Is that the head gasket kit from BavAuto?
EDIT: Page 30 ownerages.
Last edited by Spood; 03-24-2006 at 10:34 PM.
It's starting to look like multiple problems cause similar symptoms, meaning there wont be a "be all, end all" solution to this thread!!!!
This thread could go on for...infinity!
That's what I've been starting to think for the past couple days. We just need a procedure.Originally Posted by NASAg03
what exactly did you fix?Originally Posted by 1994325is
I think hes talking about the valve cover gasketOriginally Posted by Necrodomis
Man 30 pages of nothing. We should get a reward or somethin.
1990 Nissan 300zx NA Auto, 1992 BMW 325i Manual
well my car stoped doing the boggin and the hesitation but still a little rpm dancing checking the valve cover tomorrow and i am sure that i have an exhaust leak $$300 dollars for a freakin valve cover gasket or does the include the coil connectors.
The valve cover gasket kit includes pulg gaskets too. I only spent about $40 including new plastic grommets.Originally Posted by Jdizzle318
~Phil
Madeiraviolett Bf.C club member #001
1996 BMW 328is Madeiraviolett/Dove Grey: 5 Spd, Sport, Cold Weather & Premium Sound pkgs.
3.5" ECIS/ITG intake -> Samco ASC Delete Boot -> DINAN TB -> M50 Manifold -> S52 Cams | Bav Auto Red-top ignition coils tuned w/ AA software, Dynomax Cats & Stromung exhaust UUC Pulleys & Clutch stop, FDM=Zionsville radiator, Mishimoto Tank, SAMCO hoses, Fidanza LTW flywheel & M3 clutch, UUC Evo3 SSK, 3.23 LSD, Koni/Eibach Adjustable Damper suspension, PUR RSM's & RTABs, CF Strut brace, UUC Swaybarbarians, Motorsport X-Brace, 17x8 Beyern Mesh wheels Hella CELIS projectors + 5k TRS HID's, Fog delete=Brake cooling duct, LTW wing, ///M Bumper & R. Diffuser
CCA Member #382557
I think he replaced the rubber boots coming from the coils.
anyone working on it now? I need to figure this out this week on my spring break. I am going to go through everything again and check it all.
I have reason to believe that it is being caused by the MAF
I cleaned my sensor and my car ran like a beast but then it came back, so my guess is something is wrong with it, I will most likely buy a new one here soon and try that and I will let you guys know how that goes.
My cat just went out so imma have to replace that soon and hope it's the only culprit. I've already replaced my MAF so it shouldn't be that for me. I've had my cat in my mind lately but due to personal issues haven't been able to replace it even tho it wasn't rattling. Now i have no excuse ^_^
Seemingly i'm under the impression that it could occur because of a compliment of problems, a group of them that compliment each other that creates said problem.
I know my cat is part of the problem, my entire cooling system, only thing left to replace if i'm overheating would be the HG. I have new plugs, a new MAF, and a few other things i can't remember off the top of my head, but i'm sure an o2 sensor could also be adding to this problem.
UGH, in the past 3 weeks I have:
Replaced VCG
Replaced Spark Plug gaskets
Replaced Spark Plugs
Replaced O2 sensors
Replaced T-stat w/ 75 degree (fdm)
Replaced Coolant Hoses; Upper, Lower & Overlow tank
Replaced Coolant Level Sensor
Replaced Fan Swtich to lower temp model (fdm)
Installed Zionsville Aluminum Radiator (fdm)
Replaced VANOS Solenoid
Replaced Intake Boot
Replaced a few dried out Vac lines w/ Silicone
Cleaned TB
Adjusted Throttel Cables
Removed Mechanical Fan(fdm)
Car idles fine, sometimes revs(maybe ICV)but I still have NO low end. I am getting these codes w/ peake tool:
- Vanos Solenoid
- Vanos Mechanically Stuck
- Misfire Cyl. 4
- Misfire Cyl. 5
- Misfire Cyl. 6
- O2 sensor beyond adaptation, bank 1
- O2 sensor beyond adaptation, bank 2
HELP!!!! I used Anti-Seize on the Plugs, is that a ? I read on Pelican AFTER the car was back together it may cause grounding issues.
~Phil
Madeiraviolett Bf.C club member #001
1996 BMW 328is Madeiraviolett/Dove Grey: 5 Spd, Sport, Cold Weather & Premium Sound pkgs.
3.5" ECIS/ITG intake -> Samco ASC Delete Boot -> DINAN TB -> M50 Manifold -> S52 Cams | Bav Auto Red-top ignition coils tuned w/ AA software, Dynomax Cats & Stromung exhaust UUC Pulleys & Clutch stop, FDM=Zionsville radiator, Mishimoto Tank, SAMCO hoses, Fidanza LTW flywheel & M3 clutch, UUC Evo3 SSK, 3.23 LSD, Koni/Eibach Adjustable Damper suspension, PUR RSM's & RTABs, CF Strut brace, UUC Swaybarbarians, Motorsport X-Brace, 17x8 Beyern Mesh wheels Hella CELIS projectors + 5k TRS HID's, Fog delete=Brake cooling duct, LTW wing, ///M Bumper & R. Diffuser
CCA Member #382557
Good thinking, but it still happens. First, the chain can stretch enough for changes to occur, just picture that chain in the picture being 4mm longer but the same amount of links between gears...BIG change my friend. See the guide on the right, when that has deep groves from excessive wear, also picture the affect on that cam gear when the chain goes from a slight bend, to straight. Put chain stretch and guide wear together and you have a serious issue. It doesn't take much change to noticably affect cam timing here. In your case ALL engines are poorly designed whether or not they are chain or belt driven cams because they all completely rely on a tensioner of some sort to keep the belt/chain tight. That is why these things have service intervals and the guides are replaceable. If it didn't matter BMW would not recommend service. This solution is a last resort anyway since it is a PITA but still remains a logical choice.Originally Posted by a32guy
I would have to agree that this is becoming a symptom with multiple causes for everyone. I replaced the factory chip in my DME and between my repair a few pages ago, I really can't get my car to hesitate much anymore. I did find that the hose coming out from my RX7 fuel pump was all fudged up and that helped my top end...hehe.
This thread is depressing....
well I starting digging parts out the other night and got to the ICV. I found out I originally put the camshaft position sensor plug into the ICV, and the wire from the harness that was supposed to go to the ICV was plugged into the TPS CPS plug. I did it in an hour when BMW needed 7-10 hours to figure it out. The original idle surge was from like 800-1500rpm revving. Thats completely gone now after i fixed the sensors. It's really like driving a completely different car now, or like driving the car before it got warmed up. Now it drives like it did when it was cold the whole time, it has power in the low rpm's no matter how warm it gets. But now I notice another surge at idle. This one is more like 400-800rpm and it only happens occasionally, where as the previous surge was constant once it got warmed up.. Is this the sort of surge you all are experiencing?
all i know is that anti-seize doesn't do good on the plugs.Originally Posted by LuvMy328is
I took them back out and cleaned the threads
~Phil
Madeiraviolett Bf.C club member #001
1996 BMW 328is Madeiraviolett/Dove Grey: 5 Spd, Sport, Cold Weather & Premium Sound pkgs.
3.5" ECIS/ITG intake -> Samco ASC Delete Boot -> DINAN TB -> M50 Manifold -> S52 Cams | Bav Auto Red-top ignition coils tuned w/ AA software, Dynomax Cats & Stromung exhaust UUC Pulleys & Clutch stop, FDM=Zionsville radiator, Mishimoto Tank, SAMCO hoses, Fidanza LTW flywheel & M3 clutch, UUC Evo3 SSK, 3.23 LSD, Koni/Eibach Adjustable Damper suspension, PUR RSM's & RTABs, CF Strut brace, UUC Swaybarbarians, Motorsport X-Brace, 17x8 Beyern Mesh wheels Hella CELIS projectors + 5k TRS HID's, Fog delete=Brake cooling duct, LTW wing, ///M Bumper & R. Diffuser
CCA Member #382557
So to cure your hesitation problem, you corrected the CPS and ISV plugs? Hmm I wonder if it could be the CPS after all. Would the engine run if I were to simply unplug it?Originally Posted by prophecy
it shouldnt start without it.
2.8L Club Member 219
IIRC, he also rebuilt the head...Originally Posted by a32guy
Dan
OK, fine, but here's what doesn't make sense. All of our problems are temperature dependant - they don't occur when the car is cold. I would imagine a stretched chain would be stretched all the time, and therefore the effects would be present all the time, but this is not the case, is it?Originally Posted by Silvbullit
Dan
Dan
What about when it's running in open-loop?Originally Posted by dmurray14
Also, is the crank or camshaft position sensor theory still supported by the temp-dependent part?
Mine is also after the car warms up AND I am getting a Peake code for "Vanos Mechanically Jammed"
~Phil
Madeiraviolett Bf.C club member #001
1996 BMW 328is Madeiraviolett/Dove Grey: 5 Spd, Sport, Cold Weather & Premium Sound pkgs.
3.5" ECIS/ITG intake -> Samco ASC Delete Boot -> DINAN TB -> M50 Manifold -> S52 Cams | Bav Auto Red-top ignition coils tuned w/ AA software, Dynomax Cats & Stromung exhaust UUC Pulleys & Clutch stop, FDM=Zionsville radiator, Mishimoto Tank, SAMCO hoses, Fidanza LTW flywheel & M3 clutch, UUC Evo3 SSK, 3.23 LSD, Koni/Eibach Adjustable Damper suspension, PUR RSM's & RTABs, CF Strut brace, UUC Swaybarbarians, Motorsport X-Brace, 17x8 Beyern Mesh wheels Hella CELIS projectors + 5k TRS HID's, Fog delete=Brake cooling duct, LTW wing, ///M Bumper & R. Diffuser
CCA Member #382557
Mine is officially fixed. After checking all the coils, flushing the engine oil, seafoaming the motor and changing the plugs my hesitation is completely gone. In fact my idle is so smooth that I sometimes have to look at the tach just to see if my car is still running. I think it was just neglect on my part and the spark plugs fixed the issue.
"Ruthless like the coupe"
Well, IIRC, open loop switches to closed at about 1/4 of the way through the temp gauge. This isn't necessarily when my bogging occurs. In fact, if I baby the car and drive like Puss McBuss, it will be fine well into the 12 o'clock position. As soon as I get on it, it goes to crap. This leads me to believe it has nothing to do with open/closed loop, but I can't be certain.Originally Posted by Spood
Dan
Dan
The engine runs without it plugged in. mine was plugged into the ICV originally, which is essentially not plugged in, then it was unplugged at BMW. I only had the CEL for the ICV issue. Also, my 400-800rpm idle is not temperature dependent. it happens occasionally at any temperature. After a few surges it seems to flatten out at about 600-700rpm ishOriginally Posted by a32guy
i didnt rebuild the head i dont think? just replaced the head gasket and had a valve job done and cleaned the muck out while i was at it.. the hesitation problem didnt exist before starting this job, only after i put it back together and crossed the CPS/ICV wires. once those were fixed, the hesitation went away, as mentioned before, as far as the lack of power at low rpm, all seems to be back to normal.. probably since the CPS is plugged into the right spot now..Originally Posted by dmurray14
another thing, i can hear the loud kind of metal on metal rattling sound when i have the hood open. its coming from the front of the valve cover at the vanos unit. it sounds like the chain is hitting the top of the cover. not sure how this could be happening?
Last edited by prophecy; 03-27-2006 at 09:37 AM.
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