E36M3 STR build

[fizzx]

STR build time!

Now that the ole e36m3 has moved from STU to STR I need to step up my game a bit. Locally, nobody else 'fast' ran in STU so I left my beaterM3 very underprepped for STU (closer to stock) and just ran to see how I'd do raw and pax. Think I was always in top 10 raw, 1 FTD, and always top or near on PAX. The closest fast guys on street rubber were usually in STR (S2000 and Miata). It was always a fun tight battle. Now that we're all in the same group, I'd like to up my game as I'm sure they will be doing too :-)
Another reason for leaving the car underprepped was to prove to the younger dudes that autox is truly more about the driver than the car. I think they finally understood this by the end of the season. Seat time > car mods! After 20yrs autoxing I've learned a few things ;-)

No, I'm not going to Nats. Yes, I would like to finally get out to some bigger match/pro/etc events with a car that's well prepped for STR. Yes, the S2000 is likely going to dominate, but I'm also the autox chair for our BMW club so I'm going to stick with my e36m vs buy an S2000 :-)

I may be purchasing a rust free non-modified '98 e36m sedan soon, so I created the below list for both an STR build along with basic e36 items that would likely need replacing or looked over. I currently have 2 e36m's ... a 97 sedan with a pulled motor that's been collecting dust for 3yrs (HG blew) ... a 99 coupe that's a rust bucket and known locally as the beaterm3.

Please look over this list and point out stuff I might be missing or should consider or suggestions about a particular item (ie "dude, the afe intake is lame, you really should consider getting X"). 2016 was my first season back with the SCCA since 2001 (been doing stuff mainly with marque clubs since then) and again I didn't prep the car even remotely to STU so this is my 1st attempt to actually build a car towards a rule set with SCCA. I looked over the draft 2017 rules, but I'm sure I'm likely missing something.

engine >>>
intake (have AFe CAI on broken sedan)
pulleys (have TMS kit on broken sedan)
tune (epic?)
*EDIT - not legal* Clutch fan delete legal?
*EDIT - not legal* dual fuel pickup kit legal?
injector cleaning
vanos rebuild
spark plugs

exhaust >>>
header - shorty or long tube?
midpipe
hi-flow cat
lightweight 3” exhaust

suspension >>>
AST 4100’s (have on broken sedan, but need rebuilt or replaced with MCS or such)
springs (have 600F/750R on broken sedan … go bigger?)
vorshlag camber plates (have on broken sedan)
camber shims (have)
*EDIT - treehouse/bw not legal, but offset bushings in stock carrier are* offset front control arm bushings/brackets (have both treehouse and bimmerworld's)
larger front sway (have H&R)
larger rear sway (have H&R)
adjustable end links F (have, but are pretty trashed)
adjustable end links R
strut brace (mason?)
RTAB (OEM+limiters or poly?)
zero steering rack prior to alignment (turner makes a tool)
Alignment
Corner balancing
tie rods
adjustable bump steer tie rods (guessing not legal?)
front control arms if bushings trashed (aluminum arms legal?)
RSM’s (have 2 sets)
rear subframe refresh w/ poly
adjustable rear lower control arms

driveline >>>
diff bushings (poly)
trans bushings (poly)
motor mounts (poly)
guibo
center bearing

other >>>
Shift linkage refresh
SSK (have NIB)
lightweight battery
lightweight seats (have corbeau CR1s in coupe)
harness (have 4pt schroth)
lightweight wheels 17x9 (have SSR Type-F 16.8 lbs/ea on coupe)
RE71R 255/40-17 (need new as last season's are dead)
spacers front (have 15 & 18mm)
fender rolling
fluids - oil, diff, trans, coolant

Thanks! I'll edit this list with your input.

[matthugie]

STR build time!

Now that the ole e36m3 has moved from STU to STR I need to step up my game a bit. Locally, nobody else 'fast' ran in STU so I left my beaterM3 very underprepped for STU (closer to stock) and just ran to see how I'd do raw and pax. Think I was always in top 10 raw, 1 FTD, and always top or near on PAX. The closest fast guys on street rubber were usually in STR (S2000 and Miata). It was always a fun tight battle. Now that we're all in the same group, I'd like to up my game as I'm sure they will be doing too :-)
Another reason for leaving the car underprepped was to prove to the younger dudes that autox is truly more about the driver than the car. I think they finally understood this by the end of the season. Seat time > car mods! After 20yrs autoxing I've learned a few things ;-)

No, I'm not going to Nats. Yes, I would like to finally get out to some bigger match/pro/etc events with a car that's well prepped for STR. Yes, the S2000 is likely going to dominate, but I'm also the autox chair for our BMW club so I'm going to stick with my e36m vs buy an S2000 :-)

I may be purchasing a rust free non-modified '98 e36m sedan soon, so I created the below list for both an STR build along with basic e36 items that would likely need replacing or looked over. I currently have 2 e36m's ... a 97 sedan with a pulled motor that's been collecting dust for 3yrs (HG blew) ... a 99 coupe that's a rust bucket and known locally as the beaterm3.

Please look over this list and point out stuff I might be missing or should consider or suggestions about a particular item (ie "dude, the afe intake is lame, you really should consider getting X"). 2016 was my first season back with the SCCA since 2001 (been doing stuff mainly with marque clubs since then) and again I didn't prep the car even remotely to STU so this is my 1st attempt to actually build a car towards a rule set with SCCA. I looked over the draft 2017 rules, but I'm sure I'm likely missing something.

engine >>>
intake (have AFe CAI on broken sedan) Should be fine
pulleys (have TMS kit on broken sedan) Sure, but won't net much
tune (epic?) or TRM, I was very happy with what they did for my S52 E30
*EDIT - not legal* Clutch fan delete legal? Definitely not legal
*EDIT - not legal* dual fuel pickup kit legal? Definitely not legal
injector cleaning Yep
vanos rebuild Yep
spark plugs Yep

exhaust >>> I prefer long tubes to be able to have a V-band between headers and exhaust, and the exhaust as a single pipe. This allows the full exhaust to easily be removed for maintenance, etc. As expensive as the OTS options are you can probably find someone decent to do a custom exhaust for the same or less
header - shorty or long tube?
midpipe
hi-flow cat
lightweight 3” exhaust

suspension >>>
AST 4100’s (have on broken sedan, but need rebuilt or replaced with MCS or such) I want to say AST is no longer in business so rebuilds may be an issue. I went with MCS doubles and they're fantastic
springs (have 600F/750R on broken sedan … go bigger?) You probably don't need to go bigger. I'm at 600F/700R and I don't think I'd go any higher on street tires
vorshlag camber plates (have on broken sedan)
camber shims (have)
*EDIT - treehouse/bw not legal, but offset bushings in stock carrier are* offset front control arm bushings/brackets (have both treehouse and bimmerworld's)
larger front sway (have H&R) Use it
larger rear sway (have H&R) Don't use it. You'll likely run either the stock rear bar or no bar at all. With your spring rates no bar might work best. A big rear bar works well on track but leads to terminal understeer in autox (I tried all 3, stock bar worked best for my car/driving style)
adjustable end links F (have, but are pretty trashed) needed
adjustable end links R probably not needed
strut brace (mason?) or Rogue
RTAB (OEM+limiters or poly?) I went Poly, but it may depend more on how much street driving you do
zero steering rack prior to alignment (turner makes a tool)
Alignment
Corner balancing
tie rods
adjustable bump steer tie rods (guessing not legal?) not legal
front control arms if bushings trashed (aluminum arms legal?) I don't know off hand whether they are legal, but IMO they aren't worth it
RSM’s (have 2 sets)
rear subframe refresh w/ poly Yep
adjustable rear lower control arms Yep

driveline >>> Yes to all of it
diff bushings (poly)
trans bushings (poly)
motor mounts (poly)
guibo
center bearing

other >>> Yes to all of this as well, just be sure your seats/brackets weigh 25lbs.
Shift linkage refresh
SSK (have NIB)
lightweight battery
lightweight seats (have corbeau CR1s in coupe)
harness (have 4pt schroth)
lightweight wheels 17x9 (have SSR Type-F 16.8 lbs/ea on coupe)
RE71R 255/40-17 (need new as last season's are dead)
spacers front (have 15 & 18mm)
fender rolling As an FYI there is rubberized coating in the rear wheel wells. To get a good flat roll that will need to be removed before starting.
fluids - oil, diff, trans, coolant

Thanks! I'll edit this list with your input.

My opinions.

[fizzx]

My opinions.

Thanks! And I agree on the rear bar. I didn't run one on my sedan, just more of noting I have a rear bar if needed :-)

How are folk removing that coating on the rear inner fender iip? My prior sedan was rolled before I got it.

[Crustashio]

Wire wheel. I tried the knife method and it was taking forever, wire wheel made quick work of it. Make sure to spray on some primer + paint before rolling.

There are few simple header options for an OBD2 e36 in ST. You have to keep the SAP as it is part of the emissions system. Turner stopped selling their OBD2 compatible shorty headers.

I would do the bimmerworld 3" exhaust - fitment is really good. If you can find a set of longtubes you'll have to get them mated to the front flange, but their y-pipe will work with stock or shorty headers.

I can't see the need for offset FCABs on 96+ car. I'm already trashing fender liners with centered fcabs/vorshlag plates. The M3 has enough caster.

Control arms AND camber plates in the front are not legal, it has to be one or the other. I don't think camber shims + camber plates are legal either.

And this is just a personal preference, but I don't like most SSKs. Too low and too notchy. I found the z3 lever with the jaffter (or condor) tall delrin knob works really well.

[fizzx]

Wire wheel. I tried the knife method and it was taking forever, wire wheel made quick work of it. Make sure to spray on some primer + paint before rolling.

There are few simple header options for an OBD2 e36 in ST. You have to keep the SAP as it is part of the emissions system. Turner stopped selling their OBD2 compatible shorty headers.

I would do the bimmerworld 3" exhaust - fitment is really good. If you can find a set of longtubes you'll have to get them mated to the front flange, but their y-pipe will work with stock or shorty headers.

Can you still get a hiflow cat within 6" of stock location with the bw setup?

[Crustashio]

My opinion is yes, barely.

IMG_20160319_163457.jpg

You can also just install the cat in the straight pipe they provide if you don't care about noise.

[fizzx]

My opinion is yes, barely.

IMG_20160319_163457.jpg

You can also just install the cat in the straight pipe they provide if you don't care about noise.

Oh man, I bet that is LOUD .. too loud prob for my tastes. Hmm.

[Crustashio]

That's not the whole exhaust, only the front section. There's a rear muffler.

[fizzx]

That's not the whole exhaust, only the front section. There's a rear muffler.

Right, but no resonator and 3" back to the muffler should be pretty loud :-) Did you run a header or just go stock into the y pipe?

- - - Updated - - -

My opinions.

FWIW, AST is still in biz ... found a shop that will rebuild 'em for $150+shipping. So $600 vs new MCS's. I know MCS will be superior, but hard to say for my needs if it's worth the addtional $$$$.

[Crustashio]

Stock manifolds. Bimmerworld says the designed the y-pipe to emulate equal length headers (see weirdo bend in the 4-5-6 section), not sure if it does much.

I know there are race cats that meet the minimum substrate length (3") and will fit behind the resonator in the center section. That's what I plan to do, I picked a vibrant 7530. See post #8 in this thread: http://www.bimmerforums.com/forum/sh...2#post29469022

With both resonator/muffler, the exhaust isn't bad but I don't do long drives except to events. For anything over 2-3 hours I wear earplugs. The weight savings were really good though. I can't remember stock exhaust weight but the entire BW exhaust with y-pipe is 42lb.

[MINIz guy]

Good information here.

For the exhaust, you can probably go custom and pay less than the BW exhaust w/ a cat welded in. My car has stock headers, BW y-pipe, 100-cell cat and 2 mufflers. Minimal drone and very livable since I daily mine all season. If you're 100% about the weight savings, I'd go with the resonator instead of the second muffler, but each muffler was ~8lbs so you're saving ~4lbs with a muffler/resonator combo.

[matthugie]

If someone will rebuild the AST's then you're good, though $150 for a full set rebuild does seem a bit cheap. I agree, if you're not trying to win trophies at national events then MCS/JRZ/etc. is probably overkill.

I would also second the wire wheel for the rear arches, I didn't have one at the beginning of the process and would not recommend a manual undertaking. You could probably listen to the audio book of War and Peace while doing it by hand and might finish the book first.

- - - Updated - - -

Good information here.

For the exhaust, you can probably go custom and pay less than the BW exhaust w/ a cat welded in. My car has stock headers, BW y-pipe, 100-cell cat and 2 mufflers. Minimal drone and very livable since I daily mine all season. If you're 100% about the weight savings, I'd go with the resonator instead of the second muffler, but each muffler was ~8lbs so you're saving ~4lbs with a muffler/resonator combo.

Granted it didn't have a cat, but the full 3" custom exhaust on my S52 E30 with V-band at the headers and generic muffler at the end was $650. I think I could do the same on the e36 with a cat for under $1k without issue, and with the people I know now have better welds.

[fizzx]

If someone will rebuild the AST's then you're good, though $150 for a full set rebuild does seem a bit cheap. I agree, if you're not trying to win trophies at national events then MCS/JRZ/etc. is probably overkill.

Sorry ... $150/ea+shipping ... so $600+ship vs new *whatever*

[MINIz guy]

I thought the AST 4100's were the ones that needed constant rebuilds since they would blow seals quickly? That's something to take into account if you're planning to daily it and put mileage on it.

I should also put in more info about my comment with exhaust. I was $900 all-in for my stainless steel exhaust setup. It's v-banded at the first muffler so I can easily remove it and pop in a straight pipe to lose weight, or I can remove the second muffler and it will dump right before the rear differential. There's a pretty big mark up on the BW kit I bet.

[fizzx]

So sounds like (no pun intended) the y-pipe with stock mani works well enough vs full length headers.

@minizguy got any pics of your setup? I love the idea of easily swapping from a "street" noise level exhaust to "race/autox" level.

Brought home my "new" '98 M3/4/5 last night. She needs a complete suspension overhaul (1 blown strut and 1 shock) along with new clutch and 5th gear lean fix, rear wheel bearing, valve cover gasket ... but, she's rust free ... which is NOT common here in the rust belt. Let the STR build begin! :-)

[klodkrawler05]

Subscribed to see where you go with this

[fizzx]

Currently pondering 245 vs 255 RE71's ...
Comment from a knowledgable facebook buddy:
"Tires: I'm not truly sure you'll gain much/anything with the 255 on a 9" wheel as the 245's are
only giving up .3" of tread width per tire,
but you gain a .4" shorter diameter tire,
and save 1lb of rotating mass per corner and get a sharper steering feedback.
Might be enough to outweigh the width, might not."
245's would certainly mean less fender rolling required. I ordered 245's last spring 'cause at the time the 255's were out of stock everywhere with no immediate relief in sight. Hmmmmm

[MINIz guy]

I'll snap some pictures of it this weekend once I get back to working on it again.

I run a 245 on a 9" wheel. Like you, I went with 245 since 255's were unobtainium, and didn't think there would be a noticeable difference. Do you need the extra top end and slightly extra lateral grip from the 255s, or would you prefer the slightly better acceleration and sharper turn-in from the 245s? I think I'm sticking with 245s again this season.

[jakermac]

What size are the guys that are winning in STX running on the Twins and the E36s? That should provide some indication of what you have to do to extract max performance. And they have less power than you will most likely end up with.

[GG Emerican]

Pics of the SSR type F's? Never seen them on an e36. Are they 5x120? Or do you mean the type C's?

They are my favorite wheels and would kill for a set!

[fizzx]

Pics of the SSR type F's? Never seen them on an e36. Are they 5x120? Or do you mean the type C's?

They are my favorite wheels and would kill for a set!

Yup, they are type F's :-) See are some pics of them on the beaterM3 ...
E36M3 STR build 2017-01-26 19-25-40.png
E36M3 STR build 2017-01-26 19-26-04.png

There are also quite a few on my facebook photos where I've been tagged .. just scroll down a little https://www.facebook.com/jasonpowell...=pb_friends_tl

- - - Updated - - -

What size are the guys that are winning in STX running on the Twins and the E36s? That should provide some indication of what you have to do to extract max performance. And they have less power than you will most likely end up with.

I have no clue. I'd assume all E36's would go 255's. Is that data available somewhere?

- - - Updated - - -

My "new" STR platform ... 98 M3/4/5 ... no mods except for the front lights, suspension is shot, clutch is weak, trans needs the 5th gear detent fixed, but she's rust free and motor seems good for 169k miles. Time for her to go under the knife very soon.

E36M3 STR build 2017-01-26 19-26-33.jpg

[VaTechE36]

I couldn't get any of the pics to load that you posted.

Also, if you're interested, I just pulled off an AA Y pipe that is sitting in my garage if you're interested in going that route. I can send you some pictures when I get back home. Shoot me a PM if you want to chat further.

Regardless, interested to follow your build for STR =)

[fizzx]

I couldn't get any of the pics to load that you posted.

Also, if you're interested, I just pulled off an AA Y pipe that is sitting in my garage if you're interested in going that route. I can send you some pictures when I get back home. Shoot me a PM if you want to chat further.

Regardless, interested to follow your build for STR =)

Hmm, I just tried a diff browser and the pics loaded fine? I'll PM ya about the Y pipe.

[klodkrawler05]

fwiw I couldn't get any of the pictures to load in chrome or IE.


Also I'm curious to see some more feedback on the 255 vs 245, most of the threads I've browsed through seems like peoples tire selection is generally pushed by whichever one is in stock. surely someone must have done some back to back testing on both.

[fizzx]

browser reset and I see the broken links too ... I'll get those fixed. Thanks for the heads up.