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Thread: switching to AMSOIL (again) and maybe filter too

  1. #1
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    Lightbulb switching to AMSOIL (again) and maybe filter too

    Yeah..... I think i'm converting to AMSOIL for the bimmer. I switched my bike to it last year, and it has been great, but I've been holding off on the car (using M1 in the meantime).

    It seems like they make a great product - to each his own - I know, but they (and others) have great technical and non-technical info on their website.

    I'm ordering this stuff from a local dealer. He will check to see if they have filters that will fit the car, but I told him I wasn't sure if I should switch the filter from OEM - he responded by saying that *most* cardtrige filters are 25um and that AMSOIL ones are 15, but he will check on it let me know.

    I know some people are pretty religious about the oil they use, but this stuff is worth at least a look. They market it as 25000 mile oil - not too bad, but i think i'll still change it every 10kmi or so.

    now..... AMSOIL is basically a bunch of independent dealers selling this stuff to friends/family. If I became a dealer - would anyone be interested in buying this magic potion? ...just curious before i go and pay the dues to become one.

    oh, and here's an interesting article i found while researching the topic. it talks about mobil and castrol's definitions of synthetic.... kind of interesting

    ~F Johnny.

  2. #2
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    All right F. Johnny, I'll bite....I've been using the BMW synthtic, and my local boys said it's just Castrol synthetic...which is the bad oil according to the articles at the link you posted.

    How much could you get oil for? And, I'm in Utah, so gotta figure shipping too I'd be willing to go a round with that stuff in my engine.

    Rhett
    '97 740il Arctic Silver
    -3.46 LSD (or 3.45, whatever it is) (VAC motorsports)
    -CAI (Revhigh)
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    -Underdrive PS and Water Pump pulleys (VAC Motorsports)
    -Clear fronts, sides and taillights
    -Rondell 58's and fresh paint -FINALLY HERE!

  3. #3
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    Originally posted by bigrhett
    All right F. Johnny, I'll bite....I've been using the BMW synthtic, and my local boys said it's just Castrol synthetic...which is the bad oil according to the articles at the link you posted.

    How much could you get oil for? And, I'm in Utah, so gotta figure shipping too I'd be willing to go a round with that stuff in my engine.

    Rhett

    Hey Rhett,

    it ratails for abot $5.70/quart - at least that's what I'm getting it for from my local dealer. i don't know for sure about the dealer cost - i just got this idea literally when i posted the message, so i'm looking into it. my guy is going to send me more info on it and such.....

    it's kind of pricey, but everyone i've met thus far swears by it since they only change it yearly. i took it (the bike equic) out of my motorcycle after 3kmi, and the stuff was like new, so i put it back in. i'm curious to see the results.

    look at this article too - it compares it to the M1, and pretty much beats it in every category....

    ok - i'll keep you posted on price
    ~F Johnny.

  4. #4
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    Originally posted by F Johnny Klyde
    it ratails for abot $5.70/quart - at least that's what I'm getting it for from my local dealer.
    Is that the 2000, the 7500 or the regular stufff? At the amsoil website, the 2000 series is like $8.35/quart (supposed to go for 25k miles or annually) and the 7500 is 5.20/quart and the regular is 5.85/quart.

    I don't drive 25k/year, so it wouldn't be worth it for me to buy that stuff. The 7500 was designed to go for 7500 between changes and the regular goes for up to 25k (like the premium stuff).

    So, I'd be looking at the regular stuff, since I drive about 12k miles a year. It's more slightly more expensive than the 7500 series, but probably worth it.

    It's time for a change right now, so I may just source some locally to give it a go.

    Rhett
    '97 740il Arctic Silver
    -3.46 LSD (or 3.45, whatever it is) (VAC motorsports)
    -CAI (Revhigh)
    -Engine software (Autothority)
    -Tranny Software (Dinan)
    -Higher Stall Torque Converter (local boys)
    -Underdrive PS and Water Pump pulleys (VAC Motorsports)
    -Clear fronts, sides and taillights
    -Rondell 58's and fresh paint -FINALLY HERE!

  5. #5
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    Originally posted by bigrhett
    Is that the 2000, the 7500 or the regular stufff? At the amsoil website, the 2000 series is like $8.35/quart (supposed to go for 25k miles or annually) and the 7500 is 5.20/quart and the regular is 5.85/quart.
    yeah that was the price for the regular - one that i posted the picture for above. yeah if you have to get it now, just find a local dealer and get it from them. it's too cold out for my to replace my own, so i'll just bring the oil and filter to the jiffyLube clowns and have them change it - or whoever.....

    i'll let you know if they make filters for our cars.

    ~F Johnny

  6. #6
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    I use Amsoil. The 1yr; 25,000mi on all my vehicles.

    There are others I think it is 15,000 mi [also 1 yr?] and the 7,500mi- 6 mo oil.

    The oil Service light count down has two yellow lights left and is at 17,000 mile [1 yr, 3 mo] old.

    I do not buy into thier oil filter propaganda. And their oil related failure guarentee is bogus, I mean how can [we] prove the engine failed due to an oil related problem. Have you ever heard of an engine failure due to 'using' any "brand" of oil?

    I just never used Moble1 and these two oils are really the only two ture synthetics that are readly available to me.

    I also purchase the gallon size since the Bimmer uses 8 qts.
    I purchase a case of 4-1 gallon containers at a time. [$72 last time]. They ship UPS to your house if you order from their website.

    I usually purchase from my local 'dealer' since the tax here is so low, it beats S&H buy a few dollars.

    It is good oil IMO, but I don't go overboard with it, meaning I am not a 'dealer' I do not sign up for their discounts and all that jazz.

    One more thing. Their 2 cycle oil is really great. Purchase the 50:1 or the 100:1 pillow packs for $1 and use them in your leaf blower, string trimmer or what ever. Definately good stuff there.

    I use the 100:1 mix on all my stuff no matter what the manufacturer says. Most recommend 40:1 but I have been using this for almost 8 years no with no adverse effect on my 2-cycle engines.

  7. #7
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    hey thanks for the info AutoPilot - not sure if i'll buy into their filter either, but i'll give 'em a chance to explain....

  8. #8
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    Cool Amsoil for cheap

    Hey, if you're not using their discount program, then you're paying too much.

    You can get the 5W30 and 10W30 for like $4.55/qt with the preferred customer program. I would think that would be cheaper than paying some local dealer the retail PLUS TAX because you're paying tax on a larger amount.

    The 0W30 oil is made to last up to 1 year or 35,000 miles. I don't drive that much per year. The 5W30 and the 10W30 are made to last up to 25,000 miles or 1 year.

    The SDF filters they have are to be changed every 6 months or 12,500 miles. I use two of these filters per year. They also have these filters for motorcycles as well as I saw them in the catalog I received somewhere.

    There's a link that I found on one of those sites you posted above comparing the M1 telling you how to get the oil cheaper than paying a local dealer.

    Go here:
    http://www.authorized-amsoil-dealer-...ount-cost.html

    :

    That same site also has a link on there to get a free catalog in the mail which shows a list of all of their products. I originally found a motorcycle dealer near here that sold Amsoil. They couldn't tell me anything about the products, nor did they carry any literature. It seemed like all they cared was about selling stuff and not into product knowledge... including the stuff they sold for motorcycles.

    I signed up in a program like that to save money. If I had any 2-cycle equipment, I'd use it like the other guy said and do the 100:1. I live in an apartment, so I don't have any lawn to maintain right now nor do I have a 2-cycle dirt bike or any other cool toys that rev high.

    Once my other family members found out about this oil, now they all come to me and use my discount to buy the oil. I'll order oil for like 4 or 5 cars at a time now so it comes out much cheaper. I've had this oil in my car for like a year now and I check it every now and then at the gas station. It's mind blowing how the oil does not get black like the old dino oil would. The texture still feels new. I only wish I found out about this oil company years ago. Back in the 1980's I only used Castrol. That's all I knew about. I was brainwashed from the commercials. Live and learn.

    That's my $.02 cents. Hope some of you guys save some money now.

    -Joe

  9. #9
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    hey thanks for the info Joe - i'll check it out

  10. #10
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    I used Amsoil in my YF250F dirt bike The 4 stroke version. It made 40hp on 1/4 of a liter out of the box. Amsoil was the only oil that worked well with my clutch, and had me doing a top end 1/2 as much as everyone else. These are very high power engines (1/18 of our displacement yet made 1/7th the power)and it worked very well. I have also been using it in all my other cars for years with no reason to change.

    Bruno
    I fly the FK100 -- It's the biggermotorFokker!!!!

  11. #11
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    jfeghali;

    $4.55 x 4 qts/gal x 4 gal [case] = $72.80.

    I am sure I paid $72 last year and looked it up.
    It was 72.11 which is $69 + 4.5 % VA sales tax.

    I have not gone back for this years supply but it looks like my local dealer is not ripping me off.

  12. #12
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    The dealer also has to pay shipping to get that oil to his shop. The only way he can get free shipping is if he makes a whopping $6,000 dollar order with Amsoil. That's why I just buy direct from the catalog and get all of the proper oil filters I need and everything else. Once I got my ID # from Amsoil in the mail, I get a special password to log on their site and order on-line and the stuff gets to my house usually within 1 day.

    Every so often my family will call me and give me their credit card and I'll order it for them and ship it to their house.

    I don't see the benefit of using any other oil. It's mind blowing that not everybody uses this stuff. I see no reason to use Royal Purple, Redline, Mobil 1 or Castrol. None of them have had any proof that they are better, so why do people still use them? Yet you see hundreds of web sites showing multiple tests proving that Amsoil is beating all of them. Why is everyone so brainwashed with 3,000 mile oil changes? I can't believe that so many people don't believe that you can't go 20,000+ miles on Amsoil. When is the last time you heard read about someone using Royal Purple and have the engine go over 500,000 miles without a rebuild? I don't ever remember finding any web site or anything on that. Have you?

    That's just as ignorant as me saying, "It's impossible for any animal to fly." (Let's just pretend that I never saw a bird or anything else fly.) I could sit there all day long and argue that it's impossible for anything to fly. But me believing that, does that make it true? Of course not... that's about as true as someone not believing Amsoil can't work. I argue with so many people about this stuff it's not even funny. It's simply amazing how many people are ignorant out there and most everyone thinks the glass is half-empty instead of half-full... and of course, these people are not smart enough to drive BMW's.

    Have a good day all... Hope some of you save a few bucks on that discount thing anyway. Not everyone has an Amsoil dealer up the street to buy stuff in person from.

  13. #13
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    Quote Originally Posted by jfeghali
    ...I don't see the benefit of using any other oil. It's mind blowing that not everybody uses this stuff.
    simple...some ppl just haven't heard of it. well, in my case anyway. i'm starting to check into getting some of this stuff myself

  14. #14
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    Amsoil has been around for years

    Quote Originally Posted by Md750
    simple...some ppl just haven't heard of it. well, in my case anyway. i'm starting to check into getting some of this stuff myself
    I have been using Syntec since it came out - 85K on a Jeep 5.0L, 95K on an 86 L7, 130K on a Dodge Intrepid, 60K on Dodge caravan, 76K on a Volvo R turbo wagon, 18K on an '01 e38. I change every 5k miles and have never had a minutes trouble on any of these cars. I have also used RedLine in my '83 320 with a Korman Stage II six for about 15K (about 2K in autocrosses) - I have changed it three times in 15 years- no problems.

    I agree with all the articles that say oil does not wear out it just gets contaminated with acids and ash, etc. The benefit to synthetic is what they leave behind. They spread and coat bettter than dino base. If you do more start and stop driving the more you need synthetic or so I've been told.

    Fuel injector cleaners add a great deal of contaminates as well - if you use them, try to use in the last tank before you change the oil to be safe. IMHO.
    http://i293.photobucket.com/albums/mm71/krallopian/darthSigTest2_zpsn6zkw5id.jpg[/URL][URL="http://www.facebook.com/pages/DFW7-Dallas-Fort-Worth-BMW-7-Series-Club/300942239566"]DFW7 on Facebook/URL]
    "The Last Great e38" 2001 i Sport - Born'd on date 1/01 Cosmos/Grey - 32.8K miles - 2 1/2 " Custom Exhaust, Center “X”over , Modified OEM rear bumper, M5 style trunk spoiler, M6 OEM wheels, M3 Steering wheel with working paddle shift & CF trim, Bi-Xenon upgrade, 13mm Rear sway bar added, SS brake lines and bronze bushings, Cross drilled rotors and painted calipers, Akebono pads, Zionsville aluminum radiator & exp. tank with electric fan, Sprint Booster, BluTooth conversion, MKIV Nav., Custom wood cupholder, DUDMD Tune, Orien V2.5 LED Angel Eyes, Evans waterless. Recently added grey faced //M5 Cluster - all gauges functioning. Changed the grey carpet to black and topped off with GG Bailey front/rear mats[/SIZE]

  15. #15
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    I use the Amsoil 25,000 mile 1 year oil [vs the 7500 - 1 yr] and change it once a year [I don't drive 25,000 miles a year any more].

    I use Mann filters and do not care about their guarentee. I mean really how can anyone prove an oil related failure. A no oil in the engine related failure but not a failure because of 'their' oil.

    Last year I used 5W-30 and this year I used 10W-30.
    The lights clicked down and the last yellow light went out at 1 year, 15,000. [exactly 15,000].

    I did not go down to the red lights- change oil.

    My 2 cents.
    Last edited by AutoPilot; 06-02-2004 at 06:26 AM. Reason: spelling

  16. #16
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    Quote Originally Posted by AutoPilot
    I use Mann filters and do not care about their guarentee.
    you have a part number for the oil filter you use or would i be safe with the stock filter?

  17. #17
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    Question Amsoil people.
    What about us 95 oil people? Is it safe to change our oil to this synthetic from the old mother earth stuff? Is there any cross contamination from the residual oil left after draining? BMW wasn’t using synthetic in 95 yet. I am sure this has come up before, but what is your opinion? Thanks,
    Randy

  18. #18
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    I purchased mine from Jagworks.com
    Their SKU A6002-90074 comes with O-ring. $8.30.
    BMW Part Number 11 42 7 510 717

  19. #19
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    AutoPilot,

    Who is the dealer in central VA? I'm in Henrico.

    Thanks,

    TB

  20. #20
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    Cool

    Quote Originally Posted by rango44
    Question Amsoil people.
    What about us 95 oil people? Is it safe to change our oil to this synthetic from the old mother earth stuff? Is there any cross contamination from the residual oil left after draining? BMW wasn’t using synthetic in 95 yet. I am sure this has come up before, but what is your opinion? Thanks,
    Randy
    The ONLY issue I have heard of, when it comes to using synthetic oil in older cars, is the possibility that the new oil may leak past your older seals, etc.

    The thought is that due to its superior "slipperyness" (technical term), and the age of your engine oil seals, that while your dino-oil was "blocked" (another technical term), the synthetic oil may not be.

    Personally, I would make the switch, perhaps unless I had 150K+ miles...

  21. #21
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    Central Virginia Dealer

    My closest Dealer is in Lynchburg,
    Hammersley Motors on Hwy 221 near the Frito Lay Plant.
    They are friendly and treat everyone well.
    They charge full retail on parts and they will charge about $85/ hour labor for service.

    They charge for diagnosis time also.

    I feel very poor when I go there.
    'They' act like spending thousands in service is no big deal.
    Basically they are in business, charge full price, and have to deal with the unrich, like me.

  22. #22
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    AutoPilot, I meant your AMSoil dealer. But it sounds like you are pretty far west of me anyway. When I read Central VA I was thinking Central Richmond. It just sounded like the prices you were paying for AMSoil were good and I wondered if the person you bought from was here in Richmond. Sounds like it's not but thanks anyway. I'll check around here locally.

  23. #23
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    The best way to buy Amsoil is to order it from your house as a preferred customer. Being a dealer requires a good deal of networking to be successful. I use oem filter with Amsoil 10w40 XL (7500 mile). In my beater I use the 25,000 mile with Amsoil filter. I'm a dealer in Morgantown, WV but I'm in Blacksburg VA about every other weekend.

  24. #24
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    Quote Originally Posted by wvugent View Post
    The best way to buy Amsoil is to order it from your house as a preferred customer. Being a dealer requires a good deal of networking to be successful. I use oem filter with Amsoil 10w40 XL (7500 mile). In my beater I use the 25,000 mile with Amsoil filter. I'm a dealer in Morgantown, WV but I'm in Blacksburg VA about every other weekend.
    holy thread resurrection, Batman!! did you notice that the last post was 3 years ago?
    '01 740iL with Sport Package born on SEP 27, 2000
    EXTERIOR: SCHWARZ 2 (668)
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    100% OPTIONS (0660)

  25. #25
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    I think Amsoil is a great oil no doubt, but I've been an avid M1 user for the last 10 years. I run it in everything, including lawnmowers. I change my oil no later than 5k miles no matter what. I don't think any oil is "magic" and no matter what the oil, the contaminants from blow-by, moisture, dirt etc-are still there. It makes no sense to go 15-20k miles on any oil where the contaminants are still floating around inside your engine. Look at your oil coloer when new, basically yellowish/ clear. Look at the oil after 10-15k miles, it will be totally black. I think others synthetics are just as good and cheaper. Quality synthetics take much much longer to break down, which gives them the long intervals for changing, but, unless your changing your filter every few thousand, I think it's a bad idea. Just my opinion.

    -Ben

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