I was getting a VANOS code so I decided to do a VANOS rebuild (plus new solenoid).
I'm at the Beisan Systems step of putting the camshaft lock blocks on and cannot get them to sit flush (or even close) against the engine block.
Note: I have an aftermarket flywheel (installed by PO) and cannot lock the flywheel since it doesn't have the indent for the pin.
Pictures showing where I'm stuck:
TDC:
TDC.jpg
Best I can do:
blocks.jpg
The big picture:
madnessjpg.jpg
What could be going on here?
p.s., Probably totally unrelated... but: I had to modify (i.e., hit really hard with a hammer so it is a little thinner) my 24mm wrench to fit on the input camshaft's hex as it was to thick to fit! It fit perfectly on the exhaust side.
Are you starting or finishing? Loosen exhaust sprocket bolts, remove vanos, move intake cam so blocks fit.
When timing, rotate engine into TDC. Don't reverse rotate a little if you went too far since there is some play at TDC. Rotate only in direction of engine rotation.
13:00 minute mark,
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=JPlKrOC718w
The exhaust cam looks flush? If so, timing is correct with respect to crank and cam. It looks like the Vanos was installed incorrectly, forcing an advance. Don't worry about it, and remove the vanos ... when yo ureinstall, do it right, and it should fix the intake cam timing.
Thanks. Excellent video... Wish I was that fast...I started this project 6 months ago! Haha
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Yes. Exhaust cam can be shimmied perfectly flush while still at TDC. I'll move on with the project this week and pay special attention when reinstalling to get things lined up correctly.
On a side note: I bought both the timing chain guides (and both tensioners) after a BFc recommendations but as I'm getting into it or is starting to look like a huge job and I haven't been able to find a decent M52 tutorial on it. Any words of advice?
Replacing the chain guides behind the front cover is a bigger job that I would not do with the head installed unless I had to since it may disturb sealant the last person put on the pan and head gaskets.
Replacing the tensioner is easy though they may not need it. The lower is expensive, the upper cheap.
Thanks. I've a purchased everything. I was getting a really bad deceleration-only rattle so I figure both tensioners should be done. I have almost zero service records so I'm itching to replace just about everything when I get the chance or excuse. I guess I've got some timing chain guides going up for sale soon. Haha.
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