Engine won't start- SULEV engine

[GaryKoos]

I have a 2003 325 i, with the M56 engine (SULEV) in it. The car has 175,000 miles on it. Last month, due to overheating, I had an engine swap-done by a mechanic at the place I bought the engine from. The swapped engine has 88,000 miles on it. When I picked the car up, car was running fine- mechanic told me I needed to replace the DISA valve, but that it would run fine in the meantime. I have not replaced the DISA yet.

The car ran fine for a couple weeks (about 1,000 miles) , then after sitting in the garage for a week, I went to start the car. The engine cranks over fine, just won't start. Strange thing- the engine heat needle goes into the red zone when I turn the key to on, and also, when I try to start car. It is not hot since it is not even running. The needle worked fine in the last couple weeks.

The mechanic said to replace the battery- did that, and engine still won't start. Needle still goes to red also!
I tried to get a spark from the plug- removed the plug, hooked up to sleeve, and grounded the threaded part of plug- but got no spark- not sure if this is an electrical issue in another part of engine.

I also wanted to check the fuel supply and fuel pressure. I've read all the posts on filters, pumps, etc. I can't simply replace the filter or pump-since this car has the DME MS 45.1 fuel system- basically, the fuel tank, pump, filter and regulator are all in one sealed and integrated unit; if it is faulty, I have to replace the whole unit, tank and all. The Bentley manual does not give that much information on testing the fuel system in these cars- so I am hoping a forum member may give me some ideas here.
I tried looking for a valve on the fuel injector rack to see if I could read pressure there- but it is all one sealed system and no valve.

It is either electrical (no spark) or fuel system. Any ideas and suggestions on either would be appreciated. Or, maybe the DISA valve is causing this (I don't think so because it ran fine for a 1,000 miles).
I want to get the car back on the road, especially after the expense of the engine swap !

[Cunsuelo]

Is the temp sensor plugged in? Line/plug connections OK?

[TerraPhantm]

Does your SES light come on? If not, then I think your DME somehow got messed up. My M3 had the exact same symptoms (engine turns over, doesn't start, and temperature in the red zone) when I messed up on a DME flash (had a config file set wrong). A simple reflash fixed it in my case, but it might not be so simple for you.

[GaryKoos]

The lights showing on panel, when key is in on position, are the DSC and transmission lights (normal), oil also. Temp light goes to red zone too (I did not change this sensor after the overheat problem- so that may be the cause for this). The SES only came on when the car was running for last couple weeks, but now, it does not come on when in on position, or when cranking.

Gas tank is 1/2 full, and I can hear the fuel pump operating- keeps going while key is on position. I am not sure if the fuel pump is a normal sound or not.

I'll check the DME- not sure how this would have got messed up though.

[TerraPhantm]

The lights showing on panel, when key is in on position, are the DSC and transmission lights (normal), oil also. Temp light goes to red zone too (I did not change this sensor after the overheat problem- so that may be the cause for this). The SES only came on when the car was running for last couple weeks, but now, it does not come on when in on position, or when cranking.

Gas tank is 1/2 full, and I can hear the fuel pump operating- keeps going while key is on position. I am not sure if the fuel pump is a normal sound or not.

I'll check the DME- not sure how this would have got messed up though.

I'm positive it's a DME issue. What the issue is precisely, I don't know, but those symptoms are that of a DME that is not working.

Now when mine had a bad flash, I was still able to poll the DME, but all the data was corrupted (it shows me the VIN, software number, etc... As "YYYYYYY" or something to that effect). But since the unit still responded I knew I could reflash it and bring the car back to life (which I did). You may not be so lucky because it doesn't seem to be a bad flash that's causing your problem (since it did work before). If you're lucky, you might just have a blown fuse somewhere.

[GaryKoos]

TerrraPhantm- thanks for the advice. I am going to do a check on all electrical connections, grounds, fuses, etc. (the engine was swapped, and maybe something wasn't tightened all the way on the install). Will post results later today.
Thanks again-

All of the fuses, electrical connections, etc. were checked. Nothing out of ordinary.
The needle on the engine temperature still goes to redline when key is in the on position (engine has not started, so it is not hot) , and car won't start. I am pretty sure it is a malfunction in the DME.
My mechanic suggested to change the Engine Coolant Sensor since the needle goes to redline>
Before I take out the intake manifold to get to the sensor, any ideas on what would cause the DME to fail, and show the needle at redline?
Thanks for any input and ideas.

[TerraPhantm]

The needle going to redline is simply a behavior that's exhibited when there's no DME communication. Like I said, my car did the exact same thing when my flash failed. There was nothing wrong with the actual coolant temp sender and the temperature went back to normal as soon as I got a working flash on there.

Honestly, you're going to need to take it to a dealer, or at least an Indy who is experienced with BMW electrical systems, to fix the car. At best, all it'll take is a reflash of the DME. At worst, you'll need an entirely new DME (which would then need to be programmed to your car). In either case, you need access to BMW computers and their software.

[NDubSki]

Stupid, stupid question, really stupid, and I am indeed wearing my flame suit right now but....
Did your mechanic swap in an M56 engine? I know it's one of those questions that shouldn't be asked, but I've had some bad experiences with mechanics and leaving towels in my belts and such.

The answer is probably "yes they did ya dumbass" but I figured I'd ask

[Cunsuelo]

TerrraPhantm- thanks for the advice. I am going to do a check on all electrical connections, grounds, fuses, etc. (the engine was swapped, and maybe something wasn't tightened all the way on the install). Will post results later today.
Thanks again-

All of the fuses, electrical connections, etc. were checked. Nothing out of ordinary.
The needle on the engine temperature still goes to redline when key is in the on position (engine has not started, so it is not hot) , and car won't start. I am pretty sure it is a malfunction in the DME.
My mechanic suggested to change the Engine Coolant Sensor since the needle goes to redline>
Before I take out the intake manifold to get to the sensor, any ideas on what would cause the DME to fail, and show the needle at redline?
Thanks for any input and ideas.

Usually those DMEs are pretty good about holding out. However, I have seen several go bad due to oil contamination when the camshaft sensor cracks.

[GaryKoos]

Well, I finally found the cause of the problems (sort of).
I removed all of the fuses in the fuse box, checked them over, and they were all okay. But one of the fuses sparked a little when I put it back in- this would indicate a short in the circuit somewhere (I wish I could remember which fuse it was!). Anyway, this reset the EWS (that is what my mechanic thinks) and allowed the car to start up. When I turned the ignition to ON, the temperature gauge stayed normal in the blue zone.

Now I just have to find out which fuse had the spark, and then I can trace the circuit for the real fix.

Thanks for all the posts and ideas. Looks like I got lucky this time- DME was fine and fuel pump is fine.

[TerraPhantm]

Well, I finally found the cause of the problems (sort of).
I removed all of the fuses in the fuse box, checked them over, and they were all okay. But one of the fuses sparked a little when I put it back in- this would indicate a short in the circuit somewhere (I wish I could remember which fuse it was!). Anyway, this reset the EWS (that is what my mechanic thinks) and allowed the car to start up. When I turned the ignition to ON, the temperature gauge stayed normal in the blue zone.

Now I just have to find out which fuse had the spark, and then I can trace the circuit for the real fix.

Thanks for all the posts and ideas. Looks like I got lucky this time- DME was fine and fuel pump is fine.

Seems more like it reset the *DME* (if the EWS was reset, I don't think your car would even crank since it needs to be synced with the DME). I'm not really quite sure how replacing a fuse would reset something when removing/changing the battery didn't... is it possible that one of the fuses was simply loose/misplaced? I don't think a spark necessarily indicates a short - it just indicates that there was current flowing right that second, which should be the case for a module like the DME

[GaryKoos]

I have the final fix for this problem- it turned out that the grounding wire for the DME was not secured- the nut was missing and the wire made intermittent connect with the terminal.

I drove about 25 miles yesterday and the engine suddenly quit- same symptoms as before- needle in the red, car dies, and won't start- engine cranks over fine. This time I towed it to and indy- it took him awhile, but he finally found the wire sitting on the terminal with no nut.

I am back on the road-

[bmwbob89]

I always tell people even myself and don't mean to dis anybody with this statement but.
Always always when you have a new problem after any repair. Look where the last idiot was. You almost always find a mistake or something that was overlooked. Seldom do new issues happen instantly after a repair. It does happen but not very often. I have been the victim of my own idiocy. Especially after a huge repair like this was. It's very easy to overlook something. We can all be idiots at times. Life is much easier when we can admit we make mistakes and move on.

Oh and by the way. I am very glad you solved the issue and you are back on the road.