I just paid like $480 for a FI service, didn't help a bit.
That which is seen is temporary, that which is unseen is eternal, therefore, focus on the unseen things.
Originally Posted by unseenthings
$480 ? WTF ? For what ? New injectors and fuel rail or what ?
E39 M5 Individual ( RIP IN DUBAI)
FS: Misc E36 318 M42 Parts
yep same here, put some good ol black ducktape around it.Originally Posted by YaYo325
One thing I learned about this weekend and somehting you guys should look into is to check if the vanos screen ( filter) is not clogged. I did not get to much information as to where this filter is but heard a clogged filter contributes to failures of the vanos as well as new replacements. To my knowledge BMW does not sell this filter but there are other distributors that do. I found this info in a BMW magazine ( dont recall exactly which one) in the technical Q &A section
I have this same issue, the hesitation etc. I also have a slight pinging between the same rpms (2000-2800k rpms) i use the highest octane, had my knock sensors replaced, fuel filter replaced, sparkplugs etc, nothing seems to help whatso ever. could it be the crankshaft position sensor? also i get the same rappin chain sound, could that be caused by the timing chain tensioner being weak?
this is driving me nuts!!
In the most recent "Fast Times" the newsletter from Bav Auto some one writes in with similar loss of power problems on a 87 325i. I'll just type out the whole thing, sorry if there are typos.
Dear Bavarian Otto,
I have just recently begun having trouble when I accelerate in my 87 325i. I lose power momentarily and then it comes back a second later. I changed all of the spark plugs, thinking that maybe one was out, but that wasn't the problem. I think that it has to do with the fuel filter or pump. What do you think the problem is and how can I fix it? Please help me ASAP, before I have to walk to school! Thanks.
While it can't hurt to replace your fuel filter, this isn't likely to be the cause of your problem. A stumble during acceleration can be caused by a failing oxygen sensor. If you have no apparent vacuum leaks and the car is idling and driving fine otherwise, that's what I would try first.
He then goes on talking about how much the part costs and what he needs to do to replace it. He also mentioned that O2 sensors usually last around 60,000 miles.
I know this problem was on a e30 but I thought I would pass it along....
Originally Posted by PJ Steamboat
Hmm...I guess it's a possibility, but my O2 sensor is only 7,000 miles old. Though I guess its possible I got a bad one, or maybe my cats are bad?
Why don't you take off your cats and see how it runs
Wow now that i think of it... my cat stinks like SIN... i wonder if it could be clogged? And once the motor warms up, it makes it worse? Hmmm something to try. I think its running rich too. Maybe I'll try a new cat (or no cat ) and oxygen sensor. Does a 93 just have one o2 sensor?
Yes...one sensor. Maybe it is the cats...don't want to know what they run...Originally Posted by a32guy
cats are expensive
I know that in California, if you fail emissions, the state will help you pay to fix what is needed to pass, if you have insufficient funds
2004 SilberGrau M3 Coupe 6MT No roof No Power or Heated Seats No Nav
Look for some used M3 ones, they don't go for that much.Originally Posted by dmurray14
Kinghawk: where is this vanos filter located?
I also have a new o2 sensor. The motor is very smooth now. Ive had MAF codes come up. I think its due to a little vacuum leak I have someplace, around my TB. Ive been busy but tomorrow Im going to look for it.
Why are they cheap? And what advantage do M3 cats have? Also, how does one tell if used cats are good?Originally Posted by PJ Steamboat
M3 cats usually go for around $200 but you can find them for less. I am not sure of the advantage but it's from a M3 so it must be better I know one way that you can tell if you cats are failing is if they smell like rotten eggs (sulfur).Originally Posted by dmurray14
Update: Won a vanos unit on ebay for $18
(If you were the high bid until the last three seconds I appologize, but sniping is the only way to go on ebay )
Also talked to a friend who's buddy works at a local dealership. He can get me the cam lock tool to borrow for a weekend
Now the question is when will I get off my lazy butt to do this? And will it even do anything?
I'm thinking if its not the vanos, I'm going to change the DME, o2 sensor, and possibly MAF but not sure about that one.
Please let us know!Originally Posted by a32guy
I fixed my problem.. It was the coolant temp sensor..
What did not work..
Coils, MAS, plugs, cam position sensor..
Are you serious? Did it run decent when cold then get crappy when warm with the same symptoms? If so I'll go to the dealership right now and change it out.Originally Posted by zeit00
Let us know!! Thanks man!
Nope it ran crappy the moment it fired up.. But if the sensor was sending out a bogus signal, it wouldn't make a difference if the car was hot or cold.. The car probably always thought it was freezing cold and would rich out the fuel..Originally Posted by a32guy
Did you replace 13 or 15?
EDIT: Picture fixed
Last edited by a32guy; 10-24-2005 at 02:34 PM.
no hotlinking allowed..Originally Posted by a32guy
Oops, fixed ^^^Originally Posted by zeit00
I replaced both.. They are cheap.
Was having a massive surging problem. Replaced the O2 sensor this weekend and now the miles per gallon needle is steady as a rock - even up hills or with the AC on. Can't believe what a change the new sensor is making. My mpg is going to be sooo much better. I haven't noticed a distinct change like this since I replaced my cabin filter a few weeks ago. Just wish I would have dropped the $ for a new O2 sensor at 100k instead of 135k