Hello- I'm about to embark on the Leatherique re-dye, but would like thoughts from people who have done the full thing or seen the results.
My concern: Does it come out too Shiny/glossy looking?
I've been reading articles and seeing people's results and it looks really shinny. Almost like a coating of hard clear coat. Is this what really happens or is there a way to avoid that? I want the soft leather look.
Thoughts? Thanks!
Well, my complete interior Leatherique re-dye turn out rather dull, even though it looks very good, but it just lacks the satin sheen of new leather appearance that I prefer. It also has a slight, rough chalk liked characteristic to the finish. Apply it using a the brush method and it's hard to get a uniform appearance without brush marks. Part of the problem is the dye is very fast drying and if you have a lot of surface areas such as seats or door panels, so a nice, uniform coating becomes problematic. Tried the sponge method and that did not turn out too well. Think the spraying method using an air sprayer gun is the best way to go.
On the leather A pillar trims, I had use the SEM leather dye from a spray can and appearance wise, it does look a lot better (oem liked) than the Leatherique dyes. Only problem with the SEM dye cans is the very limited colors available.
My new project is to redye a leather interior for my 3.0 CSi, but this time, I will try the Colorbond leather dye product. Read many nice things about this spray can dye. http://www.colorbondtuner.com/ Colorbond products are available through many online retailers.
Here are some Leatherique dyed parts from my interior.
Last edited by M6csi; 04-27-2010 at 02:21 AM.
Bert
91 850i-A
1972 3.5 CSi (L-jet, Getrag 265 5 speed)
1988 ///M6
2021 X3 M40i
The back to back BIG COUPE” duo
I found that the key to good results with Leatherique is to remove as much of the old dye as possible. So when you think you've removed enough do it some more, leaving the leather with a kind of translucent quality. My color dye was black and it covered well and dried smoothly with minimum brush marks, although I worked the dye carefully with very soft brushes. It doesn't dry shiny unless you clear coat the piece.
I just purchased dye from Classic Dye Products. They had my color code and it was just over $50 for 32 oz. It is a water based product and can be used for leather and vinyl. Sounds very similar to Leatherique. I have to do a color change on some vinyl front seat pads and bring back the rear seats. I plan to use a cheap air brush to apply. I'll report back with results (might be a couple weeks).
BTW, those look good to me Bert.
Last edited by tlister67; 04-27-2010 at 07:53 AM.
You can specify to Leatherique the degree of gloss vs matte finish you want. I did my rears in matte and wanted a little more gloss for my fronts ( lurid and I are old buddies) so I had them mix me up a new batch with more gloss to it.
Wow Bert, those actually look great. Not nearly as shiny as I had seen in other photos. Thanks everyone for the tips.
Any tips on brushing it on... Sponge vs brush, what type of brush, etc...
Thanks again.
I used a staining pad and had good results with that. The dye went on evenly and left no brush marks. Using a brush did not work for me, and I'd bet that spraying is the best way to go. In the pictures my seats look more shinny than they do in real life, maybe it's from the reflection of the flash, but I would have ordered it with more of a matte finish if I had known that specifying the finish was an option.
http://sites.google.com/site/eurobmw...er-restoration
Euro '85 635csi E24, '03 E46 325xi wagon 5-speed, '05 325xi sedan 5-speed, '67 VW Bug, '14 F150, '17 Jetta
http://sites.google.com/site/eurobmw635csi/
I found this article which brings up the fact that stirring is critical to avoid the shiny result. This article is actually pretty helpful:
http://home.insightbb.com/~todd.kenyon/leather.htm
Think I'm going to buy an inexpensive airbrush and spray it. Anyone have any experience and advice doing it this way?
If you are planning any sanding on the leather, DO NOT sand the stitchings, sand around them, otherwise, they will fray. Also, when applying the dye, take it easy on the thread stitchings or they will glob up, making them very unsightly. Start on the surrounding leather, then move on to the thread stitchings, feathering the dye as you go along. Have to agree the spraying method is best, either with a touch up air sprayer or an air brush.
Bert
91 850i-A
1972 3.5 CSi (L-jet, Getrag 265 5 speed)
1988 ///M6
2021 X3 M40i
The back to back BIG COUPE” duo
I think the sheen also "wears in" a little. Nat has done some work where he thought it wasn't turning out right, but needed a little time...
In addition to the brush method, some have used a balled up wad of paper towel when applying the dye with great success. Actually tried this without much success. One advantage of brushing is no masking is necessary, making the dye application a breeze.
In the Leatherique instruction sheet, to get an added layer of protection and to impart extra sheen to the leather, an application of carnauba wax is recommended. Tried it on one of the re-dyed parts and really did not like the automotive wax odor.
Bert
91 850i-A
1972 3.5 CSi (L-jet, Getrag 265 5 speed)
1988 ///M6
2021 X3 M40i
The back to back BIG COUPE” duo
Dangit.
Another project on the list. My seats could use a re-dye.
That looks great. Where do you get your Leatherique stuff? I ordered the restorer and cleaner from Autogeek, and it helped but some spots are too far gone. I don't think Leatherique sells directly.
Last edited by Sprocket; 04-28-2010 at 11:53 AM.
You can order directly from them.
If you do a custom dye, you'll need to grab a swatch of the original leather and send it in to them. I grabbed mine from behind the front seat behind the backing. This way, it's very close to the original color.
http://www.leatherique.com/
Also, I ordered the kit that includes the custom dye, prestine clean, and rejuvination oil. Took about a week to get to me which is fine because the weather still needs to get warmer.
81 Euro undergoing total nut and bolt restoration
pictures at: flickr.com/photos/bertsphotos
Super! That's a huge help. Ignorant question, but what's a touch up gun? Is this a smaller version of a paint gun? I already have a compressor.
Thx.
High volume low pressure (hvlp) touch up gun
Traditional touch up gun
Go with the hvlp gun as there will be less overspray. Both units could be had for the ridiculous price of about $15 through http://search.harborfreight.com/cpis...guns&Submit=Go . For spraying leather dyes, these type of cheap spray guns are all you need. Professional grade guns which sell for over $100 are totally unecessary.
Bert
91 850i-A
1972 3.5 CSi (L-jet, Getrag 265 5 speed)
1988 ///M6
2021 X3 M40i
The back to back BIG COUPE” duo
Huge help. Thanks! $15... amazing.
Thanks, I had already snipped a piece from behind the front seat-back when fixing the headrest. I will send it to them although I would guess they should know the OEM color codes by now, eh?
Maybe. It depends on the volume of air the gun needs. Most guns should state pressure and volume requirements on the box or instructions
Last edited by Bert Poliakoff; 04-28-2010 at 08:36 PM.
81 Euro undergoing total nut and bolt restoration
pictures at: flickr.com/photos/bertsphotos
Have any of you guys counselling using a spray gun ever actually used one with the Leatherique dye ? I ask because I am familiar with the dye and it is full of a (fine) particulate sludge that settles very quickly in the liquid medium and requires constant stirring as you apply it. I'm wondering if the sludge wouldn't gum up a spray gun and render it useless quickly.
I'd use the cheap low tech solution of foam brushes for applying it.
Try to get SEM if they have the dye you want (color).
Their classic coat (only in spray cans) works great. I used one on a steering wheel and after a year and 6 months, it still looks great:
http://forums.bimmerforums.com/forum....php?t=1122226
SEM also makes sure-coat, which can be sprayed through a paint gun. It seems you can add cross linker, that's like modern urethane clearcoats vs. old lacquer paint. Big difference.
http://semproducts.com/Catalog.asp?cat=35
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