Thanks, looking forward do doing this myself!Originally Posted by a32guy
Dan
Well, I think i'm gonna push this car off a cliff. The problem is back. I tried switching solenoids, still back. Ran great all night last night, drove about 30 miles. This morning it drove great for 10 minutes, then it decided I shouldn't have any joy in life, and crapped out.
I don't know what to do now, I offically am sick of this car.
-Chris
Originally Posted by a32guy
Shit.
I am messing with my VANOS right now - I am almost convinced that it is my solenoid that is a piece of shit. Took it out and tested it, it works, but it's kind of slow in its action. Which for me, might prove it. Check my reasoning:
My hesitation only happens from idle, and only happens when I take the clutch right out and go.
It does NOT happen as much if I rev it up to about 1.5k and wait a second, then go.
I feel that my VANOS solenoid is a little sluggish coming out.
VANOS kicks in right above idle, right?
So maybe when I'm revving it up, the solenoid comes out, and I'm good to go. But if I don't, then the solenoid is taking its sweet time and that's what the hesitation is. Make sense?
Then again, sometimes it seems logic doesn't apply to these cars. Have you taken the solenoid off ever?
Dan
Dan
Great, now its working fine... I dont understand this car.
It could very well be your solenoid Dan.
-Chris
Wish I could understand this TDC timing thing.. What exactly do you look at to determine this ?
E36 NON Vanos and Misc Parts for Sale
http://s1126.photobucket.com/user/To...25i%2092/story
http://s1126.photobucket.com/user/Tomfordny/library/
Well, on my '92 i have no VANOS, so that couldn't have been my problem.
I would get a fairly rough idle, with bogging around 1500 to 2500 rpm, and an
occasional mild backfire... I changed the plugs and filters, still same.
I took it to a bmw mechanic, and he suggested it was some of the coils.
So I ordered 6 new coils for peace of mind, and voila, all the hesitation
and bogging and backfiring is gone! Woohoo, its like a new car.
Just wanted to share my experience.
Cheers,
Mitch
Coils and/or o2 sensor?
Sorry, yes, I also replaced the O2 sensor a couple of weeks ago, but that brought no noticeable improvement...
if it is mainly at 4000rpm, use single electrode plugs, gap them to 44-50 thou, and put in clean gas from a new station, drain all the old out, and put in 2 cups methyl hydrate in the tank when full, beat the car a lil on that tank, prob will go away... its ignition...
silver328I, ARP studs, copper gasket,stock injectors!! adabted bbk F-reg current 66psi (rich and intermitten sticking open,over injector tolerance), bbk 255lph adapted inline f-pump,dual 2 1/2" track pipe, 02 simulators, alum.Plasma Direct coils, ngk single electrode plugs at .0045,acshnitvizzle manifold (m50 grenaded @t-body mate),fan delete, ASC delete ,CDV delete,UCC underdrive crank pulley, removed A/C components, weight reduced, 3.38LSD , 75c degree stat,18x8.5 ADR M-Sports,m3 mouldings, euro tails, clear sides/corners,cusom coilovers, broken subframe, "Lejune aluminum/alloy cam chain, 97'm3 cams", 8mm overbored throtle body, t-body coolant bypass, alum f-wheel, m5 clutch goodbye,reverted obd2 management, nitrous express no more!!! used vortec s-trim,2.50" pulley, 17psi @ 6900rpm, 94' sc t-bird intercooler (small but resiliant) self engineered 3" t6 mandrel bent intake routing, estimated 430hp octane/air density permiting, under $1400 completed!!
My problem wasn't o2 sensors, but coil packs. I finally got an engine code and it was a misfire on cylinder #2. Repolacing the coil packs and plugs is the resolution. When I took my packs out, each one was "flashed". So I would look into that maybe in conjunction with some older o2's.
.
"My fellow Americans, I have not been entirely truthful with you. I did gagoogity that girl. I gaschmoigitied her gaflavidy with my googus, and I am sorry" -Quagmire
____________________________________________
ACS Shift Knob -+- ACS E-Brake Handle -+- ACS Floor Mat Kit -+- 18" CSL Wheels -+- Supersport 4-Way Adjustable Coilovers -+- Depos with: HID, Chromium Predator Angel Eyes, PNP and Stoneguard -+- Brembo slotted rotors -+- Hawk pads -+- Clear corners -+- Euro Tails -+- Alpine CDA-9827 -+- Boston Acoustic Pro 6.5 -+- Boston Acoustic RX-47 -+- Zapco 220 x 2 -+- JL Audio 500.1 -+- 2 x JL Audio 10" W6v2 -+- M3 Moldings w/ BMW Motorsport badges -+- More on the way...
Originally Posted by rast4
Please explain "flashed"
Thanks,
Dan
Dan
On both sides of the coil you can see a white, almost burnt residue. That is the result of "flashing".
.
"My fellow Americans, I have not been entirely truthful with you. I did gagoogity that girl. I gaschmoigitied her gaflavidy with my googus, and I am sorry" -Quagmire
____________________________________________
ACS Shift Knob -+- ACS E-Brake Handle -+- ACS Floor Mat Kit -+- 18" CSL Wheels -+- Supersport 4-Way Adjustable Coilovers -+- Depos with: HID, Chromium Predator Angel Eyes, PNP and Stoneguard -+- Brembo slotted rotors -+- Hawk pads -+- Clear corners -+- Euro Tails -+- Alpine CDA-9827 -+- Boston Acoustic Pro 6.5 -+- Boston Acoustic RX-47 -+- Zapco 220 x 2 -+- JL Audio 500.1 -+- 2 x JL Audio 10" W6v2 -+- M3 Moldings w/ BMW Motorsport badges -+- More on the way...
Hmmm...I have this...Originally Posted by rast4
What do you mean "both sides"? Its circular at the bottom...
Dan
Ok. Around the pack itself, is what I am referring to. It is visible on the entire circumference of the pack.
.
"My fellow Americans, I have not been entirely truthful with you. I did gagoogity that girl. I gaschmoigitied her gaflavidy with my googus, and I am sorry" -Quagmire
____________________________________________
ACS Shift Knob -+- ACS E-Brake Handle -+- ACS Floor Mat Kit -+- 18" CSL Wheels -+- Supersport 4-Way Adjustable Coilovers -+- Depos with: HID, Chromium Predator Angel Eyes, PNP and Stoneguard -+- Brembo slotted rotors -+- Hawk pads -+- Clear corners -+- Euro Tails -+- Alpine CDA-9827 -+- Boston Acoustic Pro 6.5 -+- Boston Acoustic RX-47 -+- Zapco 220 x 2 -+- JL Audio 500.1 -+- 2 x JL Audio 10" W6v2 -+- M3 Moldings w/ BMW Motorsport badges -+- More on the way...
Do you mean at the bottom of the tube (boot) or with the boot off?Originally Posted by rast4
Sorry to be a pain in the ass!
Dan
Dan
The coil pack itself, not the "tube" that the plug caps onto. Basically, with the cover off and the coils in place, you can visually see on the sides that they are "flashed" or not. Then obviously, when you take them out and inspect them more, it is more apparent on the round top part itself.
.
"My fellow Americans, I have not been entirely truthful with you. I did gagoogity that girl. I gaschmoigitied her gaflavidy with my googus, and I am sorry" -Quagmire
____________________________________________
ACS Shift Knob -+- ACS E-Brake Handle -+- ACS Floor Mat Kit -+- 18" CSL Wheels -+- Supersport 4-Way Adjustable Coilovers -+- Depos with: HID, Chromium Predator Angel Eyes, PNP and Stoneguard -+- Brembo slotted rotors -+- Hawk pads -+- Clear corners -+- Euro Tails -+- Alpine CDA-9827 -+- Boston Acoustic Pro 6.5 -+- Boston Acoustic RX-47 -+- Zapco 220 x 2 -+- JL Audio 500.1 -+- 2 x JL Audio 10" W6v2 -+- M3 Moldings w/ BMW Motorsport badges -+- More on the way...
okay i have this problem too. But mines a 92 so it doesn't have vanos, i noticed almost everyone in here has vanos, i read every single post and have come up with 2 solutions, coils, or o2 sensor. BUT before i spend this kind of money i want to know which to start with. here are my symptoms..
the car will sometimes accelerate slowely, it'll just bog down after i slow down or stop and then when i try to accelerate it'll bog. It doesn't happen all the time, it'll happens when it's cold but more often when it's hot outside. It's annoying sometimes i'll be needing to make a quick turn across lanes and it'll bog on me. It idols fine, never had a problem with the idol. Also when i'm accelerating hard on the freeway, from about 60 to 100 or so it'll bog at about 5500rpms for just a split second then it'll just keep climbing to 7400 then shift like normal. Also when it bogs it'll sometimes backfire through my intake. It's not backfiring from the exhaust, but i'll hear a loud pop come from my intake. also i don't ever have any check engine lights or anything. the car does run rich.. ALL THE TIME, but i've been told thats because of my chip. I've removed my chip and noticed no difference so it's not the chip.
mods...
-cold air intake
-dinan gen1 catback
-dinan ecu chip
-dinan auto chip
I had this problem. It came up as an error 83 on the diagnostics which is the crank shaft sensor. I replaced it, about £60, never had the propblem again.
A buddy of mines 318ti had a problem with accelerating and just getting up to speed. We checked a bunch of stuff explained here in these many pages of info, but im not going to read through all of them. One thing people don't check is the catalytic converter. That was the problem on this 318ti and it regained its healthy power and acceleration again once we changed it. Im not sure if anyone else has had this problem, but its just another thing to check if you've tried everything else.
i have been haven this prob for a while and finally got off my butt and started messing with the car today it was running rich and bogging BAD. i added a k&n air filter and a new O2 sensor first thing this morning and been driveing around all day and no more problems (knock on wood) it is running great now hope it stays
Originally Posted by green325ibimmer
i have your problem. i hesitate all the time but its only really noticeable at freeway speeds and when hot out. ill be accelerating on freeway it will jump rpms and then go right back down accelerating doing this every 2 seconds
If the RPMs are jumping and you're not going anywhere, you need a new clutch...Originally Posted by jackasswhy
Dan
im automatic
Just thought I would bump this to see if anyone's made any progress.
I will be replacing my VANOS solenoid sometime soon, then if that's not it, coils. Who knows.
Dan
Dan
Mines getting worse....
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