Engine Mounts Installed (finally)

[EganM]

I bought my Vorshlag engine mounts a few months ago but only recently had the time to put them in. The installation is pretty straight forward. I was a bit dismayed that my Bentley Manual was completely useless in this endeavour, but the Vorshlag online instructions (written for the E36) were enough of a guide to get it done.

The whole prcoess took about an hour and a half, but knowing what I do now, it could be done in 30-45 minutes.

First I pulled off the front wheels and all of the underside aero mouldings. Next I turned my attention to the topside. Remove any strut bar you may have installed because it could get in the way when you go to raise the engine.

On the S54 (maybe on other engines, but I can't confirm) you can't even see the nut on the top of the engine mount on the passenger side. There are two heat shields in the way.

[EganM]

Of course, to get the heat shield out, you have to remove what I'm assuming is the EGR:

[EganM]

With that out of the way, the top bolt will be visible:

[EganM]

Now remove the heatshield:

[EganM]

The driver's side is much easier, you'll just need to snake a few extensions down between the hoses:

[EganM]

Remove the top nuts on each side and head back under the car.

Loosen and remove the lower nuts on the engine mounts. Then you'll need to remove the cross brace in order to raise the engine:

[EganM]

I used a jack with a 2x4 to raise the engine via the oil pan. With the engine up about as far as it would go (fan hitting the radiator), I could get in and pull the engine mounts out.

[EganM]

With the old mounts out, I installed the new ones (there are keyholes and tabs for lining them up correctly), hand-tightened the lower nuts, and then lowered the car back down. Everything should drop right back into place, but I had to massage things a bit.

[EganM]

Here's the passenger side. You should re-install the stock heatshield on the engine mount.

[EganM]

With that done, torque the lower and upper nuts down to 33 ft-lbs (I couldn't get the torque wrench on the lower nuts so I just got them as tight as I could by hand. Then button everything back up.

How do they work? It will be a mixed bag for most people. The response from the car during shifting is greatly improved (this in combination with my UUC tranny mounts). When you clutch in to shift, the engine and drivetrain stay together, resulting in quicker shifts and an easier transition back on the gas. I also find it much easier to launch from a stop with the engine mounts. But there is greatly increased vibration at anything under 1000 rpm. This isn't a slight vibration - it's more like the massage feature in my lazyboy recliner at home. You can feel it in the seats and see it in the mirrors. Don't leave any spare change laying in the cupholders or you might go nuts.

For me, the performance increases are worth the vibration at every stoplight. And after about 200 miles, it has decreased slightly (or I've become very used to it). All in all, the engine mounts really do make a noticeable difference in the performance and driveability of the car.

[Randy Forbes]

Any difference in NVH?

That should help with the 2nd-to-3rd shift under full power, but I'm wondering about the trade-off for the rest of the time.

Do you already have urethane xmsn mounts?

[EganM]

Any difference in NVH?

That should help with the 2nd-to-3rd shift under full power, but I'm wondering about the trade-off for the rest of the time.

Do you already have urethane xmsn mounts?

See the post above yours. You were probably typing your response as I was finishing my last post.

[redcoupe]

I am confused, I asked how easy it is to install these a few days ago and I was told that it could be done all from underneath the car. Was yours more complicated bc its an s54??

[M Coupen It]

Did you ever experience any wheelhop during a burnout/fast launch before the new mounts? I bet you its gone now if you did!

[Randy Forbes]

See the post above yours. You were probably typing your response as I was finishing my last post.

Yes, I had to laugh.

I thought about immediately deleting my post, but I figured folks getting a laugh at my expense once in a while will help to dispel my super-human cyber status

[M Coupen It]

Yes, I had to laugh.

I thought about immediately deleting my post, but I figured folks getting a laugh at my expense once in a while will help to dispel my super-human cyber status

Once in a lifetime opportunity here!

[Randy Forbes]

I am confused, I asked how easy it is to install these a few days ago and I was told that it could be done all from underneath the car. Was yours more complicated bc its an s54??

I'm pretty sure I was able to remove/replace the upper nut from the underside (it's been a while now, so maybe I remember wrong...), but do keep in mind that I'm standing up when I work from under the car.


Also, using a 6" extension, you can get a torque wrench on the lower nut. I have to remove those nuts for every S-54 I upgrade the rod bearings on. The front xmbr has to be completely out of the way to get the oil pan off.

[EganM]

I left the front cross member in.

Which may also be why I couldn't reach/get a wrench on the upper nuts from down below.

[QuestMCoupe]

Great writeup!

[Z-Thrizzle]

Thanks for the write-up. I'm looking to do my engine mounts as well. I was looking to get oem or rogue engineering's http://www.rogueengineering.com/Merc...ct_Code=RE_PEM

I have access to an engine hoist. Do you think with the hoist I can do the job without removing the X-Brace? It'll be extra work for me since I would have to remove the body brace from the butt strutt.