What'd I do?

[jakermac]

I have built a few exhausts, the vibrant res and muffler are perfect imo.

Zack,

I have this Vibrant on my car right now.

http://vibrantperformance.com/catalo...roducts_id=293

How much quieter would it be with the #1142 Ultra Quiet? As you know, I'll be doing some exhaust work soon, and this would be the perfect time to quiet it down some more. And how does the quality of the Vibrant oval mufflers compare to the Magnaflow ovals? I've had a few Magnaflows on various cars over the years and they all seem to get louder a little too quickly for my liking. The current one was on the car for about 2 years before it became too loud. I recently cut it open and re-packed it with Bristol Core Spec 31 packing. It was great for a short while after the re-packing, but I must not have packed it tight enough because it's loud again.

[rajicase]

Coolant line is is the same place as the last time this kit was on a car (afaik). There's a little more room than the pic shows, but not much. Probably 1.5"-2" clearance around the manifold.

I'll probably end up shortening the drain line so it's a more direct route to the oil pan. It's easy enough to change after its up and running once i have it on a lift. I may have to buy a different fitting....

Any sound clips of your car Raji? I've been looking at the Borla XR1 mufflers. Also thinking about a vibrant quiet resonator. I'm not looking for stock noise levels, just something that's not overly loud and drawing unneeded attention.

I don't have any sound clips, no.

But I have run vibrant and borla mufflers, and the borla xr1 muffler sounds a lot better imo. I'd run a vibrant resonator , I've had good luck with them. Vibrant resonator + borla xr1 muffler is awesome. That's what I ran at first, then switched to the magna flow race muffler in the center in place of the vibrant.

[BlackPearlZ]

I don't have any sound clips, no.

But I have run vibrant and borla mufflers, and the borla xr1 muffler sounds a lot better imo. I'd run a vibrant resonator , I've had good luck with them. Vibrant resonator + borla xr1 muffler is awesome. That's what I ran at first, then switched to the magna flow race muffler in the center in place of the vibrant.

That's what I'm planning. I have the xr1 out back, and think it would be perfect with a resonator.

[mboor]

Once again progress is slow. My back has been really doing a number on me lately. It's not easy crawling around underneath a car on jack stands with back problems. Finally going to see a chiropractor tomorrow.... old people problems haha.

Been sorting out the new OBD2 engine harness and getting ready to stuff that in. Accessories are bolted on, just been fiddling with little stuff really. I got some nice exhaust bends and trinkets from Zack yesterday and started fabing up my down pipe. I had to shave a little more off the trans belhousing fo clearance, now there's just enough room for the 3.5" pipe. This is my first time using V-bands, Ran out of gas for the mig just as i finished the first flange to pipe connection. My back had had enough at that point anyway.

Whats everyone doing with their ICV's? DO i need to plug the port in the manifold and reroute? Delete? I'm a little worried it will pop out under boost.

I'm also debating stepping the exhaust down to 3" after the resonator, just before the muffler so i can run a Vibrant "ultra quiet" muffler. They dont make them in 3.5". I really want to keep it semi quiet for sleeper status. I don' think this would be a major restriction at the end of the exhaust system, what do you guys think?

[rajicase]

Once again progress is slow. My back has been really doing a number on me lately. It's not easy crawling around underneath a car on jack stands with back problems. Finally going to see a chiropractor tomorrow.... old people problems haha.

Been sorting out the new OBD2 engine harness and getting ready to stuff that in. Accessories are bolted on, just been fiddling with little stuff really. I got some nice exhaust bends and trinkets from Zack yesterday and started fabing up my down pipe. I had to shave a little more off the trans belhousing fo clearance, now there's just enough room for the 3.5" pipe. This is my first time using V-bands, Ran out of gas for the mig just as i finished the first flange to pipe connection. My back had had enough at that point anyway.

Whats everyone doing with their ICV's? DO i need to plug the port in the manifold and reroute? Delete? I'm a little worried it will pop out under boost.

I'm also debating stepping the exhaust down to 3" after the resonator, just before the muffler so i can run a Vibrant "ultra quiet" muffler. They dont make them in 3.5". I really want to keep it semi quiet for sleeper status. I don' think this would be a major restriction at the end of the exhaust system, what do you guys think?

Epoxy the icv fitting in the manifold, and use hose clamps on the connections. It'll stay in fine.

I'd keep it 3.5. I ran a vibrant ultra quiet 3" as my center res on my NA set up and it is not quiet. It's a true straight through. I think I have sound clips of that set up.

It sounded great, but it's def not "ultra quiet."

[mboor]

Spend some more time in the garage this weekend. Put up some random left over insulation in the rafters because its cold here in upstate NY. My back loved going up and down the ladder all afternoon. I have all but 2 wires on the obd2 harness labeled and plugged in. I spend some time making a pin removal tool out of a telescoping magnet to re-pin the necessary wires in the X20 and X6031 connectors for my OBD2 conversion. Also got my mig tank filled and worked a bit more on the down pipe.

+

Saturday i ordered resonators and mufflers. Hopefully i'll have the exhaust finished up this weekend, minus the wastegate / downpipe, which i still have to buy. Looks like i'll be adding a clutch stop also. Doesn't look like i'll be boosting for Xmas like i wanted, maybe for New years tho.

[mboor]

Just ordered a Synapse 40mm WG and the pipes/elbows to fab up a dump pipe. I also had to order a "special" spa WG flange, since the tial 38mm flange i bought a while back doesn't fit my spa mani.

The WG opening in my Spa is 33mm... I forgot to enlarge the opening on the manifold before i put it in the car. I'll be running a recirc pipe back into the exhaust, I hope i don't have issues with boost creep.

[cragg56]

Talk to me about your x20 to x6031 plans. Just brining over the speed signal? Curious how you will do it and what pinouts you came up with (would love to cross reference the ones I determined)

Sent from my SM-T707V using Tapatalk

[mboor]

Talk to me about your x20 to x6031 plans. Just brining over the speed signal? Curious how you will do it and what pinouts you came up with (would love to cross reference the ones I determined)

Sent from my SM-T707V using Tapatalk

Speed signal is getting re-pinned, along with the CEL wire. There's two other connections that are getting swapped also, i'm at work and can't for the life of me remember what they are right now. I'll post up some pics and info tonight when i'm at the car and i have all the info in front of me. Hopefully we cross reference our findings and come up with the same answers. Do you plan on wiring in a 16 pin OBD2 port for communication?

[mboor]

Ok heres the plan...

Obd1 X20 chassis harness pin#8 controls the CEL. Im pulling pin#1 (CEL) on the obd2 X6031 connector on the engine harness, and putting it in pin#8 on the X20 obd2 engine harness to retain my CEL functionality. Pin#8 on the x20 obd2 engine harness is for power for the charcoal canister/evap system, which will be non functional.

Pin#14 on the obd1 x20 chassis harness is speedo signal off the diff. This need to mate to pin#9 on the obd2 x20 engine harness. Pin#14 on x20 obd2 engine harness is blank, so swap pin#9 over to blank pin#14.
Obd2 engine harness X6031 pin#7 goes to chassis ground. this grounds the crank sensor iirc. Pin#8 needs a 12v supply with a fusible link, i believe for power to the data link connector.

[mboor]

I didnt make my new years dead line . I Did get close enough to rejuvinate

[mboor]

I hate the bfc app....but yeah, close enough to find that motivation when your closing in on the end of a big project.

Just about done with the exhaust. The waste gate piping is kicking my ass, but i think i have it figured out. I have to find a tip for the muffler, but everything else is done. 1 resonator, a mid muffler and a rear muffler, all vibrant 3.5" straight through and 304 stainless, vband connections, all in the factory location. Ground clearance should be very good, im happy with my first exhaust.

I need to put the radiator in, then mount the intercooler, then the engine is ready for fluids.

I ended up going with an sgc-1 dual boost/afr gauge. Need to mount that too. I want it, im so close i can taste it.

[mboor]

question: Where is everyone running their additional instrumentation wires out of the interior and to the underhood / under car? I have yet to find a good hole to exit the interior, and i dont want to cut a new hole.

[Butters Stoch]

question: Where is everyone running their additional instrumentation wires out of the interior and to the underhood / under car? I have yet to find a good hole to exit the interior, and i dont want to cut a new hole.

Passenger side, pull back the carpet. There is a rubber grommet.

[mboor]

thanks butters, i found it. looks like someone already drilled a hole there for something in the past. There was 2 wires and a cable run through it, i think it was for the add on oem keyless entry. Idk, but it wasnt hooked up to anything, so i removed the wires, enlarged the hole a little and ran the scg-1 O2 harness. The connector on the end is kind of large for what it is and requires a 5/8" - 3/4" hole in the fire wall.

[mboor]

Ok, I think I need a little help and or guidance. Car runs, but I haven't drive it yet because I'm having a few issues I can't seem to get past. Maybe someone here can get me pointed in the right direction.
1- There's a small exhaust leak before the o2 sensor, at one of my v band connections. That's not a big problem, I got that covered.
2-idle is very low, 650 rpm and has a hard time holding an idle. If I feather the gas pedal I can get it to idle most of the time.
3- I'm getting code p1519 camshaft actuator bank a. I've retimed the vanos 4 times. I'm using the tools, and the Bently manual and a few good videos, even though I can do it in my sleep now. Vanos was rebuilt by the po about 30k miles ago.
4- I'm getting code p1145 solenoid valve running loss. My Evap system is no more, and this code just needs to be tuned out.

Im chasing my tail doing the same things over and over, not getting any different results. What'd I do? Could 1 and 2 be related? I've heard some people had issues with Schrick cams and vanos timing, anyone ever run into something like this? Is it possible my vanos needs another rebuild, even though it was problem free before I took the engine apart? Am I just dumb and can't time a vanos? I did it right first try on my other S52 with a different set of tools....

[Mklock]

Not even sure this will help but I use this guide for vanos.
http://www.drvanos.com/index.php/installation

Good luck!

[jakermac]

I added a 1/2 watt resistor to the engine harness (OBD1) on the EVAP plug to fool the DME into thinking the EVAP solenoid was still there. Several years now with no CEL.

[mboor]

I added a 1/2 watt resistor to the engine harness (OBD1) on the EVAP plug to fool the DME into thinking the EVAP solenoid was still there. Several years now with no CEL.

I'll see if that keeps the Evap code away until I can get it tuned out. Thanks for the tip

[mboor]

I think I may have fixed p1519 code. After bashing my brains again the walls for days, and repeatedly retiming the vanos without different results, I found this thread: https://www.bimmerforums.com/forum/s...hat-to-expect&
I'm starting to think I may have one of the "bad" early production Schrick intake cams. Apparently there's a handful of early cams where the trigger wheel was manufactured several degrees off from stock spec. Just for the hell of it, this morning i retarded the intake cam a few degrees off from the cam locking block, and retim d thare vanos. I've run the car enough that the code would have normally come on, several times. No code. I hope I'm not jumping the gun when I say fixed, I'm still a little skeptical but hopeful. Sometimes projects don't cooperate, I got a bad Bosch alternator out of the box and a bad beck and arnley cam sensor out of the box for this project, why not a bad cam to top it all off? The idle is getting better. Still a bit rough, but noticeable better. I think it's finally time for the rubber to meet the road and take this little pig out For a drive.

[jakermac]

I'll see if that keeps the Evap code away until I can get it tuned out. Thanks for the tip

You'll have to google for the correct resistance value. I think it was 1k ohm, but I really don't remember anymore. I started with a 1/4 watt resistor (the "capacity") but that one burned up pretty quick.

[mboor]

For the 3 people still reading this thread, I just put 25 miles on at low boost. With the 7lb spring I'm seeing about 7.5lb-8lbs max boost. It makes awesome noises, destroys the little 235's right through second gear and into third, and goes like a bat out of hell. I might shit my pants when I switch over to high boost.

Im not crazy, my intake cam was mismanufactured. Everything is happy once I retarded it a few degrees. I LOVE the UUC twin disk. Butter smooth and stock feel, just like they advertise. There's a few loose ends I need to wrap up now that I know everything works, and maybe tomorrow I'll fix that little exhaust leak, but I think I'm going to go put a few more miles on it right now

[rajicase]

One week later: damn 18psi slow af.

[mboor]

One week later: damn 18psi slow af.

I just saw 9 psi in 3rd and lost traction. I need something sticky in the rear. I can't keep the smile off my face.

[rajicase]

I just saw 9 psi in 3rd and lost traction. I need something sticky in the rear. I can't keep the smile off my face.

Federal rsrr will be a really good tire for the power you are making.

You also should check your alignment and rear suspension setting cause that will make a huge difference in traction.