Try this, courtesy of Taylor Marshall. http://members.cruzio.com/~glennco/s_headrest_11.htm. It actually works, I just did it a month ago.
Rob E3
+1 on the headrest repair. It's the same in many other BMWs, worked for me on an E34.
As for the continuing rough running troubles, I'm thinking of quick & cheap tests. Did you ever check out the AFM or plug wire resistance? I had a bad coil lead once that caused me a lot of had scratching. It tested OK but there was some internal damage. When I gave it a little wiggle, resistance jumped all over the place. IIRC 3Kohm for the coil wire, 6Kohm for the rest of the plug wires.
If you replace those injectors, and other bits in the fuel path without cleaning out that fuel tank first (not just draining and refilling), it'll be for nothing. Just sayin' ...
Thanks!! I'll give this a shot ASAP.
Yup! Everything checked out. I'll check the plug wires again just to be sure though.
It's been driven about 4-5k since the injectors started giving troubles. Just poured a bottle of seafoam in there just in-case. I'm also replacing the filter Friday or next week. I had opened up the tank and didn't see anything, but about half a tank was in there. Do you think it's necessary at this point for anything else to be done? Suggestions?
Last edited by EddieV; 11-30-2016 at 08:18 PM.
You replaced the AFM but with what, a used unit or was it rebuilt?
Someone here posted about a loose wire at the fuse box which I think went to the fuel pump relay. Open the box, take a peek from below for worn or melted connections.
I re-read and saw you tried another DME with no change.
The end of the fuel road is the rail and injectors. I would make sure your pressure is ok before you put in the new injectors.
There's that small vacuum line that runs underneath the intake manifold, joined to a very small rigid plastic tube that then runs along the brake bomb, very easy to overlook it. Make sure it is intact.
Taylor M had an issue with a failing wire at the AFM connection so move it around during idle to see if anything changes.
I had similar issues with my 635 and my M6...one was a crappy AFM which did not respond to realignment of the arm on the carbon tract, the other was the cap with small microfractures you could see only when magnified. You cap was changed or just inspected?
Pull a plug and see if you are running lean or rich.
You looked in the tank...trust you looked at the in tank pump then, incl the screen to make sure it's ok.
Last edited by RSheiman; 11-30-2016 at 09:01 PM.
Rob E3
Rebuilt. Good ideas. I'll check everything when I can.
Quick thing I figured out and forgot to mention; when I start the car, it smells like fuel (injector o-rings?), and I have to hold WOT to start the car quicker, or else it'll crank for a few more seconds before it fires and slowly creeps up to idle RPMs NB before it steadies between 550/600- 800. So I figured leaky injectors.
Also, at first start of the day, throttle after shifting is jumpy instead of smooth as when warm. And when driving at a steady RPM, it somewhat jumps and jolts as if it's not getting enough gas/air.
WOT isn't much different from 30-40%, but it's not halting at 5k RPMs like it used to. So it's gotten better the more I've used it heavily.
Last edited by EddieV; 12-01-2016 at 01:18 PM.
Hmmm. That is a good clue. Have you checked the cold start injector for a vac leak or a slight fuel line leak? Tricky little beastie to get at. It's in the center of the intake manifold plenum, between the manifold & block, under the throttle body mounting flange. It injects a spray of fuel into the central plenum on cold starts. Mine was sealed with an o-ring that was more or less a memory.
Did a simple eye test, and everything seemed fine. I might have to pull it and replace the o ring and maybe do a homemade injector cleaning?
The cap and rotor were replaced. Thats what that plastic tubing is! Always wondered. Everything looks good there. Before I replaced the plugs a month or two ago, this is what they looked like. Oh, and the AFM wire seems fine. Nothing went awry while wiggling.
https://imgur.com/gallery/RbszR
Btw, what is that connection in the last image? I've plugged it in since, but can't tell.
Forgot to add, starter hasnt really grinded on warm starts since starting from position 2. If it does, it does it for a quarter of a second, not even. If I were to go from 0 to 3, chances are it would grind.
Last edited by EddieV; 12-02-2016 at 01:53 PM.
Another update; just drove it and noticed yesterday and today, it's been difficult to shift. Looked at the driveway and saw fluid. Clutch slave cylinder is bad now I'm guessing. It's approaching 92k miles.
Last edited by EddieV; 12-02-2016 at 04:18 PM.
Clutch slave often dies when there is a sudden drop in outside temp, clutch hits the floor, poor brakes, brake fluid is low. The slave port on the reservoir is a few cm from the bottom so when the slave dies, fluid drops only to the level of the port and you still have some brakes. I have never had to change one in warm weather, tho I wish.
Rob E3
Interesting. Clutch have hit the floor yet, reservoir looks ok, but definitely fluid in the floor and difficult shifting. Ha definitely lucky I have that warm weather right now! I have a clutch slave I needed to use on my e30, but I'll use it on this instead tomorrow or Sunday. It looks pretty straight forward. What size flare nut wrench is needed?
Let me know what you think of the pics I posted above.
Not a bad idea to clean the cold-start valve, but it's pretty difficult to get at. Last time I did it, I pulled the intake and replaced all the gaskets & hoses. The CSV isn't the same as the other injectors, more like a solenoid sprayer jet.
That last image is the sender wire for the low oil pressure light. It's at the farthest point in the oil galleries from the oil pump.
Plugs looked pretty good. I don't recall flare nut size but BMW is quite fond of 13mm.
Rob E3
Any tips on a block drain plug that won't budge? I can't really seem to get any leverage. The breaker bar doesn't have room to move either. Seems impossible.
About to tackle the slave cylinder job, but can't find a moly based grease here as per Bentley. Is there anything else that would work just as well? Maybe any high temp wheel bearing grease?
Last edited by EddieV; 12-08-2016 at 12:32 PM. Reason: Nvm
Since I haven't gotten to a fuel pressure gauge yet, I figured I'd jump the fuel relay to see if it's the pressure not being high enough at cold starts. Same issue.
Something interesting; took off the AFM and got a massive whiff of fuel from the boot, and this was before I started it in the morning. CSV?
Checked the slave. It's slightly leaking, but nothing major. It is pretty damn rusted though. Oddly, I'm missing the tranny cover I had last year...it couldn't have fallen off. Maybe a mechanic forgot it?
Anyway, I'll change the slave when I get back under to try the block drain plug again. It seems pretty seized, but got a u-joint to try from the top instead of below.
Green coolant is in there now, but I've got the Zerex to replace it.
Last edited by EddieV; 12-09-2016 at 05:20 PM.
I did the drain plug long ago so not sure about room but in situations like this, if I can, I'll use my low profile jack and angle my socket or box wrench and use the jack to push against it. I assume PB Blaster has been used for a few days??
Rob E3
That's genius! Mine's not a low profile, but I'll see what I can do. I kept spraying it with PB over the span of several hours, but couldn't get it loose. I'll keep trying the PB. I'll spray it tonight and every night until I have time to get it done. By that point it'll hopefully be loose
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