What hardware needs to be replaced for a driveshaft job?

[Nighthawk399]

Im replacing the entire driveshaft, I was going to just replace the CSB and Giubo a few weeks ago but now things have changed; my car started giving me a knock from under the seats(throttle position dependant) along with a quick on off acceleration (been there for a few months gradually getting worse) kick in the pants and finally the clunks and general low tolerance feeling nature of the driveline. After the knocking happened, I ordered a new Drive shaft. What other hardware should I replace? Ive got my transmission mounts and hardware, engine mounts and hardware but then I have this new driveshaft coming in, Guibo and CSB. Should I replace all the bolts? All the nuts? Do I have to buy BMW nuts or can I just buy some Mxx sized bolts and reuse the bolts? My car was purchased 5.5 years ago, with 60,000 miles and while it was serviced under BMW Dealership, I didnt see much that was done when I got it. (Old Water Pump was still in there along with the other coolant hassles.)

[Vinci]

If you're putting an order in to the dealer, I always prefer to get all the bolts/nuts new. That way, if/when you come across a damaged or rusted bolt, you're not stuck.

That said, the nuts on the guibo are NOT supposed to be reused. They are "locking" nuts and deform once, kind of like Nylocks, but all-metal. I don't know about other nuts, but I always replace the hardware anyway.

EDIT: FWIW, trouble with your driveshaft will be wheel speed dependent, not engine speed. If there is a problem with the driveshaft, any noises should exist only when moving, and (for the most part) regardless of throttle position.

[Nighthawk399]

The torque translated to the drive shaft would cause the center to rotate if the csb is bad right?

[Vinci]

That's going to rotate any time the rear wheels are moving.

I could see noises being louder or different when under an engine load versus coasting, but if a CSB were bad, I'd expect to have a noise any time the driveshaft is spinning.

What makes you think the driveshaft itself is bad? That's really not a wear part.

[danomite]

Im replacing the entire driveshaft, I was going to just replace the CSB and Giubo a few weeks ago but now things have changed; my car started giving me a knock from under the seats(throttle position dependant) along with a quick on off acceleration (been there for a few months gradually getting worse) kick in the pants and finally the clunks and general low tolerance feeling nature of the driveline. After the knocking happened, I ordered a new Drive shaft. What other hardware should I replace? Ive got my transmission mounts and hardware, engine mounts and hardware but then I have this new driveshaft coming in, Guibo and CSB. Should I replace all the bolts? All the nuts? Do I have to buy BMW nuts or can I just buy some Mxx sized bolts and reuse the bolts? My car was purchased 5.5 years ago, with 60,000 miles and while it was serviced under BMW Dealership, I didnt see much that was done when I got it. (Old Water Pump was still in there along with the other coolant hassles.)

If you're putting an order in to the dealer, I always prefer to get all the bolts/nuts new. That way, if/when you come across a damaged or rusted bolt, you're not stuck.

That said, the nuts on the guibo are NOT supposed to be reused. They are "locking" nuts and deform once, kind of like Nylocks, but all-metal. I don't know about other nuts, but I always replace the hardware anyway.

EDIT: FWIW, trouble with your driveshaft will be wheel speed dependent, not engine speed. If there is a problem with the driveshaft, any noises should exist only when moving, and (for the most part) regardless of throttle position.

...I can't help it, I'm a stickler for integrity and correctness. The correct word you're going for is GIUBO...not GUIBO. It's short for 'giunto Boschi', or Boschi joint...named after the Italian Alfa Romeo technician that invented it.

To the topic at hand, I can submit this: Get all new hardware for this job. The nuts that connect the driveshaft to the transmission (and I think the rear diff also) are considered OTU (One Time Use). They could probably be reused without any ill effects, but why take the chance...especially since new hardware isn't expensive.

I'm not sure where you ordered your driveshaft from, but hopefully it was DriveShaft Specialist (http://www.driveshaftspecialist.com). Super simple transaction, prepaid return and box for your old driveshaft, and the best price period!

This job should is very straightforward, and relatively easy to complete. The biggest obstacle you may have will be your exhaust system, but as long as that's not rusted together, you'll be back on the road in less than 2 hours.

[Nighthawk399]

Notice the first giubo in my firs post that was because I read a post of yours where you told someone else.....lol I let the others lip by out of bad habit I guess.

My issue is do I need to buy BMW Bolts and Nuts. It seems foolish to pay almost 40$ for bolts and nuts. Do you know the size of hardware I can source from my local hardware store?

[wrench13]

After 35 years in the fastener business, I;ve seen some catastrophic failures when folks substitute the wrong fastener in a given application. Unless your sure its the same material, grade, finish, head style and thread length as the original BMW fastener, I would not do it.

[Eurospec]

Unless your sure its the same material, grade, finish, head style and thread length as the original BMW fastener, I would not do it.

Take this mans advise. Why risk it and have something potentially fail prematurely.

Shop around the various e-retailers or a local parts supplier-- Autohaus AZ, BimmerBum, BMAparts, FCP Euro just to name a few.

[Cremaster]

Boschi joint...named after the Italian Alfa Romeo technician that invented it.

Was this technician properly punished?

[danomite]

Notice the first giubo in my firs post that was because I read a post of yours where you told someone else.....lol I let the others lip by out of bad habit I guess.

My issue is do I need to buy BMW Bolts and Nuts. It seems foolish to pay almost 40$ for bolts and nuts. Do you know the size of hardware I can source from my local hardware store?

You can get the required hardware from most of the reputable BMW parts places. I think I got my last set from ECS Tuning. They're reasonably priced, quick, and easy to deal with. Bimmerworld, Turner Motorsports, Bavauto, Pelican Parts, etc. should also carry what you need.

Was this technician properly punished?

...negative, he moved to Holland and developed his wizardry in hydroponics. He lived out his days under the alias 'Dr Van Stickee-Ickee'.

[Randy Forbes]

Notice the first giubo in my firs post that was because I read a post of yours where you told someone else.....lol I let the others lip by out of bad habit I guess.

My issue is do I need to buy BMW Bolts and Nuts. It seems foolish to pay almost 40$ for bolts and nuts. Do you know the size of hardware I can source from my local hardware store?

Though I'm cringing, like when you scrape your fingernails down a chalkboard, I'll refrain from commenting...

[danomite]

...RANDY! Nooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooo oooooooooooo!!!!!!!!!!!

[Nighthawk399]

I hate how im always buying 70$ worth of hardware. I find this fastener BMW scam to be bloody stupid, BMW cant make their own hardware so why 9$ per nut (diff to shaft nut)....I know im just going to break down and buy this crap to keep my conscience right with bimmerforums....

[Eurospec]

Must you be reminded... you do own a BMW (breaks my wallet) after all.

[Nighthawk399]

No, I dont have to be reminded. I spent 60$ on hardware 2 days ago to make sure I ordered the BMW Stuff...Because BMW über alles

[kornfeld]

This thread is a good read...I was looking into replacing my rear subrame bushings, which led me to look into replacing the RTABs while I'm in there...which led me to look into replacing the giubo and CSB while I'm in there, which led me to look into replacing the whole driveshaft so I'd have fresh remanufactured U-joints as well.

The main drivetrain related symptom I've had for the last year has been a pretty light thump when letting off the gas after slowly backing out of a parking spot, or when letting off the gas for any reason while at low car and engine speed. It doesn't sound like a sharp metal on metal clunk or bang, more like a somewhat muted thump. Any guesses on what it might be? I'm also reading that the diff itself could be the culprit.

The car has fresh engine and transmission mounts, and there was no change in the sound after installing those.

[ZoO]

for the past 2 weeks I have under gone... toe/camber weld on, subframe bushings, rtab, diff bushing, brake upgrade, brake lines, headers, engine mounts, oil pan gasket..


that all stemmed from wanted to replace subframe, diff, and rta bushings.