I just finished rebuilding my Dinan Powerdyne BD-11 last week and reinstalled it this weekend. I looked around for a long time for information on how to rebuild it and found one writeup that addressed the outer bearings, but it didn't contain much information and it stated the inner bearings needed to be replaced by a machine shop. I finally gave up looking and just tore into it. It was far simpler than was alluded to, so I wanted to post up the information for anyone else who might be considering it. My wife had temporarily lost our camera at the time of disassembly, so I don't have any pics of that but reinacted part of the process for demonstration purposes.
First off the tools. If you have all of these handy, you should be able to rebuild the supercharger in less than 2 hours. This assumes that you already have removed the supercharger from the car.
Impact wrench - to remove pulley bolt and impellar bolt
Hex wrench - don't recall the size, but its to remove the 14 casing bolts
Screwdriver or other prying device - to pry the top casing off, something made of hard plastic would lessen the chance of scuffing up the mating surfaces
3 jaw puller - I got my 3 jaw puller at the parts store for $10
bearing separator - I didn't need one but it would be much easier with it, my local Harbor Freight had a full set for $50 had I been stuck
slide hammer or pilot bearing puller - these will be needed if the bearings get stuck in the casing, I had one stuck in each half.
hammer or mallet
Press, large c-clamp, bench vice, etc. - this will be for reassembling the bearings and casing
various sized sockets or pieces of pipe - for pressing bearings back on the shaft
First remove the pulley bolt using an impact wrench. This may be easier to do with the s/c still on the car and the belt in place so you can use a regular wrench without the s/c spinning. After the bolt is out, use your 3 jaw puller to remove the pulley. There will be a metal key that keeps the pulley from spinning, remove this as well. You should end up with this.
DSCF0617.jpg
Remove all 14 hex casing bolts. Tap the top casing with a mallet. If using a regular hammer or metal mallet, use a block of wood to prevent dinging up the casing. The top casing should be free from the bottom casing, but the outer bearings will still be holding the top casing in place.
Using a screw driver or plastic pry, carefully pry the top casing from the bearings. In my case, one of the small impellar bearings had seized to the casing and came off the impellar shaft and stayed with the casing.
DSCF0527.jpg
If your bearings stay on the shafts like they hopefully will, you should see something like this.
DSCF0611.jpg
Now this gets to a gray area. You can use a bearing seperator if you have one and the bearings should come off the shafts rather easily. The small impellar bearing was stuck in the case for me, so I had picked up a slide hammer from the parts store loaner tools. The jaws were way too big to get all three in the inner race of the bearing. It has a roughly 14mm inner diameter. If looking for a pilot bearing puller keep this in mind. There is still a decent amount of room below the bearing so you can hook the jaws in. I removed all but one jaw from the slide hammer, hooked it under the bearing and a couple quick pops with me standing one foot on the casing and it came right out.
Now back to the larger bearing that was still on the input shaft. It looked something like this.
DSCF0609.jpg
I didn't have a bearing separator, so I used my 3 jaw puller. The jaws that came on the puller were too large to get clearance under the bearing between the gear, but I was able to swap the jaws from the slide hammer onto it which were thinner and get it to work. After the bearings are off, you can pry the metal washer off the end of the input shaft. Then slip the belt off the gears. If yours isn't broken and still looks to be in good shape, you may want to keep it as an emergency spare, but you should replace it with new during the rebuild.
Once the belt is out, remove the bolts holding the impellar housing in place. Then flip the s/c over and remove the impellar housing. Remove the impellar bolt using an impact wrench. If you don't have an impact wrench, you need to devise some way to keep the impellar from spinning while removing the bolt. This may be easier during another step in the process. Once off, remove the impellar.
DSCF0530.jpg
There may be some spacers under the impellar, remove them as well.
DSCF0531.jpg
Now take your mallet and wood block if necessary to prevent damage to the shaft, and tap the impellar shaft to free it from the casing. Mine came out with one quick tap with the inner bearing still on the impellar shaft. If this isn't the case for you, you'll probably have to use the pilot bearing puller or slide hammer to get the bearing out of the case.You should now have something like this.
DSCF0529.jpg
If the bearing is still on the shaft, you can use a bearing separator to remove it. I was able to hook my 3 jaw puller on the washer and remove it that way.
DSCF0603.jpg
Now I got some mixed ideas when wondering how to approach the large gear shaft and bearing. If you can find a gear puller that will work, go for it. I couldn't, so I used one of the jaws from my 3 jaw puller. If you put something over the end of it you might be able to avoid nicking the case and gear, but if you don't it shouldn't hurt anything to nick them up a bit. Then I marked a position on the gear with a marker, then tapped the jaw and rotated the gear 1/3 of a revolution and repeated until it was free from the casing.
DSCF0540.jpg
The bearing from the large gear shaft stayed in the casing for me. I was able to put two of the jaws on the slide hammer, jam them in the center of the bearing and lightly hammer them into place until they grabbed the under side, then slide hammered them out. You should be able to use a pilot bearing puller to remove this as well.
DSCF0526.jpg
Last edited by Tagz; 05-29-2007 at 02:06 AM.
Here is the gear shaft removed. If the bearing is still on it, you can use the bearing separator or 3 jaw puller to remove it.
DSCF0537.jpg
You should now have a completely disassembled supercharger. Sit back and admire your mechanical skills while enjoying an adult beverage.
Enough relaxing, now to install the new bearings. I'm running a 9psi pulley so I'm cranking the bearings pretty hard. So I went with the ceramic bearing rebuild kit from 928 Motorsports. Other cheaper bearing and belt kits are available through ebay and other places as well.
http://www.928motorsports.com/parts/...rebuildkit.php
Begin by cleaning the hell out of everything. I used some spray carb cleaner I had around from cleaning my bike carbs.
Now another gray area where you can use a variety of tools to accomplish the same goal, which is to get the new bearings on the shafts. Start with the large gear shaft. I used a large c-clamp to press the new bearing on the bottom of the shaft.
DSCF0599.jpg
DSCF0601.jpg
At this point I tapped the inner bearing/large gear shaft assembly back into the casing. Then installed the new outer bearing onto the shaft. You should be able to install the bearing on the shaft before putting it in the case as well. You can press the new outer bearing onto the shaft using whichever tool you decide. I used a mallet and an appropriately sized socket. Make sure whatever you use applies pressure on the inner race. You don't want to side load the bearing and damage it.
DSCF0603.jpg
Now you have the large gear input shaft and bearing assembly compelted and in the casing. Move on to the impellar shaft. Decide how you want to install the new inner bearing on the impellar shaft. I used my handy 3 jaw puller again, then didn't decide that was working too well, so I used the s/c casing itself and my mallet to tap the bearing into place by inserting the impellar shaft in through the impellar side. Make sure you flatten out and install the metal washer against the gear before installing the bearing.
DSCF0596.jpg
DSCF0597.jpg
Now place the impellar shaft/inner bearing assembly back into the case. Mine didn't require pressing, but you could use any of the earlier methods to put it in the case.
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Now slip the new belt on.
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Flatten out and install the washer on the impellar gear.
DSCF0608.jpg
Now press/tap/whatever the new bearing on the impellar shaft.
DSCF0610.jpg
Now you should have something like this.
DSCF0611.jpg
Now place the top casing on the entire assembly.
DSCF0613.jpg
Now you will need to press/clamp/tap the casing onto the bearings until it gets close enough to use the 14 hex screws to close it all up. I carefully did this using a combination of a c-clamp and mallet. Once you can get the screws started tighten them slowly in a cross pattern to install the casing completely. Then tighten up all the hex screws.
DSCF0615.jpg
You should be looking like this now.
DSCF0617.jpg
Now flip the s/c over and reinstall the impellar. Don't forget to use the spacer washers if you had them before. Then use some loc-tite and impact wrench to install the impellar bolt. Then install the impellar casing. Leave the bolts loose enough to change the position of the impellar housing when you go to reinstall it. Or you could be smart and mark the position before unbolting it. Just don't clean your marks off when beginning the rebuild.
DSCF0618.jpg
Now you just need to reinstall the s/c pulley. Insert the metal key into the groove on the shaft, then tap the pulley onto the shaft. Use loc-tite and an impact wrench to install the bolt.
Tada! You're done. Happy boosting.
Very nice write-up. I don't know if I missed it, but how much did the entire DIY cost you?
R.I.P.
95 Daytona Violet TURBO M3/2
Dove Alcantara/ Dark Grey Leather
awesome writeup... good job
Custom Twin Charge build... tuned by VIC@SIASTUNING 11psi 400whp 400ftlb with a slipping clutch, high boost
GTK-650 (.7 comp and .68 or .81 turbines),Eaton M62 (clutched S/C), Custom 11" Crank Pulley ,Cometic 0.14" HG, Walbro255, TEC3r, Tial 50mm BOV, Tial 44mm Wastegate, SP Alcohol injection Stg1, UUC LTWFW stg2, spec performance organic clutch, Siemens 72lb injectors, 24x12x4 FMIC, 3" intercooler pipings, s54 oil filter housing,666 Topmount manifold, and oil cooler kit.
Bingo, but only because I went with the most expensive (and hopefully the most reliable) option. You can get a new belt and bearings for under $100. So if you're looking to do a basic rebuild it can be done for that much. Make use of your local parts store's loaner tools if you don't have what's required. O'Reilly's, Advance, and Autozone all have loaner tools.
Great write up! Let us know how long you run before the next re-build/belt change.
Really nice pictorial writeup. My hat's off to you, sir!
___________________
Paul E
'11 AW 135i ; Sold: '99 White M3 81k mi; Dinan SC kit, 6"/3.48" sc pulleys, Aftercooler: 10.5 psi-367 SAE rwhp/304 rwftlbs @80 degrees ambient (still with OBDII manifold & stock cats); DynoTuning by Nick G (techniquetuning.com); Speed Shop: Imported Cars of Stamford; AA-Aquamist Water Injection, exhaust, clutch; Fikse FM-10s; Koni Suspension; Stealthboxes
http://s11.photobucket.com/albums/a173/boostm3/
Congrats. Nice to know there's a fellow PD user in KC. I've got about 12k on mine (daily driven).
Tagz Don't know your day job, but perhaps you've missed your calling. The BD-11 rebuild experience posted here w/pictures is outstanding and I thank you. In the midst of rebuilding my identical SC, I happened onto this forum while searching for better bearings. You clarified several uncertainties and I was more confident in having a successful job. (It is...so far.) I can add only a couple of measures that might have helped me a bit in minimizing damage to the components. 1) rubber-jaw inserts on the bench vice to grip the impeller; 2)I heated the cases on the backside of the bearing (if it stays in the case), especially the thru bearing for the impeller shaft; 3)heat the cases and cool (freeze) the bearings and shafts for reassembly. It amazed me how much clearance was available thru expansion and shrinkage. But, I had to work quickly before they equalized. Thanks again and I owe you a beer. Heck, I'll spring for a whole six-pack.
Great pictures and descriptive write up...good to know there's people willing to take the time to put their experiences out there. Nice work on the re-build too
Awesome post!
Active Autowerke C38 stage 2 on 95 dakar yellow M3, 30k miles
.080 mls headgasket, ARP headstuds and obd2 valve retainers; Stewart water pump; Dunlop Z1's on staggered CSL's.
387whp, 296wtrq --- girls dig dakar
Great post! Thanks.
Todd DeHate - Turbo Charging Dynamics
1985 535i euro LSX Turbo
503rwhp/485rwtq
Glad to see its been helpful. Hopefully this will save a lot of people time, trouble and $$$ on rebuilds!
Here are the bearing numbers for sourcing your own bearings.
Impeller shaft bearings: 6202-2Z/C3
Drive shaft bearings: 6205-2Z/C3GJN 1621137X
This place carries them at reasonable prices, but you can still get them cheaper from a bearing supplier.
http://www.stattama.com/index.cfm?fu...2959&pageid=43
Edit 4-17-08:
While at Ace Westlake hardware the other night, I discovered they have the proper size bearings in stock in their hardware aisle. ~$40 for all 4. I don't know the quality of the bearings or what their rpm rating is, but they're the proper numbers. So if anyone gets in a pinch, try Ace hardware.
Last edited by Tagz; 04-17-2008 at 10:09 AM.
Great info, Thanks!
Thanks for the pictures. I always wanted to see the breather holes modification that Dinan made on the Powerdyne blowers close up but could never find anyone who had good pictures of it.
Yes! Awesome work. I've been looking for a good write up like this.
BTW. I'm surprised that Dinan made such an ugly job of the breather holes. I really like the approach 928motorsports uses.
Thanks!
I read your post and tried to access your pictures and could not gain access by any means and was wondering if you could email them to me direclty at natesilv@aol.com
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