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Thread: Convertible Top Cover Shock Replacement

  1. #1
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    Convertible Top Cover Shock Replacement

    Hi. New to this forum. I bought a beautiful black, never winter driven 1997 BMW 318i convertible last June and currently in my garage winter stored. The gas shocks that hold the convertible top tonneau cover are weak and will not hold the cover up so it is a bit of a nuisance when I put the manual top up and down. I now have the shocks and was wondering if anyone here on this forum has any experience removing the old ones and installing new ones. Any tips or advice would be appreciated. Thanks in advance.
    Brian

  2. #2
    Pelican Parts's Avatar
    Pelican Parts is offline Senior Member Supporting Vendor
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    Hi Brian - welcome to the forum! I've attached a DIY tech article from our site that I think you'll find really helpful in troubleshooting and fixing your E36 convertible top. If you have any further questions, feel free to post a Comment just below the article and someone will get back to you. Best of luck!

    BMW Convertible Top Adjustment and Repair


    -Dmitry
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  3. #3
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    Quote Originally Posted by Pelican Parts View Post
    Hi Brian - welcome to the forum! I've attached a DIY tech article from our site that I think you'll find really helpful in troubleshooting and fixing your E36 convertible top. If you have any further questions, feel free to post a Comment just below the article and someone will get back to you. Best of luck!

    BMW Convertible Top Adjustment and Repair


    -Dmitry

    Thanks Dmitry. I will read the attached article.
    Brian

  4. #4
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    Quote Originally Posted by Pelican Parts View Post
    Hi Brian - welcome to the forum! I've attached a DIY tech article from our site that I think you'll find really helpful in troubleshooting and fixing your E36 convertible top. If you have any further questions, feel free to post a Comment just below the article and someone will get back to you. Best of luck!

    BMW Convertible Top Adjustment and Repair


    -Dmitry
    While your link is informative, it has nothing to do with his question. If you want to promote your business try reading the question before trying to pimp your parts.

    bfancy,
    The struts do tend to weaken over time. They can be replaced. It is not an easy task as you have to contort your arm to pop them on and off. Do a search on this forum as there is a good post where the task is explained in detail.

  5. #5
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    Quote Originally Posted by 66 6 View Post
    While your link is informative, it has nothing to do with his question. If you want to promote your business try reading the question before trying to pimp your parts.

    bfancy,
    The struts do tend to weaken over time. They can be replaced. It is not an easy task as you have to contort your arm to pop them on and off. Do a search on this forum as there is a good post where the task is explained in detail.

    Thank-you 66 6. You are correct about the article not being informative for my question. I will do a search as you suggested. The shocks are indeed in a tight space and I don't really want to get at it until I get some info or advice on how to properly approach the task

  6. #6
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    Have a long big screwdriver or any long metal rod and some masking tape ready. The screwdriver is to leverage the ends of the pistons off their attachment points. The tape is wrap your screwdriver to prevent scratching paint. Don't worry, use lots force when removing. You won't damage anything. The bottom end is a ball joint and the top is a pin similar to the hood shocks.

    As others have said, the challenge is putting the new ones in. Remove the bump stops on the tonneau cover hinge. That will minimize the amount of compression on the shock during installation. You can access the bottom end of the shock through the trunk behind the carpet. When I did this job, I attached the bottom first, but proceed with what bests fits your solution.

    You should be able to slide the clip outward from the bottom of the shock to remove tension to make installation easier. After install, slide the clip back into the joint.

    I could not compress the new shock enough for my install, so I cut a small notch into the hinge arm. This gave me an additional 1/4" opening clearance to attach the new shock without the need for compressing it. I also had to prime and paint the notch to prevent rusting. I would save this method as a last resort when all else fails.
    Last edited by myblackcar; 01-19-2017 at 01:52 PM.
    Alpine 318ic FTMFW!

  7. #7
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    Quote Originally Posted by myblackcar View Post
    Have a long big screwdriver or any long metal rod and some masking tape ready. The screwdriver is to leverage the ends of the pistons off their attachment points. The tape is wrap your screwdriver to prevent scratching paint. Don't worry, use lots force when removing. You won't damage anything. The bottom end is a ball joint and the top is a pin similar to the hood shocks.

    As others have said, the challenge is putting the new ones in. Remove the bump stops on the tonneau cover hinge. That will minimize the amount of compression on the shock during installation. You can access the bottom end of the shock through the trunk behind the carpet. When I did this job, I attached the bottom first, but proceed with what bests fits your solution.

    You should be able to slide the clip outward from the bottom of the shock to remove tension to make installation easier. After install, slide the clip back into the joint.

    I could not compress the new shock enough for my install, so I cut a small notch into the hinge arm. This gave me an additional 1/4" opening clearance to attach the new shock without the need for compressing it. I also had to prime and paint the notch to prevent rusting. I would save this method as a last resort when all else fails.

    Thanks Myblackcar.

  8. #8
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    Quote Originally Posted by bfancy View Post
    Thanks Myblackcar.

    Got the job done! Thanks to all who responded and offered helpful information. Having big hands is definitely a disadvantage and i did end up with a few skin nicks. Worth it though.
    Brian

  9. #9
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    Quote Originally Posted by myblackcar View Post
    Have a long big screwdriver or any long metal rod and some masking tape ready. The screwdriver is to leverage the ends of the pistons off their attachment points. The tape is wrap your screwdriver to prevent scratching paint. Don't worry, use lots force when removing. You won't damage anything. The bottom end is a ball joint and the top is a pin similar to the hood shocks.

    As others have said, the challenge is putting the new ones in. Remove the bump stops on the tonneau cover hinge. That will minimize the amount of compression on the shock during installation. You can access the bottom end of the shock through the trunk behind the carpet. When I did this job, I attached the bottom first, but proceed with what bests fits your solution.

    You should be able to slide the clip outward from the bottom of the shock to remove tension to make installation easier. After install, slide the clip back into the joint.

    I could not compress the new shock enough for my install, so I cut a small notch into the hinge arm. This gave me an additional 1/4" opening clearance to attach the new shock without the need for compressing it. I also had to prime and paint the notch to prevent rusting. I would save this method as a last resort when all else fails.
    I agree with most of this but I attached the top end first. That allowed me to see the bottom end. Trying to compress that strut and attach the top when you are working blind is difficult and this job is already difficult because of the tight quarters you're working in. Have patience and take a break if you need to. Start with the passenger side strut. If I recall correctly it's the easier of the 2.

  10. #10
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    Remove the bolts that hold the Tonneau cover. Place the cover aside. Remove the rubber stoppers that prevent hinge from hitting bottom of trunk- they’re a rubber buffer between metal on metal. Set them aside. Once the lid is off, remove the strut. The bottom portion can be dislodged using a flathead screwdriver or an awl. Take a look at your new strut you’ll see where you need to insert it. Once the bottom is off, there’s a metal thin hinge / lever like mechanism that enables dislodging the upper part. Remove the clip from the old hinge and place on new hinge. Pay attention to orientation of clip. Install the top portion first. You play with the Top up/down control to gain maximum exposure to lower portion of strut.

    For the Driver’s side, repeat. One additional step is to dislodge the bar that comes from the side motor to the hinge. Remove the “eye clip” don’t lose it, dislodge the rod, it will give you lots of play to insert the lower portion of strut. Replace rod. Replace clip. Replace rubber stoppers.

    There’s some playing with top up/down mechanism to do this. It’ll make sense as you do it. It’s basically adjusting to give yourself maximum exposure to reach in and place without messing around with compressing the strut.

    Replace lid.

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