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Thread: Help with e36 immobilizer PLEASE!!!

  1. #1
    Join Date
    Jan 2017
    Location
    Rocklin, CA
    Posts
    10
    My Cars
    1997 BMW 328ic

    Help with e36 immobilizer PLEASE!!!

    My 1997 328ic is absolutely schooling me. After 3 weeks being parked I went to start my car and it started right up. Whew! (At least I thought). Next day tried to start, no go. Dash lights, console lights, radio, heater and everything else fine. I scanned these forums and determined it was an immobilizer issue. Searched for solutions with the following results;
    1. Tried both of my fully functional keys. Result - no fix.
    2. Charged car battery overnight and reinstalled it. Result - started on 1st attempt. Turned ignition off then tried to start again. Result - lights, radio, heater fine but no start. One and done.
    3. Locked and unlocked drivers door then attempted to start. Result - started on 1st attempt. Turned ignition off then tried to start again. Result - lights, radio, heater fine but no start. One and done, v2.
    4. Tested battery, was indeed bad so I replaced it. Result - After installing, started on 1st attempt. Drove around the neighborhood. Turned ignition off then tried to start again. Result - lights, radio, heater fine but no start. One and done, v3.
    5. Yelled at the top of my lungs, frightened my wife, dog and neighbors, beat my head against the wall and threw my wrenches in the pond. Result - slept on the couch, dog won't come near me, neighbors called the police, very noticeable bump on my forehead accompanied by a massive headache and out a $100 set of new wrenches. Car laughs at me!

    So before I go crazier than I already am, can ANYBODY PLEASE OFFER SOME ADVICE AND POSSIBLE SOLUTIONS?

    UPDATE 1/12/17: 1st - I FAILED TO MENTION THAT WE HAVE GOTTEN A LOT OF RAIN OVER THE PAST COUPLE OF WEEKS. Not sure if my car is giving me a break or teasing me. Previously, when having all the one and done starting issues, my car was parked in my driveway that has about a 5% incline. I parked front first in the driving meaning the engine compartment was higher than the rear of the car. After changing the battery and having my v3 one and done experience (see item 4 above), I backed into the driveway leaving the engine compartment lower than the rear of the car. Just for kicks and giggles, I just tried to start my car this morning and boom, started right away on first attempt. Turned the ignition off, sat a second then crossed my fingers and tried again and what do you know, it started again....then again, etc. Do you think my one and done issues had anything to do with one of the modules or controls to the immobilizer getting water in it?
    Last edited by acarmel; 01-12-2017 at 03:54 PM. Reason: Update

  2. #2
    Join Date
    Mar 2008
    Location
    Bangkok, Thailand
    Posts
    356
    My Cars
    E85 Z4
    The control module for the immobiliser is located under the dashboard, behind the glovebox...

    Based on location I wouldn't expect it to get wet or damp unless you have a serious leak (which if you do you would still be wise to resolve). It could be a wiring issue - old wires can become brittle and cause the signal to fail.

    One other thing which you didn't mention, and it may sound silly.... auto cars need to either be in park or neutral to start up... when my car had its auto box I completely forgot about that and was scratching my head for days to figure out why the car wouldn't start. It could possibly be somehow related to the gearshift?

    Anyway, I'd suggest you remove the glovebox and look for signs of water leaks or dampness regardless of whether it continues to work or not

  3. #3
    Join Date
    Jan 2017
    Location
    Rocklin, CA
    Posts
    10
    My Cars
    1997 BMW 328ic
    Thanks BKK. I thought there was some kind of control box / computer on the engine side of the firewall? Could that be the culprit?

  4. #4
    Join Date
    Jun 2009
    Location
    South Carolina
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    31,073
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    2004 330 vert 2004 X5
    Forget removing the glovebox. The only way you're going to get water inside the EWS module is if the car is full of water like a bath tub.

    My my first thought was maybe your immobilized relay is sticking. Open up the DME compartment. You'll see a light green relay. Take it out and take the green cover off. Inspect it for corrosion or other visible damage.

    Just a thought.

  5. #5
    Join Date
    Aug 2010
    Location
    Tallahassee
    Posts
    1,052
    My Cars
    1998 Z3 M Roadster.
    I agree if the control module behind the glove box is wet you have bigger issues.
    Have you checked the hood interlock switch? Remove , clean, test and replace.


    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

  6. #6
    Join Date
    Jun 2009
    Location
    South Carolina
    Posts
    31,073
    My Cars
    2004 330 vert 2004 X5
    Hood switch is only for the alarm system. It does not have anything to do with immobilization.

  7. #7
    Join Date
    Jan 2017
    Location
    Rocklin, CA
    Posts
    10
    My Cars
    1997 BMW 328ic
    Great ideas and thanks a million for all the helpful ideas guys! As of today it remains operational, even through two more heavy downpours. If the issue returns I'll try the suggestion to check the immobilizer relay flyfish suggested. Thanks again all! Next item on the list of repairs is a significant leak allowing water to enter the trunk and soak the trunk mat. I'll post a new thread on that one.

  8. #8
    Join Date
    Jan 2017
    Location
    Rocklin, CA
    Posts
    10
    My Cars
    1997 BMW 328ic
    It appears I found the source of the leaks! 1st, The two drain holes in the compartment that holds the top when down were clogged. Cleaned them, ran a strand of weed trimmer line through the drain tube about 10 ft to clear them just to be sure. Next, cleared a bunch of leaves and gunk from the front drain cowls so it could drain. Next, recognized that when I replaced my rear window last summer I failed to seal the seam to the top which appeared to be the main culprit causing water into the rear of the car. Next, ran a bead of adhesives/sealant around the fabric trim on the new zipper window and the fabric of my top as well as the black plastic trim ring that runs along the window opening. Next, used a garden hose and ran water over the back window for a minute or two to tease for leaks. I noticed the water running off the top and window running into the gap between the trunk lid and body then out from under my tail lights. Checked my trunk and water was leaking into the trunk through the right tail light. Next, removed the rear taillight and noticed a large amount of gunk on the top of the plastic assembly that appeared to be clogging a drainage channel directing the water around and under the housing. Cleaned the crap out of the housing and channels, the rubber seal surrounding the housing and the area the seal seats against. Ran another test and voila...no more leaking.

    Now all that remains is getting my car to not smell like the bottom of a locker room towel hamper from the musk and mildew that had built up while the rear was a bathtub. I'll post another issue with the passenger window and antipinch issues in the appropriate forum. Getting there guys, thanks for your help!

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