OK guys, over the past week I am amazed at the amount of people that have been having the same issue I've been experiencing - horrible bogging / hesitation. This is being presented in the form of hesitation that occurs when beginning to accelerate from idle up to about 2.5-3k where you then feel a boost of power and experience normal acceleration. For me, it's not only embarrasing losing launches against cars I know I should beat, but it's a safety hazard - sometimes I feel like the car can't even get out of its own way until after the 3k hurdle mentioned above. I know there are many of you out there with this SAME EXACT problem, and so far I haven't seen any solutions. So hopefully we can use this thread to gather information and figure out going on. Please share your symptoms, what you have tried, and anything you have noticied that is relevant.
My car is a 1993 325is.
Here is what I have tried:
Replace Spark Plugs - Seemed to help for a day or so, but then quickly lost hope. Same problem continued.
Clean MAF sensor - No improvement at all
Check Intake tubing for cracks - No cracks or leaks
Things I've noticied:
- Need a new valve cover gasket, little bit of oil in spark plug holes
- Still have original Bosch ignition coils
- Coil boots are worn, white powder on the end of boot (spark plug side)
- Have notorious VANOS rattle, can be heard in engine bay while revving engine.
- NO check engine light or codes
Please, share what you can so we can all get a better idea what's going on. I want my acceleration back!
Dan
Dan
i think there have been 2 or 3 successful endings to this problem on the forums. mine being one of them. my problem was a combo of the crank sensor and a bad cat. the car was making the o2 sensor go crazy which ruining the cranksensor. replaced both about 2-3 times before i figured it out.
its def an electrical issue.
gluck
mike
I'd say your vanos is stuck in high advance mode and needs to be fixed.
My car used to do this, then all of a sudden stopped it, I have no Idea why but it's never happened again and I'm happy LOL.
dmurray14: I am experiencing the same exact thing you are but occasionally the car will seem to run fine. I have a valve cover leak and I am pretty sure I still have the original ignition coils and boots and my vanos can get pretty loud. I would really like to find the source of the problem. My hope is that it is the valve cover...
Any idea how to test whether this is the case? Would disconnecting the solenoid show it? How DO you disconnect the solenoid?Originally Posted by ///M3GTR
Dan
Dan
I'm having the exact same problem myself. I thought it could be some sort of injector issue or something in the fuel system by the way it was acting. So I went and put a bottle of Gumout fuel system cleaner and 91 octane gas through 2 tanks and it seems to help. But this week acts like it knocked something loose and maybe clogged the injector, filter, or something. It's been acting like it will die when I start it... sounds very bad... slow idle until it picks itself up, or dies (which it has done twice the last week). I've got spark plugs and fuel filter ready, but waiting on my $19 shipped Brand New Bentley from eBay so I know what the hell I'm doing since this is my first one. I'm really hoping I didn't break something loose into the injectors or mess something else up.
i've also noticed that when pulling up to a light and not downshifting, just using neutral+brakes the idle wanders between 500-700 but as soon as i stop it idles stong at around 700.
Mine's still doing it- I have it narrowed down to either the coils or the VANOS I think. Anyone solve their hesitation yet?
Dan
I have the same issue. Might be the coils, but I've only got 68K on my car. I'll be interested to see what this is. I recently had the fuel filter done, so that's not it for me.
Formerly 328i, now 332i : Debadged, Cosmos Black/Black, '99 s52 motor, custom short ram intake with ITG maxogen filter, Dinan springs, Koni adj sports, Rogue Engineering LTW flywheel clutch kit, UUC swaybarbarians, HMS oil pump, Fan Delete mod, Mishimoto alum radiator, UUC UD pullies, upgraded water pump, BBS RK2's w 235-40-17 Yoko S-drives for summer, the Shaahhhk, passport x50, Scorpion cat back exhaust, BSW midrange speakers, Recaro knock-off child safety seats by graco...
Have you checked your battery cables?(especially the ground), its amazing to see how the car will go haywire when the connections are not making 100% contact.
I have the same problem....Fuel filter has been changed, ICV has been cleaned...but nothing has changed. It was bad for about a week and then it quit for a month or so, but now it is back... I also notice that when I'm in cruise control on the highway that my "mpg" needle swings back and forth from 25-20. It seems that the car isn't getting enough fuel and then it hesitates. Has anyone replaced a fuel pump? I think that is my next move
I have this problem too and I've replaced plugs twice (tried Iridiums and stock) and the fuel filter. I also tested all of my coils and they're within resistance tolerance. I'm going to replace my fuel filter and other shit next summer :/
personally, i dont think this is really a PROBLEM, more of a fault, i mean my friend jon has a wrx and those things have the weirdest boost/fuel maps stock, it pulls to 5, hesitates, then pulls hard to 7...i think the solution to this problem is a TMS/Conforti/Dinan..w/e chip to give more aggressive maps...i mean isnt it worth the $3.40/gal lol.
I have a TMS chip and it still has some "hesitation".Originally Posted by bennyfizzle
u suck. lol j/p.
i also have the bonneville motorwerks conforti chip, cosmos cai, turner lightweight flywheel, etc and my take off isnt too good. my car seems to lack power below 2500-3000 rpm's. ill be starting with all the cheap fixes. i question a bad coil right now, because of such poor fuel mileage and a rich smelling/ sooty exhaust. i can also smell hints of fuel on occasion. keep this thread going..
i was having the same problems and i went to a shop and they said it was the crank sensor...fortunately there was an open recall for the crank sensor on my car and i went and got it done and it fixed the problem.
I had the same problem, i think, turns out it was a vacum hose that was basicly missing.
really? Did they take care of everything - were there any expenses out of pocket?Originally Posted by forumjp59
Thanks,
Dan
Dan
Which hose?Originally Posted by camiloteram
Dan
Same problem here. So far I've replaced:
plugs
coils
injectors
fuel pump
fuel filter
valve cover gasket
cam sensor
crank sensor
mass air flow sensor
I also found a couple of cracks in the intake tubing, and fixed them. I think my next plan of attack is to change out the throttle position switch.
-Bungy.
1999 323ti
2005 530i 6-speed
2020 X5
2013 Mini Cooper S
That pretty much described my problems. I think I need a new head gasket also.Originally Posted by dmurray14
I feel the EXACT same way!Originally Posted by dmurray14
Dan, I've also:
*Replaced the spark plugs
*cleaned the MAF
*checked the intake tubing for cracks
*unplugged the signal to the vanos solenoid - not better at all, just threw a code
*swapped out the coils to Plasma Direct coils - no better
*swapped DME for a spare a friend had - made car run terribly (misfired), had to have been wrong part # (no sticker on it)
*tested TPS - worked fine
*adjusted throttle stop - was off, but no quicker
*switched from synthetic oil to conventional 20w-50 in hopes it would provide more oil psi to kick in the vanos - no luck
*compressions tested - good in all cylinders
I just bought the banjo tool to test the vanos. It is supposed to arrive next week. I should have time next weekend to test it as described in the bentley.
Sigh I've really lost interest in this car already and I've only had it for about a month. But on the bright side it makes driving the turbocharged e30 a blast!
-Chris
Last edited by a32guy; 09-22-2005 at 09:05 PM.
Today my car was feeling sluggish until I drove it again tonight and it was back to normal. It doesn't make sense....
Hey guys,
My car has simular symptoms but is fine from cold, everything is normal, but
once it starts to heat up just a bit (watching the guage), the car goes into
what I believe everyone calls limp mode. You had to put your foot to the
floor for it to move and the revs will climb slowly. I don't know how long
before it resets itself but if i leave it overnight, it will run fine in the morning
for that brief moment but thats about it. I don't have a scanner/reader so I
can't pull out any codes atm. Its an auto and doesn't pull any CEL's.
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