cheapest prices.
phrider
2001 Titanium Silver M Roadster with hardtop
1998 Titanium Silver E36 M3 Coupe
Former cars: Saab 900 Turbo, Rabbit, 1967 Chevy II, 1951 Packard Ultramatic Coupe (0-60 in under 0.3 minutes)
Thank you for sharing. I have the same problem. My SRS light come out sometimes when I move the seat. Its the seat buckle problem too.
2011 Mini Countryman All4 *** Wife Daily!
2002 E39 Sedan 540i M Sport. *** Daily!
2000 M-Coupe (Titan Silver)***Weekend fun!
I tried a number of contact enhancers/anti-corrosives, but I got the SRS within a week of having it reset. After having it reset five times and after trying all of the techniques in the service bulletins, my mechanic built a new harness/splice for me and I've not had an SRS light for months. It sounds like the connectors get beyond repair.
Now, if I could just get my stupid ebrake light to stop lighting up after the car warms up...
2000 Z3M Coupe, Cosmos Black, Supercharged: Randy Forbes' magic subframe kit, Vortech/Dinan Supercharger, TCKlien DA front and rear suspension, TCKlien Camber Plates, H&R front sway, Clutchmasters FX300 w/LW steel FW, UUC tranny mount brace, UUC SS clutch line with CDV delete, Turner Shorty Headers, B&B TriFlo exhaust, SS brake lines, dual-ear E36 M3 diff, IE subframe bushings, Whalen Shift Machine and E-brake handle, PLX DM100 gauge+sensors, aftermarket audio, Apex wheel studs, and even a Euro glovebox/driver's side knee panel swap"BMW - Designed by Germans, driven by tossers." --Jeremy Clarkson
SOLD 2006 Z4M Coupe, Sepang Bronze: Stromung exhaust, DFK Section 1 w/resonators, RPI ram air intake, and Whalen Shift Machine.
BMW CCA #375064
My local shop wants about $400 to remove the passenger seat, resolder the connector, and replace the seat.
I'm pretty handy with a soldering iron - I did the c33 business radio fix myself. But I don't know how to remove the passenger seat. Is it easy? Where can I find instructions?
1998 328i e36
-ms
If this hasn't been linked in the FAQ, it might be a good idea to add it, given how common airbag lights/codes are on our cars.
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I used CRC contact cleaner and had similar results. No SRS light for 6 months now.
...probably will come on tomorrow now...
protip: If you're reading the post above, it's probably a joke.
Added this to the FAQ.
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I to had the SRS lamp on problem, bought a peak reset tool and took out the drivers seat.
Proceeded to remove the Molex connectors used by BMW since the late 80's (My 325E has AMP (now TYCO) connectors.
Replaced with a waterproof connector medical grade, reset codes and no more problems.
It has been 3 years now![]()
I don't think you can get a socket on that bolt. A 16mm ratcheting wrench helps, though.
DeoxIT is better than regular contact cleaner. It is supposed to prevent the contacts from getting corroded again. If you look around for info on contact cleaners, it's the standard for audio/electronics/etc.
i ran into a similar problem when i picked-up mine a month or so ago. the carfax checked out, and the engine seemed to be in great condition...no major leaks, ran smooth, didn't overheat. the previous owner painted some interior pieces red, installed a pretty bad aftermarket radio, etc.
well, i was changing out some of the interior components when i noticed a VERY dim airbag lighti just thought to myself, "oh no." i bought some new cluster lights and sure enough, there it was in all of its disgusting glory.
after i removed some of the old radio equipment, i noticed that there are two yellow plugs not plugged into anything (the airbag module seems to be in tact with the only plug that could go into it plugged in). then when i removed the tweeters he had in, there are yellow connectors on each side that are also not plugged into anything. any ideas where these things go?
also, i am in the process of removing some of the old dynamat in the trunk and found that there is a bundle of wires CUT in the trunk. WTF!?! can't really complain since i got the car for really cheap
there are also two yellow harnesses in the door panels, right next to the tweeter connectors. any ideas what those could be?
The dealer replaced the whole SRS wire harness on my car and the light hasnt returned for almost 2 years now. cost was 1100 bux tho (their dime not mine)
i am told that the big bundle of wires that were cut in the trunk might have been for the amp. however, the yellow plugs leave me a bit worried. in japanese cars, anything yellow is associated with the airbag. it seems that in this car, the color is either orange or yellow.
yeah, definitely had aftermarket. didn't know those yellow connectors in the door and the center console were for the mids though, thanks for that info. i think i'm just going to bite the bullet and buy the airbag reset tool. after doing some research, it seems like the airbag light is a pretty common occurrence, especially with older cars.
Bringing this one back from the dead with questions...
My Airbag light is on & off at different times... I've noticed it triggered by passengers shifting positions in the seat. I'm hoping its not a defective matt. I'd like to try cleaning the plugs first to see if it helps, but I'm wondering one thing...
If you unplug one of those plugs to clean it with the battery connected but the car is off (keys not in ignition) will it trigger a permanent warning light?
I ask because my light is intermittent, and I'd rather spare myself the time/expense of finding a reset tool if possible!
I think you'll be ok as long as the key isn't in, but why risk it? I prefer to disconnect the battery before any electrical work (IE: unplugging a harness). It's so incredibly simple to do, it adds at most 60 seconds to any job.
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