Firstly well documented write up, and wonderful follow-ups.
After having my '95 318i breakdown not to long ago it was tow truck home and and evening of head scratching and a garage full of stale smoke, thankfully not from the car but rather my lungs.
The smoke from the car had occurred earlier, anyways I'm assuming all the hoses around the ICV are vacuum. After the overheating escapades i poured water in my radiator after realising i had a loss somewhere along the line and, viola water coming out right near the ICV, a split hose from what i can see.
Now if anyone could explain how this could come to be it would be greatly appreciated.
Cheers
Mr. M, Nice pics! Very nice! I have a couple of questions. I took the ICV out and cleaned it per your instructions. I checked all hoses and found that the one leading to the air box was cracked, near the top. Will this crack give false air and subsequently a rough idle? The car cranks, but turns over intermittently. I then unplugged the ICV, and it works like a champ. What problems will I run into if I leave it unplugged? Also, is it the cracked hose that is giving me the problem or the ICV itself? Thanks
Holy crap us 92'ers have it so easy. I took off the whole upper manifold only to realize I didn't have to . Cleaning the ICV worked ok until I took the car for a hard drive. After the hard drive and working the RPM's it idled perfectly.
Should the ICV mechanism move freely or should there be a little spring loaded resistance when moving it around???
mine didn't move at all
I know this thread is about DIY cleaning but I was wondering if anyone knew if the ICV is bad if it is giving low resistance with the multimeter? The bentley shows it shouid be 20 (+/-5) ohms but mine comes out to 10.
clean the icv last week using OP instructions. fairly straight forward, but it was a pita to get to the icv (on a M52B25). cleaning was cake and putting the hose all back was easy, took me 2.5 hours, 1/2 just trying to find the icv.
Can you clean the ICV with WD-40???
No! Don't use it. You buterfly will get dirts go for carb cleaner
I don't think so.
I kinda recall from the bentley book seeming they just listen for the vacuum suction something.
But for me, just diagnose w/ carsoft, no guessing game though.
Last edited by psyyambmw; 12-12-2008 at 01:57 AM. Reason: Automerged Doublepost
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WD-40 is not safe, nor is carb cleaner. Use throttle-body cleaner that is marked teflon safe.
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I was minutes away from cleaning the ICV and spraying some WD-40 into it, until I read the last few posts. Why oh why?
I had a rough idle/stall problem after starting about a year ago, I did this DIY, cleaned the ICV with Throttle body cleaner (no mention of teflon safe on it), and the problem went away completely, started like a new car. For one year. Now the problem is back. When I start the car, it starts fine, revs gently to 1500, then just as gently drops to 0 and stalls. I can usually fix it, but letting the revs drop to about 500 until the engine starts to die and throb violently (I know, not good) and giving it a bit of gas, the throbbing / rocking violently seems to solve the problem (probably creating other problems at the same time).
I've seen in other write-ups of this DIY that people spray WD-40 into the ICV. This makes sense to me and I don't see how it would hurt, as long as you don't just douse it in WD-40 and make sure the WD is on the valve only and not on the hoses.
Can someone please reply and explain why WD-40 won't work or is bad, please. Thank you in advance.
*edit*
Answer to my own question: I was hoping to use WD-40 to lubricate the ICV as well as clean it. Having done a bit of googling, I discovered that WD-40 is not a lubricant at all and evaporates after a while anyway. So then, a new question: what can I use to lubricate the ICV. I imagine oil of any kind is a bad idea, or is it? Please help.
How about Dry Teflon lube?
Last edited by L3B0W5K1; 01-09-2009 at 08:53 PM.
On my 93 318 I didnt have to remove the intake. The hose curved around the intake to the idle control valve. I could remove the idle control valve and all with out removing the intake manifold.
1969 GTO Warwick Blue/Parchment
2000 740i Sport 6 speed
Delmarco,
Per Pelican, the part number is for the hose with the Y-shaped connectors, whereas the one in the picture is not Y-shaped.12 AIR HOSE HC1/2 1 09/1994 13411739650 $18.41 $26.00
I recently bought a 1993 318i and the previous owner alerted me about the rough/intermittent idle issue. He said it needed a new ICV since he had cleaned the old one and the problem went away, but came back.
So I replaced the ICV and the same thing happened. Car ran out great for a week, but now the idle is once again bouncing between 500 and 1500 rpm.
I did notice that one of the hoses was taped up when I replaced the ICV, so I will replace those and see what happens.
Last edited by hellig; 09-15-2009 at 11:56 PM. Reason: Automerged Doublepost
for a 1998 m3 s52 ... not sure if same as m52 ?
No need to remove manifold ... however you should plan on cleaning the maf and throttle .. because you will have access to these while getting to the icv.
1. Remove MAF
a. spray clean with maf cleaner
2. Remove rubber boot
a. check for cracks
b. note: the hose connected on bottom of boot will lead you to the icv
3. Remove 1st throttle (two 10mm bolts)
4. Remove 2nd throttle (four bolts)
a. you may want to purchase a new gasket when you reinstall
5. To remove icv
a. icv is held in place by a metal bracket (with a rubber strap) which
is secured by two bolts to the body of the car.
b. to find the bolt
1. follow the oil dipstick holder to where it is secure to the body of
of the car by one bolt.
2. above the dipstick bolt is the two bolts that secures the icv
c. Remove all three bolts that hold the dipstick and icv
d. remove the hose that connects to the icv
e. Now grab hold of the icv and pull down until it pops off
(it is only held in place by a rubber connector so just pull it down)
f. disconnect the sensor connector and remove the icv
6. Clean the heck out of the icv .. don't reinstall until you hear the click
sounds as you turn it side to side.
good luck ... this shouldn't take long .. but you'll need to wait til parts are dry before reinstall.
i have a 1996 318ic with a manual 4cyl motor. and my ICV isnt where this write-up says it should be. wheres it at???
Ya motor is an M44 mate.
Does it look like this?
So, the ICV is the item# 9. A lot more easy to service though.
Here's realoem link for ya further info http://www.realoem.com/bmw/showparts...g=15&lang=enUS
Good luck
Last edited by psyyambmw; 10-27-2009 at 12:36 AM. Reason: Automerged Doublepost
This is GREAT! I took mine apart exactly like these steps and it was EEEEEEEEEEEEASY!! I have never workded on a BMW before but this made it VERY easy to do. We have been having the same rough idle issue and the clown down at MIDAS who does work "on the side" could NOT get the car running any better! I hope this works after I put it back together! My ICV is now drying out after it's alcohol bath! THANKS A BUNCH for this post!
Hey budy, check out my reply. I did it just as the original poster showed. We have a 94 318is Auto and it looked just like the pics in this post. It was VERY EASY and I have NEVER workded on a BMW b4. Go for it.......you can do it billy madison!
Last edited by richboss302; 11-22-2009 at 05:00 PM. Reason: Automerged Doublepost
what are the two hole under the upper manifold, because i am doing a swap on a 1994 318i with an m42 motor i have everything hook up right but under the upper manifold i have two hose that i cant figure out where they go.
please help.
hey guys i know this is totally different than what your talking about but i have a 93 318i. Ive had a bad problem with cold starts. It takes bout 3 to 5 minutes to start just spittin and sputterin tryin to to start then it will start and idle up then idle down and die. It'll do that three or four times and then finally itll start and idle then go up and down almost dyeing till after bout 6 to 7 minutes itll smooth out and run fine once the temp gauge comes up. I pulled the codes and it said temp sensor replaced and it didnt change anything. Well then the other day i pulled up at parts store and killed it when i came back out it wouldnt start just crank crank crank no hit at all. So I disconected the battery and let sit for a minute hooked it back up and it started right up. Its done that a couple times since. Well now today I drove my car all day starting and stopping no problem several times today. When I got home i backed it up on ramps and was doing some measurments on the exaust and when i went to start it it wouldnt start. Ive tried the battery thing like usuall and it worked so i drove to the store and it ran fine killed it went in come back out started back up come home. When I went to leave again guess what it wouldnt start. I tried everything like usual plus more and what itll do now is after i disconect the battery for a few minutes itll start rev up to about 2500 and then die and then i have to start over again. I am at an end and dont know what else to do. Do any of you have any ideas....?? I think maybe DME or fuel pump???
I think I need to do this to my 96 318ti. I replaced my temp sensor. But had no luck. When she is cold she idles way to low and goes to stall. So I have to sit there every time she is cold and keep her revs about 2k for a min, then she is less likely to stall. When cold she idles about 400 when hot 1200. Think this is the icv?
Thankyou
matt
Matt- Sounds like it very well could be the ICV. I was having somewhat similar problems with my 318is, and cleaning the ICV and throttle body helped a lot. The boot before the throttle body had a small rip, and I think all kinds of sludge was getting in. Replacing the boot and cleaning these areas made a big difference. I also found a cracked vac hose, and got to know the car better. It cost nothing but $4 for a can of cleaner (although I think starter fluid worked better?), took about an hour or two, and solved many problems. Why not?
PS Don't spray the cleaner directly into the throttle body.
PSS Have a full socket set with extenders and a angle or flexy extender, and a magnet on a stick just in case. Also, snap a few quick photos after each part comes off, just in case you get distracted or delayed before putting everything back together.
Good Luck!
Last edited by NYCHighwheeler; 03-15-2010 at 12:24 PM.
You need clean your ICV, and also your intake path :MAF, and Filter mainly. Actually this should like a routine thing specially if u r living in a dry place.
here is a DIY for the ICV cleaning:
http://www.unitedbimmer.com/forums/b...aning-diy.html
I did this to my M42 today. The idle is rock solid now. Thanks!
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