Update: I tried pinching the return line. It did NOT fix the hesitation/bogging issue, but it did seem to make the car a LITTLE bit stronger in the high ranges. Don't think it's the problem, though...
Dan
Dan
wow pls find out i hope this is my problemOriginally Posted by kinghawk
Ive found two different technical bulletins. One for Vanos and one for Non-Vanos engines. Cant find out if I can copy and paste from Alldata but the bulletin for Vanos engines is #12 07 94 (4116).
SUBJECT:
Programming Data Update for M50 Engines
Models: E34, E36 with M50 Engines produced from 9/92- 8/94
Engine will start primarily during cold weather (32 degrees or lower) or at high altitudes, in conjunction with the following symptoms.
Symptoms: Long cranking time, engine will not start
Engine starts but runs rough, black smoke coming from exhaust
Spark plugs are "wet"
Check Engine light is illumintated in conjunction with:
-Fault code 13 - Oxygen Sensor failure
I just want to post something else about pinching the return line. Guys, don't do it. After unclamping mine and going for a drive, my car ran like shit. It accelerated in first like it would in fifth, slowww. It got better as I drove around the neighborhood for a little bit (wasn't chancing it on the road) and is now a lot better, but still hasn't completely recovered, though I think it will. Don't know what happened there.
I'll tell you though, I was out doing some work for about 3 hours, and when I got back to my car, completely cold, and drove it....man. Just amazes me how much power the car actually has and how much I'm usually getting out of it. The car accelerates like a bat out of hell when it's cold, obviously like crap when warm. Let's get this fixed, guys!
Dan
Dan
ok is there any reason why the cars dont run shitty when you're in gear at 1k-2k rpm? if its got a surging idle between 1-2k why would it not have the same surging while in gear? alot of the times i'll press the gas so i dont have to listen to it. It will still bounce the idle up and down until i get up to around 2300-2500rpm and i have to hold it there or else it bounces back down to under 1k again.
i guess there is some signal the transmission sends to the motor to tell it the car is in gear and not to run like an idiot? (except when it gets to 3k rpm and starts kicking and bogging)
Load.Originally Posted by prophecy
And my bogging is from idle up to like 3500 rpm sometimes 4000.
Yeah, I agree I have no idle fluctuation only fluctuation with my MPG and the surge...I had an idle fluctuation in my e30-unplugged the Throttle Position Switch and now runs wayyyyy better then my e36...kinda sad but I have been driving my ole e30 318i due to this issue.
[connery]The day is mine!![/connery]Originally Posted by tomt30273
Sorry...just had to say that.
I come home every day, hoping someone has managed to find out something new. I wish I had a garage (or that it was warmer) so I could productively contribute to this thread, but it's...unpleasant...to try and work on your car in the driveway when it's like 15 degrees out. Stupid northern state.
That said, I wanted to express my sincere appreciation to everyone working towards a solution here. You guys are awesome.
i agree with spood. i think this is one of the best BMW communities out there. and like Dan said, lets keep cracking at this problem and get it fixed!!!
-Justin
p.s. dan, you better hold to your word about that party when this is all over. lol
86 325e - motor from 525e with 51,000 miles, bored intake manifold, bored throttle body housing, high flow 4 pintle fuel injectors, super eta head, 3.2 psi electric supercharger and high flow filter and maf, bosal brospeed 3" exhaust, brembo drilled/slotted rotors with pbr axxis pads, angel eyes, konig imagine rims wrapped with dayton daytona s/r sneakers, 2x 15" JL audio subs with american bass cross and amp with clarion proauio head.
94 325is - stock for now
When this problem is fixed -- massive amounts of beer will be dranken.
a32guy: And my bogging is from idle up to like 3500 rpm sometimes 4000.
Thats what mines like runs sweet after 4000 Rpm goes like a train but its slow as hell before that.
Originally Posted by a32guy
Dan
k i think there is a problem that we need to clear up i dont know if its just me, but i see there are 2 different problems.
1. the person that idles fine but when drives he hesitates. seems not to be problem when cold
2. the person that idles like crap and hesistates a little. cold problem?
I agree and would also add:
3. Person that has misfire problems (see Dan's video) and hesitation...
I think that the idle problems are an additional problem on top of the hesitation problem. Most likely bad ISV, or vacuum leak.
I forgot to add, the previous owner replaced the fuel pump himself, and he didn't seem too mechanically inclined. Also on a side note, once in a while I will get a somewhat strong odor of gasoline inside the car. Maybe I should double check his work...
What we really need is two buddys with 325's. One with the hesitation problem, one without. Swap out sensor by sensor and even DME and see what fixes it. This guessing game buisness isn't cool
I did that.. Was thinking about swaping out the O2 sensor.. But I proabably will drop an S50 in there soon.. so I am not too worried about it.Originally Posted by a32guy
haha i love the sig zeit..
my buddy has a 94 318, im going to see if i can borrow his car for a little bit..
Yea.. The reason I have tint is so nobody can see the six dead hookers in the car.Originally Posted by prophecy
ahahha thats hilariousOriginally Posted by zeit00
Sorry, an error on my prior post. I got the exhaust pressure tester at bmpdesigns.com. Its $29.95.
This is awesome didnt know what my cars problem was until reading this. I had cracks in my intake tube. Awesome thread guys ive learned quite a bit about stalling/hesitation problems bmw tend to have. Keep it up!!!!!!!
M42 Club Member # 102
I am going to go home tonight, put the wheels back on, and get it off of the jackstands. Will probably take it for a spin this weekend after I charge the batt. So I'll let you guys with the cat theory know if it helps the issue by removing them. Keep in mind that I replaced the Guibo and TM's at the same time though (which could help the issue, due to flexing in the high torque areas).I have had my car up on jacks for a couple months replacing various things. To combat this issue I just did a cat & resonator delete then welded in some high flow resonators (to quiet it down). I have not fired it up and/or drove it yet so I am not sure if it will help. I am going to drive it a bit then move on to replacing the o2. I am pretty convinced it has to do with cats o2's but it is just a hunch.
I have already replaced the spark plugs which didn't do a da*n thing and valve cover gaskets would not be the issue unless oil was up to the connection (I do need one but autozone wants about 3 times more $$ than BFC vendors, so I need to wait for my next parts order).
If my emissions theory does not cure the problem then I am heading straight for a compression test (which I will do anyway). If the compression is low then it is time for a S50.
If none of the above fix it then I am going to a bimmer mechanic because I am tired of dumping money into guesses.
I've replaced the guibo and TM too...didn't make any difference in the hesitation, though it did make shiting a bit smoother...Originally Posted by BMDub325is
Anxiously awating your results...
Dan
Dan
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