Page 3 of 5 FirstFirst 12345 LastLast
Results 51 to 75 of 107

Thread: Window Regulator And Motor Replacement DIY.

  1. #51
    Join Date
    Jul 2006
    Location
    toronto
    Posts
    120
    My Cars
    1993 320i bmw
    I bet it took a lot of time writing that, it will save us quite some headaches when it happens. Thank's man.

  2. #52
    Join Date
    Nov 2004
    Location
    Dallas, TX
    Posts
    22
    My Cars
    1999 M3
    Thank you for this write-up. It helped me a ton last night. I will add one thing, my motor was frozen so it was really hard to move the window from the top position, so here is how I did it. I took the metal housing off the back of the motor (4 torx screws) after I unplugged the two plugs. Then I was able to get my hands on the internals of the motor and turn it. It took a ton of turns but I was finally able to roll the window down that way and follow your procedure.

    One thing to note, I did reuse my motor (not a good idea I know and I will probably be doing it again), and when I put it back together it would work in the opposite direction (down went up and up went down). I thought I was going crazy and so I unscrewed the metal motor housing and flipped it 180 degrees and bam back in business!

    I regreased everything and had 2 plastic clips laying around and when I replaced them everything seemed to work fine.

    Jeff

  3. #53
    Join Date
    Sep 2003
    Location
    Lexington | Beijing
    Posts
    120
    My Cars
    89 3.1L Dbilas
    Any chance someone has the p/n for the window stops? I replaced a regulator, and sliders but can't seem to get the window to go up perfectly straight. There were no window stops in the rails per the OP's writeup so I assume they have been missing for some time now.

    Thanks!

  4. #54
    Join Date
    May 2004
    Location
    Florida Panhandle/ Ohio
    Posts
    7,318
    My Cars
    14 JGC/13 E88 128i
    A trip to bmwfans.com or realoem.com will get you those p/ns you seek.
    I would guess when someone replaced the motor or regulator they pitched those...

  5. #55
    Join Date
    Sep 2003
    Location
    Lexington | Beijing
    Posts
    120
    My Cars
    89 3.1L Dbilas
    cheers fun2drive, but i've already checked the ETK and it's not shown

  6. #56
    Join Date
    Feb 2006
    Location
    Bay Area, CA
    Posts
    31
    My Cars
    94 325 is!
    Quote Originally Posted by tdrommond@hudib View Post
    Stop, Don't use a Dremel Tool to take out the rivets. Here's the right method. This is how you remote rivets from an aircraft and insure you have round holes, not figure eights...or a hacked up panel. I don't care how careful you are, that Dremel is easy to make a mess with.

    As above, take off the door cover and raise the window fully. Taking a small drift punch (1/8 Dia. Max) or a finish nail setting punch, drive the steel center pin out of the rivet. One sharp rap is all it takes. These are serated locking pins, made from tool steel and designed to mechanically lock the rivet. You are not going to drill them out. The rivet is soft aluminium. The bit will wander off into the softer material and through the sheetmetal panel, leaving a figure eight or oblong hole.

    Now that the centers are out, you have a perfect guide hole to drill the head of the rivet off. Using a 1/4 bit, high speed and light pressure, drill only to the depth of the head of the rivet. We are not trying to drill out the shank or butt. We don't want to re-drill the hole. Too much pressure will spin the rivet in the hole. Lean the drill slightly left or right and the rivet will catch an edge and stop. Now, very, very light pressure.

    With a little side load on the drill, the head usually pops off clean at the surface. Or, using a chisel, strike the crown of the rivet, not between the rivet and the panel. The head will pop off.

    Taking 3/16 drift pin, knock out the shank of the rivet. The hole is still pristine and round. Your drill never touched the panel.

    This takes nearly twice as long to type as it does to do.

    Hope that helps.

    Good Luck!!
    Has anyone had any luck with this procedure??

    I hammered the rivets pretty hard, but none of them gave one bit. I assume we have to hammer the rivets *into* the door panel. I'm getting to the point that I'm worried about breaking something...

  7. #57
    Join Date
    Dec 2004
    Location
    Milwaukee, WI
    Posts
    1,333
    My Cars
    '01 525i, 93 MX-5 autox
    Thanks for the DIY, just got done in under 4 hrs.... had a hard time finding stainless at my local hardware store.....

    Wasn't too bad!
    Quote Originally Posted by brengaz View Post
    Has anyone had any luck with this procedure??

    I hammered the rivets pretty hard, but none of them gave one bit. I assume we have to hammer the rivets *into* the door panel. I'm getting to the point that I'm worried about breaking something...
    This is how I did mine, you need to drill to the depth of the head of the rivet, then take a center punch or nail or something and stick it in there and start hammering away, the back end will fall into the door, and the punch or nail will have a new ring on it.
    KEVIN
    BMW CCA # 416146

    Current 2001 525i-5 / 225,000 Miles
    ///M Weighted Shift knob.
    CD43 with AUX retrofit + Bluebus
    Auto Dimming Mirror upgrade
    H&R Sport / Koni STR.T
    OEM Xenon HID Retrofit


    The Ex- 2000 540i-6 / 82,xxx miles to 186,xxx miles
    CDV Free, 545i Shifter and ///M Weighted Shift knob.
    Member of DSC Module Failure Club $$

  8. #58
    Join Date
    Aug 2010
    Location
    mayfield,ky
    Posts
    2
    My Cars
    1997 bmw 328i
    does any body know were to get window stops

  9. #59
    Join Date
    Aug 2010
    Location
    mayfield,ky
    Posts
    2
    My Cars
    1997 bmw 328i
    i need window stops for the rails does any body know were to get them. thanks

  10. #60
    Join Date
    Feb 2006
    Location
    Bay Area, CA
    Posts
    31
    My Cars
    94 325 is!
    Quote Originally Posted by Camarok View Post
    Thanks for the DIY, just got done in under 4 hrs.... had a hard time finding stainless at my local hardware store.....

    Wasn't too bad!


    This is how I did mine, you need to drill to the depth of the head of the rivet, then take a center punch or nail or something and stick it in there and start hammering away, the back end will fall into the door, and the punch or nail will have a new ring on it.
    I succeeded as well. After buying a better punch at the local HW store, the rivets came off pretty easily. On to the passenger door now!

  11. #61
    Join Date
    Jul 2009
    Location
    DE
    Posts
    1,739
    My Cars
    e46
    wats the part number for the hex head screws??
    sorry if it was posted already not sure

  12. #62
    Join Date
    Oct 2009
    Location
    Florida USA
    Posts
    1,954
    My Cars
    X3,528i,
    good write up..i am in the middle of replacing the window motor..i had already taken regulator and old motor apart..and i am waiting for the new window motor to arrive tomorrow so i can put everything back together...
    2000 BMW 528i / Manual Tranny / Sport & Premium package / Xenon headlight / Sport seats / Premium sound / DSC /
    2011 BMW X3

  13. #63
    Join Date
    Mar 2010
    Location
    Australia
    Posts
    16
    My Cars
    1994 BMW 320i Sedan
    ^^^ Good luck man, hope you have a reliable beer vendor. I did this last week, grease all over my hands from lubing the rails, battling with a stubborn driver's side window, trying to align everything then hold it all together with one hand as I tried gingerly to insert the shitty nylon scissor guides with the other. Not a job I want to repeat in the near future. Not complex, just frustrating.

  14. #64
    Join Date
    Jul 2009
    Location
    DE
    Posts
    1,739
    My Cars
    e46
    i have to replace my regulator
    do i need the sliders? and hex bolts right

  15. #65
    Join Date
    Oct 2008
    Location
    Coos Bay Oregon
    Posts
    519
    My Cars
    09/95' 325ic
    Anyone have issues finding rivets short and fat enough to hold the regulator in-place tightly? I removed the regulator and motor a few months back and used bolts, nuts and locking washers (terrible idea). I then removed it again a couple months back and couldn't find any fat rivets which weren't too long and I ended up using wide washers with a small hole(smaller then the holes in the door and regulator) behind the door and regulator to help sandwich everything in-place. It actually worked very well but if there are actually rivets which work - I would really appreciate the specs!

  16. #66
    Join Date
    Jan 2007
    Location
    Cape Girardeau, MO
    Posts
    289
    My Cars
    97 540i/6, 98 Estoril M3 Coupe, 96 328is

    This is the way to do it!

    [QUOTE=tdrommond@hudib;7626799]Stop, Don't use a Dremel Tool to take out the rivets. Here's the right method. This is how you remote rivets from an aircraft and insure you have round holes, not figure eights...or a hacked up panel. I don't care how careful you are, that Dremel is easy to make a mess with.

    As above, take off the door cover and raise the window fully. Taking a small drift punch (1/8 Dia. Max) or a finish nail setting punch, drive the steel center pin out of the rivet. One sharp rap is all it takes. These are serated locking pins, made from tool steel and designed to mechanically lock the rivet. You are not going to drill them out. The rivet is soft aluminium. The bit will wander off into the softer material and through the sheetmetal panel, leaving a figure eight or oblong hole.

    Now that the centers are out, you have a perfect guide hole to drill the head of the rivet off. Using a 1/4 bit, high speed and light pressure, drill only to the depth of the head of the rivet. We are not trying to drill out the shank or butt. We don't want to re-drill the hole. Too much pressure will spin the rivet in the hole. Lean the drill slightly left or right and the rivet will catch an edge and stop. Now, very, very light pressure.

    With a little side load on the drill, the head usually pops off clean at the surface. Or, using a chisel, strike the crown of the rivet, not between the rivet and the panel. The head will pop off.

    Taking 3/16 drift pin, knock out the shank of the rivet. The hole is still pristine and round. Your drill never touched the panel.

    This takes nearly twice as long to type as it does to do.

    Hope that helps.

    I finished mine today in about an hour and a half. The hardest part for me was getting all the parts clean. I used black oxide coated half-inch long 1/4 DIA button head cap screws (BHCS), cad-plated lock washers and nuts to secure the regulator and a 5/16 DIA BHCS, lock washer and nut to secure the cross brace, removing the tinnerman clip nut and the head of the fastener on the outside of the panel. There were no interferance problems and it looks like it could have come that way. It made setting the front edge of the window square much easier.

    Good Luck!![/QUOTE

    Drilling out the rivets was super easy. Even after some of them started spinning, some side torque or a screw driver against the edge of the rivet worked. Simplest part of the job.

  17. #67
    Join Date
    Jul 2011
    Location
    brighton uk
    Posts
    5
    My Cars
    1994 316i
    heya

    thanks for the write up i found it quite useful.. just a quick question on the topic. My window doesnt slide all the way up like its supposed to.. Its on the rails as it should be but as you wind it up it slides out a few mm and sticks out the passenger door a little... any ideas as to why this would be? Any help would be much appreciated..

    thanks.
    Venom.

  18. #68
    Join Date
    Dec 2004
    Location
    Milwaukee, WI
    Posts
    1,333
    My Cars
    '01 525i, 93 MX-5 autox
    Quote Originally Posted by venome36 View Post
    heya

    thanks for the write up i found it quite useful.. just a quick question on the topic. My window doesnt slide all the way up like its supposed to.. Its on the rails as it should be but as you wind it up it slides out a few mm and sticks out the passenger door a little... any ideas as to why this would be? Any help would be much appreciated..

    thanks.
    Venom.

    I had the same problem for a bit after putting mine on. I played a bit with the closed door switch with the window up and down, stopped and in motion and eventually it figured it out. I think you need to roll the window up with the door closed.... or have it think it's closed and put your finger in the switch where the latch is, then when it's up, open the door it should move down a bit.

    Im pretty sure it goes like this.... door closed, roll window all the way down, then all the way up. Open the door and it should slide down a bit
    Last edited by Camarok; 08-04-2011 at 02:32 PM. Reason: Automerged Doublepost
    KEVIN
    BMW CCA # 416146

    Current 2001 525i-5 / 225,000 Miles
    ///M Weighted Shift knob.
    CD43 with AUX retrofit + Bluebus
    Auto Dimming Mirror upgrade
    H&R Sport / Koni STR.T
    OEM Xenon HID Retrofit


    The Ex- 2000 540i-6 / 82,xxx miles to 186,xxx miles
    CDV Free, 545i Shifter and ///M Weighted Shift knob.
    Member of DSC Module Failure Club $$

  19. #69
    Join Date
    Jul 2002
    Location
    Vancouver, BC, Canada
    Posts
    151
    My Cars
    2020 M2C DCT
    To the OP, if you're still around, thanks for going the trouble of writing this up. It saved me a bunch of time. I have a few comments:

    First, you don't need to use a dremel. I drilled out all of the rivets with a 1/4 inch bit. It only took a few minutes. A couple of the heads started to spin so I held them with pliers. You don't even need to punch out the pin.

    Second, you can get bolts and nuts to replace the rivets at the dealer. Here are the part numbers:

    23 Hex bolt with washer M6X10-Z1 07119915041 $0.25
    22 SELF-LOCKING HEX NUT M6 51417053138 $0.38

    Here is the page on realoem.com where I got the part numbers:

    http://www.realoem.com/bmw/showparts...55&hg=51&fg=10

    I made the mistake of trying to do the job without having replacement nylon sliders on hand. One of them broke when I was trying to get it off so now I have to get the parts before I can finish. Oh well.
    2020 M2C DCT Hockenheim Silver Metallic

  20. #70
    Join Date
    Jul 2010
    Location
    Long Pond, Pa., USA
    Posts
    25
    My Cars
    92BMW325IS99BMW323IC
    What book did use to get the info on reseting the windows?

  21. #71
    Join Date
    Jul 2002
    Location
    Vancouver, BC, Canada
    Posts
    151
    My Cars
    2020 M2C DCT
    Quote Originally Posted by josebaez1 View Post
    What book did use to get the info on reseting the windows?
    No book. Close door. Lower window, holding switch down for 6(?) seconds. Then raise window, holding switch down for 6(?) seconds. After that, everything worked fine. The instant I pull the door handle, the window drops like it should. When I close the door, the window tightens against the seal.
    2020 M2C DCT Hockenheim Silver Metallic

  22. #72
    Join Date
    Aug 2011
    Location
    India
    Posts
    1
    My Cars
    clubtitan org

    Teori prøve | Teoriundervisning

    Turteori.dk - din genvej til kørekort til personbil, fornyelse af kørekort, Gratis teoriprøve, kørekort teori, teoritest, generhvervelse af kørekort, kørekort til motorcykel, truckcertifikat, kørekort til lastbil, kørekort til bus, kørekort til vogntog


    __________________________________________________ _____
    Køreskole, Kørekort , Teoriprøve, Motorcykelkørekort

  23. #73
    Join Date
    Aug 2009
    Location
    2 up 2 down
    Posts
    32
    My Cars
    1994 325i
    Although I realize it may have already been said.. I don't feel like checking if it has. I found that a hammer and nail set/punch knocked the rivets out pretty easy. The center of the rivet is like a nail and you can drive it in and the rivet just comes out. I figured this would help the people without a dremel.. or simply make it easier. I drilled out/ dremeled one rivet before I realized this and it was much easier for me.
    BLAZE L'S

  24. #74
    Join Date
    Nov 2008
    Location
    sofla
    Posts
    462
    My Cars
    '94 325ic
    Some tips. For those of you with the window stuck down --remove the motor cover (4 torx) and turn the armature -- this will allow you to lower or raise the window as the armature is connected to the mechanism and spinning it will raise or lower the window. As for alignment -- take a sharp instrument and mark the position of the guides on the bottom of the door before removing them. after reassembly just put them back where they were.
    Not everything that counts can be counted, and not everything that can be counted counts.

  25. #75
    Join Date
    Nov 2009
    Location
    chicago, il
    Posts
    8
    My Cars
    1993 740I

    Window regulator

    I just installed the front driver side window regulator on my 1993 740I, the end of the arm with the ball is about 1.1/2 inches away from the slider, I have to push the arm hard to insert it in to the slider and hold it in while I push in the clip over the slider, the problem I'm having is that when the window reaches half way up the arm pops out from the slider, if anyone has any input it will be apreciated.
    Can I bend the arm so that it touches the slider without pushing it or that is a no no.
    Thank you in advance
    Wauconda

Page 3 of 5 FirstFirst 12345 LastLast

Bookmarks

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •