anyone know how many bearings are on each rear? is it just 1 bearing per side? so a pair of bearings would be able to do the 2 rears? correct?
Is this the tool everyone is talking about?
bmwpower / bmwcca 147895 / 05 X5 / 99 M3 / 90 535i / 89 325is track project
djbit, can you please host the pics on photobucket in the meantime? Thanks!
| CDV delete | ASC delete | Fan delete | debaffled airbox
| H&R sports | Koni SA | 3.23 LSD | M3 CABs | M3 RTABs + shims | UUC Red TME
| Understeer SSK | Rear subframe re-inforcement | Powerflex subframe bushings (update: went back to stock) | Porterfield R4 pads
Ok, so following the advice of this thread I changed my rw bearings and I have to say, anyone who can do this job in one hour is either a professional BMW mechanic or a professional bullshitter.
Notes from my experience:
1. If you have a car with high mileage don't expect to get the hub off easily... It took me about 45 minutes a hub with an oversized slide hammer. (note that my car has ~150k miles and it was obviously the first time these had been removed)
2. If you think a dremel will cut a bearing race effortlessly you are mistaken. I ended up using a bearing puller and a press to get the inner race off of the hub, which is a better way to do it anyway.
3. Hammering or tapping your hub back in is risky and potentially fatal for your new bearing, easier method: Purchase threaded rod, 4 nuts, and several washers (one washer with the same OD as the inner race of the bearing, and one with an OD larger than the ID of the hub. Make tool to press hub into bearing using bearing inner race. Return rod, washers, and nuts to store.
Good luck guys!
i just bought a used low milaege trailing arm with the bearing already in it for 100 dollars, wham,bam thankyou mam!
I just did all 4 wheel bearings myself and I have something to add:
I did NOT use a puller. I removed the entire trailing arm and popped the bearings out on my HF 20 ton hydraulic press. They took an UNBELIEVABLE amount of force to come out. The 1" thick steel bars I was using as press plates bent a LOT, and the left rear bearing race shattered when it popped out. It's not easy to shatter a bearing race. Anyways, the point is that I can not even imagine doing this job without hydraulic tools. I would have been hammering and pulling all week. Maybe my bearing was seized worse than most, but nevertheless, if you DIY you should be prepared to put your car back together and take it to a mechanic. BTW... removing the trailing arm was not very difficult.
To remove the inner bearing race from the hub, I cut it with a dremel about 80%, then pounded it a few times with a cold chisel. It cracked easily where it was scored. This way i avoided damaging the hub with the dremel.
This has been said before, but should be emphasized:
- When pushing the bearing into the trailing arm, push on the outer race only.
- When pushing the hub into the bearing, the bearing should be supported from behind by the inner race. Don't just hammer on the hub or you will screw up your bearing.
The front bearings are easy, and can be removed easily with a puller.
Posting with some pictures would be very nice....
Lack of pics = DIY failure.
E36 NON Vanos and Misc Parts for Sale
http://s1126.photobucket.com/user/To...25i%2092/story
http://s1126.photobucket.com/user/Tomfordny/library/
NICE write up...even without pics.
Can't wait to view the write-up site with pics once it is back up.
I can't beleive no one saved a copy of these pics and put them up on a real pic site. Come on folks, someone must have them? I need to do this job this coming weekend....
John
'95 Hellrot M3 w/Dove
AA Euro HFM Stage II (w/21# Injectors & Software) W/Gen III Exhaust - URI Crank Pully - FDM w/3 Row M Coupe Rad - 3.23 LSD - Vogtland Club Spec/Koni SA - UUC Red w/Enforcers - TMS Shims/Rear Camber Bars w/QA1 inners/Sways - VMC F/TMS R End Links - X-Brace - Perf Ultimate/SS Brake Lines - GC Tower Mounts/RTAB Shims - ZKW's w/5000K Hid - Fog Delete - Alpine 9847/Pioneer TS-C130R Kevlar Components/Pioneer PRS-X340/Stealth Box's/Wired Zune 120GB - OE LTW CF Sills/Glove Box Plate - Staggered Black M-Spoke II's w/235/40 (front), 255/40 (Rear) Nitto NT05's - Rolled Fenders!
***Got a '95 M3? (actually pretty common on all years! Even happened to Racer Seth Thomas! ) Check Your LSD! http://forums.bimmerforums.com/forum...d.php?t=390209
1999 ///M3 TiAg | Heated Power Vaders | DDM Projector36 5000K 55W HIDs | DDM 3000K 35W HID Fogs
DDM Smoked Corners | DDM Weighted Shift Knob | K&N CAI | Mishimoto AL Rad w/Zionsville AL Shroud
Stewart HiPo Water Pump | Samco Hose Kit | 16" SPAL Puller Fan | Viper 5701LE Security
E36 OBC is now open! Join the effort: BF.C Thread | openOBC Wiki
Sorry, but the link doesn't work.
Does anyone have pics that they can e-mail me?
Most importantly I need to see the bearing tool because I don't want to spend $250 for the BMW tool if I can get it from harbor frieght/ebay/sears or use something else cheaper.
Thanks again!!!
PS: This seems like the perfect job to do while replacing the rear struts, since I need to buy a spring compressor as well.
You don't really need a spring compressor for the rear struts. And you wouldn't really save that much work by doing them together.
Sears just has pullers. HF has some wheel bearing tools but they're a little junky. IMO you should either get a hydraulic press or the BMW tool.
1999 ///M3 TiAg | Heated Power Vaders | DDM Projector36 5000K 55W HIDs | DDM 3000K 35W HID Fogs
DDM Smoked Corners | DDM Weighted Shift Knob | K&N CAI | Mishimoto AL Rad w/Zionsville AL Shroud
Stewart HiPo Water Pump | Samco Hose Kit | 16" SPAL Puller Fan | Viper 5701LE Security
E36 OBC is now open! Join the effort: BF.C Thread | openOBC Wiki
1999 ///M3 TiAg | Heated Power Vaders | DDM Projector36 5000K 55W HIDs | DDM 3000K 35W HID Fogs
DDM Smoked Corners | DDM Weighted Shift Knob | K&N CAI | Mishimoto AL Rad w/Zionsville AL Shroud
Stewart HiPo Water Pump | Samco Hose Kit | 16" SPAL Puller Fan | Viper 5701LE Security
E36 OBC is now open! Join the effort: BF.C Thread | openOBC Wiki
1999 ///M3 TiAg | Heated Power Vaders | DDM Projector36 5000K 55W HIDs | DDM 3000K 35W HID Fogs
DDM Smoked Corners | DDM Weighted Shift Knob | K&N CAI | Mishimoto AL Rad w/Zionsville AL Shroud
Stewart HiPo Water Pump | Samco Hose Kit | 16" SPAL Puller Fan | Viper 5701LE Security
E36 OBC is now open! Join the effort: BF.C Thread | openOBC Wiki
Hi there,
I am in the middle of changing my rear bearings now as all i needed to do was change the protective shield what the brake shoes attach to but have had to undo the rear hub and remove it.
I can maybe take some pictures tomorro and post them for all to see??? If any1 wants me to
1999 ///M3 TiAg | Heated Power Vaders | DDM Projector36 5000K 55W HIDs | DDM 3000K 35W HID Fogs
DDM Smoked Corners | DDM Weighted Shift Knob | K&N CAI | Mishimoto AL Rad w/Zionsville AL Shroud
Stewart HiPo Water Pump | Samco Hose Kit | 16" SPAL Puller Fan | Viper 5701LE Security
E36 OBC is now open! Join the effort: BF.C Thread | openOBC Wiki
Just a note to anyone looking to do this to an M3. Most of the DIY's and guides in here are from regular E36 Folks (thanks guys!) but there are some differences.
The E36 M3 has:
Larger Axle Nut - 36mm 12pt.
Larger Diameter Bearing & Carrier. (so all those DIY made out of pipe tools wont work until you get even bigger diameter pipe pieces! I'm in the middle of it right now, so I don't have the measurements yet)
Larger and stiffer C-Ring (to hold bearing in)
I also had no problem dremaling the outter races off the Hubs...easy stuff! (have a B&D Dremal, put her on "6" and cut away!!!) Even cut that blasted C-Ring, none of my C-Rings tools (even bought new HD one) could handle that puppy until I mad that relief cut..)
I'm also curious about the Dust Shield and any ramifications from removing or cutting it way down. I plan of doing those two Balljoints at the same time and the dust shield might have to go.....
John
'95 Hellrot M3 w/Dove
AA Euro HFM Stage II (w/21# Injectors & Software) W/Gen III Exhaust - URI Crank Pully - FDM w/3 Row M Coupe Rad - 3.23 LSD - Vogtland Club Spec/Koni SA - UUC Red w/Enforcers - TMS Shims/Rear Camber Bars w/QA1 inners/Sways - VMC F/TMS R End Links - X-Brace - Perf Ultimate/SS Brake Lines - GC Tower Mounts/RTAB Shims - ZKW's w/5000K Hid - Fog Delete - Alpine 9847/Pioneer TS-C130R Kevlar Components/Pioneer PRS-X340/Stealth Box's/Wired Zune 120GB - OE LTW CF Sills/Glove Box Plate - Staggered Black M-Spoke II's w/235/40 (front), 255/40 (Rear) Nitto NT05's - Rolled Fenders!
***Got a '95 M3? (actually pretty common on all years! Even happened to Racer Seth Thomas! ) Check Your LSD! http://forums.bimmerforums.com/forum...d.php?t=390209
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